IH^ 

THE 

FASHIONABLE  TOUR : 

A  GUIDE  TO  TRAVELLERS 

VISITING  THE 

MIDDLE  AND  NORTHERN  STATES, 

AND  THE 

PROVINCES  OF  CANADA. 


FOURTH  EDITION ENLARGED  AND  IMPROVED. 


Saratoga 

PUBLISHED  BIT  G.  M.  DAVISON  ;    AND  Bl  G.  &  C.  &  H. 
CARVILL,    NEW-YORK. 


Northern  District  of  Neiv-  York.  ss. 

38e  ft  rememteretr,  That  on  the  twenty  first 
day  of  April,  in  the  fifty  fourth  year  of 
the  Independence  of  the  United  States  of 
America,  A.  D.  1830,  G.  M.  Davison,  of 
the  said  district,  has  deposited  in  this  of 
fice  the  title  of  a  book,  the  right  whereof 
he  claims  as  proprietor,  in  the  words  following,  to  wit : 
"  The  Fashionable  Tour  :  a  guide  to  Travellers  visit 
ing  the  Middle  and  Northern  States  and  the  Provinces 
of  Canada.  Fourth  edition — enlarged  and  improved." 
In  conformity  to  the  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  Uni 
ted  States,  entitled  "  An  act  for  the  encouragement  of 
learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts  and 
Books  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies 
during  the  times  therein  mentioned  ;"  and  also  to  the 
act  entitled  'iAn  act  supplementary  to  an  act  entitled 
*  An  act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing 
the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts  and  Books  to  the  authors 
and  proprietors  of  such  copies  during  the  times  therein 
mentioned,'  and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the 
arts  of  designing,  engraving  and  etching  historical  and 
other  prints." 

R.  R.  LANSING, 

Clerk  of  the  Dist.  Court  of  the  U.  States  for  the 
Northern  Dist.  of  New-York. 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Introduction, 17 

From  Savannah  to  Charleston. 

Savannah, 19 

Steam-boat  route.. ..table  of  distances, id 

Land  route.. ..table  of  distances, 20 

Charleston, 21 

Sullivan's  Island, 22 

From  Charleston  to  New-York. 

Route  by  water.... table  of  distances, 23 

From  Charleston  to  Norfolk. 

Table  of  distances, 24 

Santee  river.. ..Georgetown.. ..Wilmington, id 

Newbern.... Washington. ...Plymouth, 25 

Roanoke  river....  Albemarle  Sound, id 

Elizabeth  City.. ..Dismal  Swamp, 26 

Dismal  Swamp  Canal... .Portsmouth, id 

Norfolk, 27 

From  Norfolk  to  Washington. 

Table  of  distances, 28 

From  Norfolk  to  Baltimore. 

Table  of  distances, 28 

Chesapeake  Bay, id 

From  Norfolk  to  Richmond. 

Table  of  distances Williamsburgh,    29 

Jamestown. 30 


vi  VNDEX. 

Richmond, 31 

Manchester, 32 

From  Richmond  to  Monticello. 

Monticello Grave  of  Jefferson, 32 

From  Monticello  to  the  Warm  Springs. 

Warm  Springs.. ...Natural  Bridge, 34 

From  Richmond  to  Washington  City. 

Route  and  table  of  distances, 35 

Fredericksburgh.... Mount  Vernon,. . . . . 36 

Alexandria, 37 

Washington  city, 38 

Georgetown, 41 

Chesapeake  and  Ohio  canal, 43 

From  Washington  to  Baltimore. 

Table  of  distances, 43 

Baltimore, 44 

Baltimore  and  Ohio  Rail  road, 48 

Baltimore  and  Susquehannah  Rail  road, .........  50 

From  Baltimore  to  Philadelphia. 

Stage  route....Wilmington, 52 

Steam-b'.-at  and  Canal  route, 53 

Chesapeake  and  Delaware  canal, 54 

City  of  Delaware Philadelphia, 55 

Internal  improvements  in  Pennsylvania, 61 

Union  canal, id 

Pennsylvania  canal, 63 

Delaware  canal, 65 

Schtiykill  canal Lehigh  canal, 67 

Coal  'Mines  of  Pennsylvania, 68 

From  Philadelphia  to  the  Schvylkitt  Coal  Mines. 

Schuylkill  river.. .Manayunk Plymouth  Locks, . .  72 

Norristown. ...Pottstown...Reading.... Hamburgh,. .  73 

Schuylkill  Water  Gap.. .Mount  Carbon, 74 


INDEX.  Vll 

Route  to  the  Lehigh  Coal  Mines. 

Directions, 77 

Mauch  Chunk Mauch  Chunk  Rail  road, 78 

.From  Mauch  Chunk  to  Easton. 

Lehigh  river, 79 

Lehighton, 80 

Lehigh  Water  Gap Bethlehem, 81 

Easton, 82 

Morris  Canal, 83 

Delaware  Water  Gap Delaware  Wind  Gap,. ...  84 

From  Easton  to  New-Yorky  via  Schooly's  Mountain. 

Table  of  distances, 84 

Schooly's  Mountain Newark,  N.  J 85 

JVom  Philadelphia  to  New-York. 

Various  routes, 85 

Table  of  distances.. ..State  of  New-Jersey, 87 

Burlington....Bristol....Bordentown... Trenton,. ...  88 

Princeton, 89 

New-Brunswick....Perth  Amboy, 90 

Elizabethtown....Staten  Island, id 

New- York, 91 

Excursions  from  Neio-  York. 
Passaic  Falls....Schooly's  Mountain....Long  Branch,  1 03 

Hoboken.  ...Weehawk....  Brooklyn, 104 

Manhattan  Island, 105 

Hurl  Gate, 106 

Discovery  of  the  Hudson, 107 

From  New-York  to  Jllbany. 

Table  of  distances, 110 

Remarks. ...Steam  Boats,  &c Ill 

Passage  of  the  Hudson....  Weehawk  en, 112 

Palisadoes....Fort  Lee... .Fort  Washington 113 

Tappan  Bay.... Tarry  town, 114 

Paulding's  Monument, , 115 

1* 


Haverstraw  Bay....Highlands, 116 

West  Point, US 

Major  Andre, 122 

Pollopel  Island, 127 

New- Windsor.... IN  ewburgh, 128 

Milton. ...Poughkeepsie....  Hyde  Park  Landing,. . .  129 

Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal. ...Catskill,. 130 

Pine  Orchard, 131 

Athens.... Hudson.. ..Coxsackie  Landing, 134 

Albany, 135 

Buell's  Farm, 139 

Shaker  settlement  at  Niskayuna, 141 

From  Albany  to  Saratoga  Springs. 

Table  of  distances, 144 

Mansion  of  Gen.  Van  Rcnsselaer, id 

M'Adamized  Road....U.  States  Arsenal, 145 

Watervliet, 146 

Troy, . . .  147 

Lansingburgh....  Waterford, 148 

Junction  and  Cohoes  route.. ..Cohoes  Falls, 149 

Van  Schaick's  Island, 1 50 

Mechanickville.... Dunning  Street, 151 

Biillston  Spa, 152 

Saratoga  Springs, 157 

From  Saratoga  Springs  to  the  Battle  Ground. 

Saratoga  Lake, 169 

Bernus'  Heights, 170 

Freeman's  Farm, 131 

Gen.  Frazer, 1£2 

Schu)  lervilb, 135 

From  Sckiiylcrdlle  to  La1:*  George. 

Fort  Edward, J86 

Sandy  Hill....Glens'  Falls, 187 

Jessup's  Falls....  Hadley  Falls, 188 

Bloody  Pond, '. 189 

Caldwell....Lake  George, 190 

Fort  William  Henry, 191 


INDEX.  IX 

Passage  of  Lake  George, 193 

Ticonderoga, 196 

EXCURSION  TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

BY    STAGE. 

From  Saratoga  Springs  to  Utica. 

Stages, 1 99 

Table  of  distances.. ..  Stimson's  Farm, 200 

Fonda's  Bush.... Johnstown, id 

Caughnawaga....Fort  Plain,. 201 

Little  Falls, 202 

Petrifactions  at  Osquake  creek.. ..Herkimer, 205 

Utica, 206 

Stages  from  Utica,  distances,  &c 211 

From  Utica  to  Trenton  Falls. 
Route  and  description  of  the  Falls, 210 

Stage  Route  from  Utica  to  Buffalo. 

New-Hartford, 215 

Manchester.. ..Vernon....Oneida  Castle, 216 

Lenox.. ..Quality  IIill....Chitteningo, 217 

Manlius, 218 

Jamesville....Onondaga  Hollow,. 219 

Onondaga  Hill....Marcellus, id 

Skaneateles, 220 

Auburn, , 221 

Cayuga.... Seneca  Falls, 223 

Waterloo....Geneva, 224 

Seneca  Lake, 225 

Canandaigua, 226 

Burning  Springs, 22t 

East  Bloomfield....Lima, 230 

East  Avon. ...Avon  Spring, id 

Caledonia....Le  Roy, 231 

Batavia, 232 

Buffalo, 233 


X  INDEX. 

ERIE  CANAL. 

Description  of, 233 

Canal  Passage, 236 

Table  of  distances, 237 

Canal  Route  from  Schenectady  to  Rochester. 

Schenectady, 239 

Amsterdam....Schoharie  Creek, 240 

Caughnawaga.... Anthony's  Nose, 241 

Canajoharie....Fort  Plain, id 

East  Canada  Creek. ...Mohawk  Castle, id 

Little  Falls....Utica....Whitesborough....Oriskany,  242 

Rome, 243 

Oneida  Creek. . .  Canistota 244 

New  Boston....Chitteningo....Syracuse, id 

Salina, 245 

Oswego  Canal... .Geddes, 247 

Nine  Mile  Creek, id 

Canton... .Jordan. ...Weed's  Basin, id 

Port  Byron. ...Montezuma, 248 

Clyde....Lyons....Newark, 249 

Palmyra.. ..Fullom's  Basin, id 

Great  Embankment....Pittsford, id 

Rochester, 250 

Stage  Routes  from  Rochester  to  Buffalo, 253 

From  Rochester  to  Carthage  Falls. 

Carthage, 254 

Ontario  Steam  Boat, id 

Canal  Route  from  Rochester  to  Buffalo. 

Description, 255 

Ogden...Brockport....Holley, id 

Newport... .Oak  Orchard, id 

Middleport.. .Lockport, 256 

Pendleton....Tonnewanta  Creek, 257 

Niagara  River...  .Buffalo, id 

Western  Lakes, 260 


INDEX.  XI 

From  Buffalo  to  Niagara  Falls. 

Stage  and  Steam-boat  routes, ...»  262 

Black  Rock....Waterloo, 263 

Chippewa  Battle  Ground, 264 

Chippewa  Village, 265 

Bridgewater,  or  Lundy's  Lane, 266 

Burning  Spring.. ..Niagara  Falls, 263 

Welland  Canal, 275 

From  Niagara  Falls  to  Forts  George  and  Niagara. 

Queenston, 277 

Brock's  Monument, 27S 

Fort  George.. ..Newark, 279 

Fort  Niagara....Youngstown, id 

From  Fort  Niagara  to  the  Falls  on  the  American  side. 

Lewiston, 279 

Ridge  Road,  or  Alluvial  way, 280 

Tuscarora  Village,...Devil's  Hole, 281 

Whirlpool.... Sulphur  Spring... .American  Fall,. ...  282 

LAKE  ONTARIO. 
Description  of, 282 

Route  from  Niagara  to  Montreal. 

Directions  and  description, 283 

Table  of  distances, 284 

Charlotte.. ..Great  Sodus  Bay....Oswego, id 

Sacket's  Harbor,. ..Cape  Vincent. ...Morristown,  . .  285 

Ogdensburghr... Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 286 

Gallop  Islands, 287 

St.  Regis.... Lachine.... Montreal, 288 

From  Montreal  to  Quebec.  . 

Steam-boats,  &c 29 1 

William  Henry, 292 

Lake  St.  Peter.  ...Three  Rivers....Richelieu  Rapids,  293 
Sillery  River... Wolfe's  Cove. .. Point  Levi... Quebec,  294 
Plains  of  Abraham, ,  3Q4 


Xll  INDEX. 

Martello  Towers....Falls  of  Montmorenci, 306 

Lorette....Chaudiere  Falls, 309 

Return  to  Montreal, 311 

Route  from  Montreal  to  the  White  Mountains,. . .  id 

From  Montreal  to  Whitehall. 

Table  of  distances.. ..Chambly.... St.  Johns, 312 

Description  of  Lake  Champlain....Isle  aux  Noix,. .   313 

Rouse's  Point....Plattsburgh, 314 

Downie's  Monument, 315 

Port  Kent, 316 

Adgate's  Falls..  ..High  Bridge, 317 

Burlington.. ..Split  Rock....Crown  Point, 318 

Ticonderoga.. ..Mount  Independence, 319 

South  and  East  Bays, id 

Whitehall, 320 

NORTHERN  CANAL. 
Description  of, 320 

Canal  Route  from  Whitehall  to  Albany. 

Table  of  distances....Wood  Creek, 321 

Fort  Anne....Burgoyne's  Road, 322 

Fort  Anne  to  Albany, id 

ROUTES  TO  BOSTON. 
Remarks  relating  to, 322 

From  Saratoga  Springs  to  Boston. 

Table  of  distances...Schuyler-Ville... Union  Village,  323 

Manchester.... Chester....Bellows  Falls, 324 

Walpole, , 325 

Keene....Groton....Concord....Lexington, 326 

Cambridge....Boston, 328 

From  Whitehall  to  Boston. 

Fairhaven....Castleton, 329 

Rutland....Chester  to  Boston, 330 


From  Burlington  to  Boston,  through  Windsor,  Vi. 

Table  of  distances. ...Montpelier, 331 

Gulf  road....Randolph....Woodstock 332 

Windsor..  ..Windsor  to  Boston, id 

From  Burlington  to  Boston,  by  way  of  the  White  Moun 
tains  and  Concord,  N.  H. 

Table  of  distances....Hanover  (see  note,) 333 

White  Mountains, 334 

Conway....Fryeburgh, 341 

.From  Conway  to  Concord. 

Centre  Harbor....Red  Mountain, 342 

Squam  Lake.. ..Concord, id 

From  Concord  to  Boston. 

Pembroke. ...Hooksett....Chester, 343 

Londonderry.... Methuen....Andover, 344 

Lowell.... Medford....Boston, id 

From  Mbany  to  Boston. 

Stages... .table  of  distances... .New-Lebanon, 345 

Pittsfield, 346 

Natural  Bridge.  ...Northampton, 347 

Mount  Holyoke,. 348 

Southampton  Lead  Mine, 349 

Hadley, 351 

Regicide  Judges  Whalley  and  Goffe, 352 

Belchertown....Ware, 353 

Brookfield...  .Leicester, 354 

Worcester.. ..Blackstone  Canal, ; 355 

Boston, 356 

Quincy.... Railway,  363 

Dorchester.. ..Brighton...Watertown... Charlestown,  364 

Ursuline  Convent,  / 365 

Breed's  Hill,  battle  of, 366 

Bunker  Hill  Monument, 369 

Fort  Independence....  Nahant, 370 

Forts  around  Boston  erected  during  the  revolution,  373 


XIV  INDEX* 

From  Boston  to  Portland. 

Table  of  distances....Lynn....Salem, 380 

Newburyport....Portsmouth, 381 

Portland, 382 

From  Portland  to  Quebec. 

Remarks  relative  to  the  route, 383 

Table  of  distances.. ..North  Yarmouth, 384 

Freeport... Brunswick, id 

Bowdointown.... Hallo  well, 385 

Augusta...  Sidney.  ..Waterville, id 

Bloomfield....Norridgework, 386 

Remainder  of  the  route  to  Quebec, id 

From  Portland  to  Eastport. 

Table  of  distances, 386 

Bath....Wiscasset.. .Newcastle, 387 

Waldoborough...  .  Warren.. ..Thomastowr^ id 

Camden....Belfast....Buckstown, 388 

Penobscot...  .Castine, id 

'  Machias.... Eastport... .Robbinstown, 389 

From  Boston  to  New-York. 
Remarks  relating  to  and  directions, 390 

From  Boston  to  Providence. 

Remarks  and  directions, 390 

Table  of  distances.. ..Roxbury.... Dorchester, 391 

Dedham.*..Pawtucket, id 

Providence, 392 

From  Providence  to  Newport. 

Bristol....Newport, 394 

Return  to  Providence, 396 

Fort  Green.... Mount  Hope.... King  Philip, 397 

From  Providence  to  New-London. 

Remarks, 400 

Centreville....Stonington, 401 


INDEX.  XV 

New-London, 402 

Steam-boat  and  stages  from  New-London, 404 

From  New-London  to  Norwich. 

The  Thames  river, 404 

Mohegan.... Trading  Cove.... Norwich, 405 

From  Norwich  to  Hartford. 

Table  of  distances.. ..East  Hartford... .Hartford, ...  407 
Steam-boats  and  stages  from  Hartford, 410 

From  Hartford  to  New-Haven. 

Table  of  distances.. ..Wethersfield, 411 

Rocky    Hili....Middletown, 412 

Natural  Ice  Houses, 413 

Haddam....Saybrook,    (note,) •      id 

New-Haven, 415 

West  and  East  Rocks... .Farmington  Canal, 418 

From  New-Haven  to  New-York. 
Steam  Boats,  Stages,  and  sketch  of  the  route,. . . .  419 

From  New-Haven  to  Litchjleld. 

Beacon  Mountain, 420 

Watertown....Litchfield, 421 

Mount  Torn.... Great  Pond.... Chalybeate  Spring,.,      id 
Mount  Prospect, id 

From  Litcbfield  to  Albany, 
Stages  and  intervening  places, « 422 

From  Litchfield  to  Hartford. 
Harwinton....Burlington....Farmington, 422 

Route  up  the  Valley  of  the  Connecticut  River. 

Windsor.... Enfield  Canal, 423 

Suffield....  West  Springfield, 424 

Springfield,    425 


South  Hadlcy  Falls, 426 

Northampton....Hadley....Hatfield, 427 

Muddy  Brook, id 

Deerfield, 429 

Greenfield, 430 

Turner's   Falls, 431 

Vernon....Guilford.,..Brattleboro'.... Westminster,. .  432 

Walpole....Bellows  Falls....Charlestown,  N.  H 433 

Springfield.. ..Weathersfield,  Vt Windsor, 434 

Hartland.... Hartford,  Vt.... Hanover, id 


INTRODUCTION. 


THE  oppressive  heat  of  summer  in  the  southern  sec 
tions  of  the  United  States,  and  the  consequent  expo 
sure  to  illness,  have  long  induced  the  wealthy  part  of 
the  population  to  seek,  at  that  season  of  the  year,  the 
more  salubrious  climate  of  the  north.  But  the  recent 
gigantic  internal  improvements  in  the  northern  and  mid 
dle  states,  and  the  developement  of  new  and  highly 
interesting  natural  scenery,  together  with  the  increas 
ed  facilities  for  travelling,  have  greatly  augmented 
the  number  of  tourists  within  a  short  period.  The 
rail-roads,  canals,  coal  mines,  the  Springs,  the  Falls, 
the  Lakes,  the  fortifications  of  Quebec,  the  sublime 
mountain  scenery  in  New- York  and  New-England, 
with  the  various  attractions  presented  in  the  "large 
commercial  cities,  cannot  fail  of  insuring  to  a  traveller 
a  rich  compensation  for  the  toils  incident  to  a  journey. 

This  work  is  designed  as  a  pocket  manual  and  guide 
to  travellers  visiting  these  places.  Our  limits  forbid 
that  we  should  indulge  in  elaborate  descriptions  or  mi 
nute  geographical  and  statistical  details.  We  have 
therefore  confined  ourselves  to  subjects  of  more  imme 
diate  interest  to  the  tourist ;  directing  him  in  his  course, 
and  pointing  out,  as  he  passes,  objects  which  most  de 
serve  his  notice  and  regard. 

The  Tour,  it  will  be  perceived,  commences  at  Savan 
nah,  in  Georgia,  though  a  rapid  glance  of  the  country 
merely  is  taken  until  reaching  Washington  City.  The 
travelling-  from  south  to  north  being  more  generally  by 
water  than  otherwise,  a  minute  description  of  the  coun 
try  between  Savannah  and  Washington  would  be  unin 
teresting  and  unimportant  to  a  great  proportion  of  the 
readers  of  these  pages.  We  therelore  briefly  notice 
some  of  the  prominent  cities  and  towns,  and  pass  on  to 
those  sections  embraced  within  what  has  been  usually 
denominated  the  FASHIONABLE  or  NORTHERN  TOUR. 


PLATES 

ACCOMPANYING  THIS  WORK. 

1 .  The  village  of  Saratoga  Springs.— The  view  is  taken 
when  entering  the  village  from  the  south,  with  the  Con 
gress  spring  on  the  right.     The  first  house  on  the  right 
is  Congress  Hall ;  opposite  to  which  is  Union  Hall,  and 
farther  north,  on  the  left,  the  U.  S.  Hotel.     The  Pavil 
ion  is  still  farther  north,  on  the  right,  though  not  seen 
in  the  engraving. 

2.  The  place  of  Bur goyne's  surrender. — It  is  in  the  vil 
lage  of  Schuyler-Vilie,  twelve  miles  east  of  Saratoga 
Springs. 

3.  Hadley  Falls. — These  are  19  miles  north  of  Sarato 
ga  Springs  on  the  Hudson  river.     The  plate  represents 
the  bridge  extending  over  the  rapids,  and  also  the  sur 
rounding  scenery. 

4.  Lake  George. — The  view  is  from  the  head  of  the 
lake,  near  the  ruins  of  Fort  William  Henry,  with  the 
village  of  Caldwell  on  the  left. 

5.  Trenton  Falls. — The  view  is  taken  below  one  of 
the  principal  falls. 

6.  Niagara  Falls. — The  view  is  taken  from  Goat  Isl 
and,  and  exhibits  the  entire  curve  of  the  British  or  horse 
shoe  fall,  with  Forsyth's  hotel  and  other  houses  on  the 
heights  of  the  Canada  shore.     The  drawing  was  made 
by  Mr.  BENNETT,  the   author  of  several  very  elegant 
views  of  the  Falls,  published  by  Mr.  H.  McGarey,  N.  Y. 

7.  Quebec. — From  an  original  drawing  of  EDWARD 
KNIGHT,  Esq.     The  view  is  taken  from  near  the  fortifi 
cations  on  the  heights  at  Point  Levi.  In  the  foreground 
is  a  small  chapel  built  by  the  Duke  of  Richmond  ;  on- 
the  left  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  and  on  the  rigj^t  the  St. 
Charles.    On  the  heights  at  the  left  is  the  signal  station 
and  fortifications  on  Cape  Diamond.  In  the  centre  of  the 
heights,  and  immediately  on  the  right  of  the  forest  trees 
in  the  foreground,  is  seen  the  Castle  of  St.  Lewis,  with 
the  steeple^of  the  Episcopal  church  in  the  rear.     The 
next  steeple  on  the  right  is  the  Roman  catholic  cathe 
dral  ;  in  front  of  which,  near  the  water,  is  the  lower 
town. 

8.  State  Housfy  Boston,  with  the  common  in  front. 


THE 


FASHIONABLE  TOUR. 


SAVANNAH,  the  principal  city  in  the  state  of  Georgia, 
is  located  on  the  south-west  bank  of  the  Savannah  riv 
er,  about  17  miles  from  the  bar  at  its  mouth.  The  city 
is  built  on  elevated  ground,  and  exhibits  a  beautiful 
appearance  from  the  water ;  its  tall  spires  and  other 
public  buildings,  with  the  groves  of  trees  planted  along 
its  streets,  giving  it  an  air  of  peculiar  fascination.  The 
streets  are  wide  and  regularly  laid  out,  and  the  build 
ings,  together  with  the  public  squares,  exhibit  much 
taste  and  elegance.  Of  the  public  buildings,  the  city 
contains  a  court  house,  jail,  hospital,  theatre,  exchange, 
a  public  library,  3  banks,  and  10  churches.  Savannah 
is  by  far  the  most  important  commercial  town  in  Geor 
gia,  and  is  the  great  mart  of  the  cotton  planters  for  an 
extensive  and  well  settled  region  of  country.  Steam 
boats  ply  regularly  between  Savannah  and  Charleston, 
distance  110  miles,  as  follows : 

Miles.  Miles. 


Tybee  Sound, 12 

Port  Republican, 25 

Beaufort, 10 

South  Edisto, IS 


North  Edisto  Sound,   10 

Light  House, 25 

Charleston  Bar,. ....     3 
Charleston,... 7 


20  FROM  SAVANNAH  TO  CHARLESTON. 

By  land,  the  distance  between  the  two  cities  is  118 
miles,  as  follows : 

Miles.  Miles. 


From  Savannah  to 

Beck's  Ferry,  on 

the  Savannah  r. , . .  23 

Fitch's,  Echan  road,.  19 

Coosauhatchie, 4 

Pocotaligo, 6 

Saltketcher  Church,.  7 


Thompson's  Tavern,  9 
Pompon  P.  Office,...  11 
Jackson  Borough, ...  3 

Hick's  Tavern, 10 

Green's  Tavern, 10 

Ashley  River, 8 

Charleston, 6 


On  this  route,  the  tourist  crosses  the  Savannah  river, 
which  is  navigable  for  steam  boats  to  Augusta,  105 
miles  above  Savannah,  having  ita  rise  150  miles  north 
west  of  the  former  place  ; 

The  Coosauhatchie  river,  which  rises  47  miles  north 
west  of  the  village  of  that  name,  and  falls  into  the  Coo- 
saw  river,  6  miles  south-east ; 

The  Cambahee  river,  which  rises  75  miles  north-west 
of  Saltketcher,  and  falls  into  St.  Helena  Sound,  18 
miles  south-east  from  that  place ; 

The  Edisto  river,  which  rises  90  miles  north-west  of 
Jacksonboro',  and  falls  into  the  Atlantic  ocean  20  miles 
south-east;  and 

The  Jlshley  river,  which  rises  about  40  miles  north 
west  of  Charleston. 

This  route  is  interspersed  with  rice  and  cotton  plan 
tations,  and  several  handsome  country  seats  of  the  op 
ulent  owners  of  the  soil.  In  the  spring,  the  whole  face 
of  the  country  assumes  a  richness  of  verdure  highly  pic 
turesque  and  romantic  ;  which,  however,  becomes  dried 
and  withered  during  the  burning  heat  of  a  summer's 
sun. 


CHARLESTON.  21 

CHARLESTON, 

The  metropolis  of  South  Carolina,  is  alike  distin 
guished  for  the  opulence  and  hospitality  of  its  inhabi 
tants.  On  entering  the  city  from  the  bay,  an  interest 
ing  prospect  is  presented.  The  glittering  spires  of  its 
public  edifices  are  well  calculated  to  give  animation  to 
the  scene.  Some  of  its  streets  are  extremely  beautiful, 
and  many  of  the  houses  are  truly  elegant.  Orange 
trees,  in  the  early  part  of  the  season,  laden  with  fruit, 
and  peach  trees  clothed  with  blossoms,  meet  the  eye  of 
the  traveller,  and  united  with  the  climate  of  the  coun 
try  at  that  time,  render  Charleston  one  of  the  most  at 
tractive  cities  in  the  union.  The  society  is  refined,  in 
telligent,  frank  and  affable. 

The  city  was  founded  and  made  the  seat  of  govern 
ment  of  the  state  in  1680.  It  stands  on  a  dead  level 
with  the  sea,  two  noble  rivers,  the  Ashley  and  the 
Cooper,  enclosing  it  on  a  wide  peninsula  called  the 
Neck.  Most  of  the  houses  contain  a  piazza,  extending 
from  the  ground  to  the  top,  giving  to  the  rooms  in  each 
story  a  shady  open  walk.  Except  in  the  commercial 
parts  of  the  town,  the  houses,  which  are  mostly  paint 
ed  white,  are  generally  surrounded  with  gardens,  trees 
and  shrubbery,  giving  to  them  a  peculiarly  romantic 
and  rich  appearance. 

The  most  celebrated  edifices  of  this  city,  are  the  OR 
PHAN  ASYLUM  and  the  CIRCULAR  CHURCH.  The  former 
is  one  of  the  best  institutions  of  the  kind  in  the  United 
States.  It  is  highly  honorable  to  the  characteristic  hu 
manity  and  benevolence  of  the  place,  and  is  a  happy  il 
lustration  of  the  tone  of  public  feeling. 


22  SULLIVAN'S  ISLAND. 

SULLIVAN'S  ISLAND,  which  lays  at  the  distance  of  7 
miles  from  the  city,  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  is  a 
spot  consecrated  as  the  theatre  of  important  events 
during  the  revolution.  On  this  island  is  FORT  MOUL- 
TRIE,  rendered  glorious  by  the  unyielding  desperation 
with  which  it  sustained  the  attack  of  the  British  fleet 
in  the  war  of  our  independence.  The  fleet  consisted  of 
about  fifty  sail ;  and  on  the  first  annunciation  of  its  ap 
proach,  lay  within  six  leagues  of  the  island.  It  was  a 
time  of  awful  and  anxious  suspense  to  the  garrison  in 
the  fort,  and  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  city.  The  pub 
lic  mind  had  become  deeply  impressed  with  ideas  of  En 
glish  valor  ;  and  diffident  of  its  own  power,  looked  with 
painful  anxiety  towards  the  issue  of  the  coming  contest. 

About  this  period  a  proclamation  reached  the  shore, 
under  the  sanction  of  a  flag,  in  which  the  British  com 
mander,  Sir  Henry  Clinton,  held  out  the  promise  of 
pardon  to  all  who  would  resign  their  arms  and  co-ope 
rate  in  the  re-establishment  of  loyalty.  But  the  royal 
proposition  met  with  the  rejection  which  it  deserved. 
The  militia  of  the  adjacent  country  crowded  the  streets 
of  Charleston  ;  the  citizens  threw  down  their  imple 
ments  of  industry,  and  grasped  their  arms  in  defence 
of  their  native  city.  On  the  28th  of  June,  1776,  Fort 
Moultrie  was  attacked  by  about  ten  ships,  frigates  and 
sloops,  and  was  defended  in  a  manner  that  would  have 
honored  the  heroic  veterans  of  Greece  or  Rome. 

During  this  engagement,  the  inhabitants  stood  at 
their  respective  posts,  prepared  to  meet  the  advancing 
foe.  They  had  determined  to  grapple  with  the  enemy 
as  he  landed,  and  surrender  their  liberty  only  with  their 
lives.  But  so  manfully  did  the  garrison  withstand  the 


FROM  CHARLESTON  TO  NORFOLK.       23 

conflict,  that  the  fleet  was  compelled  to  withdraw,  leav 
ing  the  inhabitants  in  the  unmolested  enjoyment  of 
their  rights. 

The  influence  of  this  expedition  was  most  auspicious 
to  the  cause  of  American  liberty.  It  strengthened  the 
trembling  hopes  and  dispersed  the  fears  of  the  inhabi 
tants.  They  had  seen  the  result  of  this  attempt,  and 
now  felt  the  triumphant  assurance  that  the  sacred 
cause  in  which  they  had  enlisted  would  eventually  suc 
ceed. 

The  communication  between  Charleston  and  New- 
York  is  rendered  frequent  by  convenient  and  com 
modious  packets  that  ply  from  one  place  to  the  other. 
A  journey  by  land,  until  reaching  Norfolk,  is  tedious 
and  uninteresting  ;  the  public  inns,  except  in  the  large 
towns,  are  generally  poor,  and  a  voyage  by  water  is  the 
uniform  choice  of  the  fashionable  and  genteel  portion 
of  the  community. 

The  distance  by  water  from  Charleston  to  New- 
York  is  670  miles,  and  the  intermediate  distances  are 
as  follows : 


Miles. 

Off  Cape  Fear, 120 

Cape  Look  Out,  75 
Cape  Hatteras,.  78 
Capes  of  Virginia,  140 
Cape  May, 120 


Miles. 
Off  Barnegat  Inlet, . .  70 

The  Bar, 45 

Sandy  Hook, 3 

The  Narrows, 11 

New- York, 8 


FROM  CHARLESTON  TO  NORFOLK, 

by  the  coast, 

Is  419  miles,  and  the  intermediate  distances  are  as 
follows  : 

B2 


24 


FROM  CHARLESTON  TO  NORFOLK. 


Miles. 
By  land. 

Greenwich, 4 

Wapetan  Church,...   15 

Tweeden  Cottons, ...   17 

Santee  R.,  S.  Branch,  10 

N.  Branch,    2 

Georgetown, 14 

On  the  Sands, 20 

Varennes,  N.  C 13 

Smithville, 26 

Brunswick,.. 12 

Wilmington, 18 

Hermitage, 6 

S.  Washington, 24 

Rhode's,." 24 


Miles. 

Trenton, 11 

Newbern, 20 

Washington, 35 

Plymouth, 35 

Mouth  of  Roanoke  R.    8 

By  steam  boat. 
Wade's  Point,  Albe- 
marle  Sound, ....  45 

Elizabeth  City, 17 

By  lar^d. 

Pasquotank  River, . .   12 
N.  Carolina  state  line,  10 

Portsmouth, 20 

Norfolk, 1 


The  Santee,  passed  on  this  route,  is  the  principal  riv 
er  in  South  Carolina.  It  is  formed  by  a  union  of  the 
Congaree  and  Wateree  about  25  miles  south  east  of 
Columbia,  and  falls  into  the  ocean  by  two  mouths 
about  12  miles  south  east  from  where  it  is  crossed.  A 
canal,  22  miles  long,  connects  the  Santee  with  Cooper 
river,  through  which  large  quantities  of  produce  are 
annually  conveyed  to  Charleston. 

GEORGETOWN  the  capitol  of  the  district  of  that  name, 
is  located  on  \\  inyaw  bay,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Pe- 
dee  river,  and  13  miles  from  the  ocean.  It  contains  a 
population  of  between  2  and  3000  inhabitants,  and  is  a 
place  of  very  considerable  trade. 

WILMINGTON,  N.  C.  is  the  capitol  of  New-Hanover 
county.  It  is  situate  on  the  north  east  side  of  Cape 
Fear  river,  just  below  a  union  of  its  branches,  to  which 
place  the  river  is  navigable  for  vessels.  The  town  con- 


FROM  CHARLESTON  TO  NORFOLK.       25 

tains  a  court  house,  jail,  academy,  2  banks,  2  churches, 
and  between  2  and  3000  inhabitants.  It  is  the  great 
est  shipping  port  in  the  state. 

NEWBERN  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Neuse  riv 
er,  30  miles  from  Pamlico  Sound.  It  is  the  largest 
town  in  North  Carolina,  containing  a  population  of 
nearly  4000  inhabitants.  There  are  in  this  place  a 
court  house,  jail,  theatre,  2  banks  and  3  churches. 

WASHINGTON  is  located  on  the  north  side  of  thePam- 
lico-  river,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  1200  in 
habitants. 

PLYMOUTH,  the  capital  of  Washington  county,  is  sit 
uate  on  the  south  side  of  the  Roanoke  river,  and  5 
miles  from  Albemarle  Sound. 

The  Roanoke  river  rises  in  the  state  of  Virginia,  pur 
suing  a  crooked  course  to  Albemarle  Sound,  into  which 
it  empties  by  several  channels,  230  miles  from  its 
source.  It  is  navigable  for  about  30  miles  for  vessels 
of  considerable  burthen,  and  for  boats,  70  miles.  The 
banks  are  fertile  and  well  settled. 

Jllbemarle  Sound  is  in  the  north  east  part  of  North 
Carolina,  on  the  coast.  It  extends  from  east  to  west 
62  miles,  and  is  from  4  to  15  miles  wide.  It  is  con 
nected  with  Pamlico  Sound  by  several  narrow  inlets, 
and  with  the  Chesapeake  Bay  by  a  canal  through  the 
Dismal  Swamp. 

A  steam  boat  is  taken  at  the  mouth  of  the  Roanoke 
across  the  Albemarle  Sound  to 


$6        FROM  CHARLESTON  TO  NORFOLK. 

ELIZABETH  CITY,  the  capital  of  Pasquotank  county, 
N.  C.  The  town  is  located  on  the  bank  of  the  Pas 
quotank  river,  which  has  its  source  in  the  Dismal 
Swamp.  It  contains  a  court  house,  jail  and  4  church 
es.  From  Elizabeth  City  the  road  to  Norfolk  lies  on 
the  bank  of  the  canal,  23  miles  long,  cut  through  the 

Dismal  Swamp.  This  swamp  is  a  tract  of  marshy 
land,  generally  covered  with  pine,  juniper  and  cypress 
trees.  It  is  30  miles  long  from  north  to  south,  and  10 
broad.  In  the  centre  is  Drummond's  Pond,  1 5  miles  in 
circumference, 

The  Canal,  which  has  been  completed  but  a  short 
time,  already  proves  of  immense  advantage  to  the  east 
ern  section  of  North-Carolina.  Formerly  their  coast 
ing  trade  was  through  the  Ockracock  inlet,  by  the  tedi 
ous,  hazardous  and  expensive  sea  route  ;  but  the  canal 
proves  an  easy,  safe  and  cheap  means  of  conveyance, 
and  affords  more  extensive  markets.  Near  the  centre 
of  its  extreme  points  is  the  junction  of  what  is  called  the 
North  West  Canal,  which  is  six  miles  long,  and  con 
nects  North  West  River  (which  empties  into  Currituck 
Sound  in  North  Carolina)  with  the  main  canal,  open 
ing  an  avenue  to  market  for  the  vast  stores  of  timber  in 
that  section  suitable  for  naval  purposes,  besides  the  va 
rious  other  products  of  the  country.  On  the  main  ca 
nal,  the  basin  at  Deep  Creek  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
water,  half  a  mile  long-,  and  15  feet  above  tide  water. 
The  lockage  is  40  feet ;  and  the  locks,  which  are  stone, 
are  of  the  best  workmanship. 

PORTSMOUTH  is  pleasantly  located  on  the  south  west 
side  of  Elizabeth  river,  opposite  Norfolk.  It  contains  a 


NORFOLK.  27 

court-house,  jail  and  4  churches,  and  between  2  and 
3000  inhabitants. 

NORFOLK,  the  commercial  capital  of  Virginia,  is  situ 
ated  on  the  east  side  of  Elizabeth  river,  immediately 
below  the  junction  of  its  two  main  branches,  and  eight 
miles  above  Hampton  roads.  The  town  lies  low,  and 
is  in  some  places  marshy,  though  the  principal  streets 
are  well  paved.  Among  the  public  buildings  are  a  the 
atre,  3  banks,  an  academy,  marine  hospital,  atheneum, 
and  6  churches.  The  harbor,  which  is  capacious  and 
safe,  is  defended  by  several  forts.  One  is  on  Craney 
island,  near  the  mouth  of  Elizabeth  river.  There  are 
also  fortifications  at  Hampton  roads ;  the  principal  of 
which,  Fort  Calhoun,  is  not  yet  completed. 

The  Navy  Yard  at  Gosport,  on  the  bank  of  the  Eliza 
beth  river,  nearly  opposite  Norfolk,  is  deserving  the  at 
tention  of  strangers.  A  superb  dock  is  now  in  progress 
at  this  place,  similar  to  that  forming  at  Charlestown, 
near  Boston.  The  length  of  the  bottom,  from  the  inner 
or  foremost  block,  to  that  \vhich  is  nearest  the  gates,  IB 
to  be  206  feet,  besides  50  feet  of  spare  room — sufficient 
to  hold  a  small  vessel  if  requisite.  The  width  of  the 
dock,  at  the  top,  is  to  be  86  feet.  As  the  tide  rises  and 
falls  but  3  or  4  feet,  the  water  is  to  be  pumped  out,  when 
necessary,  by  steam  engines. 

From  Norfolk  to  Washington  City  or  Baltimore,  the 
routes  are  usually  performed  by  steam-boats.  The  in 
termediate  distances  are  as  follows : 


58  CHESAPEAKE    BAY. 

FROM  NORFOLK  TO  WASHINGTON— 195  miles.* 


Miles. 

Mouth  of  Elizabeth 
river, 9 

Mouth  of  James  river,    6 
Mouth  of  York  river, 

Old  Point  Comfort,  20 
New  Point  Comfort, . .  10 
Rappahannock  river,  .  15 


FROM  NORFOLK  TO 

Miles. 

To  the  mouth  of  the 
Rappahannock,  as 
in  the  preceding  ta 
ble, 60 

Smith's  Point 25 

Outlet  of  Potomac,. . .    10 
Outlet  of  Patuxent 
river, 18 


Miles. 
Off  Outlet  St.  Mary's 

river, 42 

Off  Port  Tobacco....   38 
Mouth  of  Potomac  riv 
er, 15 

Mount  Vernon 25 

Alexandria, 9 

Washington, 6 

BALTIMORE— 191  miles. 
Miles. 

Cone  Point, 5 

Sharp's  Island, 15 

Three  Sisters, 16 

Annapolis, 10 

Sandy  Point, 6 

Mouth  of  the  Pataps- 

co  river, 11 

Baltimore,! 15 


The  CHESAPEAKE  BAY,  the  principal  water  communi 
cation  on  the  foregoing  routes,  stretches  in  a  direction 
nearly  north  from  the  mouth  of  James  river,  or  Lynha- 
ven  Bay,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Susquehannah  river,  near 
the  north  line  of  Maryland.  It  is  180  miles  long,  and  va 
ries  from  10  to  25  miles  in  breadth,  dividing  the  states 
of  Virginia  and  Maryland  into  two  parts,  called  the 
eastern  and  western  shores.  It  has  numerous  com- 


*  The  route  is  down  the  Elizabeth  river  till  it  enters 
the  Chesapeake  Bay — thence  up  the  bay  to  the  mouth 
of  of  the  Potomac,  which  is  entered,  the  boat  proceed 
ing  up  the  river,  and  passing  Mount  Vernon  and  Alex 
andria,  noticed  at  pages  36,  37. 

f  See  page  44. 


FROM  NORFOLK  TO  RICHMOND.        29 

modious  harbors,  and  affords  a  safe  navigation.  Among 
the  waters  which  flow  into  it,  (commencing  north)  are 
.  the  Susquehannah,  Potomac,  Rappahannock,  York 
and  James  Rivers.  It  has  been  estimated  that  the 
Chesapeake  Bay,  including  its  minor  bays  and  inlets, 
contains  an  aggregate  of  3600  square  miles. 

FROM  NORFOLK  TO  RICHMOND. 

The  usual  route  is  by  water  up  the  James  river; 
on  which  steam  boats  are  constantly  plying  between 
the  two  places.  We,  however,  give  the  routes  by  land 
and  water,  with  the  intermediate  distances  : 


By  water — 122  miles. 

Miles. 
Mouth  of  Elizabeth  r.    9 

Day's  Point, 10 

Hog  Island, 16 

Swan's  Point, 9 

Chickahomany  r.  . , .     4 

Fort  Powhatan, 21 

Eppe's  Island, 17 

Chesterfield, 23 

Richmond, 13 


By  land — 110  miles. 

Miles, 

Mouth  of  Elizabeth  r.    9 
Cross  Hampton  Roads 

to  Hampton, ...     8 
Half-way   House,...  11 

York, 10 

Williamsburgh, 12 

Chiswell, 14 

Cumberland, 16 

Chickahomany  river,    16 
Richmond. 14 


WILLIAMSBURGH,  50  miles  from  Norfolk,  is  situated 
between  York  and  James  rivers,  and  was  formerly  the 
metropolis  of  the  state.  Its  streets  are  regularly  laid 
out,  and  many  of  the  buildings  are  handsome.  Wil 
liam  and  Mary's  College,  located  in  this  place,  was 
founded  in  1691,  and  was  liberally  endowed  at  that 
time  by  the  reigning  king  and  queen  of  England.  It 
has  a  library  of  between  3  and  4000  volumes,  and  a 
valuable  philosophical  apparatus. 


30  JAMESTOWN. 

JAMESTOWN,  between  60  and  60  miles  below  Rich 
mond,  on  the  north  side  of  James  river,  was  founded 
in  1608,  and  was  the  first  English  settlement  in  the 
United  States.  The  scite  is  a  very  beautiful  one,  and 
the  settlement  itself  must  have  been  but  a  few  steps 
from  the  river.  On  each  side  there  is  a  delightful  and 
variegated  succession  of  woodlands,  meadows,  pas 
tures,  and  green  fields :  in  front,  appears  the  broad 
expanse  of  James  river,  with  its  multitude  of  white, 
gliding  sails.  The  opposite  hills  are  picturesque: 
some  are  entirely  covered  with  woods ;  others,  partly 
cleared,  presenting,  in  the  proper  season,  patches  of 
white,  wavy  corn.  To  increase  the  richness  of  this 
scenery,  here  and  there  are  distinguished  the  old  and 
elegant  mansions  of  the  Virginia  planters,  like  points 
of  beauty  in  a  fine  picture. 

No  vestige  of  Jamestown  is  now  to  be  seen,  except 
the  ruins  of  a  church  steeple,  about  30  feet  high,  and 
fringed  to  its  summit  with  running  ivy.  Near  by  is  a 
burying  ground  with  its  venerable  tombstones,  and 
spotted  with  dark  green  shrubbery  and  melancholy 
flowers.  It  looks  like  a  lonely,  unfrequented  place, 
and  there  is  something  deeply  interesting  in  contem 
plating  these  vestiges  of  an  age  gone  by. 

In  this  scene  of  silence  and  of  solitude,  the  rude  fore 
fathers  of  the  hamlet  have,  for  ages,  rested.  Nothing 
at  this  day  remains  but  the  land  they  cultivated,  and 
the  graves  in  which  they  repose ;  but  the  places  are 
well  known,  and  with  increasing  years  will  grow  more 
venerable  and  illustrious. 

The  celebrated  Pochahontas,  (daughter  of  the  Indian 
chief,  Powhatan)  was  the  tutelary  guardian  of  this  set- 


RICHMOND.  31 

tloment  j  and  some  of  her  descendants  are  now  living 
in  Virginia,  Among  tho  most  distinguished,  is  the 
Hon.  John  Randolph.  His  descent  is  thus  given  in  a 
late  Virginia  paper : 

"  Pochahontas  was  afterwards  in  London  in  compa 
ny  with  her  husband,  whoso  name  was  Rolf,  an  Eng 
lishman  by  birth.  She  was  presented  to  the  King  and 
Queen,  by  Lady  Delaware  and  her  husband.  She  was 
present  at  several  masquerades  and  assemblies,  all 
which  sights  gave  her  great  gratification.  Soon  after 
wards,  having  embarked  on  board  the  ship  George, 
from  London,  for  Virginia,  she  fell  sick,  end  died  at 
Gravesend. 

"  Her  young  child,  Thomas  Rolf,  was  left  at  Plym 
outh,  under  the  care  of  Sir  Thomas  Stukely,  who  de 
sired  to  keep  it.  Pochahontas  died  in  1617,  aged  23» 
Thomas  Rolf,  her  son,  afterwards  became  a  citizen  of 
Virginia.  He  left  at  his  death  a  daughter,  this  daugh 
ter  married  Col.  Robert  Boiling,  by  whom  she  left  an 
only  son  and  five  daughters,  who  were  married  res 
pectively  to  Col.  Richard  Randolph,  Col.  John  Fleming, 
Dr.  William  Gay,  Mr.  Thomas  Eldridge,  and  Mr.  James 
Murray. 

"The  noble  blood  of  Pochahontas  flows  in  many 
veins ;  and  the  orator  of  Roanoke  boasts  his  descent 
from  the  daughter  of  Powhatan." 

RICHMOND,  the  capital  of  Virginia,  is  situated  on  the 
north  bank  of  James  river,  directly  at  its  lower  falls, 
and  at  the  head  of  tide  water.  The  town  rises  in  an 
activity  from  the  water,  and  presents  a  beautiful  and 
highly  picturesque  appearance.  A  part  of  the  town, 


32  MONTICELLO. 

on  what  is  called  Schockoe  hill,  overlooks  the  lower 
part ;  and  from  the  capitol,  which  is  on  the  greatest 
eminence,  a  most  delightful  prospect  is  had  of  the  river 
and  adjacent  country.  Besides  the  capitol,  which  is  a 
handsome  edifice,  the  city  contains  an  elegant  court 
house,  a  state  prison,  (which  cost  $135,000)  an  alms- 
house,  2  markets,  a  museum,  an  academy  of  fine  arts, 
a  female  orphan  asylum,  3  banks  and  8  churches.  At 
the  Virginiary  armory,  which  is  erected  here,  are  man 
ufactured  between  4  and  5000  muskets  and  rifles  an 
nually.  The  population  of  the  city  is  nearly  30,000. 

MANCHESTER,  directly  opposite,  is  connected  with 
Richmond  by  two  substantial  bridges,  and  is  a  flourish 
ing  place. 

Among  the  many  objects  of  attraction  in  Virginia,  are 
Monticello,  the  former  residence  of  ex-president  Jeffer 
son,  the  Warm  and  Hot  Springs,  the  Natural  Bridge, 
and  the  Berkley  Springs. 

From  Richmond  to  Monticello,  the  distance  is  80  miles, 
in  a  north-westerly  direction  ;  the  road  passing  Gooch- 
land  county  line,  distant  20  miles ;  Fluvanna  county 
line,  33 ;  Gordonsville,  12  j  Milton,  on  the  Rivanna  riv 
er,  12  j  Monticello,  3. 

MONTICELLO,  was  much  resorted  to  during  the  life 
time  of  its  sage  and  philosopher ;  and  since  his  de 
cease,  the  consecrated  spot  of  his  interment  is  a  place 
of  frequent  visitation.  It  is  thus  described  by  a  late 
traveller : 

"I  ascended  the  winding  road  which  leads  from 
Charlottesville  to  Monticello.  The  path  leads  a  cir- 


MONTICELLO,  33 

cuitous  ascent  of  about  2  miles  up  the  miniature  moun 
tain,  on  which  stand  the  mansion,  the  farm,  and  the 
grave  of  Jefferson.  On  entering  the  gate  which  opens 
into  the  enclosure,  numerous  paths  diverge  in  various 
directions,  winding  through  beautiful  groves  to  the 
summit  of  the  hill.  From  the  peak  on  which  the  house 
stands,  a  grand  and  nearly  illuminated  view  opens,  of 
the  thickly  wooded  hills  and  fertile  vallies,  which 
stretch  out  on  either  side.  The  University,  with  its 
dome,  porticoes,  and  colonades,  looks  like  a  fair  city  in 
the  plain  ;  Charlottes ville  seems  to  be  directly  beneath. 
No  spot  can  be  imagined  as  combining  greater  advan 
tages  of  grandeur,  healthfulness  and  seclusion.  The 
house  is  noble  in  its  appearance  ;  two  large  columns 
support  a  portico,  which  extends  from  the  wings,  and 
into  it  the  front  door  opens.  The  apartments  are  neat 
ly  furnished  and  embellished  with  statues,  busts,  por 
traits,  and  natural  curiosities.  The  grounds  and  out 
houses  have  been  neglected  ;  Mr.  Jefferson's  attention 
being  absorbed  from  such  personal  concerns,  by  the 
cares  attendant  on  the  superintendance  of  the  Univer 
sity,  which,  when  in  health,  he  visited  daily  since  its 
erection  commenced. 

"  At  a  short  distance  behind  the  mansion,  in  a  quiet, 
shaded  spot,  the  visitor  sees  a  square  enclosure,  sur 
rounded  by  a  low  unmortered  stone  wall,  which  he  en 
ters  by  a  neat  wooden  gate.  This  is  the  family  burial 
ground,  containing  10  or  15  graves,  none  of  them 
marked  by  epitaphs,  and  only,  a  few  distinguished  by 
any  memorial.  On  one  side  of  this  simple  cemetry,  is 
the  resting  place  of  the  Patriot  and  Philosopher.  When 
I  saw  it,  the  vault  was  just  arched,  and  in  readiness  for 


94  NATUBAL   BRIDGE. 

the  plain  etone  which  is  to  cover  it.  May  H  ever  oon  - 
tinue  like  Washington's,  without  any  adventitious  at 
tractions  or  conspicuousness  ;  for,  when  we  or  our  pos 
terity  need  any  other  momento  of  our  debt  of  honor  to 
those  names,  than  their  simple  inscription  on  paper, 
wood  or  stone,  gorgeous  tombs  would  be  a  mockery  to 
their  memories.  When  gratitude  shall  cease  to  con 
secrate  their  remembrance  in  the  hearts  of  our  citi 
zens,  no  cenotaph  will  inspire  the  reverence  we  owe  to 
them." 

From  Mwiticello  to  the  Warm  Springs,  is  91  miles,  in  a 
westerly  direction,  passing  through  Charlotte sville  2 
miles,  Rockfish  Gap  24,  Waynesboro'  2,  Staunton  12, 
Cloverdale  28,  Green  Valley  10 ;  from  whence  to  the 
WARM  SPRINGS  is  13  miles.  The  temperature  of  these 
springs  is  about  96°,  and  sufficient  water  issues  from 
them  to  turn  a  mill.  They  are  used  for  bathing,  and 
are  esteemed  valuable  in  rheumatic  complaints. 

The  BATH  or  HOT  SPRING  is  5  miles  farther.  The 
stream  is  small ;  but  the  temperature  is  much  greater 
than  that  of  the  Warm  Springs,  being  112.° 

These  springs  flow  into  the  Jackson,  a  source  of  the 
James  river. 

The  NATURAL  BRIDGE  is  150  miles  west  of  Richmond, 
and  by  diverging  to  the  left,  without  visiting  Monticel- 
lo,  may  be  taken  in  the  route  to  the  Warm  Springs. 
This  bridge  is  over  Cedar  creek,  in  Rockbridge  county, 
12  miles  southwest  of  Lexington,  and  is  justly  consid 
ered  one  of  the  greatest  natural  curiosities  in  the  world. 
The  river  at  thia  place  runs  through  a  chasm  in  a  hill. 


FROM    RICHMOND    TO   WASHINGTON.  85 

The  chasm  is  90  feet  wide  at  the  the  top,  200  feet  deep, 
and  the  Bides  almost  perpendicular.  The  bridge  is 
formed  by  a  huge  rock  thrown  completely  across  this 
chasm  at  the  top.  The  rock  forming  the  bridge  is  60 
feet  broad  in  the  middle,  and  is  covered  with  earth  and 
trees.  It  forms  a  sublime  spectacle  when  examined 
from  the  margin  of  the  river  beneath.* 

FROM  RICHMOND  TO  WASHINGTON  CITY, 

120  miles. 

A  stage  is  generally  taken  at  Richmond  for  the  mouth 
of  the  Potomac  creek,  9  miles  beyond  Fredericksburgh ; 
from  whence  steam-boats  pass  up  the  Potomac  to 
Washington.  The  intermediate  distances  are  as  fol 
lows  : 


*  A  student  of  one  of  the  Virginia  colleges,  a  few 
years  since,  attempted  the  daring  effort  of  climbing  up 
one  of  the  sides  of  this  precipice.  He  had  ascended  50 
or  60  feet  before  he  was  aware  of  the  extreme  hazard  of 
the  undertaking.  It  \vas  then  too  late  to  retreat,  and 
to  progress  seemed  certain  destruction.  He,  however, 
continued  ascending  from  one  crevice  to  another,  hold 
ing  on  the  occasional  protuberances  of  the  rock,  until 
he  reached  the  top.  But  so  arduous  was  the  labor, 
that  his  hands  and  limbs  were  severely  lacerated,  and 
such  was  the  effect  on  his  mind  of  the  perils  and  dan 
gers  encountered,  that  he  became  partially  deranged, 
and  never  fully  recovered  the  possession  of  his  men 
tal  faculties. 


36  MOUNT    VEEN ON. 


By  stage.      Miles. 
From    Richmond    to 
Chickahomany  riv 
er, 10 

Hanover  Court  House,  10 
White  Chimneys, ....  10 
Mattapony  river, ....  8 

Bowling  Green, 6 

Vileboro', 8 


Miles, 

Fredericksburg, 14 

Mouth  of  Potomac 


creek,. 


By  steam-boat. 

Mount  Vernon, 30 

Alexandria, 9 

Washington, 6 


FREDERICKSBURGH  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Rappahannock  river,  110  miles  from  its  outlet  into  the 
Chesapeake  Bay.  It  contains  a  court-house,  jail,  acad 
emy,  2  banks,  4  churches,  and  about  500  dwelling-hou 
ses  ;  and  being  near  the  head  of  navigation  and  sur 
rounded  by  a  fertile  country,  it  enjoys  an  extensive  and 
advantageous  trade. 

The  first  object  of  immediate  interest  on  ascending 
the  Potomac,  is 

MOUNT  VERNON,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  39 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  Potomac  creek.  To  this  sa 
cred  spot  the  mind  of  every  American  recurs  with  the 
most  enthusiastic  devotion.  He  looks  upon  it  as  conse 
crated  ground.  Here  the  immortal  Washington,  after 
heaving  conducted  the  American  armies  forth  to  victory 
and  independence,  retired  to  enjoy  the  rich  reward  of 
his  services  in  the  warm  hearted  gratitude  of  his  coun 
trymen,  and  in  the  peaceful  seclusion  of  private  life. 

This  place  was,  till  recently,  the  residence  of  Judge 
Washington,  the  nephew  of  the  General ;  but  since  his 
decease  in  1829,  the  estate  has  descended  to  John  Ad 
ams  Washington,  a  nephew  of  the  Judge.  The  road  to 
it  is  almost  uninhabited,  and  difficult  to  trace.  The 


ALEXANDRIA.  37 

house  stands  on  an  eminence,  embracing  a  delightful 
view  of  the  Potomac,  with  a  rich  and  beautiful  lawn  ex 
tending  in  front  to  the  river. 

The  TOMB  OF  WASHINGTON  is  visited  as  an  interest 
ing  object  of  contemplation.  Here  slumber  in  peaceful 
silence  the  ashes  of  the  great  and  patriotic  Father  of 
Liberty.  Americans  will  repair  to  his  grave  and  moist 
en  with  their  tears  the  sod  that  presses  upon  his  bosom, 
No  monument  has  yet  been  erected  to  his  memory  ; 
but  it  will  survive,  long  after  monuments  shall  have 
crumbled  into  dust 

ALEXANDRIA,  an  incorporated  city,  9  miles  farther, 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  is  a  place  of  extensive 
business  and  of  fashionable  resort  during  the  sittings  of 
Congress.  It  contains  a  court  house,  6  churches  and 
a  theological  seminary. 

The  Museum  at  this  place,  among  other  things,  con 
tains  an  elegant  satin  robe,  scarlet  on  one  side  and  white 
on  the  other,  in  which  Gen.  Washington  was  baptized ; 
a  penknife  with  a  pearl  handle,  given  to  him  by  his 
mother  when  he  was  in  his  twelfth  year,  and  which  he 
kept  fifty-six  years ;  a  pearl  button,  from  the  coat  he 
wore  at  his  first  inauguration  as  President  of  the  Uni 
ted  States  in  the  old  City  Hall,  New- York  ;  a  black 
glove,  worn  by  him  while  in  mourning  for  his  mother ; 
part  of  the  last  stick  of  sealing  wax  which  he  used ;  the 
original  of  the  last  letter  written  by  him,  being  a  polite 
apology,  in  behalf  of  himself  and  Mrs.  Washington,  for 
declining  an  invitation  to  a  ball  at  Alexandria ;  it  is  penn 
ed  with  singular  neatness,  accuracy  and  precision,  and 
contains  this  expression—"  Alas !  our  dancing  days  are 

** 


38  WASHINGTON  CITY. 

over ;"  a  beautiful  masonic  apron,  with  the  belt  of  scarlet 
satin  and  the  white  kid  gloves  worn  by  him  the  last 
time  he  shared  in  the  social  ceremonies  of  the  "mys 
tic  tie." 

The  country  between  this  city  and  the  capital  is  but 
thinly  inhabited,  and  the  soil  poor  and  unproductive  ; 
but  the  road  is  good,  and  a  ride  to  Alexandria  consti 
tutes  one  of  the  amusements  of  a  winter  at  Washington. 

WASHINGTON  CITY 

Is  6  miles  from  Alexandria.  As  the  seat  of  govern 
ment  of  the  Union,  it  is  a  place  of  much  resort  during 
the  session  of  congress  in  the  winter ;  but  is  mostly  de 
serted  by  strangers  in  the  summer.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Maryland  side  of  the  Potomac,  and  on  a  point  of  land 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Eastern  Branch.  The 
District  of  Columbia,  in  which  the  city  is  located,  was 
ceded  to  the  United  States  by  Maryland  and  Virginia 
in  1790,  and  in  1800  it  became  the  seat  of  the  general 
government.  This  District  is  about  10  miles  square, 
lying  on  both  sides  of  the  Potomac,  and  is  under  the 
immediate  direction  of  congress. 

The  original  plan  of  Washington  when  completed, 
its  public  edifices,  and  the  elegance  of  its  situation,  will 
render  it  one  of  the  most  splendid  cities  in  the  world. 

The  CAPITOL  stands  on  a  high  and  lofty  eminence, 
and  commands  a  delightful  prospect  of  the  Pennsylva 
nia  Avenue,  the  President's  House,  Georgetown  and 
the  Potomac,  the  General  Post-office,  the  Navy  Yard, 
Greenleaf's  Point,  the  bridge  on  the  river,  and  the  road 
to  Alexandria  and  Mount  Vernon.  The  capitol  is  built 
of  white  free  stone,  has  two  wings,  and  is  a  very  mag 
nificent  edifice. 


WASHINGTON  CITY.  99 

The  Rotunda  comprehends  the  spacious  area  between 
the  two  wings  of  the  structure,  and  is  of  a  circular  form. 
It  is  entirely  of  marble,  (and  so  indeed  is  every  perma 
nent  part  of  the  capitol,)  excepting  the  light  doors  cov 
ered  with  green  baize  that  lead  out  of  it,  and  the  frame 
of  the  sky  light  above.  The  height  of  the  dome  soars 
beyond  the  roof,  and  it  may  well  be  imagined,  is  most 
imposing  and  sublime.  The  floor  is  beautifully  paved, 
and  the  sound  of  a  single  voice,  uttering  words  in  an  or 
dinary  tone,  reverberates  aloft  like  the  faint  rumbling 
of  distant  thunder.  When  two  or  more  converse,  there 
is  an  incessant  roaring,  absorbing  the  entire  medium  of 
eound.  Even  the  simple  touch  of  a  walking  stick  on 
the  pavement  distictly  echoes  along  the  circumference, 
and  dies  away  slowly  in  the  capacious  vault ;  BO  ex 
tremely  elastic  is  the  air  within.  There  is  nothing  that 
equals  it  in  this  country  ;  and,  of  itself,  it  well  deserves 
a  journey  to  Washington. 

In  the  niches  designedly  left  about  fifteen  feet  from 
the  floor,  are  four  sculptured  pieces  as  large  as  life,  de 
signed  to  commemorate  the  aboriginal  character  and 
some  of  the  prominent  events  in  the  early  history  of 
the  country.  The  scene  of  the  first  device  is  laid  in 
1773,  and  is  designed  to  represent  a  fearful  contest  be 
tween  Daniel  Boon,  an  early  settler  in  one  of  the  west 
ern  states,  and  an  Indian  chief.  The  second  represents 
the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims  at  Plymouth  in  1610.  The 
third  is  a  representation  of  William  Penn  and  two  In 
dian  chiefs  in  a  treaty  in  1682,  under  the  memorable 
elm  on  the  right  bank  of  tho  Delaware,  near  Philadel 
phia.  And  the  fourth  represents  the  narrow  escape  in 
1606  of  Capt.  John  Smith,  the  first  successful  adveotur- 


40  WASHINGTON  CITY. 

er  in  Virginia,  from  the  uplifted  war  club  of  King  Pow- 
hatan.  The  figure  of  Pocahontas,  in  the  attitude  of 
supplicating  the  mercy  of  her  father  in  behalf  of  the  in 
tended  victim,  is  beautifully  wrought,  and  the  whole 
exhibits  much  elegance  of  design  and  workmanship. 

The  Chamber  of  the  House  of  Representatives  is  one  of 
the  richest  and  most  splendid  apartments  of  the  kind 
that  has  ever  been  constructed.  It  is  semi-circular, 
with  dark  blue  columns  of  polished  stone,  and  is  light 
ed  from  the  roof. 

The  National  Library  is  in  the  same  edifice,  and  con 
tains  the  paintings  execcuted  by  Col.  Trumbull.  They 
are  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  the  surrender  of 
the  English  armies  on  the  plains  of  Saratoga  and  at 
Yorktown,  and  General  Washington  in  the  act  of  re 
signing  his  commission.* 

The  President's  House,  which  is  also  constructed  of 
stone,  two  stories  high,  with  four  spacious  buildings 
near  it  for  the  accommodation  of  the  heads  of  depart 
ment,  make  together  an  interesting  spectacle  for  the 
visitant. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  spot  in  the  United  States  that 
holds  out  more  inducements  to  a  traveller  than  this  city 
during  the  sessions  of  congress.  It  is  the  theatre  on 

*  Capt.  Hall,  in  his  travels  in  the  U.  S.  speaking  of 
the  capitol,  says  :  "  By  some  strange  perversity  of  taste, 
however,  for  which  I  never  could  learn  to  whom  the 
public  were  indebted,  this  fine  building  has  been  cover 
ed  over  with  a  coating  of  paint !"  He  should  have  been 
told  that  the  painting  was  designed  to  hide  the  smoke 
occasioned  by  the  conflagration  which  succeeded  the 
capture  of  the  city  by  the  British  troops  in  1814. 


GEORGETOWN.  41 

which  the  pride  and  power  of  the  American  nation  are 
congregated  to  control  the  destinies  of  a  mighty  people. 
It  is  the  residence  of  all  the  foreign  ministers,  and  em 
braces  a  large  portion  of  the  gay  and  fashionable  world. 
The  levees  at  the  house  of  the  president  are  fascinat 
ing  ;  and  the  apartments  on  these  occasions  are  open 
and  accessible  to  every  citizen  of  the  republic. 

The  NAVY  YARD,  located  on  the  eastern  branch  of 
the  Potomac,  is  an  object  worthy  of  attention.  An  ele 
gant  monument  is  here  erected  to  the  memory  of  the 
American  officers  who  fell  in  the  Tripolitan  war. 

GEORGETOWN  is  on  the  same  side  of  the  Potomac  with 
Washington,  at  the  distance  of  3  miles  west  of  the  capi- 
tol.  It  is  very  pleasantly  situated,  and  is  a  place  of 
considerable  trade.  The  country  around  it  is  richly  di 
versified,  and  the  location  of  the  CATHOLIC  MONASTERY 
is  very  delightful.  It  stands  on  the  borders  of  "  the 
heights,"  in  the  north  west  part  of  the  town,  and  over 
looks  the  body  of  the  town  below.  The  enclosure  em 
braces  about  one  acre.  On  the  north  side  is  the  acad 
emy  conducted  by  the  nuns,  consisting  of  a  long  range 
of  buildings  three  stories  high.  In  the  middle  of  the 
front  or  eastern  side  stands  the  chapel.  On  the  left 
of  the  chapel  is  the  room  of  the  father  confessor,  and 
also  the  private  apartment  of  the  nuns,  into  which  no 
unhallowed  tread  of  the  worldly  and  profane  is  ever  ad 
mitted. 

The  Academy,  or  High  School  for  Ladies,  is  the  most 
interesting  appendage  of  the  convent.  It  contains  a 
boarding  school  of  upwards  of  one  hundred  pupils,  and 
a  free  or  charity  school  of  a  much  larger  number  of  day 


42  GEORGETOWN. 

scholars.  What  strikes  the  visitor  with  most  pleasure 
is  the  perfect  system  and  order  with  which  every  thing 
is  done.  The  young  misses  who  compose  the  school 
are  regularly  and  rigidly  trained  to  do  every  thing  on 
plan  and  method. 

The  seminary  is  divided  into  four  classes.  The  hall 
of  the  first  class  contains  an  extensive  cabinet  of  miner 
als,  to  which  many  rare  and  valuable  specimens  have 
been  presented  by  the  officers  of  our  navy,  and  by  cath 
olics  of  the  eastern  world.  It  has  also  many  rich  spe 
cimens  of  art ;  the  contributions  of  wealthy  and  pow 
erful  patrons  of  the  church.  The  sword,  sheath  and 
belt  of  Iturbide,  once  a  hero  of  South  America,  two  of 
whose  daughters  are  now  in  this  convent,  were  recently 
presented  to  the  cabinet  by  Commodore  Rodgers.  It 
also  claims  to  have  many  sacred  relics,  such  as  shreds 
or  scraps  from  the  garments  of  numerous  saints — frag 
ments  from  the  church  and  tomb  of  St.  Peter,  and  of 
other  saints — pieces  of  the  wood  of  the  cross,  &c.  of 
which  the  industry  and  credulity  of  the  Catholics  in  the 
east  have  collected  enough  in  the  last  1400  years  to 
build  a  ship  of  the  line.  These  relics,  so  says  tradition, 
have  been  carefully  preserved  by  a  long  line  of  popes, 
bishops  and  priests,  and  distributed  among  the  church 
es  and  their  convents,  as  the  memorials  of  many  pre 
cious  and  hallowed  associations.  The  veneration  with 
which  they  are  regarded  by  catholics  is  well  known. 
The  same  hall  containing  the  cabinet  has  a  good  chem 
ical  labaratory. 

The  number  of  nuns  in  thia  convent,  at  present,  is 
about  sixty.  Among  them  are  descendants  of  rich  and 
powerful  families.  Their  employment  consists  in  con- 


FKOM  WASHINGTON   TO   BALTIMORE.  43 

fessions,  vigils,  fasts,  penances,  reading  and  religious 
exercises,  in  teaching,  in  domestic  concerns,  and  in 
making  fine  needle-work  for  sale.  The  charity  school 
embraces  about  200  day  pupils.  For  their  humanity 
and  benevolence  in  collecting  and  teaching  these  chil 
dren,  the  nuns  deserve  praise.  In  these  employments 
they  appear  happy ;  but  the  happiness  of  these  devo 
tees,  if  real,  must  be  of  the  negative  kind. 

THE  CHESAPEAKE  AND  OHIO  CANAL,  was  commenced 
on  the  4th  of  July,  1828,  and  is  now  in  a  state  of  for 
wardness.  It  is  to  extend  from  Georgetown,  D.  C.  to 
near  Pittsburgh,  Penn.  where  it  will  unite  with  the 
Pennsylvania  canal  and  the  Ohio  river.  Its  length  will 
be  360  miles,  and  its  lockage  4004  feet.  This  canal, 
towards  the  construction  of  which  the  United  States 
have  subscribed  $200,000,  will  pass  through  an  interest 
ing  part  of  the  state  of  Pennsylvania,  which  it  will 
greatly  benefit,  and  prove  of  immense  importance  to  the 
city  of  Pittsburgh. 

FROM  WASHINGTON  TO  BALTIMORE— 38  miles. 
There  are  from  12  to  15  lines  of  stages  running  daily 
between  Washington  and  Baltimore  ;  so  that  a  passage 
can  be  taken  at  almost  any  hour  of  the  day.  The  in 
termediate  distances  are  as  follows : 

Miles.  Miles. 

Bladensburgh, 6      Patapsco  river, 9 

Vansville, 8      Gwinn's  Falls, 5 

Patuxent  r.  W.  Branch,  3     Baltimore, 3 

do.         E.  Branch,  4 


44  BALTIMORE. 

BALTIMORE,* 

The  rapid  growth  and  present  extent  and  population 
of  this  city  is  truly  remarkable,  and  to  be  ascribed  no 
less  to  the  spirit  of  enterprise  which  has  always  char 
acterised  its  inhabitants,  than  to  the  natural  advantages 
of  its  position.  Its  scite  is  on  the  north  side,  and  at 
the  head  of  tide  water  on  the  Patapsco  river,  14  miles 
above  its  entrance  into  the  Chesapeake.  The  centena 
ry  of  its  existence  was  celebrated  in  August,  1829.  On 
the  8th  of  that  month,  in  1729,  the  first  act  was  passed 
for  laying  out  the  town  on  sixty  acres  of  land,  from 
which  the  native  forests  had  then  but  partially  given 
place  to  the  axe  and  the  plough.  These  sixty  acres  were 
purchased  at  forty  shillings  per  acre,  to  be  paid  in  mon 
ey,  or  tobacco  at  one  penny  per  pound.  The  progress 
of  the  city  at  first  was  sluggish  and  unpromising.  Thir 
ty-three  years  after  its  location,  (1752,)  it  contained 
but  twenty-five  houses,  and  a  small  brig  and  sloop  were 
the  only  vessels  owned  in  the  town.  Even  up  to  1773, 
the  merchants  were  compelled  to  send  their  advertise 
ments  to  Annapolis  or  Philadelphia,  there  being  no 
newspaper  then  published  in  Baltimore.  Now,  with 
its  population  rising  above  70,000,  it  may  be  consider 
ed  the  third  city  in  the  union ;  whilst,  for  its  various 
manufactories  and  public  buildings,  ornamental  to  the 

*  For  the  description  of  Baltimore  and  its  environs, 
(excepting  that  part  relating  to  the  rail  road  which  is 
quoted,)  I  am  indebted  to  JOHN  S.  SKINNER,  Esq.,  the 
Post  Master  of  that  city,  and  able  editor  of  the  Ameri 
can  Farmer ;  a  work  which  has  an  extensive  patron 
age,  but  which  cannot  be  too  widely  disseminated. 


BALTIMORE.  45 

city  and  remarkable  for  their  costliness,  taste  and  com- 
modiousness,  it  stands  undoubtedly  in  the  first  rank  for 
enterprise  and  public  spirit.  For  tobacco  and  flour 
Baltimore  is  the  leading  market ;  for  flour,  the  first  in 
the  world.  Within  20  miles  around,  the  water  power 
is  almost  incalculable.  It  drives  at  present  more  than 
sixty  flour  mills,  one  of  which  has  turned  out  32,000  bar 
rels  in  one  year.  There  are,  too,  within  that  compass, 
twelve  cotton  manufactories,  keeping  in  motion  30,000 
spindles,  besides  manufactories  of  cloth,  powder,  paper, 
iron,  glass,  steam  engines,  extensive  chemical  works, 
and  one  mill  by  steam  power  for  manufacturing  flour 
and  copper,  that  has  turned  off  200  barrels  a  day,  and 
works  annually  about  600,000  pounds  of  raw  copper. 
Many  of  these  may  conveniently  be  visited  by  sojourn- 
ers  in  the  city,  on  foot  or  by  short  rides  in  the  immedi 
ate  vicinity. 

The  city,  as  re-chartered  in  1816,  contains  10,000 
acres,  and  embraces  within  the  limits  built  upon,  a 
court  house,  jail,  penitentiary,  lunatic  asylum,  two  the 
atres,  the  largest  circus  in  America,  an  exchange,  an 
observatory  founded  by  the  father  of  the  gallant  Com 
modore  Porter,  two  museums,  five  market  houses,  ten 
banks,  gas  works,  (the  first  in  this  country  for  lighting 
the  streets  and  houses,)  a  public  library,  a  medical  col 
lege,  and  45  houses  of  public  worship. 

Most  of  these  establishments  would  be  worthy  of  the 
regard  of  tourists.  It  cannot  be  expected  that  we 
should  describe  them  minutely,  our  object  being  but 
briefly  to  indicate  their  existence  ;  but  almost  all  stran 
gers  make  a  visit  to  the  cathedral,  the  exchange,  the 
public  fountains,  of  which  there  are  four  tastefully  or- 


46  BALTIMORE. 

namented  and  giving  a  copious  supply  of  pure  spring 
water  ;  the  museums,  the  monuments,  and  the  rail 
roads. 

The  CATHEDRAL  is  built  after  the  Grecian  Ionic  order, 
on  a  plan  drawn  by  that  distinguished  and  lamented 
architect,  the  late  H.  B.  Latrobe.  Its  outward  length 
is  190  feet,  its  width  177,  and  its  height  to  the  summit 
of  the  cross  that  surmounts  the  dome  is  127  feet.  A 
minute  description  of  the  numerous  ornaments  and  spe 
cimens  of  taste  in  the  fine  arts  that  abound  in  this 
magnificent  building,  would  be  incompatible  with  the 
plan  of  this  work  ;  but  we  may  advise  the  tourist  that, 
amongst  others,  it  contains  the  largest  organ  in  the 
United  States,  with  6000  pipes  and  36  stops,  and  two 
very  splendid  paintings— one  the  descent  from  the  cross, 
by  Paulin  Guerin,  a  present  from  Louis  XVI — another, 
presented  by  the  present  King  of  France,  representing 
St.  Louis,  attended  by  his  chaplain  and  armor-bearer, 
burying  one  of  his  officers  slain  before  Tunis,  as  an  en 
couragement  to  his  officers  and  soldiers,  who,  for  fear 
of  contagion,  would  have  left  their  comrades  to  be  de 
voured  by  beasts  and  birds  of  prey. 

The  MERCHANTS'  EXCHANGE,  built  by  private  sub 
scription,  is  another  monument  to  the  public  spirit  of 
the  citizens.  This  edifice,  from  Water  to  Second,  front 
ing  on  Gay-street,  is  255  by  a  depth  on  the  two  first  of 
141  feet,  and  is  three  stories  high  exclusive  of  the  base 
ment.  In  the  centre  is  the  great  hall,  86  feet  by  53, 
lighted  from  the  dome,  which  is  90  feet  from  the  floor. 
In  this  hall,  to  which  they  have  access  by  three  entran 
ces  from  three  streets,  the  merchants  convene  daily 
from  1  to  2  o'clock. 


BALTIMORE.  47 

On  a  scale  corresponding  with  these  buildings  tn  ex 
tent  and  convenience,  according  to  their  several  de 
signs  and  objects,  the  traveller  may  be  edified  and 
amused  by  an  inspection  of  the  other  public  edifices, 
which  here  we  could  only  designate  by  name.  But  in 
any  thing  like  a  picture  of  Baltimore  as  a  guide  for  the 
tourist,  its  monuments  and  its  rail  roads,  leading  to  the 
Ohio  and  the  Susquehannah,  are  decidedly  the  most 
striking  features.  The  one  called  the  BATTLE  MONU 
MENT,  an  elegant  marble  structure  about  55  feet  high, 
was  commenced  on  the  scite  of  the  old  court  house  in 
Washington  Square,  on  the  12th  of  September,  1815,  in 
memory  of  those  who,  on  the  12th  and  13th  of  the 
same  month  in  the  preceding  year,  had  fallen  gallantly 
in  defence  of  the  city. 

Another  splendid  monument  called  the  WASHINGTON 
MONUMENT,  built  of  white  marble,  ornamental  to  the 
city  and  honourable  to  its  inhabitants,  (but  vain  as 
an  effort  to  extend  the  fame  of  him  whose  glory  is  as 
wide  and  imperishable  as  the  empire  of  letters,)  has 
been  erected  on  an  elevation  a  little  north  of  the  com 
pact  part  of  the  city,  presented  for  that  purpose  by  the 
late  Col.  John  E.  Howard,  the  hero  of  Eutaw  and  of 
the  Cowpens.  The  base  is  50  feet  square  and  23  high, 
on  which  is  placed  another  square  of  about  half  the  ex 
tent  and  elevation.  On  this,  is  a  column  20  feet  in  di 
ameter  at  the  base,  and  14  at  the  top.  The  colossal 
statue  of  Washington,  the  largest  one  in  modern  ages, 
is  placed  on  the  summit  163  feet  from  the  ground. 
This  monument  is  to  be  embellished  with  bas  reliefs 
and  other  decorations. 

D2 


48  BALTIMORE. 

The  BALTIMORE  AND  OHIO  RAIL  ROAD  commences  a 
short  distance  from  the  Washington  turnpike  road  on 
West  Pratt  street,  where  the  company  have  establish 
ed  a  depot.  It  is  finished  as  far  as  Ellicott's  mills,  and 
supplied  with  rails  a  considerable  portion  of  this  dis 
tance  ;  so  that  carriages  are  daily  passing  on  it,  and  in 
the  course  of  the  summer,  (1830)  it  is  expected  that 
passengers  and  transportation  waggons  will  regularly 
occupy  the  road,  and  afford  to  citizens  and  strangers 
one  of  the  most  delightful  trips  imaginable.  There  are 
few  more  romantic  scenes  than  that  of  Ellicott's  mills 
and  the  vicinity  on  the  Patapsco,  through  the  most  pic 
turesque  part  of  which  the  road  passes  ;  and  as  the 
time  occupied  in  going  will  only  be  about  an  hour,  and 
the  mode  of  travelling  being  as  free  from  jolt  and  jar  as 
a  sleigh  ride,  it  is  anticipated  that  few  will  leave  the 
city  without  having  taken  one  of  these  airings.  There 
are  many  points  on  the  rail  road  worthy  of  particular 
notice,  the  most  prominent  of  which  is  the  bridge  (or 
CarroUton  Viaduct  as  it  is  called,)  over  Gwynn's  Falls, 
about  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  city.  This  is  one 
of  the  most  magnificent  pieces  of  architecture  in  Ameri 
ca — alike  beautiful  in  proportion,  materials  and  work 
manship.  This  bridge  is  built  of  a  beautiful  granite, 
contains  one  arch  of  about  80  feet  span,  and  40  feet  in 
height,  and  is  312  feet  in  length  from  end  to  end  of  the 
parapets. 

"  The  Jackson  Bridge,  is  a  single  arch  109  feet  long, 
of  entirely  novel  structure,  the  invention  of  Col.  Long, 
of  the  company's  board  of  engineers.  The  Deep  Cut, 
through  a  high  and  broad  ridge  of  land,  is  about  three 
fourths  of  a  mile  in  length,  its  greatest  depth  70  feet, 


BATIMORE.  49 

and  its  width,  at  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  184  feet. 
Quantities  of  carbonized  wood  were  found  sixty  feet 
below  the  natural  surface,  and  the  stump  of  a  tree  with 
its  roots  at  forty  feet.  The  entire  excavation  is  263,- 
848  cubic  yards.  The  Great  Embankment  at  Gadsbtfs 
Run,  five  miles  from  Baltimore,  is  nearly  a  mile  in 
length,  its  greatest  elevation  56  feet,  and  its  greatest 
width  191  feet.  At  the  top,  the  usual  width  of  26  feet 
is  preserved  for  a  double  set  of  rails.  Gadsby's  Run 
Viaduct,  affords  a  passage  to  the  waters  of  the  run 
through  the  embankment.  The  arch,  composed  of 
dressed  granite  blocks,  is  of  the  extraordinary  width  of 
120  feet  from  opening  to  opening.  The  Patterson  Via 
duct,  is  an  immense  structure  of  granite,  by  which  the 
road  is  carried  to  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Petapsco.  It 
is  built  of  granite  blocks,  from  one  to  seven  tons  in 
weight,  and  its  entire  length  is  375  feet.  It  has  four 
beautiful  arches,  the  two  centre  ones  each  a  span  of  55 
feet,  with  extensive  wings  and  water  walls,  abutments, 
&c.  The  height  from  the  water  to  the  crown  of  the 
arches  is  30  feet.  The  corner  stone  of  this  structure 
was  laid  on  the  6th  May,  1829,  and  on  the  4th  of  De 
cember  it  was  crossed  on  horseback  by  William  Pat 
terson,  esq.  for  whom  the  honor  had  been  reserved,  and 
whose  name  it  bears.  It  embraces  nearly  10,000 
perches  of  masonry.  Besides  these  are  the  embank 
ments  at  Stillhouse  Run,  two  granite  viaducts,  the 
rock-side  cutting  at  Buzzard's  Rock,  &c." 

This  road  is  to  extend  to  the  Ohio  river  at  Pitts 
burgh,  Penn.  a  distance  of  about  300  miles  ;  and  will 
be  travelled,  it  is  calculated,  with  horse  power  in  30,  and 
with  steam  power  in  20  hours  through  the  whole  line. 


50  BALTIMORE. 

The  BALTIMORE  AND  SUSQUEHANNAH  RAIL  ROAD  has 
also  been  commenced.  It  is  to  extend  from  Baltimore 
to  York  Haven  on  the  Susquehannah  river,  distant  60 
miles.  The  cost  is  estimated  at  $7,500  per  mile. 

For  its  houses  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers, 
Baltimore  is  not  remarkable,  except  forks  CITY  HOTEL. 
This  is  the  most  splendid  edifice  of  its  kind  in  the  un 
ion,  if  not  in  the  world.  It  is  centrally  and  most  con 
veniently  situated,  presenting  a  front  on  Calvert  street 
of  117  feet,  running  back  183 — taking  in  two  spacious 
buildings  formerly  occupied  as  private  residences,  so 
connected  with  the  establishment  as  to  afford  two  dis 
tinct  private  entrances  on  Fayette  street,  which  lead  to 
thirteen  parlors  arranged  expressly  for  the  accommoda 
tion  of  private  families,  with  chambers  so  connected 
with  them  as  to  make  them  as  convenient  for  ladies  and 
children  as  any  private  house.  The  City  Hotel  con 
tains  172  apartments,  and  was  built  expressly  for  a  ho 
tel,  under  the  direction  of  its  experienced  proprietor, 
Mr.  Barnum.  In  the  basement  of  the  building  on  Cal 
vert  street  is  situated  the  Post-Office,  into  which  the 
traveller  may  deposit  his  letters  by  a  conduit  from  the 
large  Reading  Room  above,  where  they  can  peruse, 
gratuitously,  the  papers  from  all  parts  of  the  union. 
There  are  also  in  the  basement  the  offices  of  the  Amer 
ican  Turf  Register  and  of  the  American  Farmer,  as  also 
the  General  Stage  Office  of  Stockton  &  Stokes.  All 
the  mail  coaches  start  from  this  hotel.  To  all  other  con 
veniences  combined  in  this  establishment  which  travel 
lers  can  desire,  is  added  an  observatory  on  the  top  of  it, 
constructed  expressly  to  afford  to  its  guests  views  of  the 
harbor  and  Fort  M'Henry,  and  the  town,  and  the  coun 
try  seats  that  surround  it. 


BALTIMORE.  51 

The  INDIAN  QUEEN,  the  next  largest  establishment, 
is  well  and  liberally  kept  by  Mr.  Bettzhower,  its  obli 
ging  and  popular  tenant. 

And  here  we  may  close  this  sketch  of  that  patriotic 
city  by  the  remark,  that  it  is  in  nothing  more  distin 
guished  from  our  other  large  cities,  than  by  the  beauty 
of  its  environs.  A  succession  of  elevated  scites  rising 
one  above  another  encircle  it  from  the  Philadelphia 
road  on  the  east  to  the  Washington  turnpike  on  the 
west.  From  these  eminences  the  stranger  obtains,  at  a 
single  coup  d'ceil,  a  view  of  the  town  and  its  numerous  ap 
proaches  by  land  and  water,  its  monuments,  its  domes, 
its  steeples  and  its  towers. 

Some  of  these  heights  are  crowned  with  private  res 
idences,  displaying  all  the  taste  and  magnificence  that 
characterize  the  seats  of  European  opulence  and  re 
finement.  Of  these,  the  most  expensively  embellished 
and  conspicuous  is  "  GREEN  MOUNT,"  the  elegant  sum 
mer  retreat  of  a  gentleman  whose  taste  and  hospitality 
happily  correspond  with  his  ample  possessions.  To 
the  splendid  mansion,  with  all  its  incidental  accommo 
dations,  on  the  most  extensive  and  liberal  scale,  is  con 
nected  a  circular  promenade  of  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
in  length,  overshadowed  by  trees  from  every  clime, 
tempting  to  healthful  exercise,  and  offering  on  either 
hand  every  variety  of  fruit  and  flower  that  cultivated 
nature  has  prepared  to  delight  the  eye  and  gratify  the 
palate.  Whilst  for  the  benevolent  proprietor  a  sentiment 
of  universal  and  profound  respect  consecrates  his  100 
acres  that  border  on  this  line  of  the  city,  guarding  them 
from  the  hand  of  depredation,  strangers  entitled  to  con- 


FROM  BALTIMORE  TO  PHILADELPHIA. 


sideration  visit  Green  Mount  without  difficulty  and  ad 
mire  it  without  measure. 

Finally,  in  contemplating  Baltimore  in  its  various  ob 
jects  of  attraction  for  the  tourist,  it  is  not  possible  to 
forget  one  living  monument,  around  which  the  most  in 
teresting  moral  associations  are  entwined ;  for  it  is 
there  that  still  resides  the  last  of  the  ancient  fathers 
who  sent  forth  our  glorious  proclamation  of  independ 
ence  to  the  world.  Whilst  its  principles  continue  to  be 
cherished  and  honored,  posterity  will  hallow  with 
grateful  admiration  the  name  of  CHARLES  CARROLL  OF 
CARROLLTON. 

FROM  BALTIMORE  TO  PHILADELPHIA. 

A  daily  land  or  water  route  can  be  taken  ;  but  since 
the  completion  of  the  Chesapeake  and  Delaware  Ca 
nal,  the  latter  is  generally  preferred.     Both  routes, 
however,  are  given,  .with  the  intermediate  distances  : 
STAGE  ROUTE — 101  miles. 


Miles. 
From  Baltimore  to 

Herring's  Run, 4 

Bird's  Run, 8 

Great  Gunpowder 

falls, 3 

Little  do 2 

Winter's  Run, 4 

Hartford, 4 

Havre  de  Grace,. ...  11 

Susquehannah  river,  1 

Charleston, 5 

North  East  river,...  2 


Miles. 

Elkton, 8 

Big  Elk  Creek, 1 

Delaware  state  line, »  2 

Christiana  Creek, ...  3 

Christiana, 5 

Newport, 5 

Wilmington,* 4 

Brandywine  Creek,.  1 

Chester, 13 

Darby, 8 

Schuylhill  river, 6 

Philadelphia, 1 


*  WILMINGTON,  a  port  of  entry  and  the  largest  town 
in  the  state  of  Delaware,  is  the  only  place  of  much  in> 


FROM  BALTIMORE  TO  PHILADELPHIA.     53 

STEAM  BOAT  AND  CANAL  ROUTE — 96  miles. 


Miles. 
Steam  boat. 
From  Baltimore  to 
North  Point,  Ches- 

apeak  bay,) 12 

Poole's  Island, 10 

Mouth  of  Elk  river,.   18 
Chesapeake  village, 
on    Back    river, 
where  the  Canal 

commences 4 

Canal  boat. 
Passage  on  the  Ca- 


Miles. 
nal  to  Delaware 

city, 14 

Steam  boat. 

Newcastle, 5 

Outlet  of   Brandy- 
wine  creek,. ....  4 

Marcus  Hook, 9 

Chester, 3 

Lazaretto, 3 

Fort  Mifflin, 8 

Gloucester, 2 

Philadelphia, 4 


This  route  is  usually  performed  in  about  12  hours. 
The  steam  boat,  after  leaving  the  Chesapeake  bay  en 
ters  Elk  river,  but  instead  of  pursuing  the  old  route  up 
the  river  to  Frenchtown,  her  course  is  directed  up  Back 
Creek  to  the  village  of  Chester.  This  creek  is  narrow 
and  tortuous  in  its  course,  and  the  banks  are  for  the 
most  part  covered  with  a  thick  foliage  of  the  richest 


portance  on  this  route.  The  town  is  situated  between 
Christiana  and  Brandywine  creeks,  1  mile  above  their 
confluence,  and  2  miles  west  of  the  Delaware  river. 
The  great  facilities  afforded  here  make  it  an  important 
manufacturing  town ;  it  having  some  of  the  finest  flour 
ing  mills  and  cotton  factories  in  the  union.  It  con 
tains  from  10  to  12,000  inhabitants,  a  spacious  alms- 
house,  3  banks,  a  U.  S.  arsenal,  and  9  churches.  An 
ancient  building,  called  the  old  Swedish  church,  erect 
ed  in  1698,  stands  near  the  Christiana  creek  in  this 
town;  opposite  to  which  is  an  ancient  church-yard, 
used  by  the  first  settlers  of  the  place.  It  contains  a 
few  tomb-stones,  the  inscriptions  of  which  are  nearly 
defaced  by  the  hand  of  time. 


54  CHESAPEAKE   AND   DELAWARE   CANAL. 

and  most  delightful  kind,  rendered  more  picturesque 
by  being  interspersed  with  an  occasional  fishing  hut. 
At  the  village  of  Chesapeake,  the 

CHESAPEAKE  AND  DELAWARE  CANAL  commences, 
where  a  packet  is  taken,  drawn  by  six  horses.  These 
packets  are  fitted  up  in  good  style,  and  move  at  the 
rate  of  about  7  miles  an  hour.  This  canal,  which  con 
nects  the  waters  of  the  Chesapeake  bay  with  those  of 
the  Delaware  river,  is  14  miles  long,  36  feet  wide  on 
the  bottom  and  60  feet  at  the  surface.  It  is  calculated 
for  the  passage  of  vessels  drawing  8  feet  of  water, 
though  the  banks  are  constructed  so  as  to  retain  10 
feet,  if  necessary.  There  are  two  tide  and  two  lift 
locks,  and  the  summit  level  is  a  little  more  than  9 
miles  long,  and  10  feet  above  ordinary  flood  tide.  Be 
tween  2  and  3  miles  from  Chesapeake  village  com 
mences  what  is  called  the  Deep  Cut.  Its  length  is 
nearly  four  miles,  and  the  embankments  vary  from  8 
to  70  feet  in  height.  To  furnish  something  of  an  idea 
of  the  magnitude  of  the  work,  it  is  stated  that  the  earth 
excavated  to  form  this  part  of  the  canal  and  the  neces 
sary  drains  was  more  than  90  millions  of  cubic  feet. 
At  the  greatest  elevation  a  most  imposing  work,  called 
Summit  Bridge  has  been  extended  across.  It  is  built 
on  a  hard  firm  bank,  where  the  original  surface  attains 
an  elevation  of  65  feet,  above  which  the  abutments  are 
built  20  feet  in  thickness.  The  sides  of  the  canal  be 
low  the  abutments  are  protected  by  a  slope  wall  laid 
from  the  bottom  of  the  canal  to  the  top  of  the  bank, 
from  six  to  two  feet  in  thickness.  The  floor  of  the 
bridge  is  90  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  canal ;  ex 
treme  length  280  feet.  Independently  of  the  interest 


PHILADELPHIA.  55 

excited  by  the  bridge,  the  view  of  the  canal  from  its 
commanding  height  is  grand  beyond  description.  A 
flight  of  steps  have  been  erected,  to  facilitate  the  as 
cent  from  the  tow-path  up  the  bank. 

After  leaving  the  Deep  Cut,  the  canal  enters  what 
is  called  The  Old  Mill  Pond,  three  miles  beyond  the 
Cranberry  Marshes.  Three  miles  farther  are  the  St. 
Ceorge's  Marshes,  the  forming  of  the  banks  of  the  ca 
nal  through  which  was  an  immense  labor.  The  spe 
cific  gravity  of  the  earth  used  for  the  purpose  exceed 
ing  that  of  the  surrounding  marshes,  it  sunk  in  many 
places  as  fast  as  it  could  be  carted  on,  and  in  some  in 
stances  it  is  calculated  to  have  gone  to  a  depth  of  from 
60  to  80  feet,  and  in  one  place  100  feet  below  the  orig 
inal  surface,  raising  many  ares  of  the  adjacent  marsh 
es  several  feet  above  original  level.  . 

At  the  eastern  terfnination  of  the  canal,  the  CITY  OP 
DELAWARE  has  sprung  up  like  many  of  the  flourishing 
villages  on  the  banks  of  the  Erie  canal  in  New- York. 
It  will  probably  become  a  place  of  considerable  impor 
tance.  At  this  village  a  steam  boat  is  again  taken, 
which,  proceeding  up  the  Delaware  river,  passes  in  suc 
cession  the  villages  of  Newcastle,  Chester  and  Laza 
retto,  Fort  Mifflin  on  an  island  in  the  Delaware,  and 
Gloucester,  to 

PHILADELPHIA, 

The  flourishing  capital  of  Pennsylvania.  It  stands 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  river  Delaware,  five  miles  from 
its  confluence  with  the  Schuylkill,  which  forms  its  wes 
tern  boundary.  This  city  was  founded  in  1682,  and 
incorporated  in  1701.  The  charter  being  abrogated  at 


56  PHILADELPHIA. 

the  revolution,  it  remained  under  a  provincial  govern 
ment  till  1789,  when  it  was  incorporated  a  second  time. 
Its  present  population  is  upwards  of  130,000.  The  city 
is  built  on  streets  from  50  to  100  feet  in  width,  running 
parallel,  and  at  right  angles  to  each  other.  They  are 
handsomely  paved,  and  are  kept  remarkably  clean. 
The  houses  exhibit  an  appearance  of  neatness,  uniform 
ity  and  commodiousness,  and  many  of  them  are  orna 
mented  with  white  marble.  Against  the  city,  which 
is  90  miles  distant  from  the  sea,  the  Delaware  is  about 
a  mile  wide,  and  is  navigable  for  ships  of  a  large  size. 
The  most  conspicuous  buildings  are  the  churches,  the 
state  house,  the  United  States  and  Pennsylvania  Banks, 
and  the  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb.  The  Bank 
of  the  U.  S.  was  established  in  the  year  1816,  with  a 
capital  of  $35,000,000.  The  banking  house  is  a  splen 
did  structure,  built  on  the  plan  of  the  Parthenon  at 
Athens,  and  is  situated  in  a  north  and  south  direction, 
fronting  on  Chesnut  and  Library  streets,  having  8  fluted 
columns,  4  feet  6  inches  in  diameter,  embracing  the 
whole  front.  From  each  of  the  fronts  are  porticoes^ 
projecting  10  feet  6  inches.  The  whole  length  of  the 
edifice,  including  the  portico,  is  161  feet,  and  its  breadth 
in  front  87  feet.  The  main  entrance  is  from  Chesnut- 
street,  by  a  flight  of  six  marble  steps,  extending  along 
the  whole  front  of  the  portico.  The  banking  room  oc 
cupies  the  centre  of  the  building,  being  48  feet  wide, 
and  81  feet  long.  The  whole  body  of  the  building  is 
arched  in  a  bomb  proof  manner,  from  the  cellar  to  the 
roof,  which  is  covered  with  copper. 

There  are  in  this  city  88  houses  for  public  worship  ; 
10  banks,  13  insurance  companies,  of  which  8  are  ma- 


PHILADELPHIA.  57 

rine,  4  fire,  and  one  for  lives  and  annuities,  a  custom 
house,  an  exchange,  and  a  chamber  of  commerce. 

The  New  Bank  of  Pennsylvania  is  an  extensive  and  el 
egant  edifice  of  marble,  of  the  Ionic  order,  and  con 
structed  after  the  model  of  the  ancient  temple  of  the 
muses,  on  the  Ilyssus. 

The  Pennsylvania  Hospital  is  one  of  the  oldest  and 
most  respectable  institutions  of  that  description  in  the 
Union, 

The  STATE  HOUSE,  in  which  the  continental  congress 
sat,  and  from  whence  the  Declaration  of  Independence 
issued,  is  still  standing.  It  is  located  in  Chesnut-street, 
is  built  of  brick,  comprising  a  centre  and  two  wings,  and 
has  undergone  no  material  alteration  since  its  first  erec 
tion.  It  has  a  venerable  appearance,  and  is  surmount 
ed  by  a  cupola,  having  a  clock,  the  dial  of  which  is 
glass,  and  is  illuminated  at  night  until  10  or  11  o'clock, 
shewing  the  hour  and  minutes  until  that  time.  The 
front  is  a  considerable  distance  back  from  the  street, 
the  walk  being  paved  to  the  curb-stone  with  brick,  and 
two  elegant  rows  of  trees  extending  its  whole  length. 
East  of  the  main  entrance,  in  the  front  room,  the  ses 
sions  of  congress  were  held,  and*  the  question  of  inde 
pendence  decided. 

The  ARCADE  in  Philadelphia,  like  that  at  New- York, 
has  proved  a  bad  speculation — though  the  former  is 
twice  the  size  of  the  latter,  and  appears  to  be  more  de 
serted.  It  contains  Peale's  Museum,  one  of  the  best 
in  the  United  States,  comprising  the  most  complete 
skeleton  of  the  Mammoth  perhaps  in  the  world.  It  is 
perfect,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  bones,  which  have 


68  PHILADELPHIA. 

been  supplied  by  imitating  the  others.  This  skeleton 
was  found  in  Ulster  county,  New- York. 

The  ACADEMY  OF  ARTS,  in  Chesnut-street,  contains 
a  large  number  of  paintings,  several  of  which  are  the 
property  of  Joseph  Bonaparte.  Among  these  is  one 
executed  by  David,  representing  Napoleon  crossing  the 
Alps.  Another  is  a  full  length  portrait  of  Joseph  him 
self,  as  king  of  Spain. 

The  U.  S.  MINT,  established  here,  is  at  present  in  an 
ordinary  building  ;  though  a  new  and  handsome  edi 
fice  is  constructing  for  the  purpose. 

Of  the  public  works  of  Philadelphia,  there  is  none  of 
which  its  inhabitants  are  more  justly  proud  than  those 
at  Fair  Mount,  by  which  the  city  is  supplied  with  wa 
ter  of  the  best  quality,  in  the  greatest  plenty.  Fair 
Mount  is  in  the  rear  of  the  city  upon  the  bank  of  the 
Schuylkill,  the  neighborhood  of  which  affords  a  variety 
of  romantic  scenery.  The  situation  is  such  as  peculiar 
ly  adapts  it  for  the  purpose  to  which  it  has  been  devot 
ed.  The  reservoirs  are  situated  on  the  top  of  a  hill  ris 
ing  from  the  river,  a  part  of  it  perpendicular  rock,  up 
wards  of  one  hundred  feet.  The  ascent  from  the  river 
to  the  reservoirs  is  by  a  flight  of  substantial  wood 
en  steps,  with  resting  places,  over  one  of  which  is  a 
temple.  The  reservoirs,  which  are  surrounded  with 
a  pale  fence,  outside  of  which  is  a  gravelled  walk, 
contain  upwards  of  twelve  millions  of  gallons,  supply 
ing  the  city  through  between  15  and  20  miles  of 'pipes. 
The  water  was  formerly  forced  to  the  reservoirs  by 
steam,  which  is  no  longer  used  ;  it  is  now  raised  by 
machinery  propelled  by  the  Schuylkill.  The  machinery 
is  simple,  and  is  turned  by  large  water  wheels,  of  which 


PHILADELPHIA,  59 

there  are  five,  one  of  them  of  iron  of  24  tons  weight. 
Their  speed  may  be  graduated  to  any  required  number 
of  revolutions  per  minute  ;  and  if  all  are  in  motion,  they 
will  raise  seven  millions  of  gallons  'in  24  hours.  To 
turn  them,  the  Schuylkill  has  been  dammed  its  whole 
breadth,  by  which  the  water  is  thrown  back  into  a  res 
ervoir  lock,  whence  it  is  admitted  as  required  to  ope 
rate  upon  the  wheels,  and  is  discharged  into  the  river 
below  the  dam.  The  whole  expense  of  these  works, 
including  estimated  cost  of  works  abandoned,  was 
$1,783,000.  That  required  to  keep  them  in  operation 
is  comparatively  trifling.  The  quantity  of  water  thus 
disseminated  through  the  city,  is  not  only  sufficient  for 
every  family,  but  is  used  to  wash  the  streets.  It  is  of 
immense  service  in  case  of  fire,  as  it  is  only  necessary 
to  screw  the  hose  to  hydrants,  which  are  placed  at  con 
venient  distances,  to  secure  a  constant  stream  of  suffi 
cient  force  to  reach  an  ordinary  height. 

The  NAVY  YARD  (on  the  Delaware)  receives  the  vis 
its  of  strangers  more  particularly  in  consequence  of  the 
immense  vessel,  the  Pennsylvania,  there  erecting.  Her 
dimensions  are  198  feet  keel,  57  feet  beam,  arid  45  feet 
in  depth  from  the  upper  deck  to  the  keel.  She  has  four 
decks,  on  which  are  to  be  mounted  from  140  to  180 
guns,  manned  by  1200  men. 

The  NEW  PENITENTIARY,  located  on  elevated  ground 
near  the  city,  and  nearly  completed,  is  designed  to 
carry  the  principle  of  solitary  confinement  completely 
into  effect.  Ten  acres  of  land  are  occupied  for  the  pur 
pose,  forming  a  square  of  650  feet  each  way,  and  en 
closed  by  massy  walls  of  granite,  35  feet  high,  with 
towers  and  battlements.  The  prison  is  in  the  centre 


60  PHILADELPHIA. 

of  the  square,  and  is  admirably  calculated  for  the  pur 
poses  for  which  it  was  designed.  The  expense  already 
incurred  in  its  erection  is  $300,000. 

In  amount  of  shipping,  Philadelphia  occupies  the 
fourth  rank  in  the  U.  S. ;  and  three  lines  of  regular  and 
commodious  packets  now  run  between  the  city  and 
Liverpool. 

Its  principal  hotels  are,  the  U.  S.  Hotel,  in  Chesnut- 
street ;  the  Mansion  House,  in  3d  street ;  and  Judd's, 
in  2d  street,  between  Market  and  Chesnut ;  and  its 
principal  boarding  houses  are  Mrs.  Frazier's  in  Spen 
cer-street,  Mrs.  Sword's  in  Walnut,  and  Mrs.  Allen's 
in  6th  street,  near  the  State  House. 

The  banks  of  the  Schuylkill,  near  Philadelphia,  con 
tain  numerous  elegant  country  seats,  and  several  pub 
lic  buildings.  Among  the  private  residences,  none  are 
perhaps  more  justly  admired  than  that  of  Henry  Pratt, 
Esq.  on  Lemon  Hill.  The  mansion  house  is  situated 
on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  river,  and  directly  above  the 
Fair  Mount  Water  Works,  about  a  mile  from  the  city. 
Connected  with  the  mansion  are  gardens  of  the  most 
extensive  kind,  laid  out  in  a  style  of  much  elegance  and 
taste.  To  these  gardens,  respectable  citizens  and 
strangers  have  free  access  ;  and  a  ride  to  them  is  among 
the  various  pleasant  excursions  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
city. 

The  SHOT  TOWER  of  Mr.  Beck  is  also  an  object  of 
much  curiosity  to  strangers  visiting  Philadelphia.  It 
stands  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  in  the  rear  of 
the  city,  and  is  a  lofty  edifice,  from  the  top  of  which  a 
very  extensive  view  can  be  had  of  the  surrounding 
country. 


PENNSYLVANIA  CANALS.  61 

The  PHILADELPHIA  and  LIVERPOOL  PACKETS,  which 
are  handsomely  fitted  up,  sail  from  Philadelphia  on  the 
20th  and  from  Liverpool  on  the  8th  of  each  month. 
Price  of  passage  in  the  cabin,  £30  sterling,  and  in  the 
steerage,  $25,  including  accommodations. 

In  the  NEW  LINE  BY  WAT  OF  SAVANNAH,  the  packets 
sail  from  Philadelphia  the  20th  of  each  month. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  first  turnpike  in  America  was  made  in  Pennsyl 
vania  ;  and  the  state  at  this  time  contains  near  3QOO 
miles  of  turnpiked  roads,  at  a  cost  of  about  $8,000,000. 
Among  the  bridges  built  across  its  principal  rivers,  for 
ty  five  are  estimated  to  have  cost  $3,000,000 ;  and  more 
than  $10,000,000  have  been  expended  within  the  state 
on  canals. 

The  UNION  CANAL  was  commenced  about  40  years 
since,  by  a  private  company  ;  but  having  to  encounter 
the  expense  of  an  extensive  tunnel  at  the  summit,  of 
236  yards  in  length,  and  an  insufficiency  of  water  for 
the  western  section,  which  is  drawn  up  twenty  feet  by 
a  steam  engine,  it  was  partially  abandoned  ;  but  since 
the  completion  and  successful  operation  of  the  Erie  and 
Champlain  canals,  and  a  stimulus  having  been  produ 
ced  in  Pennsylvania,  this  canal  was  re-commenced  and 
completed,  and  is  in  successful  operation.  It  commen 
ces  near  Reading  on  the  Schuylkill  river,  51  miles  north 
west  of  Philadelphia,  and  extends  thence  in  a  westerly 
direction  to  Lebanon,  and  thence  along  the  Swatara 
creek  to  Middletown,  on  the  Susquehannah  river,  nine 
miles  below  Harrisbnrgh,  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
state. 


63  PENNSYLVANIA   CANALS. 

The  length  of  this  canal  is  79  miles ;  the  water  for 
the  principal  supply  of  the  eastern  section,  a  distance  of 
40  miles,  is  drawn  from  the  Tulpehockan  river,  a  branch 
of  the  Schuylkili.  The  lockage  on  this  section  is  276  1-2 
feet  in  53  locks :  the  locks  are  of  various  lifts,  and  cost 
$650  per  foot.  The  western  section  extends  39  miles, 
having  a  lockage  of  226  1-2  feet  in  37  locks,  besides  an 
expensive  tunnel. 

By  a  law  of  the  Pennsylvania  legislature,  charter 
ing  the  Union  Canal  Company,  passed  in  1826,  they 
were  prohibited  from  erecting  any  works  which  should 
prevent  the  descent  of  rafts  in  the  channel  of  the  Swa- 
tara.  This  provision  having  been  repealed  in  1829,  the 
company  subsequently  resolved  on  extending  the  canal 
to  a  point  at  or  near  the  village  of  Pine  Grove,  about 
four  miles  from  what  is  called  "  The  Coal  Region." 
From  the  basin  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  canal, 
it  is  contemplated  to  extend  rail  roads  along  the  valliea 
of  the  Swatara  and  its  various  branches,  which  inter 
sect  the  country  in  every  direction,  and  afford  ground 
admirably  adapted  for  their  construction.  Another 
opening  at  Fishing  creek,  near  the  termination  of  the 
great  reservoir,  is  said  to  possess  equal  advantages, 
both  as  respects  the  position  of  its  coal  and  the  facility 
of  access. 

These  mines,  it  is  supposed  by  competent  judges,  can 
be  wrought  as  easily  and  economically  as  those  of 
Mount  Carbon  ;  and  it  is  confidently  predicted,  that  at 
no  very  distant  day,  the  Swatara  coal  will  form  an  im 
portant  item  of  the  consumption  and  exportation  of  the 
city  of  Philadelphia. 


PENNSYLVANIA    CANALS.  63 

By  means  of  the  Union  Canal  and  the  Schuylkill 
slack  water  navigation,  there  is  a  communication  from 
Philadelphia  to  the  Susquehannah  river ;  and  this  com 
munication  is  to  be  greatly  extended  by  means  of  the 

PENNSYLVANIA  CANAL,  which  is  rapidly  progressing. 
This  canal  commences  at  Columbia,  80  miles  north 
west  of  Philadelphia,  and  unites  with  the  Union  Canal 
at  Middletown,  18  miles  farther.  From  thence  it  pro 
ceeds  in  a  westerly  direction  to  the  Juniata — thence  up 
that  river  to  the  foot  of  the  Allegany  mountains,  which 
are  to  be  crossed  by  a  rail  road,  40  miles  long  ;*  at  the 
en4  of  which  the  canal  re-commences,  uniting  with  the 
Allegany  and  Ohio  rivers  at  Pittsburgh.  The  whole 
length  of -this  canal,  including  the  rail  road  across  the 
mountains,  will  be  314  miles,  and  the  lockage  rising  of 
1100  feet.  At  its  eastern  termination,  a  rail  road  is  to 
be  constructed,  80  miles  long,  passing  through  the  city 
of  Lancaster,  to  Philadelphia.  When  this  canal,  with 
others  in  progress  in  Pennsylvania,  shall  have  been 
completed,  that  state  (in  the  language  of  her  canal  com 
missioners)  "  will  present  to  the  trade  of  the  western 
country  an  avenue  to  the  Atlantic  coast,  equal,  if  not 
superior,  to  any  which  has  been,  or  can  be  constructed. 
Besides,  her  own  manufactures  and  agricultural  pro 
ducts,  which  will  seek  a  market  through  the  canal,  are 
equal  in  amount  to  those  of  any  other  state,  independ 
ently  of  her  coal,  iron,  salt  and  lumber,  which  in  ton- 


*  Another  plan  proposed  is  to  pass  the  summit  by  a 
tunnel  of  one  mile  in  length,  and  overcoming  the  eleva 
tion  by  five  levels  on  each  side.  The  expense  is  es 
timated  at  a  little  short  of  $1,000,000, 


64  PENNSYLVANIA   CANALS. 

nage  must  exceed  all  other  articles  transported  to 
market" 

The  Pennsylvania  canal  will  ultimately  be  added  to 
the  list  of  interesting  routes  already  presented  to  trav 
ellers  visiting  the  middle  and  northern  states.  After 
reaching  the  Juniata,  a  singularly  romantic  and  beauti 
ful  stream,  the  canal  winds  along  a  gentle  and  practica 
ble  acclivity,  following  the  bed  of  the  river  for  nearly  a 
hundred  miles.  Two  mighty  ranges  of  mountains  rise 
from  the  limpid  Juniata,  like  two  green  leaves  of  an  im 
mense  opening  volume.  These  mountains,  apparently 
arranged  to  the  course  of  this  stream,  seem  to  lie  al 
most  at  right  angles  to  the  great  parallel  ridges.  The 
Juniata  finds  a  passage  by  a  very  equable  and  gentle 
declivity  through  all  the  mountains  except  the  last  ridgo 
that  parts  its  waters  from  those  of  the  Ohio.  More 
beautiful  forms  of  mountains  than  these  which  skirt  this 
river,  can  no  where  be  seen.  Sometimes,  for  many 
miles  together,  they  rise,  smooth,  verdant  and  unbrok 
en,  by  equable  slopes,  from  the  very  verge  of  the  stream 
to  the  height  of  twelve  hundred  feet ;  and  here,  appar 
ently,  when  the  fountains  of  the  great  deep  were  brok 
en  up,  the  rocky  summits  of  the  mountains  were  dis 
membered  at  the  same  time.  For  miles  together,  and 
in  many  places  the  whole  sides  of  the  grand  slope,  from 
summit  to  base,  are  strown  with  large  fragments  of 
smooth  building  stone;  and  it  is  inconceivable  how 
smoothly  and  completely  they  line  the  sides  of  these 
mighty  hills.  Layers  of  these  rocks  cover  thousands  of 
acres,  for  a  depth  apparently  of  forty  or  fifty  feet ;  and 
for  a  considerable  distance  the  road  is  formed  by  the  re 
moval  of  these  layers  along  the  roots  of  the  mountains, 


PENNSYLVANIA  CANALS.  65 

the  carriage  winding  its  way  many  hundred  feel  above 
the  canal,  which  is  perpendicularly  below. 

In  other  places,  more  recent  slides  of  the  earth  and 
rocks  from  the  summits  of  the  mountains  have  cut  away 
a  visible  and  uniform  path,  sweeping  trees  and  every 
obstacle  before  it,  until  the  spoils  are  accumulated  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountains.  Indeed,  every  foot  of  this 
route  of  a  hundred  miles  is  enriched  with  scenery  of 
unexampled  sublimity ;  and  we  can  imagine  no  higher 
treat  for  the  tourist  than  a  passage  along  its  banksr 
connected  with  the  crossing  of  the  Alleganies,  and  a 
trip  to  Pittsburgh. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  the  state  have  construct 
ed,  or  are  constructing,  a  canal  from  Middletown,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Union  Canal  with  the  Susquehannah,  to 
Muncy  Hills  upon  the  West  Branch  of  that  river,  90 
miles  in  length  ;  another  from  Northumberland,  at  the- 
junction  of  the  East  and  West  Branches  of  the  Susque 
hannah,  up  the  former  branch,  to  Nanticoke  falls,  55 
miles  ;  another  from  Bristol,  up  the  Delaware  river,  to 
Easton,  near  the  junction  of  the  Lehigh  and  Delaware, 
60  miles  ;*  and  another  from  French  creek  (a  navigable 


*  This  is  what  is  usually  called  the  Delaware  canal,, 
and  is  designed  to  be  completed  ultimately  from 
Philadelphia  to  Carpenter's  Point,  forming  a  junction 
with  the  Morris  and  Lehigh  canals  at  Easton,  and 
with  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  canal  at  Carpenter's 
Point,  the  boundary  line  between  Pennsylvania  and 
New- York.  [These  canals  are  noticed  in  the  subsequent 
pages  of  this  work.]  It  is  divided  into  three  sections  : 
the  lower  section  extends  from  Philadelphia  to  Bristol, 
distance  17  1-2  miles,  estimated  at  $11,474  per  mile, 


66  PENNSYLVANIA   CANALS. 

stream  which  rises  within  10  miles  of  Lake  Erie,  and 
joins  the  Allegany  80  miles  from  Pittsburgh)  to  Muddy 
run,  in  the  north  west  part  of  the  state,  19  1-2  miles. 
The  whole  extent  of  canals  placed  under  contract  by 
the  state  commissioners  in  1829,  was  428  1-2  miles  ;  of 
which  distance,  195  miles  were  then  navigable,  viz. 


which  is  $202,799.  The  middle  section  commences  at 
Bristol  and  extends  to  Easton,  distance  60  miles,  es* 
timated  cost  $11,443  per  mile,  which  is  $686,596.  Up 
per  section  from  Easton  to  Carpenter's  Point,  distance 
70  miles,  lockage  268  1-3  feet.  Estimated  by  the  com 
missioners  to  cost  $20,438  per  mile  ;  do.  by  H.  G. 
Sergeant,  civil  engineer,  at  $18,580,  which  is  $1,300,- 
608  34  :  whole  length  of  this  canal  147  1-2  miles,  cost 
$2,190,003  34.  This  canal,  when  connected  with  the 
Delaware  and  Hudson  canal,  and  the  Belmont  rail  road 
to  be  constructed  from  the  head  of  the  canal  at  Dyber- 
ry,  up  a  branch  of  the  Lackawaxen  and  down  the  Sta- 
rucca  to  Harmony,  will  open  a  communication  be 
tween  Philadelphia  and  the  Susquehannah  river,  dis 
tance  227  miles.  The  length  of  the  rail  road  will  be 
about  30  miles,  elevation  and  depression  about  1200 
feet.  The  location  is  favorable  for  a  rail  road,  as  there 
is  an  abundance  of  water  on  the  whole  route  to  operate 
the  necessary  stationary  engines  to  overcome  the  grav 
ity  by  inclined  planes. 

The  state  of  New- Jersey  also  contemplates  construct 
ing  a  canal  from  the  Rariton  river  in  that  state  to  the 
Delaware,  distance  40  miles  ;  and  an  arrangement  has 
been  made  by  commissioners  appointed  by  New-Jersey 
and  Pennsylvania,  by  which  each  state,  on  certain  con 
ditions,  shall  have  liberty  to  erect  dams  on  the  Dela 
ware  (which  forms  the  boundary  line  between  the  two 
states)  for  the  uses  of  the  respective  canals,  and  for  hy 
draulic  purposes. 


PENNSYLVANIA   CANALS.  67 

From  Pittsburgh  to  the  h  jad  of  the  dam  at  Blairsville, 
75  miles  ;  from  the  mouth  of  the  Juniata  to  Lewiston, 
45  miles  ;  from  Middletown  to  Clark's  Ferry,  24  miles  ; 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Juniata  to  Northumberland,  41 
miles  ;  and  on  the  French  creek  feeder,  10  miles.  A 
great  portion  of  the  remaining  233  1-4  miles  they  re 
ported  to  be  nearly  finished,  and  the  whole  in  a  state  of 
rapid  progress  to  the  completion. 

The  amount  then  expended  on  these  works  was  $6,- 
406,000  ;  the  debts  due,  $1,398,780  67 ;  and  the  estima 
ted  amount  of  labor  to  be  performed,  of  every  descrip 
tion,  $2,060,742  39— making  the  total  cost  $9,865,- 
533  06. 

Besides  these  canals,  are  the  following,  belonging  to 
incorporated  companies : 

The  SchuylJatt  Canal,  from  Philadelphia  up  the 
Schuylkill  river,  intersecting  the  Union  canal  at  Read 
ing,  to  the  Schuylkill  coal  mines  at  Mount  Carbon — 
lockage  588  feet — length  108  miles,  including  46  miles 
of  slack  water  on  the  river.  The  navigation  commen 
ced  in  1825,  when  the  tolls  received  by  the  company 
amounted  to  only  $15,775  ;  since  which  there  has  been 
a  great  annual  increase — the  tolls  in  1829  having 
amounted  to  $120,039. 

The  Lehigh  Cand,  from  Easton^  on  the  Delaware, 
up  the  Lehigh  river  to  the  coal  mines  at  Mauch  Chunk, 
and  from  thence  to  Stoddartsville.  Length  of  the  ca 
nal  46  miles,  lockage  35  feet,  slack  water  38  miles, 
whole  distance  84  miles. 


69  THE   COAL   MINES. 

THE  COAL  MINES. 

Since  the  discovery  and  opening  of  the  extensive 
coal  mines  in  Pennsylvania,  and  the  great  internal  im 
provements  which  have  been  made  in  the  state,  pro 
viding  an  easy  communication  to  them,  it  has  become 
almost  a  matter  of  course  to  embrace  them  within  the 
tour  of  the  middle  and  northern  states.  The  Lehigh 
and  Schuylkill,  the  principal  mines  already  explored, 
are  located  from  100  to  120  miles  in  a  north-easterly 
direction  from  Philadelphia,  between  a  chain  of  moun 
tains  denominated  the  Blue  Ridge  and  the  Susque- 
hannah  river.  The  anthracite  district  is  principally 
occupied  by  mountains  running  parallel  to  the  Blue 
Ridge,  often  broad  with  table  land  summits,  and  rising 
generally  about  1500  feet  above  the  ocean.  These 
summits,  by  repeated  fires,  have  been  principally  di 
vested  of  timber,  and  are  generally  too  stony  for  til 
lage.  The  beds  and  veins  of  anthracite  range  from 
north-east  to  south-west,  and  may  often  be  traced  for 
a  considerable  distance  by  the  compass  ;  but  they 
have  been  found  in  the  greatest  quantity  in  sections 
most  accessible  by  water.  Extensive  beds  and  veins 
range  from  the  Lehigh  to  the  Susquehannah,  crossing 
the  head  waters  of  the  Schuylkill  and  Swatara  about 
ten  miles  north-west  of  the  Blue  Ridge.  They  are  al 
so  found  contiguous  to  the  Susquehannah  and  Lacka- 
wanna.  But  in  no  part  of  the  district  does  the  anthra 
cite  exist  in  such  apparently  inexhaustible  beds  as  in 
the  vicinity  of  Mauch  Chunk,  a  village  situated  on  the 
Lehigh,  35  miles  from  Easton,  and  108  by  water  from 
Philadelphia.  The  coal  is  there  excavated  on  the  flat 


THE   COAL   MINES.  69 

summit  of  a  mountain  that  rises  near  1500  feet  above 
the  ocean.  It  is  disclosed  for  several  miles  on  the 
summit  wherever  excavations  have  been  made,  and  is 
indicated  in  many  places  by  coal  slate  in  a  pulverulent 
state,  on  the  surface.  The  mountain  rises  with  steep 
acclivity,  particularly  on  the  north-west  side,  and  when 
penetrated  at  various  altitudes,  discloses  coal  at  about 
the  same  distance  from  the  surface.  In  the  deep  exca 
vations  made  on  the  summit,  no  termination  of  the 
coal  has  been  found,  and  it  is  not  improbable  that  an 
thracite  forms  the  nucleus  of  the  mountain  for  a  con 
siderable  distance. 

The  coal  is  rendered  accessible  by  removing  from 
the  flat  summit  gravelly  loam,  which  is  from  a  few 
inches  to  four  feet  in  depth,  and  disintegrated  slate 
with  impure  coal,  from  two  to  four  feet.  The  coal 
rests  in  a  horizontal  position,  narrow  parallel  seams  of 
argillaceous  schist  intervening.  Strong  chalybeate 
springs,  holding  in  solution  sulphate  of  iron,  issue  from 
the  mountain's  side.  The  coal  excavation  on  the  sur 
face  is  extensive,  and  from  30  to  40  feet  deep,  forming 
a  hollow  squaio,  bounded  by  lofty  mural  precipices  of 
coal.  Waggons  are  admitted  by  avenues  that  serve  to 
discharge  water  from  the  mine. 

Next  to  Mauch  Chunk,  Mount  Carbon,  or  Pottsville, 
situated  at  the  head  of  the  Schuylkill  canal,  has  been 
the  principal  source  of  the  supply  of  anthracite.  Many 
large  veins  are  worked  within  three  miles  of  the  lan 
ding  ;  and  some  have  been  opened  seven  miles  to  the 
north-east  in  the  direction  of  the  Lehigh  beds.  The 
chief  veins  wrought  are,  one  situated  on  an  eminence 
adjacent  to  the  village ;  Bailey's  mine,  about  2  miles 


70  THE   COAL   MINES. 

from  Pottsville  and  near  the  turnpike  to  Limbnry,  and 
on  the  territory  of  the  New- York  Schuylldll  company 
about  3  miles  from  the  village.  On  almost  every  em 
inence  adjacent  to  Pottsville,  indications  of  coal  are  dis 
closed.  The  veins  generally  run  in  a  north-east  direc 
tion,  with  an  inclination  of  about  45  degrees,  and  are 
from  3  to  9  feet  in  thickness.  Commencing  at  or  near 
the  surface,  they  penetrate  to  an  unknown  depth,  and 
can  often  be  traced  on  hills  for  a  considerable  distance, 
by  sounding  in  a  north-east  or  south-west  direction. 
Some  veins  have  been  wrought  to  a  depth  of  200  feet 
without  a  necessity  of  draining,  the  inclined  slate  roof 
shielding  them  from  water.  Where  the  ground  admits, 
it  is  considered  the  best  mode  of  working  veins  to  com 
mence  at  the  back  of  a  coal  mine  eminence,  or  as  low 
as  possible,  and  work  up,  filling  the  excavation  with 
slate  and  fine  coal,  leaving  a  horizontal  passage  for  the 
coal  barrows.  A  section  of  a  wide  vein  near  Pottsville 
has  been  excavated  by  this  mode  several  hundred  feet 
into  the  hill. 

On  the  extensive  tract  occupied  by  the  New-York 
company,  five  miles  from  Pottsville,  there  are  also  in 
exhaustible  coal  beds,  in  the  excavating  of  which  from 
300  to  400  hands  are  employed. 

South-west  of  Pottsville  the  coal  becomes  more  easi 
ly  ignited,  and  that  at  Peter's  mountain,  a  few  miles 
east  of  Donville,  is  said  to  contain  bitumen.  It  is 
probable  that  the  coal  in  that  vicinity  embraces,  like 
tlyWilkesbarre,  much  more  inflammable  gas  than  the 
Lehigh,  which  may  have  led  to  the  supposition  that  it 
was  bituminous. 


THE    COAL   MINES.  71 

Anthracite  is  found  on  several  of  the  streams  that 
discharge  into  the  Susquehannah,  on  its  eastern  side. 
A  large  bed  exists  a  few  miles  easterly  from  Berwick, 
and  numerous  veins  occur  from  an  elevated  part  of  the 
Wilkesbarre  mountain,  to  the  Kingston  and  Shawnese 
mountains,  that  form  the  western  border  of  the  basin 
of  Wyoming.  Veins  of  coal  in  the  vale  of  the  lat 
ter,*  about  125  miles  north-west  of  Philadelphia,  are 
not  only  very  numerous,  occurring  on  almost  every 
farm,  but  many  are  of  uncommon  thickness.! 

Extensive  beds  of  coal  are  also  found  adjoining  the 
head  waters  of  the  Lycoming  creek  ;  and  a  Lycoming 
Coal  Company  has  already  been  chartered,  with  a  cap 
ital  of  $250,000.  This  coal  lies  in  horizontal  veins  ele 
vated  considerably  above  the  ordinary  level  of  the  ad 
jacent  country,  and  is,  of  course,  mined  with  much  less 
difficulty  than  in  many  other  districts.  The  state  ca 
nal  up  the  west  branch  of  the  Susquehannah  river  in 
tersects  with  the  Lycoming  creek,  to  the  mouth  of 


olution,  and  immortalized  in  song  by  the  beautiful  po 
em  of  Campbell.  The  village  of  Wilkesbarre,  on  the 
Susquehannah  river,  has  been  built  near  the  place  of 
this  massacre.  Solomon's  creek,  a  tributary  stream, 
and  which  unites  with  the  Susquehannah  in  this  valley, 
contains  two  very  romantic  falls,  a  short  distance  from 
Wilkesbarre. 

fFor  the  preceding  sketch  of  the  coal  region,  the 
editor  is  mostly  indebted  to  the  Journal  of  Science  and 
Arts,  an  invaluable  work,  published  at  New-Haven, 
Conn,  by  Professor  Silliman. 

F2 


7$  ROUTE  TO  THE  SCHUYLKILL  MINES. 

which,  the  company  are  authorized  to  construct  a  rail 
road,  20  miles  in  length.  When  completed,  they  will 
have  an  uninterrupted  rail  road  and  canal  communica 
tion  to  Philadelphia,  distant,  by  land  and  water,  260 
miles.  When  the  Columbia  and  Philadelphia  rail  road 
shall  have  been  completed,  this  distance  will  be  less 
ened  40  miles.  This  mine  is  advantageously  located 
for  supplying  the  city  of  New- York  and  the  south-wes 
tern  part  of  the  state,  and  will  doubtless  prove  of  great 
value  to  the  company. 

Route  to  the  Schuylkill  Coal  Mines,  by  canal. 
Boats  leave  Philadelphia  daily  for  Mount  Carbon, 
and  though  the  progress  by  canal  is  somewhat  tardy, 
the  tourist  will  nevertheless  find  himself  amply  com 
pensated  by  selecting  this  mode  of  conveyance,  in  the 
rich  and  diversified  scenery  which  awaits  him.  From 
Philadelphia  to  the  Fairmount  Dam,  the  Schuylkill  is 
lined  with  newly  erected  wharves  ;  and  every  thing  in 
dicates  the  great  advantages  which  are  daily  resulting 
to  a  numerous  population  from  the  internal  improve 
ments  of  the  state. 

MANAYUNK,  the  first  village  on  the  route,  worthy  of 
note,  was  commenced  in  1819 ;  since  which  it  has 
grown  with  much  rapidity,  and  contains  several  exten 
sive  manufactories  and  a  number  of  handsome  dwell 
ings.  Shortly  after  passing  Manayunk,  the  canal  en 
ters  a  basin  connected  with  the  river,  which  is  used  for 
boats  until  reaching  the 

PLYMOUTH  LOCKS,  where  the  canal  is  about  two 
thirds  of  a  mile  long  ;  when  it  again  enters  the  river. 


ROUTE  TO  THE  SCHUYLKILL  MINES.  73 

Near  these  locks  is  a  large  spring,  from  which  suffi 
cient  water  flows  to  turn  a  mill. 

NORRISTOWN,  16  miles  above  Philadelphia,  is  hand 
somely  located  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Schuylkill.  It 
is  the  capital  of  Montgomery  county,  and  contains  a 
number  of  elegant  dwellings.  It  was  formerly  the  res 
idence  of  the  celebrated  Doct.  Rittenhouse. 

POTTSTOWN,  or  POTTSGROVE,  18  miles  above  Norris- 
town,  is  a  pleasant  village  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
river. 

READING,  16  miles  farther,  and  51  from  Philadelphia, 
located  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  is  the  capital  of 
Berk's  county.  It  is  a  flourishing  town,  regularly  laid 
out,  and  is  inhabited  principally  by  Germans.  Its  pop 
ulation  is  between  4000  and  5000.  Near  this  place  the 
Union  Canal,  noticed  at  page  61,  commences.  Six 
miles  from  Reading  is  a  cutting  of  60  feet  in  depth 
through  a  solid  rock ;  the  contract  for  which  having 
been  taken  by  a  Mr.  Duncan,  the  spot  is  called  Dun 
can's  Job.  From  this  place  to  the  Blue  Ridge,  the  Scuyl- 
kill  winds  through  a  valley  in  which  there  is  consider 
able  limestone,  the  fissures  and  cavities  of  which  in 
some  places  rendered  the  formation  of  a  retentive  ca 
nal  difficult. 

HAMBURGH  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
15  miles  above  Reading,  near  the  Blue  Ridge.  It  is  a 
pleasant  and  thriving  village,  near  which  is  what  is 
called  the  Mountain  Dam,  27  feet  high.  The  passage 
of  the  Schuylkill  and  canal  through  the  Blue  Ridge  is 
interesting  and  romantic.  The  mountains  bordering 


74  MOUflT  CARBON. 

the  ravine  are  lofty  and  precipitous,  presenting  ledges 
of  old  and  red  sand  stone,  with  coarse  and  fine  silicious 
gray  wacke.  The  turnpike  winds  on  the  mountain 
side  at  a  great  elevation  above  the  stream,  giving  to  the 
traveller  a  sublime  and  varied  scenery.  The  naviga 
tion  through  the  pass,  or  what  is  called  the  Schuylkill 
Water  Gap,  is  effected  by  stone  dams  of  magnitude  and 
permanent  construction  ;  and  groups  of  locks,  water 
falls  and  broad  sheets  of  water  are  frequent. 

After  passing  the  Water  Gap,  the  next  object  of  at 
traction  is  the  Tunnel,  which  has  been  bored  through  a 
hill  375  yards  for  the  canal.  The  village  of  Orwisburgh 
is  3  miles  farther ;  from  which  to 

MOUNT  CARBON  or  POTTSVILLE  is  8  miles.  This 
place,  centrally  located  in  the  coal  region,  has  attained 
an  astonishing  growth  within  a  very  short  period.  In 
1824  it  was  a  wilderness  ;  in  1829  it  contained  223  ten 
ements,  and  a  population  of  2700  inhabitants.  It  also 
contains  a  printing-office,  from  which  a  well  conduct 
ed  weekly  journal  is  issued,  a  reading  room,  and  7  or  8 
large  public  houses,  which  are  constantly  crowded  with 
strangers.  The  town  is  destined  to  become  a  place  of 
great  business. 

The  coal  in  this  region  has  been  described  in  the  pre 
ceding  pages  of  this  work.  Besides  the  numerous  fa 
cilities  afforded  for  its  transportation  by  water,  several 
rail-roads  have  been  constructed,  or  are  rapidly  pro 
gressing  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Mount  Carbon. 
Among  these  are  the  Schuylkill  Valley  Rail  Road,  10 
miles  ;  the  Mount  Carbon,  8  miles  ;  the  Mill  Creek,  3 
miles  ;  the  West  Branch,  17  miles  j  and  the  Little 
Schuylkill,  22  miles — making  an  aggregate  of  61  miles. 


SCHUYLKILL  COAL  REGION.  75 

The  Mount  Carbon  rail-road,  which  is  nearly  com 
pleted,  commences  at  the  landing  on  the  Schuylkill, 
and  passes  through  Pottsville  up  to  the  heads  of  the 
Norwegian  creek.  From  its  commencement  to  its  ter 
mination,  there  is  not  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  which  it 
does  not  cross  one  or  more  veins  of  coal,  at  right  an 
gles.  The  whole  valley  watered  by  this  creek,  is  redo- 
lent  with  coal  of  the  finest  quality,  among  which  are 
the  extensive  veins  of  Messrs.  White,  Morris,  Nichols, 
Offerman,  Ridgeway,  Wetherill  and  the  North  Ameri 
can  and  New- York  Companies ;  the  Centre ville,  Peach 
Mountain,  Mulberry,  Flowery  Field  and  Mount  Laugh- 
fee  tracts  on  the  east ;  the  Maderia,  Mine  Hill,  and 
others  on  the  west. 

The  West  Branch  rail-road  commences  at  Schuylkill 
Haven,  and  extends  up  to  the  confluence  of  the  West 
and  west  West  Branches  of  the  Schuylkill,  from  whence 
branches  are  to  follow  the  direction  of  the  two  streams 
to  the  foot  of  the  Broad  Mountain,  making  a  distance, 
altogether,  of  about  17  miles. 

The  Little  Schuylkill  rail-road  extends  to  the  river  of 
that  name,  a  branch  of  the  principal  stream.  It  rises 
20  miles  north  east  of  the  Gap  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  the 
place  of  its  outlet. 

The  amount  of  coal  sent  down  the  Schuylkill  canal 
in  182S,  was  47,417  tons  ;  in  1829  the  quantity  was  in 
creased  to  78,783  tons  ;  and  notwithstanding  the  vast 
supplies  from  the  Lehigh  and  other  mines,  the  quanti 
ty  was  insufficient  for  the  demand.  It  is  supposed  that 
the  Schuylkili  canal  alone  is  capable  of  conveying  to 
market  from  350,000  to  400,000  tons  annually. 


76  SCHUTLKILL  COAL  REGION. 

Speaking  of  the  coal  region,  and  the  rapid  rise  of  vil 
lages  and  increase  of  population  in  its  vicinity,  the 
Pottsville  Journal  of  the  23d  of  January,  1830,  says : 
"  First  on  the  list  of  fame  and  improvement  is  Port  Car 
bon,  including  the  additions  of  Messrs.  Lawton,  Rhoads, 
Swift,  Pott  and  Patterson.  This  was  laid  out  about  a 
year  ago — it  has  now  about  sixty  or  seventy  buidings, 
which  will  be  more  than  doubled  next  season.  This 
place  will  in  the  spring  be  enlarged  by  an  addition  of 
Mr.  Coomb's,  which  is  now  being  laid  out  by  Mr.  John 
Smith,  jun.,  surveyor,  on  the  south  side  of  Schuylkill, 
between  the  upper  landings  and  the  first  lock.  This 
will  contribute  much  to  the  facilities  of  the  place,  as  it 
will  include  some  fine  landings,  and  a  spacious  basin 
will  also  be  erected. 

"  Pursuing  our  course  up  the  route  of  the  Valley  Rail 
Road,  we  next  come  to  Tuscarora,  Middleport,  Patter 
son,  New  Philadelphia,  and  Tuscarora  again.  The 
three  former  places  are  at  the  intersection  of  the  large 
lateral  road  which  leads  up  the  creek  tributary  to  the 
river — the  latter  is  at  the  head  of  the  main  rail-road, 
built  by  Messrs.  Lyons  and  Lawton. 

"  Up  the  Mill  Creek  Rail  Road,  about  two  miles,  we 
have  St.  Clairsville,  and  at  its  head  New  Castle,  where 
the  road  from  Port  Carbon  intersects  the  Centre  Turn 
pike.  Both  those  places  have  extensive  water  powers, 
and  are  admirably  located  for  mills,  &c. 

"  At  the  junction  of  the  West  Branch  of  the  Schuylkill 
with  the  main  river,  Schuylkill  Haven  is  a  beautifully 
situated  place,  which  will  be  the  mart  of  all  the  im 
mense  coal  region  of  the  West  and  west  West  Branch 
es  ;  this  location  is  destined  to  be  the  focus  of  an  ex- 


ROUTE  TO  THE  LEHIGH  COAL  MINES.  77 

tensive  business.  Minersville  is  another  site  on  the 
same  branch,  nearly  west  of  our  place,  (Pottsville.) 
This,  from  its  situation  among  extensive  collieries,  will 
soon  become  a  populous  place,  as  the  residence  of  those 
engaged  in  the  coal  business.  Further  up,  on  the  Broad 
Mountain,  is  Carbondale,  which  also  promises  to  be  a 
place  of  some  importance.  These  are  our  principal  lo 
cations — many  of  them  must  become  places  of  consid 
erable  importance.  The  immense  accumulation  of  min 
ing  population,  as  well  as  others  not  directly  engaged 
in  the  coal  business,  renders  it  necessary  that  they 
should  congregate  in  the  most  favorable  situations  for 
the  conveniences  of  society." 

Route  to  the  Lehigh  Coal  Mines. 
From  Orwisburgh,  a  stage  can  be  taken  to  Mauch 
Chunk,  at  the  Lehigh  coal  mines,  a  distance  of  15 
miles  in  a  north-eastwardly  direction.  This  route  is 
recommended  to  travellers  from  the  south,  designing  a 
general  visit  to  the  coal  region.  From  the  north,  the 
most  direct  route  is,  to  pursue  the  line  of  the  Morris 
canal  from  Newark,  N.  Jersey,  to  Easton,  or  the  route 
from  New- York  to  Schooley's  Mountain,  and  from 
thence  to  Easton,  proceeding  up  the  Lehigh  to  Mauch 
Chunk.  A  very  common  route  from  Philadelphia  to 
the  Lehigh  is  by  steam-boat  to  Bristol,  20  miles  up  the 
Delaware,  and  from  thence  by  stage  through  Newton 
and  New-Hope  to  Easton,  50  miles  farther.  This  route 
is  mostly  on  the  bank  of  the  Delaware,  and  passes 
through  a  pleasant  section  of  the  country,  affording  a 
rich  and  diversified  scenery. 


78  MAUCH  CHUNK. 

MAUCH  CHUNK. 

The  village  of  Mauch  Chunk  is  situated  on  the  west 
ern  bank  of  the  Lehigh,  in  a  deep  romantic  ravine,  be 
tween  rocky  mountains  that  rise  in  some  parts  precipi 
tously  to  800  or  1000  feet  above  the  stream.  Space  was 
procured  for  dwellings  by  beaking  down  the  adjacent 
rocks,  and  by  filling  a  part  of  the  ravine  of  the  Mauch 
Chunk  creek.  A  portion  of  this  stream  has  been  trans 
ferred  to  an  elevated  rail-way,  and  is  used  to  propel  a 
grist  mill.  The  village  contains  about  150  dwellings, 
belonging  principally  to  the  Lehigh  Company,  who 
have  between  800  and  1000  men  in  their  employ, 
Mauch  Chunk  seems  by  nature  designed  for  a  place  of 
business,  but  as  there  is  not  sufficient  room,  owing  to 
the  approach  of  the  mountains  to  the  Lehigh,  for  a 
town  of  much  size,  the  business  of  the  place  will  most 
likely  be  confined  pretty  much  to  the  shipment  of  coal. 

THE  MAUCH  CHUNK  RAIL-ROAD  leads  from  near  the 
coal  mines  on  the  mountain  down  an  inclined  plane  to 
the  Lehigh  river.  It  is  eight  miles  long,  and  has  been 
in  operation  3  or  4  years.  The  sleepers  on  which  the 
rails  rest,  as  well  as  the  rails,  are  of  wood  ;  the  latter 
plated  with  iron.  Experiments  have  been  made  as  to 
the  velocity  that  might  be  obtained  for  the  cars  loaded 
with  coal  and  the  horses  and  mules  to  draw  them  back 
to  the  summit  when  the  coal  had  been  discharged  ;  and 
it  has  been  found,  that  though  the  speed  of  the  cars 
might  be  increased  to  thirty  or  forty  miles  an  hour  with 
safety,  yet  the  beasts,  as  well  as  the  men  who  guided 
the  cars,  became  in  a  few  days  sickly,  on  account  of 


LEHIGH  RIVER.  79 

the  rapid  and  confused  appearance  of  objects  as  they 
were  passed  on  the  way.  The  directors  of  the  com 
pany  have  therefore  been  compelled  to  limit  the  veloci 
ty  of  the  cars  to  14  miles  an  hour  in  their  descent,  to 
obviate  the  disagreeable  consequences  of  the  more  rap 
id  motion.  Pleasure  carriages  sometimes  go  up  this 
rail-way  with  strangers  ;  but  the  more  common  prac 
tice  is  to  go  up  in  the  returning  cars.  The  road  gen 
erally  passes  along  a  narrow  shelf,  with  precipices  on 
its  side  not  unfrequently  of  from  300  to  600  feet.  At 
the  end  of  the  rail-road,  the  cars  are  let  down  to  the 
river  on  an  inclined  plane  of  700  feet,  equal  to  a  perpen 
dicular  descent  of  200  feet. 

A  tunnel,  12  feet  high,  20  wide  and  nearly  800  long, 
was  cut  through  the  mountain  by  the  company  in  1826, 
for  the  purpose  of  shortening  the  passage  to  a  bed  of 
coal  supposed  to  lie  on  the  other  side.  This  labor  was 
lost,  as  no  coal  was  found  in  the  direction  of  the  tunnel. 
The  beds  belonging  to  the  company,  however,  are  in 
exhaustible  in  other  directions. 

The  LEHIGH  CANAL  was  noticed  at  page  67.  The 
LEHIGH  RIVER  is  a  copious  rapid  stream,  and  rises  by 
various  mountain  branches  forty  miles  north-west  of 
Mauch  Chunk,  which  unite  below  Stoddartsville,  (to 
which  place  it  is  designed  to  extend  the  navigation,)  25 
miles  above  Mauch  Chunk.  The  fall  of  the  river  be 
tween  these  two  places  is  845  feet.  Eleven  miles  be 
low  Mauch  Chunk,  it  passes  through  the  Kittatinny 
range  of  mountains,  and  in  the  intermediate  space  falls 
245  feet.  From  the  Lehigh  Water  Gap,  or  passage  thro' 
the  Kittatinny,  to  its  junction  with  the  Delaware  at 


80 


LANDING — LEH1GHTON. 


Eastoa,  35  miles,  it  falls  205  feet  j  making  the  entire 
fall  from  Stoddartsville  1210  feet.  To  overcome  the 
descent  from  Mauch  Chunk  to  Easton,  21  dams  and 
52  locks  have  been  found  necessary.  They  are  located 
at  the  head  of  rapids,  enabling  the  navigator  to  com 
mand  an  artificial  freshet,  when  the  stream  from  its 
dispersion  would  not  otherwise  admit  of  the  passage  of 
boats.  Water  from  the  dam  is  copiously  admitted  in 
to  a  rail-  way  that  extends  to  the  foot  of  the  rapid.  The 
gates  are  attached  by  hinges  to  the  bottom  of  the  lock, 
and  rise  by  the  force  of  water  admitted  from  a  floom, 
constructed  parallel  with  the  lock,  and  remain  suspend 
ed,  forming  a  section  of  the  dam.  If  the  gate  of  the 
floom  is  closed,  the  water  between  the  gates  passes  off) 
and  they  fall  by  their  own  weight  and  the  pressure  of 
the  water  from  the  dam. 

The  LANDING,  or  Lausanne,  above  Mauch  Chunk, 
from  its  location  at  the  head  of  the  navigation,  and 
at  the  commencement  of  the  turnpike  road  leading 
to  the  Susquehannah,  will  in  a  short  time  become 
a  place  of  deposit  for  merchandize  and  produce,  destin 
ed  to  and  from  the  upper  country*  The  Nesquehoning 
creek  here  empties  into  the  Lehigh,  and  will  tend  much 
to  bring  the  town  forward  and  render  it  a  place  of  bu 
siness,  as  from  the  extensive  water  power  which  this 
stream  affords,  manufactories  can  be  established  at  com 
paratively  a  very  small  expense.  Eight  miles  below 
Mauch  Chunk  is  the  pleasant  village  of 


The  ground  plot  of  the  town  is  laid  out 
upon  an  elevated  piece  of  table  land,  and  the  lots  are 
sufficiently  large  to  afford  an  extensive  garden  and  yard 


LEEJGH  WATER  GAP — BETHLEHEM.  81 

to  each  dwelling.  The  village  commands  a  prospoct 
of  the  river  and  canal ;  the  valley  in  which  the  town 
of  Weiss  Port  is  located  j  the  Blue  Mountain  in  tho 
distance,  and  a  nearer  view  of  the  Mahoning  mountain 
and  the  Lehigh  hills.  The  Mahoning  creek  flows  at 
the  foot  of  the  Mahoning  mountain,  and  empties  into 
the  Lehigh  within  half  a  mile  of  the  village,  where  has 
been  discovered  a  mineral  spring,  the  waters  of  which 
have  proved  highly  beneficial  in  many  cases  of  disease 
and  debility. 

Tho  LEHIGH  WATER  GAP  is  3  miles  farther.  The 
river  is  here  confined  within  very  narrow  limits,  being 
bounded  on  either  side  with  the  bold  and  precipitous 
Kittatinny  mountains.  The  scenery  is  in  a  high  de 
gree  wild,  picturesque  and  frequently  sublime.  Bo- 
low  the  mountains  the  features  of  nature  are  less 
magnificent,  but  still  follow  in  a  romantic  succession 
of  strongly  contrasted  and  elegant  landscapes. 

BETHLEHEM  is  1 1  miles  from  the  Water  Gap.  It  is  a 
settlement  of  the  Moravians,  or  United  Brethren.  The 
situation  is  healthful  and  pleasant,  and  it  is  a  place  much 
resorted  to  in  the  summer  months.  The  church  belong 
ing  to  the  society,  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  state, 
though,  exhibiting  in  its  structure  much  plainness. 
From  its  steeple,  a  very  beautiful,  picturesque  and  ex 
tended  view  can  bo  obtained.  In  one  direction  the 
scene  stretches  for  upwards  of  20  miles  along  the  course 
of  the  Lehigh  and  the  Water  Gap,  tho  wandering  ex 
plorations  of  the  eye  terminating  at  the  Blue  Mountain 
range. 


82  EASTON. 

When  a  death  occurs,  a  part  of  the  choir  ascend  the 
steeple,  where  a  requiem  or  funeral  hymn  is  sung  for 
their  departed  brother  or  sister.  The  body  is  subse 
quently  placed  in  what  is  termed  the  "  corpse  house,"  a 
building  detached  from  all  others,  where  it  remains 
three  days,  typical  of  the  death  and  burial  of  the  Sav 
iour,  and  then  is  interred  in  the  church  yard.  This  is  di 
vided  into  various  departments  and  methodically  arran 
ged,  though  with  much  plainness  and  simplicity. 

The  society  take  charge  of  their  own  poor,  of  which, 
however,  there  are  very  few  ;  a  strong  argument  in  fa 
vor  of  their  regulations. 

The  town  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  Monockosy 
creek.  The  works  are  said  to  be  the  oldest  in  the 
state,  having  been  in  operation  more  than  eighty  years. 
Those  at  Fairmount,  Philadelphia,  are  constructed  upon 
similar  principles.  The  house  where  Gen.  La  Fayette 
lay  during  his  recovery  from  the  wound  he  received  at 
the  battle  of  Brandywine,  is  pointed  out  here.  His 
nurse  on  that  occasion  has  continued  to  reside  in  the 
place  ever  since,  and  received  a  visit  from  him  when  he 
was  last  in  this  country. 

EASTON  is  12  miles  from  Bethlehem,  and  is  the  capi 
tal  of  Northampton  county,  Penn.  It  is  located  on  the 
Delaware  river,  immediately  above  the  entrance  of  the 
Lehigh,  in  a  valley  between  the  Musconetcunk  moun 
tains.  Several  rude  and  isolated  hills  stand  in  the  val 
ley,  commanding  extensive  views  and  giving  to  the 
place  a  picturesque  appearance.  The  town  is  tasteful 
ly  laid  out,  with  an  open  square  in  the  centre,  and  con 
tains  several  handsome  dwellings.  Its  public  buildings 


MORRIS   CANAL. 

are  a  court  house,  jail,  poor  house,  3  churches,  a  bank 
and  an  academy.  A  bridge  extending  across  the  Dela 
ware  at  this  place  cost  $60,000.  There  is  also  a  chain 
bridge  across  the  Lehigh. 

The  location  of  Easton  is  highly  favorable  for  trade ; 
and  it  will  ultimately  become  one  of  the  most  important 
towns  in  the  state.  Besides  the  great  advantages  here 
possessed  for  manufacturing  purposes,  and  the  contigu 
ity  of  the  place  to  the  Delaware  and  Lehigh  rivers,  it  is 
the  point  at  which  three  important  canals,  the  Dela 
ware,  the  Lehigh  and  the  Morris,  when  completed,  will 
concentrate.  The  two  first  have  been  already  noticed. 
(See  pages  65  and  67.) 

The  MORRIS  CANAL  extends  from  Easton  to  Newark, 
N.  Jersey,  a  distance  of  86  miles,  and  from  thence  to 
Powle's  Hook,  opposite  New- York,  8  miles  further, 
lockage  1600  feet,  which  is  to  be  surmounted  by  inclin 
ed  planes.  The  eastern  section  of  this  canal  was  com 
pleted  in  1829.  From  Newark  to  Patterson,  the  coun 
try  through  which  the  canal  passes  is  beautiful.  At  the 
latter  place,  a  view  of  the  extensive  manufactories  is 
had,  located  on  the  north.  On  the  south,  the  canal  for 
some  distance  is  bounded  by  mountainous  rugged  cliffs, 
the  rocky  excavations  through  which  were  attended 
with  great  labor  and  expense.  Four  miles  above  Pat 
terson  is  what  is  called  the  Grand  Aqueduct  across  the 
Passaic  river  at  the  Little  Falls.  This  aqueduct  may 
justly  be  ranked,  for  its  admirable  construction,  work 
manship,  space  of  the  arch  and  elevation,  with  the 
greatest  objects  of  curiosity  in  artificial  navigation,  and 
altogether  may  be  considered  superior  to  any  thing  of 


84  ROUTES   FROM    EASTON. 

the  kind  in  this  country.  Half  a  mile  further  is  an 
aqueduct  across  the  Pompton  river,  a  work  of  consid 
erable  magnitude.  The  whole  route,  indeed,  from 
Newark  to  Easton  is  interesting  ;  and  when  the  canal 
is  completed,  which  is  contemplated  the  present  season 
(1830)  it  will  not  only  greatly  lessen  the  price  of  Lehigh 
coal  at  New- York,  but  will  be  frequently  used  by  stran 
gers  as  the  travelling  route  between  the  coal  region 
and  that  city. 

From  Easton  to  the  Delaware  Water  Gap,  the  distance 
is  23  miles.  The  route  proceeds  up  the  river  to  Rich 
mond,  14  miles  ;  from  thence  to  Williamsburgh,  4 
miles ;  and  from  the  latter  place  to  the  Water  Gap,  5 
miles.  The  current  of  the  stream  is  here  contracted  at 
the  base  of  two  lofty  mountains  in  opposite  directions, 
between  which  the  passage  is  extremely  narrow.  It  is 
supposed  that  here  was  formerly  a  barrier  over  which 
the  river  flowed  in  the  form  of  a  cataract,  which  was 
subsequently  worn  away,  leaving  a  smooth  unruffled 
current.  The  scene  is  wild  and  highly  interesting. 

From  Easton  to  the  Delaware  Wind  Gap,  an  important 
passage  through  the  Blue  Mountains,  is  12  miles,  in  a 
northwardly  direction. 

From  Easton  to  Schoohfs  Mountain,  and  thence  to  Aetc- 
York,  the  whole  distance  is  71  miles,  as  follows  : 

Miles.  | 
From  Easton  to  Phil- 

ipsburgh, 1 

Top  of  Schooly's 

Mountain, 24 

Mendham. 12 


Morristown, 6 

Passaic  river,. .......     7 

Newark, 11 

New- York, 10 


FROM   PHILADELPHIA   TO   NEW-YORK.  85 

SCHOOLT'S  MOUNTAIN,  in  New-Jersey,  is  a  place  of 
fashionable  resort  from  New-York,  in  the  summer 
months,  owing  to  its  cool,  airy  and  healthful  situation, 
and  to  the  extensive  prospect  afforded  from  its  top  ;  on 
which  there  is  an  excellent  public  house.  Within  a 
mile  of  its  summit  there  are  mineral  springs,  which 
are  usually  resorted  to  by  visitants  at  the  mountain 
house. 

NEWARK,  N.  J.  which  is  located  on  the  route,  and 
which  is  within  10  miles  of  that  city,  is  one  of  the  most 
elegant  villages  in  the  union.  It  is  situated  near  the 
west  bank  of  the  Passaic  river,  3  miles  from  its  mouth, 
and  is  laid  out  in  regular  streets,  the  principal  being 
200  feet  wide.  The  public  square,  near  the  centre,  is 
very  handsome,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  number  of  ele 
gant  private  dwellings.  The  public  buildings  in  the 
place  are  a  court  house,  jail,  two  banks,  an  academy  and 
six  churches.  The  population  is  between  6000  and 
7000. 

Having  thus  far  diverged  from  the  usual  route  to  the 
north,  for  the  purpose  of  describing  the  coal  region,  and 
the  most  interesting  natural  and  artificial  objects  con 
nected  therewith,  we  return  to  Philadelphia,  to  resume 
the  regular  excursion. 

FROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO  NEW-YORK. 

The  routes  and  modes  of  conveyance  being  various, 
we  give  a  sketch  of  each,  that  the  traveller  may  make 
such  selection  as  shall  be  most  agreeable. 

BY  LAND  AND  WATER. 

VARIETY  1.  By  the  Trenton  and  New-Brunswicl 
steam-boat  line, — A  steam-boat  is  taken  at  Philadelphia 


86  FROM   PHILADELPHIA   TO   NEW-YORK. 

at  6  A.  M.  which  proceeds  up  the  Delaware,  touching 
at  Burlington,  N.  J.  distant  18  miles,  Bristol  1  mile, 
Bordentown  9  miles,  to  Trenton  5  miles  farther.  Here 
a  stage  is  taken  for  New-Brunswick,  N.  J.  26  miles 
from  Trenton,  the  route  passing  through  Lawrenceville 
6  miles,  Princeton  4  miles,  Kingston  2  miles,  from 
whence  to  New-Brunswick  is  14  miles.  A  steam-boat 
is  again  taken,  which  touches  at  Amboy  13  miles,  Eliz- 
abethtown  Point  12  miles,  from  whence  to  New- York 
is  10  miles.  The  whole  distance  on  this  route  is  94 
miles,  and  the  boats  run  daily,  starting  from  each  city 
at  the  same  hour  in  the  morning. 

VARIETY  2.  By  Bordentown  and  South-Amboy. — Boats 
leave  at  6  A.  M.  and  land  passengers  at  Bordentown, 
28  miles  distant,  from  whence  a  stage  is  taken,  passing 
through  Cranberry  15,  Spottiswood  10,  South-Amboy 
8,  to  North- Amboy  2  miles.  A  steam-boat  is  here  tak 
en,  which  passes  Elizabethtown  Point  as  before.  The 
whole  distance  on  this  route  is  85  miles,  and  is  per 
formed  between  the  two  cities  by  day-light. 

VARIETY  3.  By  Staten  Island. — The  route  is  the  same 
as  that  mentioned  in  Variety  1  to  New-Brunswick  j 
from  whence  a  steam-boat  is  taken,  passing  Wood- 
bridge  10,  Staten  Island  Sound  (new  ferry)  4,  Castle- 
ton  7,  Lazaretto  1,  to  New- York  5  miles.  Whole  dis 
tance  84  miles.  The  view  afforded  of  Staten  Island 
and  its  scenery  on  this  route  is  unusually  fine  and  in 
teresting. 


NEW- JERSEY. 


87 


LAND  ROUTE — 94  miles. 


Miles. 
From  Philadelphia  to 

Rising  Sun, 4 

Milestown, 3 

Tacony  creek, 2 

Jenkintown, 2 

Abington, 1 

Wiliowgrove, 2 

Hatborough, 2 

Cross  Roads, 4 

Neshaminy  Bridge, . .  3 

Greenville, 5 

Great  Spring, 3 

New  Hope, 2 


Miles. 

Cross  the  Delaware  to 

Lambertsville,  N.J.  1 

New  Meeting, 3 

OldRingos, 3 

Rariton  Bridge, 14 

Somerville, 4 

Roundbrook, 4 

Plainfield, 6 

Scotch  Plains, 3 

Springfield, 6 

Camptown, 4 

Newark, 3 


New- York, 10 

This  route  may  be  varied  so  as  to  pass  through  New- 
Brunswick  ;  or  it  may  be  continued  up  the  Pennsylva 
nia  side  to  Easton,  and  from  thence  by  Schooly'8 
Mountain  to  New- York.  (See  p.  84.) 

The  prices  of  fare  from  Philadelphia  to  New- York 
vary  from  $2  to  $3.50,  and  the  route  is  usually  per 
formed  in  12  hours. 

THE  STATE  OF  NEW-JERSEY, 

Through  which  the  route  extends,  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  New- York ;  east  by  New- York  and  the  At 
lantic  ocean ;  south-west  by  the  Delaware  Bay,  which 
divides  it  from  Delaware;  and  west  by  Pennsylvania. 
The  south-east  part  of  the  state  is  low  and  sandy  ;  the 
middle  part  abounds  with  hills,  and  in  the  upper  part 
there  is  a  continuation  of  the  Blue  Ridge  and  South 
Mountains  commencing  in  Pennsylvania.  On  the  lat 
ter  chain  is  Schooly's  Mountain,  noticed  at  page  85. 
The  principal  towns  through  which  the  traveller  gen- 


88  BURLINGTON — TRENTON. 

erally  passes    are  Burlington,    Bristol,  Bordentown, 
Trenton,  Princeton  and  New-Brunswick. 

BURLINGTON  is  the  capital  of  the  county  of  the  same 
name,  is  12  miles  below  Trenton  and  18  above  Phil 
adelphia.  It  is  delightfully  situated,  and  contains  some 
handsome  public  and  private  houses. 

BRISTOL  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Delaware,  19 
miles  from  Philadelphia,  in  Bucks  county,  Pennsylva 
nia.  This  place  contains  several  fine  residences,  and  is 
an  attractive  and  interesting  country  village.  Some  of 
its  flower  gardens,  which  are  unusually  elegant,  and 
located  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  add  much  to  the 
beauty  of  its  appearance. 

BORDENTOWN,  24  miles  from  Philadelphia,  and  6  be 
low  Trenton,  is  noted  as  the  residence  of  the  Count  de 
Survilliers,  the  ex-king  of  Spain,  whose  elegant  mansion 
was  within  a  few  years  burnt  by  accident,  but  is  now 
rebuilt  with  additional  embellishment'  and  magnifi 
cence.  His  villa  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  river. 
The  soil  around  it  is  unproductive ;  but  by  the  aid  of 
culture  and  art,  his  residence  now  exhibits  an  appear 
ance  of  taste  and  munificence  worthy  the  princely  for- 
ture  and  dignity  of  its  proprietor.  From  Bordentown 
a  stage  route  is  established  to  South-Amboy..  (See 
p.  86.) 

TRENTON,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  New- Jersey,  is 
situated  on  the  Delaware  river,  30  milss  from  Philadel 
phia.  It  contains  about  4000  inhabitants,  a  state  house, 
two  banks,  and  six  houses  of  public  worship.  At  Tren- 


PRINCETON.  89 

ton  the  steam- boat  navigation  on  the  Delaware  ter 
minates.  The  river  here  forms  a  considerable  rapid  or 
falls,  near  which  is  an  elevated  bridge,  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  long,  neatly  roofed,  and  the  sides  enclosed  to 
secure  it  from  the  weather.  The  distance  between 
Trenton  and  New-Brunswick  is  passed  by  an  excel 
lent  line  of  post-coaches,  which  leave  the  former  place 
immediately  on  the  arrival  of  the  boat.  This  route  af 
fords  the  traveller  a  fine  view  of  the  most  fertile  section 
of  the  state;  and,  making  all  allowances  for  roads, 
which  are  ordrnary,  it  is,  in  other  respects,  by  no  means 
devoid  of  interest. 

This  section  of  New-Jersey  is  full  of  interest,  Some 
of  the  most  important  scenes  of  the  revolution,  and 
those  which  gave  a  point  and  character  to  the  Amer 
ican  war,  here  transpired  at  the  most  gloomy  period  of 
that  contest.  It  was  for  a  length  of  time  in  the  pos 
session  of  the  English,  and  was  the  theatre  of  much 
carnage  and  bloodshed.  The  capture  of  a  detachment 
of  English  and  German  troops  in  December,  1776,  at 
Trenton,  was  the  first  signal  victory  that  crowned  our 
arms  in  the  revolutionary  contest.  It  cheered  the  droop 
ing  and  depressed  spirits  of  our  little  army,  and  impart 
ed  new  vigor  to  the  cause  of  liberty.  The  retreat  of 
Washington  with  his  troops,  from  Trenton,  considering 
the  circumstances  which  surrounded  him,  and  the  se 
crecy  with  which  it  was  accomplished,  may  be  justly 
contemplated  as  one  of  the  most  successful  movements 
of  that  eventful  period. 

PRINCETON  is  located  on  an  elevated  piece  of  land  10 
miles  from  Trenton,  16  from  New-Brunswick,  40  from 


90  STATEN   ISLAND. 

Philadelphia,  and  50  from  New-Xork.  It  overlooks 
an  extensive  prospect,  and  is  a  very  handsome  village. 
It  contains  a  college,  theological  seminary,  a  presbyte- 
rian  church,  and  about  100  dwelling  houses.  The  col 
lege  of  New-Jersey  was  founded  in  1738.  It  has  a 
president,  3  professors,  and  2  tutors. 

The  theological  seminary  was  established  in  1812, 
by  the  general  assembly  of  the  presbyterian  church. 
It  has  3  professors,  a  respectable  library,  and  upwarsds 
of  100  students. 

In  the  college  yard  are  the  remains  of  the  presidents 
of  the  institution,  Burr,  Edwards,  Davis,  Finley,  With* 
erspoon  and  Smith. 

NEW-BRUNSWICK  is  the  starting  place  for  the  New- 
York  steamboats.  In  this  village  is  the  theological 
seminary,  under  the  direction  of  the  synod  of  the  Dutch 
reformed  church.  The  village  also  contains  a  court 
house,  gaol,  a  college  edifice,  and  five  churches. 

PERTH  AMBOY  is  13  miles  from  New-Brunswick,  35 
south-west  of  New- York,  and  74  north-east  of  Phil 
adelphia.  Its  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  conti 
nent,  and  its  shipping  in  1816  amounted  to  10,899  tons. 

ELIZABETH-TOWN,  12  miles  in  a  south-westwardly  di 
rection  from  New- York,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a 
creek  emptying  itself  into  Staten  Island  Sound.  A 
steamboat  plies  between  the  point  and  New- York. 

STATEN  ISLAND,  constituting  the  county  of  Rich 
mond,  is  14  miles  long  and  8  wide.  It  was  the  resi 
dence  of  the  late  vice-president  Tompkins,  and  con 
tains  several  delightful  country  seats. 


NEW-YORK.  01 

On  approaching  New- York,  the  most  prominent  ob 
jects  that  meet  the  eye,  are  Fort  La  Fayette,  Castle 
Williams,  the  lofty  spires  of  Trinity  and  St.  Paul's 
churches,  and  the  Catholic  cathedral. 

NEW-YORK. 

This  city  is  situated  on  the  point  of  York  Island,  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Hudson  and  East  rivers,  in  lati 
tude  40.  It  was  founded  by  the  Dutch,  in  1615,  under 
the  name  of  New-Amsterdam,  and  was  incorporated  by 
the  British  in  1696.  The  island  on  which  it  stands  is 
15  miles  long,  and  from  1  to  3  miles  broad.  The  city 
is  situated  on  the  south  part  of  the  island,  and  extends 
along  the  Hudson  about  2  miles,  and  from  the  Battery 
along  East  river  nearly  4  miles.  The  early  settlements 
were  commenced  at  and  near  the  Battery,  from  which 
streets  were  extended  without  reference  to  order  or 
regularity  ;  and  this  accounts  for  the  seeming  want  of 
taste  in  laying  out  the  streets  towards  the  docks  and 
harbor. 

The  BATTERY  is  situated  at  the  south-west  point  of 
the  city,  opposite  to  Governor's  island.  It  is  hand 
somely  laid  out  into  gravel  walks,  and  tastefully  deco 
rated  with  shrubbery  and  trees.  It  is  much  frequent 
ed  by  the  citizens  in  the  warm  season,  as  well  for  the 
purpose  of  partaking  of  the  refreshing  sea  breeze,  as 
for  enjoying  the  prospect,  which,  from  this  place,  in 
cludes  the  harbor  with  its  various  shipping,  Governor's 
island,  Bedlow's  island,  and  Ellis'  island,  on  each  of 
which  are  military  stations,  the  shores  of  New-Jersey 
and  Long  Island,  with  the  flourishing  town  of  Brook 
lyn,  and  the  numerous  country  seats  in  its  vicinity. 


92  KEW-YORE. 

CASTLE  GARDEN,  connected  with  the  battery  by  a 
bridge,  is  much  frequented  during  the  summer  evenings. 
It  has  a  fine  promenade,  and  is  often  rendered  attract 
ive  by  a  display  of  fire  works  from  its  enclosure,  and 
other  amusements. 

BROADWAY,  the  most  splendid  street  in  the  city,  runs 
through  the  centre  and  extends  3  miles  in  length  and 
about  80  feet  in  width.  It  is  the  great  and  fashionable 
resort  for  citizens  and  strangers,  and  is  much  crowded 
during  pleasant  weather.  In  this  avenue  are  Grace, 
Trinity  and  St.  Paul's  churches,  the  Adelphi  Hotel,  City 
Hotel,  National  Hotel,  Franklin  House,  American  Ho 
tel,  Washington  Hall,  Masonic  Hall,  and  a  variety  of 
shops  with  elegant  and  extensive  assortments  of  mer 
chandize  of  every  description. 

Opposite  Trinity  church,  Wall-street  opens,  which 
contains  the  Exchange,  most  of  the  banks,  together 
with  the  principal  part  of  the  brokers'  and  insurance 
offices.  At  the  termination  of  Wall-street,  is  the  Ton 
tine  coffee  house,  an  extensive  and  handsome  establish 
ment. 

On  passing  up  Broadway  still  farther,  is  Cedar  and 
Courtland  streets,  both  of  which  lead  to  the  Hudson 
river,  where  the  steam-boats  start  for  Albany.  At  the 
foot  of  Courtland-street  is  the  ferry  to  Jersey  city.  A 
little  further  up  is  Fulton-street,  on  the  corner  of  which 
and  Broadway  stands  St.  Paul's  church.  Fulton-street 
leads  to  the  East  river  ;  along  the  docks  of  which  are 
the  steam-boats  for  the  New-England  ports.  A  little 
below  are  the  boats  for  Newport  and  Providence — 
above,  for  Brideport,  Saybrook,  Hartford,  New-Lon- 


NEW-YORK.  03 

don  and  Norwich.  The  New-Haven  boats  lie  at  Fly 
market  dock,  still  farther  below. 

Above  St.  Paul's  church  is  the  Park  and  City  Hall, 
situated  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  the  former  containing1 
about  1 1  acres,  which  are  ornamented  with  much  taste, 
and  enclosed  by  a  substantial  iron  railing.  It  furnish 
es  a  cool  and  fashionable  resort  for  men  of  business  and 
pleasure,  after  the  fatigue  and  heat  of  a  summer's  day. 
On  the  right  is  the  Park  Theatre,  and  on  the  left  Park 
Place,  on  the  west  side  of  which  is  Columbia  .College. 
The  next  street  above  Park  Place  is  Murray,  which 
leads  to  the  Hoboken  ferry. 

Of  the  public  buildings,  the  most  prominent  and  im 
portant  is  the 

CITY  HALL,  the  front  of  which  is  built  of  white  mar 
ble.  It  is  216  feet  long,  105  feet  broad,  and,  including 
the  attic  story,  65  feet  high.  The  rooms  for  holding  the 
different  courts  of  law  are  fitted  up  in  a  rich  and  ex 
pensive  style.  The  room  for  holding  the  mayor's  court 
contains  portraits  of  Washington,  of  the  different  gov 
ernors  of  the  state,  and  many  of  the  most  celebrated 
commanders  of  the  army  and  navy  of  the  United  States. 
The  foundation  stone  of  this  building  was  laid  in  1803, 
and  the  whole  finished  in  1812,  at  an  expense  of  $500,- 
000.  It  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  edifices  in  America, 
and  reflects  great  credit  on  the  inhabitants  for  their 
munificence  and  taste. 

The  MERCHANT'S  EXCHANGE  in  Wall-street,  is  also 
a  superb  structure  of  white  marble.  Its  front  on  Wall- 
street  is  114  feet,  and  its  depth,  extending  to  Garden- 
street,  150  feet.  The  main  body  of  the  building  is  two 
stories  high,  besides  the  basement  and  an  attic  story. 


94  NEW-YORK. 

About  two  thirds  of  the  basement  is  occupied  for  the 
post-office,  including  a  spacious  corridor  for  the  con 
venience  of  persons  visiting  the  office,  with  entrances 
leading  thereto  from  Wall  and  Exchange  streets.  The 
portico  of  the  building,  to  which  a  flight  of  marble  steps 
ascends,  is  ornamented  with  Ionic  columns  27  feet 
high.  In  the  centre  is  the  Exchange,  of  an  oval  form, 
85  feet  long,  55  feet  wide  and  45  feet  high,  surmounted 
with  a  dome,  from  which  light  is  reflected.  The  whole 
is  imposing,  and  affords  a  delightful  promenade.  From 
the  Exchange  are  doors  and  passages  leading  to  a  com 
mercial  reading  room  and  numerous  newspaper  and 
other  offices  within  the  edifice.  From  the  attic  story, 
a  flight  of  stairs  leads  to  a  telegraphic  room  in  the  cu 
pola,  where  signals  are  made,  and  returned  from  the 
telegraph  at  the  Narrows,  71-2  miles  distant.  The 
height  of  the  cupola  above  the  attic  story  is  60  feet. 
The  cost  of  this  building,  including  the  ground,  was 
$230,000.  It  was  commenced  in  1824,  and  completed 
in  3  years  thereafter. 

The  UNITED  STATES  BRANCH  BANK,  in  Wall-street, 
is  an  elegant  white  marble  building,  60  feet  in  front. 
The  lot  on  which  it  was  erected  cost  $40,000. 

TRINITY  CHURCH,  in  Broadway,  at  the  head  of  Wall 
street,  from  its  antique  appearance,  generally  attracts 
the  notice  of  strangers.  The  first  church  on  this  spot 
was  erected  in  1696.  Originally  small,  it  was  enlarged 
in  1737  ;  but  during  the  fire  which  destroyed  the  west 
part  of  the  city  in  1776,  while  the  British  troops  were  in 
possession,  it  was  destroyed,  and  not  re-built  till  1788. 
The  present  building  is  of  stone,  in  Gothic  style,  and 
much  like  the  old  one,  except  a  diminution  in  size,  and 


NEW- YORK.  95 

has  o  steeple  198  feet  high.     It  contains  a  chime  of 
bells,  the  only  set  in  the  city,  and  an  excellent  organ. 

The  cemetery  surrounding  it  is  ancient,  and  is  enclos 
ed  by  a  substantial  and  costly  iron  railing.  No  inter 
ments  have  taken  place  in  this  cemetery  for  some  years, 
owing  to  a  law  prohibiting  sepulture  within  the  popu 
lous  parts  of  the  city  ;  but  it  has  been  ascertained  by 
authentic  records  kept,  that  more  than  one  hundred  and 
sixty  thousand  bodies  have  been  here  deposited  (exclu 
sive  of  the  7  years  of  the  revolutionary  war,  when  no 
records  were  kept) — an  amount  nearly  equal  to  tho 
present  population  of  the  city.  Among  the  illustrious 
dead  who  repose  in  this  hallowed  spot  are  the  remains 
of  Gen.  Hamilton  and  Capt.  Lawrrence.  The  monu 
ment  over  the  grave  of  the  former  contains  the  follow 
ing  inscription : 

"  To  the  memory  of  ALEXANDER  HAMILTON,  the 
corporation  of  Trinity  church  has  erected  this  mon 
ument  in  testimony  of  their  respect  for  the  patriot  of  in 
corruptible  integrity,  the  soldier  of  approved  valor,  the 
statesman  of  consummate  wisdom,  whose  talents  and 
whose  virtues  will  be  admired  by  grateful  posterity 
long  after  this  marble  shall  have  mouldered  into  dust. 
He  died  July  2,  1804,  aged  47." 

Near  this  monument  there  is  an  inscription  on  a 
tomb  so  singularly  and  affectingly  beautiful,  we  cannot 
forbear  to  record  it,  and  the  emotions  it  awakened  in 
the  bosom  of  a  stranger,  (whose  words  we  quote. )  It  is 
an  oblong  pile  of  masonry,  surmounted  by  a  slab  stone, 
on  which  are  deeply  cut  the  following  words  : 

"  MY  MOTHER/ 
The  trumpet  shall  sound  and  the  dead  sh(dl  rise." 

H2 


0C  NEW- YORK. 

There  are  no  other  letters  or  characters  to  be  found 
on  the  slab  or  pile.  If  there  is  one  inscription  in  the 
thousand  languages  that  are  or  have  been  of  earth,  fit 
ted  to  retain  its  sublime  meaning  through  every  period 
of  time  up  to  the  resurrection  morning,  it  is  this.  The 
writer  seemed  aware  that  names  would  be  forgotten 
and  titles  fade  from  the  memory  of  the  world.  He, 
therefore,  engraved  the  name  by  which  he  first  knew 
her  who  gave  him  birth,  on  the  stone — and  the  dearest 
of  all  names,  that  of  mother,  shall  send  a  thrill  through 
the  heart  of  every  one  who  may  ever  lean  over  this  mon 
umental  pile.  If  any  shall  wish  to  know  further  of  her 
who  had  a  child  to  engrave  her  most  enduring  name  up 
on  a  rock,  he  is  sublimely  referred  to  the  sounding  of 
the  trumpet  and  the  rising  of  the  dead,  when  he  may 
know  all. 

The  monument  to  the  memory  of  Capt.  Lawrence, 
who  was  killed  during  the  last  war  in  an  engagement 
between  the  U.  S.  frigate  Chesapeake,  which  he  com 
manded,  and  the  British  frigate  Shannon,  represents  a 
broken  column,  as  emblematical  of  his  premature  death. 
It  was  erected  at  the  expense  of  the  corporation. 

ST.  PAUL'S  CHAPEL  is  a  superb  structure  further  up 
Broadway,  near  the  Park.  It  contains  a  portico  of  the 
Ionic  order,  consisting  of  four  fluted  pillars  of  brown 
stone,  supporting  a  pediment,  with  a  niche  in  the  cen 
tre  containing  a  statue  of  St.  Paul.  Under  the  portico 
is  a  handsome  monument  erected  by  order  of  congress 
to  the  memory  of  Gen.  Montgomery,  wrho  fell  at  the 
storming  of  Quebec  in  1775,  and  whose  remains  were 
brought  to  New- York  and  interred  beneath  the  monu 
ment  in  1820.  The  spire  of  this  church  is  234  feet  high ; 


NEW-YORK.  97 

and  the  whole  building  is  esteemed  one  of  the  best  spe 
cimens  of  architecture  in  the  city.  In  the  church  yard 
adjoining  is  an  elegant  monument,  recently  erected  to 
the  memory  of  Thomas  Addis  Emmet,  an  eminent 
counsellor  at  law,  and  brother  of  the  unfortunate  Irish 
orator,  Robert  Emmet.  The  plinth  of  the  monument  is 
one  entire  block,  7  feet  square  and  12  inches  thick. 
The  Egyptian  obelisk,  standing  on  its  base,  is  also  in  a 
single  piece,  and  is  rising  of  thirty  two  feet  high.  The 
face  towards  Broadway  is  embellished  with  the  Ameri 
can  eagle,  sheltering  a  harp  unstrung,  with  a  medallion 
likeness  of  Emnaet,  and  with  two  clasped  hands,  hav 
ing  stars  around  one  wrist  and  shamrocks  around  the 
other.  On  the  north  side  is  a  Latin  and  on  the  south 
an  Irish  inscription. 

ST.  JOHN'S  CHAPEL,  in  Varick  street,  opposite  Hud 
son  Square,  is  an  elegant  edifice,  and  the  most  expen 
sive  in  the  city,  having  cost  more  than  $200,000.  Its 
spire  is  240  feet  in  height. 

ST.  PATRICK'S  CATHEDRAL,  a  Roman  Catholic  church, 
in  Mott  street,  is  the  largest  religious  edifice  in  New- 
York.  It  is  built  of  stone,  is  120  feet  long,  80  feet  wide, 
and  is  a  conspicuous  object  in  approaching  the  city 
from  the  east. 

There  are  nearly  100  other  churches  in  the  city,  ma 
ny  of  which  were  erected  at  a  very  considerable  ex 
pense,  and  are  an  ornament  to  the  sections  of  the  city 
in  which  they  stand. 

COLUMBIA  COLLEGE,  above  the  City  Hall,  was  char 
tered  in  1750  under  the  name  of  King's  College.  The 
edifice  and  grounds  attached  are  extensive,  and  are  ad 
vantageously  and  handsomely  located.  The  college 


98  NEW-YORK. 

contains  u  chapel,  lecture  rooms,  hall,  library,  museum, 
end  an  extensive  philosophical  arid  astronomical  appa 
ratus.  The  Hon.  WILLIAM  A.  DUER,  a  gentleman  of 
distinguished  talents  and  learning,  has  been  recently 
appointed  president  of  the  institution. 

The  NEW- YORK  SOCIETY  LIBRARY,  in  Nassau  street, 
was  commenced  in  1740,  and  at  the  commencement  of 
the  revolution  contained  3000  volumes,  which  were  de 
stroyed  or  taken  away  by  the  British  troops.  It  was 
re-established  in  1789,  and  now  consists  of  about  20,000 
volumes,  many  of  which  are  very  rare  and  valuable. 

The  ATHENEUM,  Broadway,  corner  of  Pine  street, 
contains  a  reading  room,  which  is  open  daily,  except 
Sundays. 

The  NEW- YORK  INSTITUTION  is  in  the  rear  of  the  City 
Hall.  Its  apartments  are  occupied  by  the  Literary  and 
Philosophical  Society,  the  Historical  Society,  the  Amer 
ican  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  the  Lyceum  of  Natural 
History,  the  American  Museum,  and  the  Asylum  for 
the  Deaf  and  Dumb.  The  Historical  Society  has  a  li 
brary  of  10,000  volumes,  embracing  many  valuable 
works. 

Near  the  institution  are  the  Savings  Bank  and  Pan 
orama  Rotunda  ;  and  a  little  further  up  Broadway,  tho 
New- York  Hospital.  The  annual  expenditure  in  this 
institution  is  about  $40,000,  and  the  annual  number  of 
patients  from  140  to  180. 

The  PARK  THEATRE  is  a  spacious  edifice,  adjoining 
the  Park.  It  was  originally  built  in  1798,  at  an  expense 
of  $179,000,  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1820,  and  re-built 
the  following  year.  It  is  80  feet  long,  165  deep,  and  55 


NEW-YORK.  99 

high,  and  has  generally  been  more  liberally  patronized 
than  any  other  theatre  in  the  city. 

The  NEW-YORK  THEATRE,  in  the  Bowery,  displays 
much  architectural  beauty,  and,  among  the  modern  or 
naments  of  the  city,  stands  pre-eminent.  It  has  a  front 
of  75  feet,  is  175  feet  deep,  and  50  feet  high.  It  enjoys 
a  handsome  patronage. 

Besides  these  places  of  amusement,  there  is  a  the 
atre  in  Chatham  street,  and  a  circus  in  Broadway,  be 
tween  Canal  and  Grand  streets. 

PRINCIPAL  HOTELS. 

The  ADELPHI  HOTEL,  corner  of  Beaver  street  and 
Broadway,  kept  by  Mr.  John  Ford,  one  of  the  propri 
etors  of  the  U.  S.  Hotel  at  Saratoga  Springs,  is  an  el 
egant  establishment,  built  of  brick  and  stuccoed.  Its 
situation  is  in  a  most  delightful  part  of  the  city,  front 
ing  the  Bowling  Green  and  in  full  view  of  the  Battery 
and  harbor.  It  is  six  stories  high,  possesses  spacious 
and  airy  accommodations,  and  contains  several  private 
parlors  on  the  English  plan,  richly  furnished,  and  ren 
dered  peculiarly  desirable  from  the  fine  views  present 
ed,  and  the  refreshing  breeze  which  is  experienced  from 
the  water. 

The  MANSION  HOUSE,  39  Broadway,  is  a  commodi 
ous  establishment,  pleasantly  located,  and  enjoys  a 
handsome  patronage  of  genteel  company. 

The  CITY  HOTEL,  a  few  doors  north  of  Trinity  church 
in  Broadway,  kept  by  Mr.  Jennings,  is  an  old  and  high 
ly  respectable  establishment,  and  one  of  the  most  ex 
tensive  in  the  city,  containing  more  than  100  parlors 


100  NEW- YORK. 

and  lodging  rooms,  (many  of  them  designed  for  private 
families)  besides  an  assembly  room,  principally  used 
for  concerts.  The  rooms  are  furnished  in  the  best 
etyle,  and  the  house,  from  its  central  location  and  good 
accommodations,  has  always  enjoyed  an  extensive  pat 
ronage.* 

The  NATIONAL  HOTEL,  kept  by  Messrs.  Underwood 
&  Curtis,  nearly  opposite  the  City  Hotel,  is  a  Targe  and 
excellent  house,  well  furnished,  and  well  supported. 

FRANKLIN  HOUSE,  Broadway,  corner  of  Dey  street, 
kept  by  Mr.  Seymour,  though  not  so  extensive  as  some 
of  the  other  establishments,  is  pleasantly  located,  fur 
nished  in  good  style,  and  enjoys  a  handsome  patronage. 

The  AMERICAN  HOTEL  is  delightfully  situated,  front 
ing  the  Park  in  Broadway,  and  is  among  the  most  fa 
vored  establishments  in  the  city.  It  is  five  stories  high, 
and  extends  on  Barclay  street  to  the  college  of  Physi 
cians  and  Surgeons.  Its  public  and  private  parlours 
and  lodging  rooms,  which  are  numerous,  are  furnished 
in  the  best  style,  and  it  is  extensively  patronized  by  a 
fashionable  and  respectable  company. 

The  WASHINGTON  HALL  is  another  extensive  estab 
lishment  in  Broadway,  corner  of  Reed  street,  hand 
somely  fitted  up  and  possessing  excellent  accommoda 
tions. 

Besides  these  are  PARK  PLACE  HOUSE,  Broadway, 
opposite  the  Park;  PEARL-STREET  HOUSE,  Nos.  86  and 
88,  Pearl  street ;  NIBLO'S  BANK  COFFEE-HOUSE  in  Pine 


*  Several  of  the  principal  bookstores  and  libraries  are 
in  this  part  of  Broadway. 


BTEW-YORK.  101 

street ;  TONTINE  COFFEE-HOUSE,  corner  of  Wall  and 
Water  streets  ;  TAMMANY  HALL,  corner  of  Nassau  and 
Frankfort  streets,  and  several  others  of  respectability, 
an  enumeration  of  which  will  not  be  deemed  necessary 
in  this  work. 

PRIVATE  BOARDING-HOUSES.  The  following  arc 
among  the  genteel  and  respectable  private  boarding- 
houses  in  Broadway,  many  of  which  are  extensive,  and 
fitted  up  in  a  style  not  inferior  to  the  best  hotels  :  M'ln- 
tyre's,  No.  5  ;  Mrs.  Baker's,  No.  13 ;  Mrs.  Wood's,  No. 
24  ;  Mrs.  Chapman's,  No.  33 ;  Mrs.  Casati's,  No.  35 ; 
Street's,  No.  36  ;  Mrs.  W.  C.  Barker's,  No.  40  ;  Mrs. 
Reese's,  No.  52  ;  Pearcy's,  No.  56  ;  Mrs.  Miller's,  No. 
57 ;  Mrs.  Helme's,  No.  58 ;  Mrs.  Mann's,  No.  61 ;  Mrs. 
Southart's,  No.  65  ;  Storer's,  No.  66  ;  Mrs.  Waldron's, 
No.  126 ;  Mrs.  Rowland's,  No.  140  ;  Miss  Wade's,  No. 
110. 

The  prices  at  these  houses  vary  from  $1  to  $2  per 
day,  and  from  $5  to  $10  per  week. 

In  point  of  population,  this  city  is  the  first  in  the 
United  States,  containing  probably  not  less  than  190,- 
000  inhabitants,  and  in  respect  of  trade  it  is  now  and 
will  probably  continue  the  first  commercial  metropolis 
in  America.  Though  it  cannot  vie  with  Philadelphia, 
in  point  of  beauty  and  regularity,  New- York  exhibits 
an  air  of  novelty  and  grandeur  very  imposing  to  a 
stranger.  Its  ever  bustling  streets  and  crowded 
wharves,  indicate  an  uncommon  spirit  of  commercial 
enterprize.  Its  local  situation  embraces  every  advan 
tage  for  commerce ;  and  the  canals,  by  opening  an 
easy  communication  between  the  fertile  regions  of  the 
west  and  north  and  the  city  of  New- York,  have  pro 
duced  an  astonishing  change  in  its  srrowth  and  prosper- 


102 


NEW- YORK. 


ity.  At  no  very  distant  period,  New- York,  with  all  its 
natural  and  artificial  advantages,  will  probably  become 
the  greatest  commercial  metropolis  in  the  world. 

The  NEW-YORK  and  LIVERPOOL  PACKETS,  which  are 
fine  vessels  and  elegantly  furnished,  sail  from  New- 
York,  on  the  1st,  8th,  16th,  and  24th  of  every  month ; 
and  in  returning,  leave  Liverpool  on  the  same  days. 
There  are  20  ships  in  this  line.  Passage  in  the  cabin 
30  guineas,  including  beds,  bedding,  wine,  and  stores 
of  every  description. 

The  NEW- YORK  and  LONDON  PACKETS,  touching  at 
Cowes,  sail  from  New- York  on  the  1st  and  16th  of  ev 
ery  month ;  and  in  returning,  leave  London  on  the  10th 
and  25th  of  each  month.  There  are  8  ships  in  this  line. 
Passage  to  and  from  London,  the  same  as  to  and  from 
Liverpool,  with  similar  accommodations. 

NEW-YORK  and  HAVRE  (France)  PACKETS,  sail  from 
New- York  on  the  1st  and  15th  of  each  month;  and 
from  Havre  on  the  same  days.  There  are  12  ships  in 
this  line.  Passage  to  or  from  Havre,  140  dollars,  in 
cluding  the  same  accommodations  as  in  the  London 
and  Liverpool  packets. 

Packets  also  sail  from  New-York  for  Savannah,  once 
in  each  week — office  181  Front  street ;  for  Charleston, 
every  Thursday — office  at  the  same  place  ;  for  New-Or 
leans,  on  the  1st  and  15th  of  each  month — office  62 
South  street ;  and  for  Boston,  every  Saturday. 

PUBLIC   COACHES. 

Strangers  visiting  New- York  are  liable  to  suffer  from 
exorbitant  exactions  for  coach  hire.  To  guard  against 
this,  the  corporation  have  licensed  an  adequate  num- 


NEW-YORK.  103 

her  of  hackmen,  who  may  be  found  at  several  conven 
ient  stands  in  the  city,  each  coach  being  numbered. 
The  rules  and  regulations  to  which  they  are  subjected, 
can  be  found  in  the  "Picture  of  New- York  and  Stran 
ger's  Guide,"*  a  very  useful  and  valuable  directory, 
which  should  be  hi  the  hands  of  visitants. 

EXCURSIONS. 

Among  the  numerous  places  of  fashionable  resort  in 
the  vicinity  of  New- York,  are  Governor's,  Bedlow's 
and  Staten  Islands,  within  the  harbor ;  Orange  Springs, 
near  Newark,  Passaic  Falls,  Schooley's  Mountain,  Long 
Branch,  Hoboken  and  Weehawk,  in  New-Jersey,  on 
the  west ;  the  tour  of  Long-Island,  on  the  east ;  and 
Manhattan-Island,  on  the  north. 

The  Passaic  Falls  are  in  Patterson,  N.  J.  22  miles 
north-west  of  New- York.  The  perpendicular  pitch  is  70 
feet  into  a  narow  and  rocky  chasm,  f  The  scenery  is 
wild  and  imposing  ;  and  the  falls  are  among  the  geat- 
est  natural  curiosities  of  this  country.  The  Morris  ca 
nal,  noticed  at  page  83,  passes  near  them. 

Schooly's  Mountain,  50  miles  west  of  New- York,  was 
noticed  at  page  85. 

Long  Branch,  is  30  miles  south  of  New- York,  on  the 
eastern  shore  of  New-Jersey,  and  on  the  immediate 


*  Published  by  Mr.  A.  T.  Goodrich,  No.  124  Broad 
way,  who  keeps  an  excellent  circulating-library  and 
map  establishment. 

|  It  was  at  this  place  that  the  celebrated  Sam 
Patch  commenced  his  jumping  career,  which  finally  ter 
minated  at  the  falls  on  the  Genesee  river  at  Rochester, 


104  BROOKLYN. 

bank  of  the  Atlantic  ocean,  an  extensive  view  of  which 
is  here  obtained.  A  bathing  establishment  is  erected, 
and  the  bank,  which  is  elevated  to  a  height  of  30  or 
40  feet  for  several  miles,  affords  a  beautiful  promenade. 
Sandy  Hook  and  Neversink  can  be  visited  on  this  route, 
the  heights  of  the  latter  affording  an  extensive  view  of 
the  marine  coast. 

Hoboken  and  Weehawk  are  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Hudson  river,  opposite  the  northern  parts  of  New- 
York,  near  which  is  the  Hoboken  duelling  ground, 
which  cannot  be  easily  approached,  except  in  a  boat. 
A  monument  was  here  erected  some  years  since  to  the 
memory  of  Gen.  Hamilton :  but  it  has  since  been  re 
moved. 

Governor's  and  Bedlow^s  Islands  are  usually  approach 
ed  only  in  row  boats,  and  are  less  frequented  on  that 
account. 

Staten  Island,  south  of  the  city,  was  noticed  at  page  90. 

BROOKLYN,  (on  Long-Island,)  directly  opposite  New- 
York,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  East  river,  is 
usually  reached  by  steam-boats  which  are  constantly 
plying  between  the  foot  of  Fulton  street  and  that  vil 
lage.  It  is  a  large  town,  having  a  population  of  about 
15,000,  and  within  a  few  years  has  arisen  to  much  im 
portance.  Its  contiguity  to  New- York,  and  the  facil 
ities  afforded  for  communicating  between  the  two  pla 
ces,  have  induced  many  merchants  and  men  of  busi 
ness  to  select  it  as  a  place  of  residence  in  preference  to 
the  upper  parts  of  the  city.  The  village  also  contains 
several  elegant  country  seats  and  public  gardens. 
Those  on  the  bank  contiguous  to  the  East  river,  from 
their  elevated  situation,  overlooking  the  bay  of  New- 


MANHATTAN    ISLAND.  105 

York,  and  commanding  a  view  of  a  great  part  of  the 
city,  are  peculiarly  attractive  and  romantic.  North 
eastwardly  of  the  village,  on  a  tract  of  land  called  the 
Wallabout,  is  a  U.  S.  navy  yard,  where  are  erected  a 
house  for  the  commandant,  several  spacious  ware-hous 
es,  and  an  immense  wooden  edifice,  under  which  the 
largest  ships  of  war  are  built.  The  steam  frigate  Ful 
ton,  which  lay  near  the  navy  yard,  and  which  was  an 
object  of  attraction,  was  blown  up  at  this  place  in  1829, 
occasioning  the  loss  of  several  lives. 

Brooklyn  is  intimately  connected  with  important 
events  of  the  revolution,  and  in  its  vicinity  are  pointed 
out  some  remaining  vestiges  of  fortifications  and  mil 
itary  works  erected  during  that  eventful  period.  The 
road  to  Flatbush  (4  miles  east)  crosses  the  ground  on 
which  the  battle  of  the  27th  July,  1776,  was  fought, 
which  resulted  in  a  severe  loss  to  the  Americans  and 
the  capture  of  Generals  Sullivan  and  Sterling.  The 
marshes  in  which  so  many  lives  were  lost  in  retreating 
from  the  British  army,  are  south  of  this. 

From  Brooklyn  to  Jamaica,  a  pleasant  village,  and 
the  capitol  of  the  county  of  Queens,  is  12  miles  ;  and 
from  thence  to  Rockaway,  bordering  on  the  Atlantic,  is 
9  miles  farther.  The  roads  to  this  place  being  excellent, 
it  is  much  resorted  to  in  the  summer  months.  A  fine 
view  of  the  ocean  is  obtained,  which,  from  its  unceas 
ing  roar  and  turbulence,  is  rendered  unusually  sublime. 

Manhattan  Island,  on  which  New- York  is  located,  is 
15  miles  long,  and  on  an  average  one  and  a  half  broad ; 
the  Hudson  river  bounding  it  on  the  west,  the  Harloem 
river  on  the  north,  the  East  river  on  the  east,  and  the 
bay  on  the  south.  A  tour  of  the  island  can  be  per 
formed  in  a  few  hours,  and  will  be  found  to  be  highly 


106  HURL  GATE. 

diversified  and  interesting.  Passing  up  on  the  west 
side,  the  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  on  very  elevated 
ground  about  7  miles  from  the  city,  the  heights  of  Fort 
Washington,  Harlaem  and  Kingsbridge,  are  visited  ; 
and  in  returning  on  the  east  side,  Hurl  Gate,  the  Aims- 
House  and  House  of  Refuge. 

Hurl  Gate  is  a  narrow  and  apparently  a  dangerous 
strait  in  the  East  river,  in  which,  at  low  water,  there 
are  numerous  whirlpools  or  currents,  occasioned  by 
huge  masses  of  rock  projecting  in  various  places,  giv 
ing  to  the  river  only  a  very  contracted  passage.  At 
high  water,  these  masses  are  more  or  less  concealed, 
and  the  current  is  in  a  degree  unruffled.  Losses  of 
vessels  were  formerly  experienced  here  ;  but  none  have 
been  known  in  some  years.  To  avoid  the  dangers, 
however,  incident  to  the  navigation,  a  project  has  been 
broached  of  opening  a  ship  canal  between  Pot  and 
Hallet's  Coves.  A  survey  of  the  proposed  route  has  been 
made,  and  the  result  of  the  examination  is,  that  the 
length  of  the  canal,  to  secure  a  sufficient  depth  of  wa 
ter  in  the  coves,  will  be  2439  running  feet,  viz.  470  of 
excavation  below  high  water,  1369  of  high  upland  with 
indication  of  rock,  and  600  of  salt  marsh.  As  the 
tide  rises  and  falls  in  Hallet's  Cove  several  minutes 
sooner  than  in  the  Pot,  (Hurl  Gate,)  it  would  be  ne 
cessary  to  have  two  pairs  or  gates  at  each  extremity. 
A  draw-bridge  would  also  be  necessary,  to  accommo 
date  the  ferry  road  which  communicates  from  the  Point 
at  Hallet's  Cove  with  the  New- York  shore,  at  the  foot 
of  87th-street.  The  maximum  cost  is  rated  at  $162,- 
152  for  the  entire  completion  of  a  canal  137  feet  in 
width  at  high  water  on  the  surface,  80  at  bottom,  and 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  HUDSON.  107 

38  in  depth,  which  would  be  sufficiently  capacious 
for  a  line  of  battle  ship.  It  is,  however,  believed 
that  a  ship  canal  17  feet  deep  at  high  water,  82  feet 
wide  between  the  banks,  and  40  at  bottom,  would  be 
preferable  ;  in  which  case  the  cost  of  completion  has 
been  estimated  at  $54,548. 

DISCOVERY  OF  THE  HUDSON. 

From  the  collections  of  the  New- York  Historical  So- 
.  ciety,  we  are  enabled  to  glean  the  following  sketch  of 
the  first  discovery  of  the  Hudson  river  ;  which  may  not 
be  uninteresting  to  tourists  about  to  embark  on  its  wa 
ters  : 

John  D.  Verrazzano,  a  Florentine,  in  the  service  of 
Francis  I.  of  France,  had  been  entrusted  with  the  com 
mand  of  four  ships,  in  cruising  against  the  Spaniards. 
These  vessels  being  separated  in  a  storm,  the  com 
mander  resolved,  with  one  of  them,  to  undertake  a 
voyage  for  the  discovery  of  new  countries.  About  the 
middle  of  March,  1554,  he  accordingly  arrived  on  the 
American  coast,  and  after  having  visited  the  coasts  of 
North- Carolina  and  Georgia,  he  directed  his  course 
northward,  and  entered  the  harbor  of  the  present  city 
of  New-York.  He  describes  the  islands  (Staten,  Man 
hattan,  &c.)  as  "  fruitful  and  pleasant,  full  of  hie  and 
broad  trees,  among  the  which  islands  any  navie  may 
ride  safe,  without  any  feare  of  tempest  or  other  dan 
ger."  He  stayed  in  the  harbor  about  15  days. 

Nearly  a  century  elapsed  before  any  farther  discove 
ries  were  made  on  this  part  of  the  continent.  It  was 
reserved  for  Henry  Hudson  to  make  the  first  voyage 

up  the  Hudson  river.    After  having  visited  several  har- 
i2 


103  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  HUDSON. 

bors,  he  entered  the  strait  now  called  the  Narrows  on 
the  6th  September,  1609.  A  boat  was  manned  and  des 
patched  by  him  to  explore  what  appeared  to  be  a  river. 
In  this  service  the  boat's  crew  were  engaged  in  the  bay 
and  adjacent  waters  during  the  day.  On  their  way  back 
to  the  ship,  they  were  attacked  by  the  natives  in  two 
canoes.  A  skirmish  ensued,  in  which  one  of  Hudson's 
men,  named  Colman,  was  killed  by  an  arrow  which 
struck  him  in  the  throat,  and  two  more  wounded.  The 
next  day  the  remains  of  Colman  were  interred  on  a 
point  of  land  not  far  from  the  ship  ;  which,  from  that 
circumstance,  received  the  name  of  Colman's  Point, 
and  which  was  probably  the  same  that  is  now  called 
Sandy  Hook. 

On  the  12th,  Hudson  first  entered  the  river  which 
bears  his  name,  and  sailed  up  about  two  leagues.  He 
was  visited  by  great  numbers  of  the  natives,  who 
brought  him  Indian  corn,  tobacco,  beans  and  oysters  in 
great  abundance.  They  had  pipes  of  yellow  copper, 
in  which  they  smoked ;  and  earthen  pots,  in  which 
they  dressed  their  food. 

From  the  12th  to  the  22d  September,  Hudson  was 
employed  in  ascending  the  river.  He  describes  it  as 
abounding  with  great  stores  of  salmon.  In  his  passage 
he  was  visited  by  many  of  the  natives,  but  always  in 
an  amicable  manner.  He  sailed  up,  as  is  supposed,  a 
little  above  where  the  city  of  Hudson  now  stands  ;  be 
yond  which  he  himself  never  ascended.  From  this 
place  he  despatched  a  boat,  (not  considering  it  safe  to 
proceed  farther  with  his  vessel,)  manned  with  five 
hands,  which  ascended  the  river,  it  is  supposed,  as  far 
as  where  the  city  of  Albany  now  stands. 


DISCOVERY  OP  THE  HUDSON.  109 

During  this  excursion,  Hudson  gave  to  some  of  the 
Indians  ardent  spirits  for  the  purpose  of  making  an  ex 
periment  on  their  tempers.  He  says  they  all  became 
merry  ;  but  only  one  was  completely  intoxicated.  A 
tradition  still  exists  among  the  six  nations,  that  a  scene 
of  intoxication  occurred  when  the  first  ship  arrived ; 
having  reference,  doubtless,  to  this  event. 

Hudson  began  to  descend  the  river  on  the  23d  of 
September,  having  frequent  intercourse  with  the  Indi 
ans  on  his  way  down,  from  whom  he  experienced  kind 
treatment,  until  he  descended  below  the  Highlands. 
Here  they  attempted  to  rob  the  ship,  and  repeatedly 
shot  at  the  crew.  He  directed  several  muskets  to  be 
discharged  at  them,  which  killed  ten  or  twelve.  These 
conflicts  occurred  frequently  during  the  1st  and  2d  of 
October  ;  but  none  of  the  ship's  crew  were  injured. 

On  the  4th  of  October,  one  month  from  the  time  he 
first  landed  at  Sandy  Hook,  he  sailed  out  of  the  river 
and  proceeded  to  sea,  reaching  England  the  7th  of  No 
vember  following. 

Hudson  did  not  give  his  own  name  to  the  river  he 
discovered.  It  was  called  by  the  Iroquois  Indians, 
Cahohatatea ;  by  the  Mohiccans,  Mahakaneghtuc,  and 
sometimes  Shatemuck.  Hudson  styled  it  the  "  Great 
River,"  or  the  "  Great  River  of  the  Mountains."  The 
name  of  its  discoverer,  however,  was  given  to  it  soon 
afterwards. 

Hudson,  in  a  subsequent  voyage  for  the  East  India 
Company,  became  a  prey  to  the  mutiny  of  his  men  in 
the  bay  which  bears  his  name.  He  was  forcibly  put 
into  a  boat  with  his  son  and  seven  others,  who  were 
mostly  invalids,  and,  in  this  manner,  inhumanly  aban 
doned.  They  were  never  heard  of  more. 


110  FROM  NEW-YORK  TO  ALBANY. 

FROM  NEW- YORK  TO  ALBANY, 
A  distance,  by  water,  of  144  miles,  and  by  land, 
measuring  between  the  respective  post-offices,  of  160 
miles,  a  communication  is  alternately  kept  up  by  a  line 
of  stages  in  the  winter  season,  and  by  steam-boats  dur 
ing  the  absence  of  the  ice  in  the  Hudson.  The  mo 
nopoly  which  formerly  existed  in  favor  of  the  North 
River  Steam-boat  Company,  has,  by  a  decision  of  the 
United  States  Court,  been  done  away ;  the  conse 
quence  of  which  has  been  to  multiply  the  number  of 
opposition  steam-boats  upon  the  Hudson,  and  to  reduce 
the  price  of  fare,  which,  at  present,  including  board,  is 
not  over  $3  to  Albany,  and  in  some  of  the  b*oats  not 
more  than  $1.  The  following  is  a  table  of  distances 
between  the  two  places  : 

DISTANCE  BY  WATER  FROM 


t  I  6 

i  S  I 

U  fc  ^ 

New-York, 144 

Wehawken, 6  6  138 

Palisadoes,  southern  termination,  ...      2  8  136 

Fort  Washington. 4  12  132 

Tappan  Bay,  southern  extremity, ...    12  24  120 

Sing  Sing, 8  32  112 

Haverstraw  Bay, 2  34  110 

Stoney  Point, 5  39  105 

Verplank's  Point, 1  40  104 

Horse  Race,  (Highlands,) 2  42  102 

Anthony's  Nose, 3  45  99 

West  Point, 5  50  94 


FROM  NEW-YORK  TO  ALBANY.  Ill 


DISTANCE  BY  WATER  FROM 


-P,        fc         3 

Pollopel  Island,  ...................  6  56  88 

Newburgh,  .......................  4  60  84 

Milton,  ........  ,......,.  ......  ...  11  71  73 

Poughkeepsie,...,.,....  ..........  4  75  68 

HydePark,  ............  ,  .........  5  80  63 

Rhinebeck,  ......................  10  90  53 

Redhook,  lower  landing,  ...........  7  97  46 

Redhook,  upper  do  .............  ,,.  3  100  43 

Catskill,  .........................  11  111  32 

Hudson,  .........................  5  116  27 

Coxackie,  ........................  8  124  19 

Kinderhook,  ......................  1  125  18 

New  Baltimore,  ...................  5  130  13 

Schodack,  .......................  4  134  9 

Albany,  .........................  10  144 

Boats  leave  New-  York  and  Albany  at  6  and  10 
o'clock  A.  M.  and  5  P.  M.,  and  the  trip  is  usually  per 
formed  in  from  12  to  14  hours.  An  early  morning  boat 
will  prove  the  most  interesting  to  those  who  have  nev 
er  performed  the  route  by  day-light  ;  as  it  will  afford 
an  opportunity  of  witnessing  the  rich  scenery  and  nu 
merous  villages  and  country  seats  between  the  two 
cities. 

All  the  boats  stop  at  the  principal  places  on  the  river 
for  the  purpose  of  landing  and  receiving  passengers. 
Till  within  two  or  three  years,  accidents  were  not  un 
common  at  the  landing  places,  owing  to  the  continued 
motion  of  the  boat  ;  but  by  a  late  law,  captains  and 


112  PASSAGE  OF  THE  HUDSON. 

masters  are  required  to  stop  their  boats,  whenever  pas 
sengers  are  landed  or  received  on  board. 

The  spirit  of  accommodation  which  is  manifested  in 
all  the  boats,  is  owing  probably  to  the  rivalship  exist 
ing  between  them.  Passengers  are  well  entertained, 
and  every  attention  is  shewn  that  can  contribute  to 
their  comfort  and  convenience. 

THE  PASSAGE  OF  THE  HUDSON. 

Besides  the  pleasure  of  a  steam-boat  passage,  the 
Hudson  river  presents  to  the  tourist  a  variety  of  natu 
ral  scenery  which  it  will  be  difficult  to  find  elsewhere 
in  a  journey  of  the  same  extent.  To  the  gratification  de 
rived  from  a  prospect  of  the  beautiful  and  sublime  ob 
jects  of  nature,  the  effect  of  the  most  striking  contrast 
is  added,  to  render  the  scene  truly  picturesque  and  en 
chanting.  On  the  one  hand  are  seen  summits,  crown 
ed  with  forests,  apparently  impenetrable  to  the  foot 
steps  of  cultivation,  and  on  the  other,  beautiful  and  ex 
tensive  lawns,  checkered  with  the  abodes  of  husband 
ry,  and  glowing  in  all  the  rich  verdure  of  summer; 
while  in  the  same  circumstances  of  vision  may  be  seen 
the  fading  view  of  some  town  or  city,  and  in  perspec 
tive  a  perpetual  opening  scenery  of  forests  and  cultiva 
tion,  plains  and  mountains,  towns  and  villages,  impart 
ing  to  the  beholder  all  the  charms  of  novelty,  with  the 
highest  emotions  of  the  sublime. 

WEEHAWKEN,  about  6  miles  from  the  city,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river,  is  pointed  out  to  the  traveller  as 
the  ground  on  which  Gen.  Hamilton  fell  in  a  duel  with 
Col.  Burr.  It  is  a  small  spot  on  the  margin  of  the  riv 
er,  with  huge  rocks  on  three  sides,  effectually  screen- 


THE  PALISADOES.  113 

ing  it  from  the  observation  of  man,  except  from  the  riv 
er  ;  and  probably  has,  for  that  cause,  been  selected  as 
a  suitable  place  for  settling  affairs  of  honor.  Till  with 
in  a  few  years,  it  contained  a  monument  erected  to  the 
memory  of  Gen.  Hamilton  by  the  St.  Andrews  society ; 
but  it  has  been  removed.  His  body  was  deposited  in 
the  ground  attached  to  Trinity  church  in  the  city,  where 
there  is  a  handsome  monument,  enclosed  in  an  iron 
railing.  (See  pages  95  and  104.) 

The  PALISADOES,  which  make  their  first  appearance 
on  the  Hudson,  about  8  miles  from  New- York,  are  a 
range  of  rocks,  from  20  to  550  feet  in  height,  and  ex 
tend  from  thence  to  Tappan,  a  distance  of  about  20 
miles.  In  some  places  they  rise  almost  perpendicular 
ly  from  the  shore,  and  form,  for  several  miles  in  extent, 
a  solid  wall  of  rock,  diversified  only  by  an  occasional 
fishing  hut  on  the  beach  at  their  base,  or  wood  slides 
down  their  sides,  and  sometimes  by  an  interval  of  a 
few  acres  of  arable  land,  affording  an  opening  for  a  land 
ing  place  and  a  steep  road  leading  to  their  top.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river  the  land  is  varied  by  hill 
and  dale,  cultivated  fields  and  woods,  with  cottages 
and  country  seats.  The  land  in  this  place,  however, 
back  from  the  river,  rises  in  rocky  hills,  and  becomes 
more  precipitous  as  you  advance  into  Westchester 
county. 

Twelve  miles  from  New- York,  the  boat  passes  the 
site  of  FORT  LEE,  on  the  brow  of  the  Palisadoes,  at  the 
height  of  300  feet  above  the  river ;  nearly  opposite  to 
which,  on  a  high  hill  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
stood  FORT  WASHINGTON.  In  October,  1776,  after  the 


114  TARRYTOWN. 

evacuation  of  New- York  by  the  American  troops,  fol 
lowed  the  battle  of  White  Plains,  by  which  name  is 
known  the  high  ground  on  the  east,  between  the  Hud 
son  river  and  the  Sound  above  Kingsbridge,  whence 
Washington  retreated  to  Peekskill.  Fort  Washington 
was  then  taken  by  the  Hessians  and  British,  and  the 
garrison,  composed  of  2600  militia  and  regular  troops, 
surrendered  prisoners  of  war.  The  surrender  of  Fort 
Lee  followed  soon  after  Washington  crossed  the  Hud 
son.  There  was  also  on  the  east  side  another  fort, 
called  Independence. 

Twenty  four  miles  above  New- York  the  river  ex 
pands  and  forms  what  is  called  TAPPAN  BAY.  The  lit 
tle  village  of  Tappan,  a  place  of  much  note  during  An 
dre's  and  Arnold's  conspiracy,  is  situated  on  its  western 
shore.  The  spot  of  Andre's  grave  is  still  pointed  out 
near  this  village,  though  his  remains,  a  few  years  since, 
were  conveyed  to  England,  by  order  of  the  British  gov 
ernment.  This  bay  is  from  2  to  5  miles  wide,  and  8 
miles  long,  terminating  at  Teller's  Point. 

About  a  mile  above  Tappan  village,  on  the  eastern 
shore,  is  the  village  of  TARRYTOWN,  where  Andre  was 
captured  by  Paulding,  Van  Wart  and  Williams,  the 
American  militia-men.  Paulding  died  some  years  ago, 
and  a  monument  was  erected  over  his  grave  by  the  cor 
poration  of  New- York.  Van  Wart  died  more  recently, 
and  a  monument  to  his  memory  has  been  erected  by 
the  citizens  of  Westchester  county.  It  is  a  neat  struc 
ture  of  white  marble,  consisting  of  a  base  of  three  as 
cending  steps,  and  a  pedestal  upon  which  stands  an  ob 
elisk  ;  in  all  being  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  feet  high. 
It  stands  by  the  road  side,  in  a  retired  valley  in  the 


PAULDING'S  MONUMENT.  115 

town  of  Greensburgh,  about  three  miles  east  of  Tarry- 
town.  A  little  creek  winds  its  way  through  the  valley, 
bending  round  to  the  north  in  the  course  of  a  few  miles, 
until  it  leaps  into  the  bosom  of  the  Hudson  atYonkers. 
The  following  inscriptions  are  copied  from  the  pedestal 
of  the  monument : 

ON  THE  NORTH  SIDE. 

"  Here  repose  the  mortal  remains  of 

ISAAC  VAN  WART, 

An  elder  of  Greensburgh  church,  who  died  on  the  23d  of 
May,  1828,  in  the  69th  year  of  his  age.  Having  lived 
the  life,  he  died  the  death  of  a  Christian." 

ON  THE  SOUTH  SIDE. 

"  FIDELITY. 

"  On  the  23d  of  September,  1780,  ISAAC  VAN  WART, 
accompanied  by  John  Paulding  and  David  Williams,  all 
farmers  of  the  county  of  Westchester,  intercepted  Maj. 
Andre,  on  his  return  from  the  American  lines  in  the 
character  of  a  spy  ;  and,  notwithstanding  the  large 
bribes  offered  them  for  his  release,  nobly  disdained  to 
sacrifice  their  country  for  gold — secured  and  carried 
him  to  the  commanding  officer  of  the  district,  whereby 
the  dangerous  and  traitorous  conspiracy  of  Arnold  was 
brought  to  light — the  insidious  designs  of  the  enemy 
baffled — the  American  army  saved — and  our  beloved 
country,  now  free  and  independent,  rescued  from  most 
imminent  peril." 

ON  THE  EAST  SIDE. 

"  VINCIT  AMOR  PATRICE. 

"  Nearly  half  a  century  before  this  monument  was 
built,  the  conscript  fathers  of  America  had,  in  the  sen 
ate  chamber,  voted  that  ISAAC  VAN  WART  was  a  faith- 
K 


116  THE    HIGHLANDS. 

ful  patriot — one  in  whom  the  love  of  country  was  in- 
Tincible— and  this  tomb  bears  testimony  that  the  rec 
ord  is  true." 

ON  THE  WEST  SIDE. 

"  The  citizens  of  the  county  of  Westchester  erected 
this  tomb  in  testimony  of  the  high  sense  they  entertain 
ed  for  the  virtuous  and  patriotic  conduct  of  their  fellow 
citizen,  and  as  a  memorial  sacred  to  public  gratitude.1* 

Near  the  northern  extremity  of  Tappan  Bay,  on  the 
Eastern  shore,  is  the  Sing  Sing  state  prison.  It  com 
prises  800  dormitaries  or  solitary  cells,  is  4  stories  high, 
and  occupies  about  50  by  500  feet  of  ground.  From 
each  end  of  the  main  building,  which  stands  parallel 
with  the  river,  in  a  westerly  direction,  are  carried  out 
wings,  300  feet  in  extent,  forming  a  spacious  inner 
yard  open  only  to  the  river.  The  wings,  composed  of 
marble,  are  constructed  for  workshops,  a  chapel,  kitch 
en,  hospital,  &c.  The  chapel  is  of  sufficient  dimensions 
to  hold  900  persons.  The  keeper's  house,  on  the  south 
eastern  end  of  the  main  building,  is  also  constructed  of 
marble.  The  number  of  convicts  in  the  prison  in  1829, 
Was  about  600.  Its  erection  was  commenced  in  1825 ; 
and  its  cost  is  estimated  at  rising  of  $200,000. 

HAVERSTRAW  BAT  commences  34  miles  from  New- 
York,  and  terminates  at  Stoney  and  Verplanck's  Points ; 
being  about  6  miles  in  length,  and  from  2  to  4  in  width. 
Haverstraw  village  is  on  the  west  side  of  this  bay. 

The  HIGHLANDS,  or  Fishkill  Mountains,  which  first 
appear  about  40  miles  from  New- York,  will  attract  no 
tice,  not  only  from  their  grandeur  and  sublimity,  but  al 
so  from  their  association  with  some  of  the  most  impor- 


THE    HIGHLANDS.  *U 

tant  events  of  the  revolution.  This  chain  of  mountains 
is  about  16  miles  in  width,  and  extends  along  both  sides 
of  the  Hudson,  to  the  distance  of  20  miles.  The  height 
of  the  principal  has  been  estimated  at  1565  feet.  Ac 
cording  to  the  theory  of  Doctor  Mitchell,  this  thick  and 
solid  barrier  seems  in  ancient  days  to  have  impeded  the 
course  of  the  water,  and  to  have  raised  a  lake  high 
enough  to  cover  all  the  country  to  Quaker  Hill  and  the 
Laconick  Mountains  on  the  east,  and  to  Shawangunk 
and  the  Catskill  Mountains  on  the  west ;  extending  to 
the  Little  Falls  of  the  Mohawk,  and  to  Hadley  Falls  on 
the  Hudson — but  by  some  convulsion  of  nature,  the 
mountain  chain  has  been  broken,  and  the  rushing  wa 
ters  found  their  way  to  the  now  New- York  bay.  At 
the  entrance  of  the  Highlands,  on  the  south,  is  the  site 
of  an  old  fort  on  Verplank's  Point,  opposite  to  which 
stood  the  fort  of  Stoney  Point,  which  was  taken  from 
Gen.  Wayne  in  1778,  and  re-taken  by  him  the  same 
year.  About  two  miles  north  of  this,  what  is  termed  the 
Horse  Race  commences.  This  consists  of  an  angle  in  the 
river,  which,  for  a  little  more  than  a  mile,  takes  an  east- 
wardly  direction,  contracted  to  a  very  narrow  space 
within  bold  and  rocky  mountains  ;  one  of  which,  AN 
THONY'S  NOSE,  is  1228  feet  high,  and  is  opposite  the 
mouth  of  Montgomery  creek,  overlooking  Forts  M  ont- 
gomery  and  Clinton.  These  forts,  under  command  of 
Gen.  Putnam,  were  captured  by  the  British  troops  un 
der  Sir  Henry  Clinton  in  1777,  when  on  his  way  to  co 
operate  with  Gen.  Burgoyne,  the  news  of  whose  surren 
der,  however,  reached  Sir  Henry  when  he  had  proceed 
ed  as  far  as  Kingston,  50  miles  higher  up,  and  changed 
his  advance  into  a  retreat.  Bloody  Pondt  so  called, 


116  WEST   POINT. 

from  its  being  the  place  in  which  the  bodies  of  the  slain 
were  thrown  after  the  defences  of  these  forts,  is  in  the 
rear  of  Fort  Clinton. 

WEST  POINT,  one  of  the  most  impregnable  posts  dur 
ing  the  revolutionary  war,  is  situated  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Hudson,  near  the  entrance  of  the  High 
lands  on  the  north.  It  formed  one  of  the  most  im 
portant  fastnesses  of  the  American  army  during  the 
eight  years  contest  with  the  British  nation  ;  and  the 
consequence  attached  to  it,  in  a  military  point  of  view, 
was  evinced  by  the  repeated  but  unsuccessful  efforts  of 
the  enemy  to  obtain  it.  It  was  here  that  Arnold  con 
ceived  the  horrid  purpose  of  bartering  his  country  for 
gold.  This  conspiracy,  however,  which  aimed  a  death 
blow  at  liberty  in  the  western  hemisphere,  resulted  on 
ly  in  the  universal  contempt  and  ignominy  of  Arnold, 
and  in  the  lamented  death  of  the  unfortunate  Andre. 
There  are  here  at  present  a  number  of  dwelling-houses, 
and  a  military  academy,  built  on  the  plain  which  forms 
the  bank  of  the  river,  188  feet  in  height,  to  which  a  road 
ascends  on  the  north  side  of  the  point.  In  the  back 
ground,  and  elevated  on  a  mass  of  rocks  598  feet  in 
height,  is  the  site  of  Fort  Putnam.  Silence  and  decay 
now  mark  the  spot  of  this  once  formidable  fortress.  Its 
mouldering  ruins,  however,  convey  a  pretty  correct 
idea  of  the  impregnable  barrier  its  ramparts  once  pre 
sented  to  the  enemies  of  freedom. 

The  MILITARY  ACADEMY  here  established  by  con 
gress,  was  first  organized  under  the  direction  of  the  late 
Gen.  Williams,  in  1802.  Of  the  number  of  applicants 
for  admission  to  this  institution,  a  preference  is  usually 


WEST  POINT. 


119 


given,  first,  to  the  sons  of  officers  of  the  revolution  ; 
and  secondly,  to  the  sons  of  deceased  officers  of  the 
late  war.  None  are  admitted  under  the  age  of  14  years, 
nor  above  the  age  22.  The  number  of  cadets  is  limited 
to  250,  each  of  whom  costs  the  government  $336  annu 
ally  ;  and  the  whole  establishment  is  maintained  at 
an  annual  expense  of  $115,000.  In  addition  to  the  va 
rious  sciences  which  are  taught  here,  the  cadets  are 
instructed  in  all  the  practical  rninutice  of  tactics  ;  com 
prehending  the  lowest  duties  of  the  private  soldier,  as 
well  as  the  highest  duties  of  the  officer.  They  are  al 
so  required  to  encamp  for  6  or  8  weeks  in  a  year  ;  dur 
ing  which  time  they  are  instructed  in  the  manner  of 
pitching  and  striking  tents,  in  the  various  infantry  ev 
olutions,  and  in  all  the  details  of  the  camp. 

The  following  table,  shewing  the  number  of  cadets, 
who  had  entered  and  left  this  academy  from  its  organi 
zation  to  Sept.  2,  1828,  may  not  be  uninteresting  to 
many  of  the  readers  of  these  pages  : 


1 

1 

Commiss'ned.| 

Resigned. 

Discharged. 

•"d 
o> 

3 

Remaining.  | 

3 

6 

2 

9 

New-Hampshire,  .......       30 

17 

6 

2 

9 

Massachusetts,  ........       91 

53 

32 

3 

0 

1«> 

97 

9 

1 

8 

Rhode  Island,  .......      .       14 

5 

4 

2 

4 

Vermont,  48 

38 

g 

3 

2 

4 

New-York,  218 

107 

69 

29 

3 

S«? 

New-Jersey,  30 

14 

10 

3 

7 

Pennsylvania,  110 

4? 

4S 

17 

9, 

9fi 

K2 

WEST  POINT. 


1 

n3 

< 

Commiss'ned. 

"8 

& 
•| 

i 

Discharged. 

'i 

2 

bh 

6 
31 

49 
18 
21 
8 
16 
10 
15 
5 
4 
2 
4 
2 
8 
3 

1 

24 
1 

7 
29 
63 
30 
27 
13 
22 
15 
13 
6 
4 
2 
4 
1 
5 
2 
1 
1 
1 
27 
18 

2 
11 
24 

7 
3 
2 
11 
7 
7 
2 
2 
3 

2 
2 

1 

5 
9 

i 
i 
i 

2 

3 
1 

2 

4 
12 
20 
13 
7 
9 
17 
8 
14 
4 
3 
3 
2 
3 
1 
2 
1 

5 

Maryland  75 

North  Carolina,  62 

Kentucky  59 

Ohio,  44 

Arkansaw,  2 

Florida,  3 

District  of  Columbia,  61 
Not  Designated,  35 

Total, 


1289|  540  |  477|   162|202|  39 


The  report  of  the  Board  of  Visiters  to  this  institution 
in  1829,  was  highly  creditable  to  the  superintendant, 
Col.  Thayer,  and  the  officers  and  cadets.  As  impor 
tant  appendages  to  the  present  buildings,  the  board  re 
commend  the  erection  of  one  for  military  and  other  ex 
ercises  in  winter  and  bad  weather,  and  a  house  for  pub 
lic  worship. 

Several  of  the  buildings  at  West  Point  are  elegant, 
and  among  the  number  may  be  ranked  a  new  and  spa- 


WEST  POINT.  121 

cious  hotel.  It  has  been  erected  in  a  style  and  on  a 
scale  which  render  it  a  great  ornament  to  the  grounds. 
It  is  substantially  built  of  stone,  painted  yellow,  and  the 
lower  story  is  surrounded  on  its  sides  with  extensive 
piazzas,  forming  a  delightful  promenade.  Its  rear  is 
upon  the  Hudson,  and  presents  a  delightful  view  up  the 
river  through  the  Highlands.  The  front  faces  the  pa 
rade  ground  and  the  ground  used  for  the  encampment. 

In  the  morning,  the  cadets  drill  as  artillery,  in  front 
of  the  camp.  The  system  followed  is  that  of  Lalle- 
mand.  The  drill  of  the  afternoon  is  that  of  infantry. 
But'the  principal  attraction  to  the  visiter  is  the  morn 
ing  and  evening  parade,  in  which  the  whole  battalion, 
with  the  exception  of  the  guard,  is  drawn  out  and  car 
ried  through  the  manual,  by  the  officer  commanding. 

Near  the  north  eastern  extremity  of  the  grounds,  at 
the  projecting  point  forming  the  abrupt  bend  of  the 
river,  stands  a  monument  of  white  marble,  consisting 
of  a  base  and  short  column,  on  the  former  of  which  is 
simply  inscribed  on  one  side,  "  Kosciusko,"  it  having 
been  erected  to  the  memory  of  that  distinguished  patri 
ot,  who  resided  here.  Another  monument  stands  on 
the  N.  W.  corner  of  the  grounds  near  the  road  from  the 
landing  to  the  hotel,  upon  a  small  hillock.  It  is  a  plain 
obelisk  about  20  feet  high,  erected  by  Gen.  Brown  to 
the  memory  of  Col.  E.  D.  Wood,  a  pupil  of  the  institu 
tion,  who  fell  leading  a  charge  at  the  sortie  from  Fort 
Erie,  on  the  17th  September,  1814. 

On  the  bank  of  the  Hudson  at  the  south  eastern  ex 
tremity  of  the  parade  ground,  and  several  yards  be 
neath,  is  a  spot  called  Kosciusko's  garden,  or  Koscius- 
ko's  retreat.  It  is  the  place  to  which  the  Polish  patri- 


12$  MAJOR  ANDBE. 

ot  was  accustomed  to  retire  to  study,  and  which  wa=s 
cultivated  by  his  own  hands.  Though  now  neglected, 
the  marks  of  cultivation  are  perceptible  in  the  regular 
ity  of  the  walks  and  the  arrangement  of  the  trees.  A 
more  delightful  spot  for  recreation  or  repose  cannot  bo 
imagined,  nor  one  more  suitable  as  a  retreat  from  the 
cares  of  the  great  world,  or  a  sanctuary  for  unfortunate 
patriotism  or  persecutd  virtue. 

MAJOR  ANDRE. 

The  fate  of  this  gallant  young  officer  will  ever  be  as 
sociated  with  the  scenes  at  West  Point.  It  was  here 
the  infamous  Arnold  conceived  his  traitorous  purposes 
against  the  liberties  of  his  country,  which  brought  upon 
him  the  contempt  and  execration  of  the  world,  and  cost 
the  unfortunate  Andre  his  life. 

Benedict  Arnold  was  a  native  of  the  state  of  Connec 
ticut,  and  from  the  first  commencement  of  hostilities  he 
had  distinguished  himself  as  a  brave  soldier,  and  an  en 
terprising  and  skilful  commander.  He  had  succeeded 
in  the  bold  and  difficult  attempt  to  invade  the  Canadas 
from  the  state  of  Maine,  where  the  sufferings  of  himself 
and  soldiers  had  excited  the  sensibility  of  the  nation 
towards  him.  At  Quebec,  on  Lake  Champlain  and  at 
Saratoga,  he  had  acted  a  distinguished  part ;  and  at  the 
time  of  his  appointment  to  the  command  of  West  Point, 
which  was  in  November,  1779,  he  bore  an  honorable 
testimonial  of  his  attachment  to  his  country,  in  the 
wounds  which  he  had  recently  received  at  the  surrender 
of  Burgoyne. 

The  residence  of  Gen.  Arnold  was  at  the  house  and 
farm  of  Col,  Beverly  Robinson,  opposite  West  Point,  on 


MAJOR    ANDRE.  12$ 

the  east  bank  of  the  Hudson.*  It  wa8  here  that  Gen. 
Arnold  made  the  first  proposals  to  surrender  West 
Point,  and  the  forces  under  his  command,  to  the  British 
army.  The  agents  on  the  part  of  the  British  were  Col. 
Beverly  Robinson  and  Maj.  John  Andre,  who  held  fre 
quent  communications  with  the  American  general  from 
on  board  the  Vulture  sloop  of  war,  then  lying  at  Haver- 
straw  Bay,  about  ten  miles  below  Stoney  and  Ver- 
plank's  Points. 

Major  Andre,  at  that  time  29  years  of  age,  had,  from 
the  natural  amiableness  of  his  character,  and  his  supe 
rior  accomplishments  as  a  citizen  and  a  soldier,  acquir 
ed  the  unreserved  confidence  of  his  officers,  and  was 
emphatically  considered  the  favorite  of  the  British  ar 
my.  In  early  life  he  had  formed  an  attachment  with  a 
lady  whom  he  addresses  by  the  name  of  Delia,  and  to 
whom  he  had  devoted  all  the  leisure  afforded  from  the 
intervals  of  a  mercantile  profession,  until  the  news  of 
her  marriage  with  a  more  successful  rival,  drove  him, 
disappointed  and  unfortunate,  to  the  bustling  pursuits 
of  the  camp.  His  biographer  remarks:  "There  was 
something  singularly  interesting  in  the  character  and 
fortunes  of  Andre.  To  an  excellent  understanding,  well 
improved  by  education  and  travel,  he  united  a  peculiar 
elegance  of  mind  and  manners,  and  the  advantages  of 
a  pleasing  person.  His  knowledge  appeared  without 
ostentation.  His  sentiments  were  elevated,  and  in- 


*  This  house  is  still  a  conspicuous  object.  The 
house,  also,  in  which  Arnold  fixed  his  head  quarters  at 
the  latter  place  is  still  standing,  and  is  occupied. 


124  MAJOR   ANDRE. 

spired  esteem,  as  they  had  a  softness  that  conciliated 
affection.    His  elocution  was  handsome — his  address 
easy,  polite  and  insinuating.     By  his  merit  he  had  ac 
quired  the  unlimited  confidence  of  his  general,  and  was 
making  rapid  progress  in  military  rank  and  reputation. 
But  in  the  height  of  his  career,  flushed  with  new  hopes 
from  the  execution  of  a  project  the  most  beneficial  to 
his  party  that  could  be  devised,  he  is  at  once  precipita 
ted  from  the  summit  of  prosperity,  and  sees  all  the  ex 
pectations  of  his  ambition  blasted,  and  himself  ruined." 
A  night  in  the  month  of  September,  1780,  was  chos 
en  for  the  fatal  interview  between  Arnold  and  Andre, 
Under  the  pretence  of  a  correspondence  with  the  Brit 
ish  general,  on  the  subject  of  a  treaty  of  peace,  Arnold 
had  succeeded  in  enlisting  in  his  service  an  intelligent 
and  respectable  citizen  of  the  name  of  Smith.  Under  his 
direction  a  boat  was  despatched  to  the  Vulture  sloop  of 
war,  then  lying  across  the  Bay  of  Haverstraw,  about  12 
miles  distant,  to  convey  the  British  agent  to  the  place 
appointed  by  Arnold  for  their  meeting.     On  examining 
the  papers,  it  was  found  that  a  pass  had  been  sent  for 
Col.  Beverly  Robinson,  and  also  a  blank  pass  for  whom 
soever  should  be  selected  for  the  important  trust.    In 
the  latter  pass  was  inserted  the  name  of  John  Anderson, 
under  which  name  Andre  consented  to  be  conveyed  to 
the  shore  from  whence  he  was  destined  never  to  return. 
The  place  appointed  for  the  interview  was  at  the  foot 
of  a  mountain  called  Long  Clove,  on  the  west  side  of 
the  Hudson.     Hither  Gen.  Arnold  had  repaired,  and  on 
the  arrival  of  Andre  was  found  secreted  in  a  thick  grovo 
of  firs,  the  scene  of  their  subsequent  conference.     After 
considerable  conversation,  which  lasted  till  the  dawn  oi 


MAJOR   ANDRE.  125 

day,  it  was  found  impracticable  for  Andre  to  return 
without  being  discovered  from  the  neighboring  forts  of 
Stoney  and  Verplank's  Points.  He  was,  therefore, 
conveyed  to  the  house  of  Smith,  the  person  who  had 
brought  him  to  the  shore,  and  who  afterwards  accom 
panied  him  on  his  way  to  New- York.  At  this  house  he 
procured  a  coat  in  exchange  for  his  military  dress 
which  he  had  worn  on  shore,  and  on  the  evening  of  the 
day  after  his  arrival,  set  out  in  company  with  Smith, 
and  under  a  pass  from  Gen.  Arnold,  for  White  Plains. 
The  first  night  of  their  journey  was  spent  at  a  Mr. 
M'Koy's,  about  8  miles  from  the  place  of  their  departure. 
The  next  day  they  rode,  without  any  interruption,  as 
far  as  Pine's  Bridge,  across  the  Croton  river,  which 
empties  into  the  Hudson  on  its  west  side,  at  the  head 
of  Tappan  Bay.  Here,  having  received  the  necessary 
instructions  as  to  the  road  he  was  to  take,  Andre  the 
next  morning  took  leave  of  his  guide,  and  pursued  his 
journey.  He  had  not  proceeded  more  than  six  miles, 
when  he  was  arrested  by  three  militia-men  by  the 
names  of  Paulding,  Williams  and  Van  Wart,  who,  with 
others,  were  on  a  scouting  party  between  the  out-posts 
of  the  two  armies.  These  men  stopped  Major  Andre 
in  a  narrow  part  of  the  road,  at  a  place  near  Tarrytown, 
by  suddenly  seizing  his  horse  by  the  bridle.  Instead  of 
immediately  producing  the  pass  which  had  been  furnish 
ed  him  by  Gen.  Arnold,  Andre  inquired  where  they  be 
longed  to  ?  They  answered,  "  To  below."  Not  sus 
pecting  any  deception,  he  replied,  "  So  do  I ;"  and  de 
claring  himself  to  be  a  British  officer,  he  entreated  that 
he  might  not  be  detained,  being  on  pressing  business. 
This  declaration  was  followed  by  further  inquiries, 


126  MAJOR   ANDRE. 

which  excited  Btill  more  suspicion,  and  at  length  indu 
ced  a  resolution  on  their  part  to  detain  him.  Finding 
himself  thus  surprized,  and  a  prisoner,  he  made  use  of 
every  persuasion  to  regain  his  liberty,  and  offered  a  very 
valuable  gold  watch  for  his  release  ;  but  it  was  all  to 
no  effect.  They  asked  for  his  papers,  which  being  re 
fused,  they  commenced  searching  him,  and  memoran 
dums,  in  Arnold's  hand-writing,  relating  to  the  forces 
and  defences  of  West  Point,  were  found  concealed  in 
his  boots. 

Despatches  were  immediately  forwarded  to  General 
Washington,  together  with  a  letter  from  Major  Andre 
to  General  Arnold,  apprizing  him  of  his  arrest  and  de 
tention.  In  consequence  of  some  mistake  of  the  mes 
senger,  information  of  the  circumstances  reached  Ar 
nold  some  time  before  Washington  was  apprized  at  all 
of  them.  Upon  the  receipt  of  the  letter,  Arnold  seized 
the  messenger's  horse,  and  immediately  proceeded 
down  a  precipice  to  the  river,  where  boats  were  al 
ways  ready  to  pass  to  and  from  West  Point,  and  jump 
ing  into  one  of  them,  he  directed  the  hands  to  row  him 
down  the  river  to  the  Vulture  sloop  of  war.  In  the 
mean  time  information  had  been  received  by  Washing 
ton,  and  scarce  had  Arnold  passed  Stoney  and  Ver- 
plank's  Points  when  Col.  Hamilton  arrived  at  the  latter 
place  with  orders  to  stop  him. 

Andre  was  arrested  on  the  23d  of  September  ;  and  a 
board  of  general  officers  were  immediately  summoned, 
by  order  of  Gen.  Washington,  for  his  trial.  The  cir 
cumstances  of  the  case  were  the  subject  of  much  ex 
citement  in  both  the  American  and  British  armies,  and 
created  much  sympathy  in  favor  of  Andre.  After  an 


POLLOPEL   ISLAND.  127 

inquiry  of  a  number  of  days,  the  court  determined  that 
Andre  ought  to  be  considered  as  a  spy  from  the  enemy, 
and  that,  agreeably  to  the  law  and  usage  of  nations,  he 
ought  to  suffer  death. 

This  sentence  was  protested  against,  on  the  ground 
that  Andre  had  been  admitted  into  the  American  camp 
under  the  protection  of  a  flag,  and  at  the  immediate  in 
stance  of  Arnold,  the  commanding  officer  of  the  district, 
whose  safe  passport  and  return  he  had  a  right  to  de 
mand.  But  the  sentence  was  consented  to  be  waived 
only  on  condition  of  delivering  Arnold  into  the  custody 
of  the  American  army  ;  which  being  refused  by  the 
British  general,  Andre  was  executed  on  the  2d  of  Octo 
ber,  1780,  at  Tappan  or  Orangetown,  where  his  remains 
were  deposited. 

A  respect  to  his  memory  induced  the  British  govern 
ment,  a  few  years  since,  to  convey  his  remains  to  Eng 
land,  where  they  were  deposited  in  the  family  vault  of 
the  prince  regent,  the  now  reigning  monarch,  George 
IV.  The  place  of  his  interment  on  the  Hudson  was 
marked  by  a  solitary  cypress.  On  opening  the  re 
mains,  it  was  discovered  that  the  roots  of  the  cypress 
had  entwined  their  branches  around  the  skull  of  the  de 
ceased.  The  tree,  it  is  said,  now  serves  to  embellish 
the  private  garden  of  George  IV. 

The  four  surviving  children  of  Gen.  Arnold  have  be 
come  pensioners  of  Great  Britain,  and  receive  annuities 
of  £100  sterling  each. 

POLLOPEL  ISLAND  is  situate  at  the  northern  en 
trance  of  the  Highlands,  6  miles  above  West  Point.  It 
consists  of  a  mass  of  rock,  and  rises  near  the  centre  of 


123  NEWBURGH. 

the  tivef ,  between  Breakneck  Hill  on  the  east  and  But 
ter  Hill  on  the  west  The  altitude  of  the  latter  is  1520 
fcet — the  former  le  1187  feet  in  height,  and  contains 
the  rock  called  the  Upper  Anthony's  Nose* 

NEW-WINDSOR.  Passing  the  Highlands,  the  pros 
pect  changes  into  a  very  agreeable  contrast.  The  bay 
of  Newburgh  with  the  village  of  the  same  name,  and 
New- Windsor,  and  on  the  opposite  shore  the  village  of 
Fishkill,  with  its  numerous  adjacent  manufactories  and 
country  seats,  together  with  a  view  of  the  Hudson  for 
many  miles  above,  form  a  prospect  which  cannot  fail 
to  impart  much  interest.  The  village  of  New- Windsor 
stands  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  7  miles  from  West 
Point.  It  is  calculated  for  a  pleasant  place  of  res 
idence,  but  in  business  it  must  yield  to  the  rival  vil 
lage  of 

NEWBURGH.  This  is  an  incorporated  village,  situa 
ted  on  the  declivity  of  a  hill  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Hudson,  10  miles  north  from  West  Point,  and  84  south 
from  Albany.  It  contains  about  600  houses,  and  a 
population  of  4000  inhabitants.  From  its  situation  it 
commands  an  extensive  intercourse  and  trade  with  the 
country  on  the  west,  and,  by  means  of  the  Hudson  riv 
er,  with  New- York.  This  place  was  for  some  time  the 
head  quarters  of  the  American  army  during  the  revolu 
tionary  war  j  and  the  "  stone  house"  in  which  Gen. 
Washington  quartered  is  still  standing.  On  the  oppo 
site  side  of  the  river  from  Newburgh  is  Beacon  Hill, 
one  of  the  highest  summits  of  the  Fishkill  mountains, 
where  parties  of  pleasure  frequently  resort,  in  the  sum 
mer  season,  to  witness  an  extent  of  prospect  including 


HYDE   PARK    LANDING.  129 

a  part  of  the  territories  of  five  different  states.  This  hill 
is  1471  feet  in  height.  Half  a  mile  south  is  the  New 
Beacon,  or  Grand  Sachem,  1685  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  Hudson.  They  are  called  Beacon  Hills,  from  the 
circumstance  that  beacons  were  erected  on  their  sum 
mits  during  the  revolutionary  war.  The  continuation 
of  this  chain  of  mountains  is  lost  in  the  Appalachian 
Range  on  the  north  east,  and  extends  south  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach.  Diminished  in  distance,  is  seen 
West  Point,  environed  by  mountains,  apparently  repo 
sing  on  the  surface  of  the  Hudson,  and  bathing  their 
rocky  summits  in  the  clouds. 

MILTON, 'is  a  small  hamlet,  situated  on  the  west  side 
of  the  Hudson  river,  in  the  town  of  Marlborough,  11 
miles  from  Newburgh.  This  place  is  called  the  half 
way  place  between  New- York  and  Albany,  being  72 
1-2  miles  distant  from  each.  Two  and  a  half  miles 
south  of  Milton,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Hudson,  is  the 
mansion  house  of  the  late  Governor^  George  Clinton. 

POUGHKEEPSIE,  15  miles  north  of  Newburgh,  is  sit 
uated  one  mile  east  from  the  Hudson,  on  the  post 
road  from  Albany  to  New- York,  and  was  incorporated 
in  1801.  The  village  is  about  the  same  size  of  New 
burgh,  handsomely  located,  and  a  place  of  considera 
ble  trade.  It  is  laid  out  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  the  two 
principal  streets  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles. 
A  road  leads  down  a  long  steep  hill  from  Poughkeep- 
sie  to  the  landing  on  the  Hudson  river.  This  landing 
is  3  miles  above  Milton.  About  6  miles  farther  north  is 

HYDE  PARK  LANDING,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Hud 
son  river,  near  which  are  a  number  of  country  seats. 


ISO  CATSKILL. 

The  first  is  the  mansion  of  Judge  Pendleton — one  mile 
farther  is  the  seat  of  H.  Wilkes,  Esq. — from  thence  3 
miles  up  the  river,  stands  the  residence  of  Gen.  M. 
Lewis,  where  is  a  landing  place,  leading  to  Staatsberg, 
one  mile  distant,  in  the  town  of  Hyde  Park.  Two 
miles  farther  north  is  the  residence  of  R.  Tillotson,  Esq. 
From  thence  to  Rhinebeck  Landing  is  3  miles* — thence 
to  Rcdhook  Lower  Landing,  where  are  the  mansions 
of  J.  R.  Livingston  and  W.  Radcliff,  is  7  miles — thence 
to  Redhook  Upper  Landing,  3  miles — thence  2  miles 
to  the  seat  of  the  late  Chancellor  Livingston — thence  7 
miles  to  the  manor  house  of  the  late  Lord  Livingston — 
thence  one  mile  to  Oakhill,  the  residence  of  the  late 
J.  Livingston,  now  possessed  by  Harmon  Livingston, 
Esq. — thence  one  mile  to 

CATSKILL.  This  village  takes  its  name  from  a  large 
creek  which  flows  through  it,  and  empties  into  the 
Hudson  at  that  place.  It  is  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  river,  32  miles  from  Albany,  and  contains  about 
two  hundred  and  fifty  dwellings,  and  2000  inhabitants. 
On  Catskill  creek  are  already  a  number  of  mills  and 
manufactories,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  vil- 

*  Near  this  place,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  is  the 
commencement  of  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  canal.  It 
extends  in  a  south-westwardly  direction  to  the  forks  of 
the  Dyberry  on  the  Lackawaxen  river,  Pennsylvania, 
distance  103  miles,  lockage  1438  feet.  It  was  origin 
ally  intended  by  the  company  to  have  extended  this 
canal  to  Keen's  pond,  13  miles  from  its  present  termin 
ation,  but  it  has  been  abandoned  and  a  rail  road  sub 
stituted,  which  extends  3  miles  west  of  Keen's  pond  to 
the  Anthracite  coal  mines  of  Pennsylvania. 


PINE  ORCHARD.  131 

lage  is  highly  flattering1,  as  it  respects  its  future  growth 
and  prosperity.  This  village  is  in  the  immediate  neigh 
borhood  of  the  Katsbergs  or  Catksill  mountains,  which 
are  seen  for  many  miles  along  the  Hudson,  and  here 
assume  a  truly  majestic  and  sublime  appearance.  The 
highest  elevation  of  this  range  of  mountains  is  in  the 
county  of  Greene,  from  8  to  12  miles  distant  from  the 
river,  including  the  Round  Top,  3804  feet,  and  High 
Peak,  3718  feet  in  height.  The  village  of  Catskill, 
which  has  hitherto  been  visited,  principally  by  men  of 
business,  has  recently  become  the  resort  of  people  of 
fashion  and  pleasure,  who  design  a  tour  to  the 

PINE  ORCHARD,  a  place  which,  for  five  or  six  years 
past,  has  attracted  the  attention  of  all  classes  of  men, 
and  still  continues  to  draw  to  it  numbers  of  those  who 
are  fond  of  novelty,  and  especially  of  the  sublime  and   * 
romantic  scenery  in  which  it  abounds.    Regular  stages 
leave  Catskill  for  the  Pine  Orchard  twice  a  day.    The 
fare  is  the  moderate  price  of  one  dollar.     The  whole 
distance  is  12  miles,  computed  as  follows :  From  the 
village  to  Lawrence's  tavern,  7  miles — from  thence  to 
the  foot  of  the  mountain,  2  miles — from  thence  to  Pine 
Orchard,  3  miles.    This  distance  is  passed,  in  going,  in 
about  4  hours — in  returning,  in  about  2  hours.    The 
country  through  which  the  road  passes  has  nothing  in 
teresting  in  its  appearance,  until  it  reaches  the  moun 
tain,  being  generally  uneven  and  barren,  and  diversi 
fied  with  but  one  or  two  comparatively  small  spots  of 
cultivation,  upon  which  the  eye  can  rest  with  satisfac 
tion.     A  short  time  is  usually  taken  up  at  Lawrence's, 
for  the  purpose  of  refreshment,  before  encountering  the 


132  PINE  ORCHARD. 

rugged  ascent  of  the  mountains.  This  part  of  the  road 
is  generally  good,  but  circuitous,  and  often  passes  on 
the  brink  of  some  deep  ravine,  or  at  the  foot  of  some 
frowning  precipice,  inspiring  at  times  an  unwelcome 
degree  of  terror.  The  rock  upon  which  stands  the  ho 
tel  of  Mr.  Charles  H.  Webb,  forms  a  circular  platform, 
is  of  an  uneven  surface,  and  includes  about  six  acres. 
It  is  elevated  above  the  Hudson  upwards  of  2200  feet.* 
The  Hotel  is  140  feet  in  length,  24  feet  in  width,  and  4 
stories  high,  and  has  piazzas  in  front  the  whole  length, 
and  a  wing  extending  in  the  rear  for  lodging  rooms. 


*  Capt.  Patridge,  who  visited  the  Catskill  moun 
tains  in  1S2S,  made  the  following  barometrical  observa 
tions  : 

Altitude  of  the  Mountain  House,  at  the  Pine  Or 
chard,  above  the  surface  of  the  Hudson  river  at  Cats- 
kill  village,  22 12  feet. 

Do.  of  the  same  above  site  of  Lawrence's  tavern,  7 
miles  from  Catskill,  lS82feet. 

Do.  of  the  same  above  the  turnpike  gate  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountain,  1574  feet. 

Do.  of  the  same  above  Green's  bridge,  947  feet. 

The  foregoing  results  were  derived  from  a  series  of 
barometrical  and  thermometrical  observations,  made  on 
the  17th  July,  1828.  The  altitude  of  the  Mountain 
House,  as  above  stated,  was  the  result  of  two  distinct 
series  of  observations,  made  in  going  from  the  Catskill 
village  to  the  house,  and  returning  from  the  same  to  the 
village.  The  ascending  series  gave  an  altitude  of  2225 
feet,  and  the  descending  series  an  altitude  of  2203  feet. 
The  mean  of  these  two  extremes  gives  2212  feet.  This 
result  Capt.  P.  considersed  as  a  very  near  approxima 
tion  to  the  true  altitude. 


PINE  ORCHARD.  183 

The  building  is  owned  by  the  "  Catskill  Mountain  As 
sociation,"  an  incorporated  company,  with  a  capital 
of  $10,000.  It  is  well  furnished,  and  possesses  every 
convenience  and  accommodation  requisite  to  the  com 
fort  and  good  cheer  of  its  numerous  guests.  The  pros 
pect  from  Pine  Orchard  embraces  a  greater  extent  and 
more  diversity  of  scenery  than  is  to  be  found  in  any 
other  part  of  the  state,  or  perhaps  in  the  United  States. 
The  vast  variety  of  fields,  farms,  villages,  towns  and 
cities  between  the  green  mountains  of  Vermont  on  the 
north,  the  highlands  on  the  south,  and  the  Taghkanick 
mountains  on  the  east,  together  with  the  Hudson  river, 
studded  with  islands  and  vessels,  some  of  which  may 
be  seen  at  even  the  distance  of  60  miles,  are  apparent  in 
a  clear  atmosphere  to  the  naked  eye ;  and  when  the 
scene  is  gradually  unfolded,  at  the  opening  of  the  day, 
it  assumes  rather  the  appearance  of  enchantment  than 
a  reality.  It  is  not  uncommon,  at  this  place,  to  wit 
ness  storms  of  snow  and  rain  in  their  reasons,  midway 
the  mountain,  while  all  is  clear  and  serene  on  its  sum 
mit.  About  two  miles  from  the  Hotel,  are  the  KAAT- 
ERSKILL  FALLS,  which  take  their  name  from  the  stream 
on  which  they  are  situated.  This  stream  takes  its  rise 
from  two  small  lakes,  half  a  mile  in  the  rear  of  the  Ho 
tel  ;  and  after  a  westerly  course  of  a  mile  and  a  half, 
the  waters  fall  perpendicularly  175  feet,  and  after  paus 
ing  a  moment  on  a  projection  of  the  rock,  plunge  again 
down  a  precipice  of  85  feet  more,  making  the  whole  de 
scent  of  the  falls  260  feet.  The  road  to  the  falls  is  ex 
tremely  rough  ;  but  this  objection  will  hardly  deter  the 
traveller  from  a  visit  to  a  spot  so  novel  and  romantic. 


1S4  HUDSON COXSACK1E  LANDING. 

ATHENS,  five  miles  above  Catskill,  is  an  incorporated 
village,  and  contains  1000  inhabitants.  Its  situation, 
on  a  gentle  slope  of  land,  rising  gradually  from  the  riv 
er,  gives  it  a  very  favorable  appearance.  The  vicinity 
of  Athens  to  Hudson,  immediately  opposite,  seems  to 
forbid  that  importance  in  point  of  trade,  its  location 
might  otherwise  warrant.  Athens  furnishes  a  number 
of  beautiful  scites  on  the  bank  of  the  river ;  some  of 
which  are  already  occupied  by  the  elegant  mansions  of 
private  gentlemen. 

The  CITY  OF  HUDSON  stands  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  27  miles  south  from  Albany.  The  plain  on  which 
Hudson  is  situated  rises  abruptly  from  the  river,  by 
banks  from  50  to  60  feet  in  height ;  and  terminates  on 
the  east,  at  the  foot  of  high  lands,  which  overlook  the 
city  at  an  elevation  of  some  hundred  feet,  and  furnish 
a  prospect  of  the  Hndson  river  and  scenery  for  many 
miles  in  extent.    The  city  contains  a  population  of 
about  7000  inhabitants,    and    is  daily  increasing  in 
wealth,  population  and  commerce.     Claverack  creek 
on  the  east,  and  Kinderhook  creek  on  the  north,  afford 
every  facility  for  mills  and  manufactories,   in  which 
Hudson  abounds ;  and  which  have  entitled  it  to  the 
third  rank,  in  manufactures,  in  the  state.     On  the  op 
posite  side  of  the  Hudson  appear  a  number  of  country 
seats  with  the  farm  houses  and  cultivation  in  the  neigh 
borhood  of  Athens  and  Catskill,  bounded  by  the  lofty 
Katsberghs,  rising  in  the  back  ground  and  mingling 
their  rugged  summits  with  the  clouds. 

COXSACKIE  LANDING,  where  are  several  houses  and 
stores,  is  eight  miles  north  of  Hudson.  From  thence 
to  Kinderhook  landing  is  1  mile.  Here  are  about  25 


ALBANY.  135 

dwellings  and  a  post  office.  The  village  of  Kinder- 
hook  is  situated  5  miles  east.  Five  miles  further 
north,  is  the  village  of  New-Baltimore ;  thence  to  Coey- 
mans,  2  miles — thence  to  Schodac  village,rf2  miles — 
thence  to  Castleton  landing,  2  miles — thence  to  Alba 
ny  8  miles. 

ALBANY 

Is  the  capital  of  the  state  of  New- York,  and  in  point 
of  wealth,  population,  trade  and  resources,  is  the  sec 
ond  city  in  the  state,  and  the  sixth  or  seventh  in  the 
Union.  It  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson 
river,  and  near  the  head  of  tide  water.  It  was  settled 
in  1612 ;  and  next  to  Jamestown  in  Virginia,  is  the 
oldest  settlement  in  the  U.  S.  In  1614,  a  small  fort 
and  trading  house  were  built  by  the  Dutch  on  an  isl 
and  half  a  mile  below  the  scite  of  the  present  city ;  and 
goon  aftewards  fort  Orange  where  the  city  now  stands. 
The  place  was  first  called  Aurania ;  then  Beverwyck 
till  1625  ;  then  Fort  Orange  till  1647,  and  Williamstadt 
till  1664.  For  a  long  time  after  its  foundation  it  was 
enclosed  with  palisadoes  or  pickets,  as  a  defence  against 
the  Indians,  who  were  then  numerous  and  powerful  in 
its  vicinity.  Its  charter  was  granted  in  the  year  1686, 
and  embraced  an  area  of  7160  acres.  A  great  propor 
tion  of  its  soil  is  sandy  and  unproductive,  and  under  no 
system  of  useful  cultivation. 

Though  the  first  appearance  of  this  city  is  not 
prepossessing  to  a  stranger,  still  the  taste  which  has 
been  displayed  in  the  construction  of  its  public  and 
private  buildings — the  constant  din  of  commercial  bu 
siness  which  assails  the  ear  of  the  traveller — the  ter 
mination  of  the  Erie  canal  at  this  place,  and  many 


136  ALBANY. 

other  attendant  circumstances,  render  Albany  an  im 
portant  and  interesting  spot. 

The  town  is  divided  into  five  wards,  and  contains 
many  superb  and  elegant  buildings.  The  principal 
streets  are  Market,  Pearl,  and  State  streets.  The  two 
former  run  parallel  with  the  river,  and  the  latter  is  a 
spacious  one,  extending  from  the  Capitol  to  the  Hud 
son,  nearly  east  and  west.  Besides  these,  there  are 
many  other  streets,  less  considerable  in  extent,  but 
populous,  and  crowded  with  shops  and  stores. 

The  CAPITOL,  which  contains  the  legislative  halls, 
the  common  council  chamber  of  the  corporation,  the 
supreme  and  chancery  court  rooms  of  the  state,  the 
county  clerk's  office,  the  state  library,  and  other 
apartments  for  public  business,  stands  at  the  head  of 
State  street,  on  an  elevation  of  130  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  river.  It  is  a  substantial  stone  edifice,  erected 
at  the  expense  of  $120,000;  of  which  sum,  $34,000 
was  paid  by  the  corporation  of  the  city.  It  is  115  feet 
in  length,  90  in  breadth,  and  is  50  high,  consisting  of 
two  stories,  and  a  basement  of  10  feet.  The  east  front 
is  adorned  with  a  portico  of  the  Ionic  order,  having  4 
magnificent  columns,  3  feet  8  inches  in  diameter,  and 
33  feet  in  height.  In  the  senate  and  assembly  cham 
bers  and  in  the  room  used  for  holding  the  court  of 
chancery  are  full  length  portraits  of  Washington,  of 
the  various  executives  who  have  administered  the  gov 
ernment  of  the  state,  and  of  Abraham  Van  Vechten, 
Esq.  an  eminent  counsellor  at  law  residing  in  Albany. 
There  is  also  in  the  senate  chamber  a  good  bust  of 
Doct.  Franklin. 


ALBANY,  187 

The  PUBLIC  SQUARE,  on  the  S.  W.  of  which  stands 
the  Capitol,  is  arranged  in  the  style  of  a  park,  and  has 
several  delightful  walks  and  avenues. 

North  of  the  Capitol,  stands  the  ACADEMY,  the  most 
elegantly  constructed  and  executed  building  in  the  city. 
It  cost  about  $92,000  exclusive  of  the  lot  on  which  it  is 
erected,  and  some  donations.  It  is  built  of  free  stone, 
3  stories  in  height,  and  90  feet  in  front.  It  is  one  of 
the  most  flourishing  institutions  in  the  state;  has  5 
teachers  and  about  140  students. 

The  STATE  HALL,  for  the  offices  of  the  secretary  of 
state,  comptroller,  treasurer,  surveyor-general,  attor 
ney-general,  and  clerk  of  the  supreme  court,  is  sit 
uated  on  the  south  side  of  State-street,  nearly  equi 
distant  from  the  Capitol  and  the  Albany,  Farmers'  and 
Mechanics'  Banks  ;  both  of  which  stand  at  the  foot  of 
State-street,  and  are  elegant  white  marble  edifices. 
There  are  in  this  city  4  banks  and  14  houses  for  public 
worship.  Also  a  large  brick  building  for  the  Lancas 
ter  school,  a  theatre  in  South  Pearl  street,  an  athe- 
neum,  and  an  arsenal  in  North  Market  street.  The 
museum  is  in  South  Market  street,  and  is  one  of  the 
best  in  the  country. 

The  AMERICAN  HOTEL,  kept  by  Mr.  Drake  in  State 
street,  about  equi-distant  from  the  capitol  and  the  foot 
of  the  street,  is  one  of  the  best  public  houses  in  the 
Union.  The  building  is  5  stories  high,  besides  the 
base,  presenting  an  exterior  of  stucco  work,  and  is  cal 
culated  to  accommodate  from  80  to  100  guests.  Its 
parlours,  dining  and  lodging-rooms  are  spacious  and 
richly  furnished ;  and  every  thing  connected  with  the 


138  ALBANT. 

house  is  calculated  to  render  it  an  elegant  and  desir 
able  resting  place  for  a  stranger.  The  keeper,  Mr. 
Drake,  was  a  former  proprietor  of  Congress  Hall  at 
Saratoga  Springs,  at  which  place  he  gained  much  ce 
lebrity  for  his  skill  and  taste  as  a  conductor  of  an  ex 
tensive  public  establishment. 

The  other  principal  hotels  are,  the  Mansion  Houses 
and  City  Hotel  in  North  Market  street,  the  State  Street 
House  in  State  street,  Cruttenden's,  near  the  Capitol, 
and  the  Eagle  Tavern  in  South  Market  street ;  which 
are  furnished  and  kept  in  superior  style,  reflecting  equal 
credit  upon  the  city  and  the  proprietors. 

During  the  sessions  of  the  New- York  legislature, 
Albany  is  crowded  with  strangers,  and  contains  much 
of  the  legal  talent  and  learning  of  the  state. 

The  city  is  supplied  with  water  from  a  distance  of  3 
miles.  It  is  eligibly  situated  for  trade,  being  the  great 
thorough  fare  for  the  northern  and  western  sections  of 
the  state. 

The  ALBANY  BASIN,  where  the  waters  of  the  canal 
unite  with  the  Hudson,  consists  of  a  part  of  the  river 
included  between  the  shore  and  an  artificial  pier  erect 
ed  80  feet  in  width  and  4,300  feet  in  length.  The  pier 
contains  about  8  acres,  and  is  connected  with  the  city 
by  draw  bridges.  It  is  a  grand  and  stupendous  work, 
on  which  spacious  and  extensive  stores  have  been 
erected,  and  where  an  immense  quantity  of  lumber  and 
other  articles  of  trade  are  deposited.  Is  original  cost 
was  $130,000,  and  the  different  lots  were  sold  at  pub 
lic  auction  at  a  considerable  advance.  The  basin  cov 
ers  a  surface  of  32  acres. 


ALBANY.  139 

A  mineral  spring  was  discovered  in  Albany  a  few 
years  since,  by  boring  through  a  slate  rock  to  the 
depth  of  500  feet.  The  partners  in  this,  however,  hav 
ing  disagreed,  one  of  them,  (McCulloch,  a  Scotchman) 
commenced  boring  on  his  own  account,  in  the  same 
neighborhood,  and  at  the  depth  of  617  feet  struck  upon 
another,  much  superior  in  its  qualities,  and  approach 
ing  more  nearly  to  the  Congress  Spring  at  Saratoga 
than  any  other  in  the  United  States.  It  contains  rather 
more  muriate  of  soda,  and  is  an  active  carthartic.  Its 
taste  is  much  more  disagreeable  than  the  Congress 
Spring,  which  is  attributed  to  the  iron  contained  in  it. 
The  gas  escaping  from  it  is  highly  combustible,  burning 
furiously  on  the  application  of  a  burning  paper  to  the 
water  when  running  from  the  vent.  The  spring  is  en 
closed  in  a  handsome  garden,  and  is  a  place  of  fashion 
able  resort  for  citizens  and  strangers. 

The  environs  of  Albany  are  pleasant,  affording  many 
delightful  walks  and  rides,  and  the  adjacent  cities  of 
Troy  and  Schenectady,  and  the  villages  of  Lansing- 
burgh  and  Waterford,  the  Cohoes  Falls,  the  Shaker 
settlement  at  Niskayuna,  &c.  furnish  points  for  short 
and  interesting  excursions.  But  perhaps  nothing  in 
the  vicinity  of  Albany  will  afford  more  pleasure  to  the 
tourist,  than  a  visit  to  the  highly  cultivated 

FARM  OF  J.  BUELL,  Esq.*  about  2  miles  west  of  the 
capitol  on  the  Cherry  Valley  turnpike.  This  farm,  con 
sisting  of  80  acres,  has  been  wholly  reclaimed  from 
commons  since  1818,  and  is  now  under  profitable  cul- 


*  Formerly  editor  of  the  Albany  Argus. 

M 


140  ALBANY. 

tivation.  Mr.  B.  possessed  the  first  requisite  for  im 
provement — a  consciousness  of  the  want  of  knowledge  in 
his  new  employment.  He  diligently  sought  for  this 
knowledge  in  the  practice  of  the  best  farmers,  and  in 
the  study  of  the  sciences  upon  which  agriculture  is 
based  ;  directing  and  superintending  himself  the  labors 
of  his  farm.  His  improvements  consist  in  selecting  the 
best  implements  adapted  to  his  soil — in  substituting 
fallow  crops  for  naked  fallows — in  extensively  and  suc 
cessfully  cultivating  the  Swedish  and  common  turnip 
05  a  second  crop,  after  clover  and  small  grains — in  in 
troducing  new  and  valuable  grasses — in  the  cultiva 
tion  of  live  fences,  which  he  has  growing  of  the  white 
European  thorn,  of  the  native  thorn  of  our  woods,  and 
of  the  three  thorned  or  honey  locust — and  in  the  econ 
omy  and  application  of  ordinary,  and  the  use  of  new 
manures.  His  object  has  been  to  grow  only  good 
crops,  and  these  with  the  least  expense.  In  1827,  he 
sold  from  64  acres  in  tillage  and  grass,  under  farm  cul 
ture,  produce  to  the  amount  of  more  than  $1500,  ex 
clusive  of  the  consumption  of  a  large  family.  His 
kitchen  and  flower  gardens,  abounding  in  the  finest 
native  and  foreign  fruits,  ornamental  trees,  shrubs  and 
flowers,  will  also  be  visited  with  interest.  Upon  the 
same  farm  is  the 

ALBANY  NURSERY,  which  is  under  the  management 
of  Messrs.  Buell  &  Wilson.  It  already  covers  10  or  12 
acres,  and  is  extended  annually,  embracing  not  only 
the  most  choice  American  fruits  and  ornamental  plants, 
but  also  the  finer  varieties  of  France,  Germany,  Eng 
land,  &c.  many  of  which  have  been  received  from  the 
London  Horticultural  Society,  of  which  Mr,  B.  was 


SHAKER    SETTLEMENT.  141 

elected  a  corresponding  member  in  1824  Attached  to 
this  establishment  is  a  green  house,  containing  an  ex 
tensive  collection  of  beautiful  exotics,  among  which 
are  several  varieties  of  the  splendid  Cornelia  or  Japan 
rose,  and  other  rare  Asiatic  plants.  There  are  few 
establishments  of  the  kind,  indeed,  in  the  country,  pos 
sessing  more  interest,  or  entitling  their  proprietors  to 
greater  commendation. 

The  SHAKER  SETTLEMENT  at  Niskayuna,  is  8  miles 
north-west  of  Albany*  A  visit  to  these  singular  people 
is  well  deserving  the  attention  of  the  traveller.  The 
Shakers  are  the  followers  of  Ann  Lee,  called  by  them 
Mother  Ann,  a  religious  enthusiast,,  who  was  born  in 
England  some  time  antecedent  to  the  revolutionary 
war,  and  while  yet  in  her  youth,  suffered  much  tribu 
lation,  and  deep  exercises  of  spirit,  in  her  conversion 
from  the  sin  of  this  world  to  a  state  of  greater  perfec 
tion.  She  endured  severe  trials  and  much  persecu 
tion,  according  to  her  own  account,  from  her  country 
men  ;  but  was  afterwards  favored  with  visions  and 
an  exhibition  of  miracles  in  her  favor.  Although  in 
early  life  herself  the  wife  of  a  poor  blacksmith,  the 
principal  tenet  of  her  creed  is  absolute  and  entire  celib 
acy,  which  is  defended  on  various  spiritual  grounds, 
and  fully  set  forth  in  a  work  recently  published  by  the 
society.  In  consequence  of  the  persecutions  experi 
enced  by  mother  Ann  in  England,  she  came  to  this 
country  and  established  a  small  society  which  has  been 
followed  by  the  establishment  of  others,  of  which  this  is 
one.  Her  followers  regard  her  memory  with  pious  ven 
eration,  and  consider  themselves  as  the  only  people  in 
possession  of  the  true  light.  Some  of  the  oldest  ami 


142  SHAKER    SETTLEMENT. 

most  perfect  members,  it  is  said,  pretend  to  "  speak 
with  tongues,"  heal  diseases  by  a  touch,  &c.  The 
marriage  contract  is  dissolved  on  joining  their  society  ; 
their  association  is  a  perfect  community  of  goods,  all 
private  property  being  thrown  into  the  common  stock, 
and  they  profess  to  banish  the  love  of  ambition,  wealth 
and  luxury  from  their  gloomy  territories. 

They  own  at  this  place  two  thousand  acres  of  ex 
cellent  land,  laid  out  and  kept  in  the  order,  neatness 
and  cleanliness,  which  always  distinguish  their  sect. 
This  is  divided  into  four  farms,  or  families,  as  they  are 
called,  occupied  by  about  seventy-five  persons  each,  of 
both  sexes  and  all  ages.  They  cultivate  garden  stuffs, 
seeds,  &c.  for  sale,  as  well  as  every  thing  necessary  for 
their  own  support,  and  they  manufacture  various  use 
ful  and  ornamental  articles.  These,  as  well  as  the  sur 
plus  produce  of  the  farm,  are  sold  and  the  avails  de 
posited  in  one  of  the  Albany  banks  until  required. 
The  division  of  labor  which  they  carry  into  practice, 
every  occupation  being  entrusted  to  separate  members, 
and  their  economical  habits,  render  their  gains  very 
considerable.  The  men  work  as  farmers,  carpenters, 
shoemakers,  tailors,  &c. ;  the  women  at  weaving,  spin 
ning,  washing,  cooking  and  in  the  duties  of  the  farm, 
making  and  mending  clothes,  the  occupations  of  each 
sex  being  performed  in  separate  buildings.  They 
also  eat  separately,  and  neither  of  them  will  sit  down 
to  a  meal  with  what  they  call  the  "  world's  people.1' 
The  dress  of  the  men  is  the  usual  quaker  drab,  perfect 
ly  plain ;  that  of  the  women  grey,  with  white  caps,  all 
made  as  plain  and  easy  as  possible.  They  all  have  a 
peculiar  walk,  but  especially  the  females,  in  conse 
quence  of  their  mode  of  worship,  from  which  they  de- 


SHAKER    SETTLEMENT.  143 

rive  their  name  of  Shakers,  a  strange  and  disagreeable 
mode  of  dancing,  accompanied  with  a  monotonous 
song.  The  young  members  of  the  community  are 
regularly  taught  the  steps  in  this  dance  by  the  older 
ones,  before  they  are  permitted  to  join  in  public  wor 
ship.  It  is  usual  before  the  admission  of  a  member  to 
all  the  privileges  of  the  society,  to  impose  a  noviciate 
of  three  months,  when  if  he  so  desires  he  may  leave 
them  ;  if  not  he  is  regularly  admitted  a  member,  and 
throws  his  property  into  the  common  stock. 

Notwithstanding  the  severity  of  their  discipline  as  to 
celibacy,  it  is  said  the  harmony  of  their  society  was 
lately  much  disturbed  in  consequence  of  a  "love  af 
fair."  A  young  man  and  woman,  both  belonging  to 
the  society,  in  despite  of  the  doctrines  of  their  leader, 
fell  from  their  estate  of  "  single  blessedness,"  and  yield 
ed  to  a  worldly  attachment.  This  heresy,  as  might  be 
expected,  produced  considerable  commotion.  The 
members  wrestled  with  the  tempter,  and  the  elders 
prayed  for  and  with  the  victims  to  the  dreaded  enemy 
of  the  sect ;  but  all  to  no  purpose.  They  left  the  so 
ciety  and  were  married.  It  is  creditable,  however, 
to  the  members,  that  after  finding  their  efforts  to  pre 
vent  this  result  unavailing,  they  sent  the  happy  pair 
sufficient  furniture  for  comfortable  house-keeping,  as 
signing  as  a  reason  that  they  had  labored  for  the  so 
ciety,  and  that  it  was  no  more  than  justice  to  reward 
them.* 


*  Since  the  foregoing  event,  we  are  told  another  de- 
rilection  from  the  rules  of  Mother  Ann  has  taken  place 
in  the  society,  which  also  resulted  in  marriage. 

M2 


144         TIIOM   ALDANY   TO    SARATOGA   6PRING8. 

STAGES. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  place  in  the  union  from  which  sta 
ges  leave  in  so  many  directions,  and  are  so  well  arran 
ged,  as  at  Albany.  The  best  of  horses  and  carriages 
and  careful  drivers  are  generally  employed,  and  every 
attention  is  paid  to  the  comfort  and  convenience  of 
travellers.  Among  the  lines  may  be  enumerated  three 
or  four  daily  stages  to  Utica  and  Buffalo ;  about  the 
same  number  to  Boston,  passing  on  different  roads ; 
and  the  same  number  to  Whitehall  on  Lake  Champlain. 
A  daily  line  is  also  established  between  Albany  and  the 
Springs  throughout  the  year,  and  several  daily  lines  dur 
ing  the  summer  months.  These  generally  leave  about 
9  o'clock  A.  M.  after  the  arrival  of  the  morning  boats 
from  New- York,  and  at  2  P.  M.  Fare  from  $1,50 
to  $2. 

FROM  ALBANY  TO  SARATOGA  SPRINGS, 

The  distance  (via  Ballston  Spa)  is  37  miles,  and  the 
intermediate  distances  as  follows : 


Miles. 

Troy, 6 

Lansingburgh, 3 

Waterford, 1 


Miles. 

Dunning  Street, 8* 

Ballston  Spa, 4 

Saratoga  Springs, ...     7 


Mechanic's  Ville, .... 

The  first  object  which  usually  attracts  the  attention 
of  the  tourist  on  departing  from  Albany,  is  the  mansion 
of  Gen.  STEPHEN  VAN  RENSSELAER,  the  patroon  of  the 


*  From  Dunning  Street  direct  to  Saratoga  Springs, 
without  passing  through  Ballston  Spa,  the  distance  is 
but  3  miles. 


M'ADAMIZED  ROAD.  145 

manor  of  Rensselaerwick*,  which  stands  at  it8  northern 
extremity,  and  which  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  situa 
tions  in  the  United  States.  The  munificence  and  lib 
erality  of  its  opulent  and  distinguished  proprietor  are 
proverbial.  There  are  few  charitable  or  scientific  in 
stitutions  in  the  state  of  which  he  is  not  a  benefactor  ; 
and  he  has  probably  contributed  more  than  any  other 
citizen  towards  the  fostering  of  agricultural  and  litera- 
ary  improvements. 

The  MCADAMIZED  ROAD  between  Albany  and  Wa- 
tervliet,  opposite  Troy,  commences  at  this  place.  It 
runs  parallel  with  the  Erie  canal,  near  its  western  bank, 
is  between  5  and  6  miles  long,  of  a  width  sufficient  for 
three  carriages  to  run  abreast,  and  is  probably  the  most 
elegant  road  on  the  continent.  The  vales  and  hilla 
through  which  it  passes  have  been  sufficiently  elevated 
or  depressed  to  afford  either  a  level  or  a  very  moderate 
inclination ;  so  that  the  speed  of  a  carriage  over  the 
whole  is  uninterrupted.  It  is  the  property  of  an  incor 
porated  company,  who  have  expended  between  $90,000 
and  $100,000  in  its  construction.  A  steam  carriage  is 
now  in  preparation  to  run  on  the  road  ;  and  it  is  not 
improbable  that  this  will  soon  be  the  ordinary  mode  of 
travelling  between  the  two  cities. 

Five  miles  from  Albany  is  the  U.  S.  ARSENAL,  con 
sisting  of  handsome  brick  and  stone  buildings,  beauti 
fully  located  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Hudson. 


*  This  manor  comprises  a  great  portion  of  the  coun 
ties  of  Albany  and  Rensselaer — the  city  and  several 
patents  excepted. 


140  VVATEEVLIET. 

There  is  here  a  large  quantity  of  arms  and  munitions  of 
war,  with  workshops  for  repairing  them,  manufacturing 
locks,  &c.  The  muskets,  bayonets,  swords  and  pistols 
are  arranged  in  a  portion  of  it  with  great  taste,  and 
kept  in  fine  order.  Among  the  cannon  in  the  yard  are 
four  12  pounders,  one  24,  and  one  howitzer,  taken  at 
Saratoga  ;  four  12's  and  one  howitzer,  taken  at  York- 
town  ;  two  long  antique  pieces  and  one  eight  inch  mor 
tar,  taken  at  Stoney  Point ;  two  old  French  4  pounders 
and  14  guns,  sent  by  Louis  XVI  to  the  continental  con 
gress  in  the  revolution — all  of  brass,  and  most  of  them 
highly  ornamented,  with  each  an  individual  name  and 
the  inscription  "  ultima  ratio  regium."  There  are  also 
three  or  four  howitzers  cast  in  New- York  and  Philadel 
phia  in  the  revolution,  some  of  the  oldest  specimens  of 
this  manufacture  in  the  country,  and  bearing  the  ini 
tials  U.  C.  for  United  Colonies. 

Half  a  mile  further  is  the  village  of  WATERVLIET,  or 
rather  from  the  Arsenal  to  and  including  West  Troy  or 
Port  Schuyler,  is  a  continuous  village,  which  has  rapid 
ly  increased  within  a  short  period. 

From  Watervliet,  there  are  two  routes  to  Waterford  ; 
one  leading  through  Troy  and  Lansingburgh,  and  the 
other  by  the  Junction  of  the  Erie  and  Northern  canals 
and  the  Cohoes  falls.  In  going  to  and  returning  from 
the  Springs,  the  traveller  can  pass  over  both  routes. 

The  Troy  and  Lansingburgh  route. 
The  Hudson,  which  is  here  about  one  fourth  of  a 
mile  wide,  is  crossed  in  a  horse  tow-boat  from  Water 
vliet  to  the 


TKOY.  147 

CITY  op  TB.OY.  It  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  a  range 
of  hill  a  rising  abruptly  from  the  alluvial  plain  on  which 
the  city  is  situated,  extending  to  the  Hudson  river.  In 
point  of  location  and  beautiful  natural  scenery,  Troy  is 
exceeded  by  few,  if  any,  of  the  towns  and  villages  on 
the  Hudson.  The  streets,  running  north  and  south, 
converge  together  at  the  north  end  of  the  city,  and  are 
crossed  at  right  angles  by  those  running  east  and  west. 
The  buildings  are  principally  built  of  brick,  and  aro 
shaded  by  rows  of  trees  on  each  side  of  streets  which 
are  preserved  remarkably  clean,  by  additions  of  slate 
and  gravel,  instead  of  pavements.  The  city  contains 
three  banks,  seven  churches,  a  court  house,  jail  and  mar 
ket.  The  Episcopal  church  is  a  superb  specimen  of 
Gothic  architecture,  probably  not  exceeded  in  the  Uni 
ted  States.  It  has  a  venerable  and  imposing  appear 
ance,  and  needs  nothing  but  a  quantity  of  moss  and  ivy 
to  make  it  the  picture  of  one  of  those  ancient  abbeys  so 
often  to  be  met  with  in  the  writings  of  Sir  Walter  Scott. 
A  large  three  story  brick  building  has  also  been  erected 
at  the  expense  of  the  corporation,  for  the  accommoda 
tion  of  the  female  seminary  incorporated  at  this  place. 
This  institution  is  under  the  government  of  a  female 
principal  (Mrs.  Willard)  and  several  assistants,  whose 
exertions  have  given  it  a  deserved  celebrity  over  simi 
lar  institutions  in  the  state.  There  are  annually  edu 
cated  at  this  seminary  from  60  to  80  females.  The 
friends  of  literature  have  also  established  a  Lyceum  at 
this  place ;  which,  though  of  recent  origin,  promises 
much  advantage  and  usefulness  to  its  patrons.  The 
population  of  Troy  is  estimated  at  about  13,000. 


148  LANSINGBURGH — WATERFORD. 

Mount  Ida,  in  the  rear  of  Troy,  is  a  romantic  epot, 
affording  a  very  extensive  prospect  of  the  Hudson  river 
and  the  adjacent  country. 

About  a  mile  above  the  city,  a  dam  has  been  thrown 
across  the  river,  and  a  lock  constructed,  affording  a 
sloop  navigation  to  the  village  of  Waterford. 

One  mile  and  a  half  from  Troy  is  the  Rensselaer 
school,  which  was  established,  and  is  under  the  pat 
ronage  of  Gen.  Stephen  Van  Rensselaer.  It  is  a  valua 
ble  and  flourishing  institution. 

LANSINGBURGH,  three  miles  from  Troy,  is  principally 
built  on  a  single  street,  running  parallel  with  the  river. 
A  high  hill  rises  abruptly  behind  the  village,  on  which 
is  seen  the  celebrated  diamond  rock,  which  at  times 
emits  a  brilliant  lustre,  from  the  reflected  rays  of  the 
sun.  The  appearance  of  Lansingburgh  by  no  means 
indicates  a  high  state  of  prosperity,  though  it  contains 
several  very  handsome  private  residences.  The  village 
has  a  bank,  two  places  of  public  worship,  and  an  acade 
my.  Its  population  does  not  exceed  3,000.  About  a 
mile  north,  a  well  built  and  handsome  bridge  extends 
across  the  Hudson  river  to  the  village  of 

WATERFORD.  This  village  has  been  incorporated, 
and  in  point  of  size  and  commerce  may  be  considered 
the  capital  of  Saratoga  county.  It  is  situated  at  the 
junction  of  the  Mohawk  with  the  Hudson,  and  derives 
considerable  importance  from  the  navigation  of  small 
vessels,  which,  by  means  of  the  lock  and  dam  below, 
at  most  seasons  of  the  year  arrive  and  depart  to  and 
from  its  docks.  The  village  contains  a  population  of 
about  1700  inhabitants.  It  already  enjoys  many  ad- 


COHOES   PALLS.  149 

vantages  for  trade,  and  its  importance  is  much  increas 
ed  by  the  northern  canal,  which  communicates  with 
the  Hudson  river  at  this  place. 

The  Junction  and  Cohoes  route. 

From  Watervliet  to  Waterford,  by  the  Cohoes  falls, 
the  distance  is  about  the  same  as  by  Troy,  (4  miles.) 
West  Troy  or  Port  Schyler,  which  may  be  considered 
a  continuation  of  Watervliet,  owes  its  origin  and 
growth  to  the  Erie  canal,  which  passes  through  the  vil 
lage,  and  from  which  there  is  a  side  cut  to  a  basin  in 
the  river. 

The  JUNCTION  of  the  Erie  and  Northern  canals  is 
two  miles  father.  Here,  within  the  space  of  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  are  17  locks ;  and  the  number  of 
boats  constantly  passing  through  present  a  spectacle 
of  activity  and  business  of  a  novel  character  to  one 
who  has  never  witnessed  canal  navigation.  The  locks 
are  of  the  best  workmanship,  and  are  justly  ranked 
among  the  most  important  works  on  the  canals.  About 
a  mile  farther  the  Mohawk  river  is  crossed  by  an  excel 
lent  bridge  in  full  view  of  the 

COHOES  FALLS,  which  are  a  short  distance  above. 
The  perpendicular  fall  is  about  40,  and  including  the 
descent  above,  about  70  feet.  The  lofty  barrier  of 
rocks  which  confine  the  course  of  the  Mohawk — the 
distant  roar  of  the  cataract — the  dashing  of  the  waters 
as  they  descend  in  rapids  beneath  you — and  the  strik 
ing  contrast  of  the  torrent  with  the  solitude  of  the 
scenery  above,  contribute  to  render  the  whole  an  unu 
sual  scene  of  sublimity  and  grandeur.  An  old  tradi 
tion  states,  that  a  chief  of  the  Mohawks  attempting  to 


150  VAN  SCHAICK'S  ISLAND. 

cross  in  his  canoe,  embarked  too  near  the  current  of 
the  falls  to  escape  their  descent.  Finding  himself  una 
ble  to  resist  the  influence  of  the  current,  which  hurried 
him  fast  to  the  summit,  with  true  Indian  heroism,  he 
turned  his  canoe  into  the  stream,  assumed  his  station 
at  the  helm,  and  with  a  paddle  in  one  hand  and  his 
bottle  in  the  other,  was  precipitated  over  the  brink. 
It  was  in  taking  a  view  of  these  falls,  about  30  years 
since,  that  the  poet  Moore  composed  one  of  his  best 
fugitive  pieces.  Indeed,  the  scenery  and  every  thing 
connected  with  this  interesting  spot,  are  calculated  to 
afford  ample  subjects  for  the  poet  and  painter. 

Between  this  place  and  Schenectady,  (noticed  in  a 
subsequent  page,)  the  canal  is  carried  twice  across  the 
Mohawk.  The  lower  aqueduct,  as  it  is  called,  2  1-2 
miles  from  the  falls,  is  1188  feet  long,  and  rests  on  26 
stone  piers  and  abutments — the  other  aqueduct,  12 
miles  further,  is  750  feet  long,  and  rests  on  16  piers* 
These  works  were  completed  at  great  expense,  and 
must  have  required  immense  labour. 

From  the  falls  to  Waterford  (noticed  at  page  148)  is 
one  mile. 

VAN  SCHAICK'S  ISLAND  is  situated  in  the  vicinity  of 
Waterford,  and  is  formed  by  the  sprouts  of  the  Mohawk 
river  joining  with  the  Hudson  river,  9  miles  north  of  Al 
bany.  This  spot  is  noted  for  being  the  head  quarters 
of  the  American  army  in  1777  ;  from  whence  they 
marched,  in  September  of  the  same  year,  to  the  de 
cisive  victory  over  Burgoyne,  at  Bemus'  Heights. 
There  are  few  places  more  fruitful,  in  sources  of  inter 
est  and  delight  to  the  stranger,  than  Saratoga.  HEBE, 


MECHANIOVILLE — DUNNING-6TREET.         151 

at  one  point,  beckons  him  to  the  pursuit  of  health, 
promising  him  a  full  share  of  pleasure,  consistent  with 
her  heavenly  boon,  while  MARS,  at  another,  invites  him 
to  the  field  where  military  courage  and  enterprise  re 
ceived  at  his  hand  the  palm  of  victory.  Whilst  the 
scenes  associated  with  the  independence  of  our  coun 
try  shall  impart  an  interest,  and  so  long  as  health  and 
amusement  shall  remain  the  pursuit  of  humanity,  Sara 
toga  will  continue  to  be  the  resort  of  the  invalid,  the 
fashionable,  the  patriot  and  the  philosopher. 

MECHANIC  VILLE,  or  as  it  is  more  commonly  called 
the  Burrough,  is  situated  8  miles  north  of  Waterford. 
It  contains  about  20  dwellings,  a  post  office,  and  a  cot 
ton  factory  and  mills.  The  road  from  Waterford  to  this 
place  lies  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  of  which  a  view 
may  be  had  at  any  point  of  the  distance.  Some  of  the 
old  Dutch  barns  bordering  on  the  turnpike,  and  which 
are  still  in  a  state  of  tolerable  preservation,  were  used 
by  the  American  troops  as  barracks  during  the  revolu 
tionary  war.  After  leaving  the  Borough,  the  road  is 
circuitous  and  uneven  ;  and  the  country  presents  but 
little  appearance  of  cultivation,  the  prospect  being  gen 
erally  limited  by  the  numerous  pines  for  which  this  re 
gion  is  distinguished. 

DUNNING-STREET  is  8  miles  in  a  north-westerly  di 
rection  from  Mechanic  Ville.  Here  are  two  public 
houses,  a  store  and  number  of  dwellings.  It  is  called 
Dunning-street  from  a  family  of  the  same  name  who  first 
came  to  settle  there,  and  who  still  reside  in  the  neigh 
borhood.  The  farms  in  this  section  are  some  of  the 
best  in  the  county,  and  are  under  very  good  improve- 


159  BALLSTON  SPA.   . 

ment  Ballston  Spa  is  situated  four  miles  from  Dun- 
ning-street,  in  a  north-westerly  direction  j  Saratoga 
Springs  8  miles  in  a  northerly  direction. 

BALLSTON  SPA. 

This  pleasant  village  lies  in  the  town  of  Milton  in  the 
County  of  Saratoga ;  and  is  situated  in  a  low  valley, 
through  the  centre  of  which  flows  a  branch  of  the  Kay- 
aderosseras,  with  whose  waters  it  mingles  at  the  east 
end  of  the  village.  The  natural  boundaries  of  Balls- 
Eton  Spa  are  well  defined  by  steep  and  lofty  hills  of 
Band  on  the  north  and  west,  and  by  a  ridge  of  land 
which  gradually  slopes  inward,  and  encircles  the  vil 
lage  on  the  south  and  east.  The  broad  and  ample 
Kayaderosseras,  whose  stream  gives  motion  to  a  neigh 
boring  mill,  flows  on  the  north-east  boundary  of  the 
village,  and  furnishes  a  favorite  resort  for  the  sports 
man  on  the  bosom  of  its  waters,  or  for  the  loiterer 
along  its  verdant  banks.  The  village  was  incorporated 
in  1807,  and  is  under  the  direction  of  three  trustees, 
who  are  chosen  annually.  It  contains  130  houses,  and 
about  800  inhabitants.  Besides  the  court  house  for 
the  county,  and  the  clerk's  office,  which  are  located 
here,  there  is  an  Episcopal  and  a  Baptist  church,  an 
academy,  and  a  female  seminary ;  likewise  a  print 
ing  office  and  a  book  store,  with  which  a  reading 
room  is  connected  for  the  accommodation  of  visitants. 

The  FEMALE  SEMINARY  is  under  the  superintendance 
of  Mr.  Booth,  a  gentleman  who  is  eminently  qualified 
for  the  undertaking,  having  been  for  a  number  of  years 
the  principal  instructor  in  the  female  academy  at  Al 
bany.  The  scite  of  the  institution  is  on  a  pleasant 


BALLSTON  SPA.  153 

.  and  healthy  eminence,  commanding  a  view  of  the  whole 
village  and  the  surrounding  country  for  some  distance. 
The  building  itself  is  spacious  and  airy,  and  occupies, 
with  the  out  grounds  and  improvements,  upwards  of 
an  acre  of  land.  This  institution,  though  of  recent  es 
tablishment,  has,  from  the  well  known  experience  and 
celebrity  of  its  proprietor,  commanded  a  full  share  of 
patronage.  Among  the  various  branches  taught,  are 
natural  and  moral  philosophy,  belles  lettres,  chemistry, 
geometry  and  history ;  and  when  required,  competent 
teachers  instruct  in  the  several  branches  of  musick, 
drawing  and  dancing.  The  terms  of  tuition  and  board 
are  quite  reasonable  ;  and  the  general  management 
of  the  institution  is  spoken  of  in  the  highest  terms  of 
commendation. 

Ballston  Spa  principally  derives  its  celebrity  from 
the  mineral  springs  which  flow  here  and  at  Saratoga 
in  equal  abundance.  The  spring  first  discovered  in  the 
vicinity,  stands  on  the  flat,  nearly  opposite  the  board 
ing  establishment  of  Mr.  Aldridge.  It  formerly  flowed 
out  of  a  common  barrel,  sunk  around  it,  without  any 
other  protection  from  the  invasion  of  cattle,  who  often 
slacked  their  thirst  in  its  fountain.  Afterwards  the  lib 
erality  of  the  citizens  was  displayed  in  a  marble  curb 
and  flagging,  and  a  handsome  iron  railing.  The  curb 
and  flagging  were  finally  removed,  leaving  the  railing, 
which  still  serves  the  purposes  of  ornament  and  pro 
tection.  The  spring  flows  now,  probably,  from  the» 
place  where  it  originally  issued,  some  feet  below  the 
surrounding  surface,  which  has  been  elevated  by  addi 
tions  of  earth,  for  tho  purpose  of  improving  the  road  in 
which  it  stands* 


154  BALLSTON  SPA. 

Near  this  spring,  in  boring  two  or  three  years  since, 
an  excellent  mineral  fountain  was  discovered  at  a  con 
siderable  depth  beneath  the  surface.  Its  qualities  are 
said  to  be  superior  to  those  of  the  spring  already  men 
tioned,  and,  by  many,  its  waters  are  preferred  to  any 
other  in  the  village. 

The  U.  STATES  SPRING  is  situated  at  the  east  end  of 
the  village,  on  the  land  of  Mr.  Loomis.  Near  this  foun 
tain,  a  large  and  commodious  bathing  house  has  been 
erected;  to  which,  not  only  the  waters  of  this,  but  of 
a  number  of  other  adjacent  springs,  are  tributary,  for 
the  purpose  of  bathing.  Between  the  springs  already 
mentioned,  there  was  discovered  in  the  summer  of 
1817,  a  mineral  spring,  called  the  Washington  fountain. 
This  latter  spring  rose  on  the  margin  of  the  creek  in 
front  of  the  factory  building ;  it  flowed  through  a  curb 
28  feet  in  length,  sunk  to  the  depth  of  23  feet,  and  was 
liberated  at  the  top  in  the  form  of  a  beautiful  jet  d'eau  ; 
but  the  spring  disappeared  in  1821.  Numerous  at 
tempts  have  since  been  made  to  recover  it,  but  they 
have  proved  fruitless. 

The  principal  ingredients  of  these  waters  consist  of 
muriate  of  soda,  carbonate  of  soda,  carbonate  of  lime, 
carbonate  of  magnesia,  and  carbonate  of  iron  ;  all  of 
which,  in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  enter  into  the  com 
position  of  the  waters,  both  here  and  at  Saratoga. 

The  principal  boarding  houses  are  the  Sans  Souci, 
Aldridge's,  and  the  Village  Hotel. 

The  SANS  Souci,  with  its  yards  and  out  houses,  oc 
cupies  an  area  of  some  acres  in  the  east  part  of  the  vil 
lage.  The  plan  of  the  building,  with  the  extensive  im 
provements  around  it,  do  much  credit  to  the  taste  and 


BALLSTON  SPA-  155 

liberality  of  its  proprietor.  The  establishment  was  for 
merly  the  property  of  Mr.  Low,  of  New- York  ;  from 
whom  it  has  passed  into  the  hands  of  Mr.  Loomis,  ita 
present  owner,  and  under  whose  management  the  most 
entire  satisfaction  is  given  to  its  annual  visitants.  The 
edifice  is  constructed  of  wood,  three  stories  high,  160 
feet  in  length,  with  two  wings  extending  back  153  feet, 
and  is  calculated  for  the  accommodation  of  130  board 
ers.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  yard,  ornamented 
with  a  variety  of  trees  and  shrubbery,  which,  with  its 
extensive  piazzas  and  spacious  halls,  render  it  a  de 
lightful  retreat  during  the  oppressive  heat  of  summer. 

ALDRIDGE'S  Boarding  House,  with  which  is  connect 
ed  an  extensive  garden,  at  the  west  end  of  the  village, 
is  not  inferior  in  point  of  accommodation,  and  receives 
its  full  share  of  patronage.  Its  more  retired  location, 
and  the  profusion  of  rural  scenery  around  it,  as  well  as 
the  deserved  reputation  of  the  establishment,  will  al 
ways  determine  the  choice  of  a  large  portion  of  visitants 
during  their  transient  residence  at  the  Springs. 

The  VILLAGE  HOTEL,  is  in  a  convenient  situation  a 
few  rods  west  of  the  Sans  Souci.  It  is  now  kept  by 
the  proprietor,  Mr.  Clark,  and  is  a  very  agreeable  and 
pleasant  boarding  place  for  strangers  during  the  sum 
mer  months. 

Mrs.  M'MASTER'S,  is  a  private  boarding  house,  sit 
uated  adjacent  to  the  spring  on  the  flat  in  the  west 
part  of  the  village.  Those  who  are  fond  of  a  retired 
situation,  will  be  much  gratified  at  this  place,  and  with 
al  will  find  a  hospitable  hostess,  and  very  excellent  ac- 


156  BALLSTON    SPA. 

commodations,  at  a  moderate  price.  Besides  these, 
there  are  other  houses  of  accommodation  ;  the  princi 
pal  of  which  is  the 

MANSION  HOUSE,  owned  by  Mr.  Kid.  This  house  is 
situated  in  a  central  part  of  the  village,  is  well  kept, 
and  every  attention  is  paid  which  can  contribute  to  the 
comfort  and  convenience  of  its  guests. 

The  price  of  board  per  week,  at  the  several  houses, 
is  from  $3  to  $8. 

Mails  arrive  and  depart  to  and  from  Ballston  Spa, 
every  day  in  the  week.  Besides  a  post  office  at  the 
village,  there  is  one  in  the  town  of  Ballston,  about  three 
miles  distant,  to  which  letters  are  frequently  missent, 
owing  to  the  neglect  of  correspondents  in  making  the 
proper  direction. 

The  reading  room  and  library  may  be  resorted  to  at 
all  times,  and  for  a  moderate  compensation.  Papers 
are  there  furnished  from  all  parts  of  the  Union.  The 
library,  which  includes  some  periodical  publications,  is 
small  j  but  valuable  selections  may  be  made,  either 
for  instruction  or  amusement. 

Six  miles  from  Ballston  Spa,  in  a  southerly  direction, 
is  BALLSTON  LAKE,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the 
Long  Lake.  The  only  accommodations,  on  an  excur 
sion  to  the  lake,  are  furnished  at  the  farm  house,  re 
cently  owned  by  a  Mr.  M'Donald,  on  its  western  mar 
gin.  This  gentleman  was  a  native  of  Ireland,  and  on 
his  first  arrival  in  America,  settled  with  his  brother,  in 
1763,  on  this  spot,  where  he  continued  to  reside  until 
his  decease,  in  1823.  It  was  at  this  house  Sir  William 
Johnson  passed  some  time  on  his  first  journey  to  Sar 
atoga  Springs,  as  early  as  the  year  1767.  The  lake  is 


SARATOGA   SPRINGS.  157 

a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  5  miles  long  and  1  broad. 
The  scenery  around  affords  a  pleasing  landscape  of  cul 
tivation  and  wood  lands,  no  less  inviting  to  the  sports 
man  than  the  soft  bosom  of  the  lake  and  its  finny  in 
habitants  to  the  amateurs  of  the  rod. 

SARATOGA  SPRINGS, 

Is  situated  north-easterly  from  Ballston  Spa  7  miles, 
and  24  miles  from  the  village  of  Waterford.  The  vil 
lage  is  located  on  an  elevated  spot  of  ground,  surround 
ed  by  a  productive 'plain  country,  and  enjoys,  if  not  the 
advantage  of  prospect,  at  least  the  advantage  of  a  sa 
lubrious  air  and  climate,  contributing  much  to  the 
health  and  benefit  of  its  numerous  visitants.  The 
springs,  so  justly  celebrated  for  their  medicinal  virtues, 
are  situated  on  the  margin  of  a  vale,  bordering  the  vil 
lage  on  the  east,  and  are  a  continuation  of  a  chain  of 
springs  discovering  themselves  about  12  miles  to  the 
south,  in  the  town  of  Ballston,  and  extending  easterly, 
in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  to  the  Quaker  village.  In 
the  immediate  vicinity  are  10  or  12  springs,  the  princi 
pal  of  which  are  the  Congress,  the  Hamilton,  the  High 
Rock,  the  Columbian,  the  Flat  Rock,  the  Washington 
and  the  President.  About  a  mile  east,  at  the  former 
residence  of  Mr.  Taylor,  are  found  a  cluster  of  mineral 
springs  which  go  by  the  name  of  the  Ten  Springs. 

THE  CONGRESS  SPRING 

Is  situated  at  the  south  end  of  the  village,  and  is 
owned  by  Doct.  John  Clarke ;  to  whose  liberality  the 
public  are  much  indebted  for  the  recent  improvements 
that  have  been  made  in  the  grounds  adjoining  the  foun 
tain,  and  the  purity  in  which  its  waters  are  preserved. 


158  SARATOGA   SPRINGS. 

This  spring  was  first  discovered  about  90  years 
issuing  from  a  crevice  in  the  rock,  a  few  feet  from  its 
present  location.  Here  it  flowed  for  a  number  of  years, 
until  an  attempt  to  improve  the  surface  around  it  pro 
duced  an  accidental  obstruction  of  its  waters,  which 
afterwards  made  their  appearance  at  the  place  where 
they  now  flow.  It  is  enclosed  by  a  tube  sunk  into  the 
earth  to  the  distance  of  12  or  14  feet,  which  secures  it 
from  the  water  of  the  stream,  adjoining  to  which  it 
is  situated.  Besides  a  handsome  enclosure  and  plat 
form  for  promenading,  the  proprietor  has  thrown  an 
awning  over  the  spring  for  the  convenience  of  visitants. 

To  this  spot,  perhaps  more  than  any  other  on  the 
globe,  are  seen  repairing  in  the  summer  mornings,  be 
fore  breakfast,  persons  of  almost  every  grade  and  con 
dition,  from  the  most  exalted  to  the  most  abject.  The 
beautiful  and  the  deformed — the  rich  and  the  poor — 
the  devotee  of  pleasure  and  the  invalid — all  congregate 
here  for  purposes  as  various  as  are  their  situations  in 
life.  To  one  fond  of  witnessing  the  great  diversity  in 
the  human  character,  this  place  affords  an  ample  field 
for  observation.  So  well  indeed,  has  it  been  improved 
by  the  little  urchins  who  dip  water  at  the  fountain,  that 
an  imposing  exterior  is  sure  to  procure  for  its  possessor 
their  services ;  while  individuals  less  richly  attired,  and 
whose  physiognomy  indicate  a  less  liberal  disposition, 
are  often  compelled  to  wait  till  it  is  more  convenient 
to  attend  to  their  wants. 

Most  persons  soon  become  fond  of  the  water  ;  but 
the  effect  on  those  who  taste  it  for  the  first  time  is  fre 
quently  unpleasant.  To  such,  the  other  fountains  are 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  1&9 

generally  more  palatable,  having  a  less  saline  taste 
than  the  Congress. 

The  HIGH  ROCK  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the 
valley,  skirting  the  east  side  of  the  village,  about  half  a 
mile  north  of  the  Congress.  The  rock  enclosing  this 
spring  is  in  the  shape  of  a  cone,  9  feet  in  diameter  at  its 
base,  and  5  feet  in  height.  It  seems  to  have  been 
formed  by  a  concretion  of  particles  thrown  up  by  the 
water,  which  formerly  flowed  over  its  summit  through 
an  aperture  of  about  12  inches  diameter,  regularly  di 
verging  from  the  top  of  the  cone  to  its  base.  This  spring 
was  visited  in  the  year  1767  by  Sir  William  Johnson, 
but  was  known  long  before  by  the  Indians,  who  were 
first  led  to  it,  either  by  accident  or  by  the  frequent 
haunts  of  beasts,  attracted  thither  by  the  saline  proper 
ties  of  the  water.  A  building  was  erected  near  the  spot 
previous  to  the  revolutionary  war ;  afterwards  aban 
doned,  and  again  resumed ;  since  which  the  usefulness 
of  the  water  has,  from  time  to  time,  occasioned  frequent 
settlements  within  its  vicinity. 

The  water  now  rises  within  2  feet  of  the  summit,  and 
a  common  notion  prevails  that  it  has  found  a  passage 
through  a  fissure  of  the  rock  occasioned  by  the  fall  of  a 
tree  ;  since  which  event  it  has  ceased  to  flow  over  its 
brink.  This  opinion,  however,  may  be  doubted.  It  is 
probable  that  the  decay  of  the  rock,  which  commenced 
its  formation  on  the  natural  surface  of  the  earth,  may 
have  yielded  to  the  constant  motion  of  the  water,  and  at 
length  opened  a  passage  between  its  decayed  base  and 
the  loose  earth  on  which  it  was  formed.  This  idea  is 
^strengthened  from  the  external  appearance  of  the 
rock  at  its  eastern  base,  which  has  already  been  pene- 


160  SARATOGA   SPRINGS. 

trated  by  the  implements  of  curiosity  a  number  of 
inches. 

Between  the  Red  spring  in  the  upper  village,  and  the 
Washington  in  the  south  part  of  the  lower  village,  are 
situated  most  of  the  other  mineral  springs  in  which  this 
place  abounds.  At  three  of  the  principal  springs,  the 
Hamilton,  Monroe  and  Washington,  large  and  conven 
ient  bathing  houses  have  been  erected,  which  are  the 
constant  resort  for  pleasure  as  well  as  health,  during 
the  warm  season. 

The  mineral  waters  both  at  Ballston  and  Saratoga 
are  supposed  to  be  the  product  of  the  same  great  laba- 
ratory,  and  they  all  possess  nearly  the  same  properties, 
varying  only  as  to  the  quantity  of  the  different  articles 
held  in  solution.  They  arc  denominated  acidulous  sa 
line  and  acidulous  chalybeate.  Of  the  former  are  the 
Congress,  (which  holds  the  first  rank,)  the  Hamilton, 
High  Rock  and  President,  at  Saratoga ;  and  of  the  lat 
ter  are  the  Columbian,  Flat  Rock  and  Washington,  at 
Saratoga,  and  the  Old  Spring  and  United  States,  at 
Ballston.  The  wraters  contain  muriate  of  soda,  hydrio- 
date  of  soda,  carbonate  of  soda,  carbonate  of  lime,  cor- 
bonate  of  magnesia,  oxide  of  iron,  and  some  of  them  a 
minute  quantity  of  silica  and  alumina.  Large  quanti 
ties  of  carbonic  acid  gas  are  also  contained  in  the  wa 
ters,  giving  to  them  a  sparkling  and  lively  appear 
ance.  The  Congress,  in  particular,  the  moment 
it  is  dipped,  contains  nearly  one  half  more  than  its  bulk 
of  gas  ;  a  quantity  unprecedented  in  any  natural  wa 
ters  elsewhere  discovered. 

Doct.  Steel,  in  his  geological  report  of  the  county  of 
Saratoga,  published  a  few  years  since,  remarks,  that 


SARATOGA   SPRINGS.  161 

M  the  temperature  of  the  water  in  all  these  wells  is 
about  the  same,  ranging  from  48  to  52  degrees  on  Far- 
enheWs  scale  ;  and  they  suffer  no  sensible  alteration 
from  any  variation  in  the  temperature  of  the  atmos 
phere  ;  neither  do  the  variations  of  the  seasons  appear 
to  have  much  effect  on  the  quantity  of  water  produced. 

"  The  waters  are  remarkably  limpid,  and  when  first 
dipped  sparkle  with  all  the  life  of  good  champaigne. 
The  saline  waters  bear  bottling  very  well,  particularly 
the  Congress,  immense  quantities  of  which  are  put  up 
in  this  way,  and  transported  to  various  parts  of  the 
world  ;  not,  however,  without  a  considerable  loss  of  its 
gaseous  property,  which  renders  its  taste  much  more  in 
sipid  than  when  drank  at  the  well.  The  chalybeate  water 
is  likewise  put  up  in  bottles  for  transportation,  but  a  very 
trifling  loss  of  its  gas  produces  an  immediate  precipita 
tion  of  its  iron  ;  and  hence  this  water,  when  it  has  been 
bottled  for  some  time,  frequently  becomes  turbid,  and  fi 
nally  loses  every  trace  of  iron  ;  this  substance  fixing  it 
self  to  the  walls  of  the  bottle. 

"  The  most  prominent  and  perceptible  effects  of 
these  waters,  when  taken  into  the  stomach,  are  cathar* 
tic,  diuretic  and  tonic.  They  are  much  used  in  a  great 
variety  of  complaints  ;  but  the  diseases  in  which  they 
are  most  efficacious  are,  jaundice  and  billious  affections 
generally,  dyspepsia,  habitual  costiveness,  hypochon- 
drical  complaints,  depraved  appetite,  calculous  and  ne 
phritic  complaints,  phagedenic  or  ill-conditioned  ul 
cers,  cutaneous  eruptions,  chronic  rheumatism,  some 
species  or  states  of  gout,  some  species  of  dropsy,  scro 
fula,  paralysis,  scorbutic  affections  and  old  scorbutic  ul 
cers,  amenorrhea,  dysmenorrhea  and  clorosis.  In 


162  SAEATOGA    SPRINGS. 

phthisis,  and  indeed  all  other  pulmonary  affections  ari 
sing  from  primary  diseases  of  the  lungs,  the  waters  are 
manifestly  injurious,  and  evidently  tend  to  increase  the 
violence  of  the  disease. 

"  Much  interest  has  been  excited  on  the  subject  of 
the  source  of  these  singular  waters  ;  but  no  researches 
have  as  yet  unfolded  the  mystery.  The  large  propor 
tion  of  common  salt  found  among  their  constituent 
properties  may  be  accounted  for  without  much  difficul 
ty.  All  the  salt  springs  of  Europe,  as  well  as  those  of 
America,  being  found  in  geological  situations  exactly 
corresponding  to  these,  but  the  production  of  the  unex 
ampled  quantity  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  the  medium 
through  which  the  other  articles  are  held  in  solution,  is 
yet,  and  probably  will  remain  a  subject  of  mere  specu 
lation.  The  low  and  regular  temperature  of  the  water 
seems  to  forbid  the  idea  that  it  is  the  effect  of  subterra 
nean  heat,  as  many  have  supposed,  and  the  total  ab 
sence  of  any  mineral  acid,  excepting  the  muriatic, 
which  is  combined  with  soda,  does  away  the  possibility 
of  its  being  the  effect  of  any  combination  of  that  kind. 
Its  production  is  therefore  truly  unaccountable."* 


*  An  analysis  of  the  waters  of  this  place  and  at 
Ballston  Spa  was  made  and  published  by  Doct.  Steel, 
some  years  since,  and  has  received  the  sanction  of  the 
most  scientific  men  in  this  country  and  in  Europe.  The 
Doctor  has  recently  prepared  and  is  now  publishing 
(1830)  an  entire  new  work,  embracing  not  only  an  anal 
ysis  of  the  various  springs  and  directions  for  their  use 
in  the  numerous  diseases  in  which  they  have  proved 
beneficial,  but  also  a  full  and  interesting  history  of  their 
discovery,  and  of  the  rise  and  progress  of  the  villages  in 


SARATOGA   SPRINGS.  163 

The  boarding  establishments  of  the  first  class  at  Sar 
atoga  Springs  are  the  Congress  Hall  and  Union  Hall  at 
the  south  end  of  the  village,  the  Pavilion  at  the  north, 
and  the  United  States  Hotel  in  a  central  situation  be 
tween  them.  Besides  these,  there  are  a  number  of  oth 
er  boarding  houses  on  a  less  extensive  scale,  the  most 
noted  of  which  are,  Montgomery  Hall  in  the  south  part, 
and  the  Columbian  Hotel  and  Washington  Hall  in  the 
north  part  of  the  village  ;  Fletcher's,  (formerly  Doctor 
Porter's,)  and  Waterbury's,  about  half  way  between  the 
Congress  and  Flat  Rock  springs  ;  Monroe's,  Putnam's, 
Sadler's,  and  Martin's,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  village. 

The  CONGRESS  HALL,  kept  by  Messrs.  J.  &  J.  R. 
Westcott,  is  situated  within  a  few  rods  of  the  Congress 
spring,  to  which  a  handsome  walk,  shaded  with  trees, 
has  been  constructed  for  the  convenience  of  guests. 
The  space  in  front  of  the  building  is  occupied  by  three 


which  they  are  located.  The  literary  attainments  of 
Doct.  S.  and  his  great  experience  from  a  long  residence 
at  this  place,  give  us  reason  to  believe  that  this  work 
will  be  found  to  be  far  superior  to  any  thing  of  the  kind 
which  has  appeared.  It  ought  also  to  be  remarked, 
that  no  invalid  should  attempt  the  use  of  these  waters 
without  the  direction  of  a  physician  well  acquainted 
with  their  properties.  A  contrary  course,  under  the 
too  prevalent  and  erroneous  impression  that  they  may 
be  drank  in  all  complaints,  in  any  quantity,  and  at  all 
hours  of  the  day,  has  been  attended  in  many  instances 
with  deleterious  and  sometimes  with  fatal  consequen 
ces.  There  can  be  no  doubt  of  their  great  efficacy  in 
most  complaints,  when  properly  used  ;  yet  ill-timed 
and  too  copious  draughts  not  only  fail  of  removing  con> 
plaints,  but  frequently  engender  them. 


164  SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 

apartments,  each  of  which  is  enclosed  by  a  railing,  ter 
minating  at  the  front  entrances  of  the  piazza,  and  each 
used  as  a  flower  garden.  The  edifice  is  200  feet  in 
length,  21-2  stories  high,  with  two  wings  extending 
back,  one  60,  and  the  other  about  100  feet.  The  bil 
liard  rooms  belonging1  to  the  establishment  are  contain 
ed  in  a  building  adjoining  the  north  wing.  In  front  of 
the  Hall  its  a  spacious  piazza,  extending  the  whole 
length  of  the  building,  20  feet  in  width,  with  a  canopy 
from  the  roof,  supported  by  17  massy  columns,  each  of 
which  is  gracefully  entwined  with  woodbine.  There  is 
also  a  back  piazza,  which  opens  upon  a  beautiful  gar 
den  annexed  to  the  establishment,  and  a  small  grove  of 
pines,  affording  both  fragrance  and  shade  to  their  loi 
tering  guests.  The  Congress  Hall  can  accommodate 
nearly  200  visitants,  and  is  justly  ranked  among  the 
most  elegant  establishments  in  the  union. 

The  UNITED  STATES  HOTEL,  kept  by  Messrs.  Ford  & 
Marvin,  with  its  gardens  and  out  buildings,  occupies  a 
space  in  the  centre  of  the  village  of  about  five  acres. 
The  main  building  is  composed  of  brick,  125  feet  long 
and  34  wide.  It  is  four  stories  high,  and  has  a  wing  ex 
tending  west  60  feet,  three  stories  high.  The  bil 
liard  room  is  in  a  building  erected  for  the  purpose  in  the 
pleasure  grounds  adjoining.  A  building,  34  by  60,  ap 
propriated  to  drawing  and  lodging  rooms,  has  also  been 
added  on  the  south,  and  is  connected  with  the  main  ed 
ifice  by  broad  piazzas  in  front  and  rear,  extending  the 
whole  length  of  both  buildings.  The  ground  in  the 
rear  and  south  of  the  hotel  is  handsomely  laid  out  into 
walks,  terminating  on  the  west  in  a  garden  belonging 
to  the  establishment,  and  the  whole  is  tastefully  orna- 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS.  165 

raented  with  trees  and  shrubbery.  The  front  of  the 
edifice  is  enclosed  by  a  delicate  circular  railing  into 
three  apartments,  each  containing  a  choice  variety  of 
flowers  and  shrubs,  and  shaded  by  a  row  of  forest  trees 
extending  the  whole  length  of  the  building.  The  hotel 
is  situated  equally  distant  between  the  Congress  and 
Flat  Rock  springs,  and  commands  a  view  of  the  whole 
village,  and  from  its  fourth  story  a  distinct  view  is  had 
of  the  surrounding  country  for  a  number  of  miles.  This 
establishment  can  accommodate  nearly  200  visitants, 
and  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  splendid  edifices  in 
the  United  States. 

The  PAVILION  is  situated  in  a  pleasant  part  of  the  vil 
lage,  immediately  in  front  of  the  Flat  Rock  spring.  The 
building  is  constructed  of  wood,  133  feet  in  length,  with 
a  wing  extending  back  from  the  centre  of  the  main 
bulling,  80  feet.  It  is  2  1-2  stories  high,  with  the  ad 
dition  of  an  attiek  story,  which,  with  the  handsome 
portico  in  front,  sustained  by  delicate  colonades,  ren 
ders  it,  in  beauty  and  proportion,  one  of  the  finest 
models  of  architecture  this  country  can  produce.  The 
large  rooms  of  the  Pavilion  are  less  spacious  than  those 
of  the  United  States  Hotel  or  Congress  Hall,  but  are 
so  constructed  that  by  means  of  folding  doors  the 
whole  of  the  lower  apartments  may  be  thrown  into 
one — an  advantage  which  gives  much  additional  inter 
est  to  the  promenade  and  cotillion  parties,  which  fre 
quently  assemble  on  this  extensive  area.  A  large  gar 
den  is  connected  with  the  establishment,  and  also  a 
billiard  room.  The  Pavilion  is  calculated  for  the  ac 
commodation  of  about  130  visitants,  though  it  frequent 
ly  contains  a  much  greater  number.  It  is  kept  by  Mr, 
J,  C.  Dillon. 


166  SARATOGA   SPRINGS. 

The  UNION  HALL  is  one  of  the  earliest  and  most  re 
spectable  establishments  in  the  vicinity,  and  is  situated 
directly  opposite  to  the  Congress  Hall.  It  has,  within 
a  few  years,  been  much  improved  in  its  appearance, 
and  enlarged  by  considerable  additions  to  the  main 
building.  It  now  presents  an  elegant  and  extensive 
front,  120  feet  in  length,  3  stories  high,  with  two  wings 
extending  west  60  feet.  It  is  ornamented  in  front  by 
10  columns,  which  rise  to  nearly  the  height  of  the 
building,  and  support  the  roof  of  a  spacious  piazza.  A 
garden  in  the  rear  of  the  building,  together  with  a  beau 
tiful  flower  garden  on  the  north  opening  to  the  main 
street,  are  among  the  varieties  which  contribute  to  the 
pleasantness  of  the  establishment.  It  is  now  kept  by 
Mr.  W.  Putnam,  a  son  of  the  original  proprietor,  and 
ranks  in  point  of  elegance  and  respectability  with  the 
most  favored  establishments  in  the  vicinity. 

The  COLUMBIAN  HOTEL,  owned  and  kept  by  Mr. 
I  Williams,  stands  a  few  yards  south  of  the  Pavilion. 
Annexed  to  the  establishment  is  a  handsome  garden, 
lying  on  three  sides  of  the  building,  which  adds  much 
to  the  beauty  and  advantage  it  enjoys  in  point  of  nat 
ural  location.  The  well  known  reputation  of  this  es 
tablishment,  as  well  as  its  pleasant  situation,  in  the  vi 
cinity  of  one  of  the  principal  fountains,  will  always  en 
sure  it  a  full  share  of  patronage. 

The  WASHINGTON  HALL,  owned  and  kept  by  Mr.  I. 
Taylor,  is  beautifully  located  at  the  north  part  of  the 
village  ;  and  is  patronized  by  strangers  who  do  not 
wish  to  mingle  in  the  pleasures  of  the  larger  establish 
ments.  The  price  of  board  per  week  at  the  respective 
houses,  is  from  $3  to  $10. 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  167 

The  READING  ROOMS.  There  is  in  the  village  a  print 
ing  office  and  book-store,  with  which  is  connected  a 
reading  room,  a  mineralogical  room  and  a  library,  un* 
der  the  superintendence  of  the  same  proprietor.  These 
rooms,  a  few  doors  north  of  the  U.  S.  Hotel,  are  con 
tained  in  the  same  building  with  the  library  and  book 
store,  but  have  their  separate  apartments.  That  ap 
propriated  for  the  reading  room,  is  large  and  airy.  It 
is  ornamented  with  a  variety  of  maps  and  charts,  and 
is  furnished  by  the  daily  mails  with  about  100  papers, 
from  different  parts  of  the  United  States  and  from  the 
Canadas,  besides  several  periodical  publications.  The 
mineralogical  apartment  is  on  the  second  story,  to 
which  stairs  lead  from  the  reading  room.  This  apart 
ment  contains  specimens  of  all  the  minerals  discovered 
in  this  vicinity,  together  with  a  variety  from  different 
parts  of  the  union,  and  from  Europe.  They  are  very 
handsomely  arranged  in  glass  cases,  have  been  much 
augmented  of  late  by  Dr.  J.  H.  Steel,  of  this  place,  to 
whom  the  proprietor  is  principally  indebted  for  their 
collection  and  arrangement.  An  apartment  adjoining 
the  reading  room,  contains  a  library  of  about  2000  vol 
umes,  which  are  well  selected,  and  receive  constant 
additions  from  the  most  fashionable  productions  of  the 
day.  There  is  also  kept  at  these  rooms  a  register  of 
the  names  of  visitants  at  the  Springs,  their  residence 
and  places  of  board.  The  names  thus  entered  fre 
quently  number  from  6  to  8000  in  the  course  of  a  sea 
son. 

These  rooms  afford  a  pleasant  retreat  from  the  noise 
and  bustle  of  the  boarding  establishments,  and  are 
much  frequented  by  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  taste  and 


169  SARATC  •  S 

fashion.  The  terms  ar  lo,  and  are  scarcely 

an  equivalent  considerin  rtent  and  usefulness  of 

the  institution. 

The  mail  arrives  at  i  -  every  evening  at  6 

o'clock  in  24  hours  from  \  :,  and  leaves  every 

morning  at  8  for  Albany  ig  with  the  Boston 

mail  at  that  place.  Stn  -  -iiould  be  apprized  that 
a  post-office  is  establi^l  ••:  town  of  Saratoga, 

about  12  miles  distant,  uo  winch  letters  intended  for 
the  Springs  are  often  missent,  in  consequence  of  their 
mis-direction. 

At  both  the  villages  of  Ballston  and  Saratoga  Springs, 
there  are  always  sufficient  objects  of  amusement  to 
render  the  transient  residence  of  their  summer  guests 
pleasant  and  agreeable.  Those  whose  taste  is  not 
gratified  at  the  billiard  rooms,  which  are  annexed  to 
most  of  the  boarding  establishments,  can  always  enjoy 
a  mental  recreation  at  the  reading  rooms,  or  a  short 
excursion  in  the  neighborhood,  where  sufficient  beauty 
and  novelty  of  scenery  are  always  presented  to  render 
it  interesting.  The  amusements  of  the  day  are  usually 
crowned  with  a  ball  or  promenade.  The  respective 
apartments  appropriated  for  these  occasions  are  calcu 
lated  to  accommodate  from  150  to  200  guests ;  but 
they  often  contain  a  much  greater  number. 

The  spacious  areas  of  the  cotillion  rooms  are  be 
tween  80  and  90  feet  in  length,  and  when  enlivened  by 
the  associated  beauty  and  gaiety  resorting  to  the 
springs,  present  a  scene  of  novelty  and  fascination  sel 
dom  equalled. 

Among  other  amusements  in  the  place  may  be  men 
tioned  the  trout  fishery  at  Mr.  Hunger's  pond,  near  the 


SARATOGA    LAKE.  169 

Washington  Spring  in  the  south  part  of  the  village. 
The  location  is  pleasant,  and  the  pond  is  surrounded 
with  trees,  rendering  it  a  cool  and  desirable  retreat. 

About  two  miles  east  from  Saratoga  Springs  there  is 
also  a  small  fish  pond,  situated  on  the  farm  of  a  Mr.  Bar- 
hyte.  Parties  often  resort  thither  as  well  to  enjoy  the 
amusements  of  fishing  as  to  partake  of  a  repast  on 
trout,  the  proprietor  reserving  to  himself  the  exclusive 
privilege  of  serving  them  up.  Still  further  east,  about 
four  miles  from  the  Springs,  is  situated 

SARATOGA  LAKE.  This  lake  is  9  miles  long  and  3 
broad.  A  resort  is  constantly  kept  up  at  Greene's  and 
at  Riley's,  on  the  western  margin  of  the  lake,  the  for 
mer  about  four  and  the  latter  about  six  miles  distant 
from  Saratoga  Springs,  and  the  same  distance  from 
Ballson  Spa.  The  visitants  of  both  villages  frequently 
resort  thither,  to  enjoy  the  advantages  of  air  and  pros 
pect  during  the  months  of  July  and  August.  Sail  boats 
are  here  fitted  up  for  the  accommodation  of  parties  of 
pleasure,  and  implements  for  fishing  are  always  in 
readiness  for  those  who  take  pleasure  in  this  fashiona 
ble  diversion.  The  western  shores  of  this  lake  are  ac 
cessible  but  in  a  few  places,  in  consequence  of  the  ad 
jacent  marshes ;  on  the  east  side  the  land  is  more  ele 
vated,  and  presents  a  fine  prospect  of  farms  under  good 
improvement.  Besides  a  variety  of  excellent  fish,  an 
abundance  of  wild  game  is  found  on  the  lake  and  marsh 
es  and  along  its  borders.  This  lake  is  supplied  with 
water  from  the  Kayaderosseras  creek,  which,  taking  its 
rise  about  20  miles  in  a  northwest  direction,  and  receiv 
ing  in  its  course  a  number  of  tributary  streams,  flows 
into  the  lake  on  the  west  side.  Fish  creek  forms  its 


170  BEMUS'   HEIGHTS. 

outlet,  through  which  the  waters  of  the  lake  are  com 
municated  to  the  Hudson  river  about  8  miles  distant, 
in  an  easterly  direction.  This  creek  empties  into  the 
Hudson  river  at  Schuyler-Ville,  noticed  at  page  185. 

BEMUS'  HEIGHTS,  rendered  memorable  as  the  spot 
en  which  the  British  army  under  Gen.  Burgoyne  was 
defeated,  in  the  revolutionary  contest,  are  about  8  miles 
in  a  south- east wardly  direction  from  Greene's  on  the 
Saratoga  Lake.  The  battle  ground  is  about  two  miles 
west  of  the  Hudson  river ;  and  though  without  much 
to  attract  in  its  location  or  surrounding  scenery,  will 
nevertheless  at  all  times  prove  interesting  from  its  as 
sociation  with  events  which  greatly  contributed  to  the 
establishment  of  American  independence. 

The  two  actions  which  preceded  the  surrender  of 
the  British  army  were  fought  on  the  19th  of  Septem 
ber,  1777,  and  on  the  7th  of  October  folio wiug.  The 
movements  and  position  of  the  two  armies  previous  to 
the  19th,  are  thus  described  by  General  Wilkinson  : 

"  General  Burgoyne  crossed  the  Hudson  river  the 
13th  and  14th  of  September,  and  advanced  with  great 
circumspection  on  the  15th  from  Saratoga  to  Davocote, 
where  he  halted  to  repair  bridges  in  his  front.  The 
16th  was  employed  in  this  labour,  and  in  reconnoiter- 
ing :  on  the  17th  he  advanced  a  mile  or  two,  resumed 
his  march  on  the  18th,  and  General  Arnold  was  de 
tached  by  General  Gates,  with  1500  men  to  harrass 
him ;  but  after  a  light  skirmish,  he  returned  without 
loss  or  effecting  any  thing  more  than  picking  up  a  few 
stragglers :  and  the  enemy  moved  forward  and  en 
camped  in  two  lines,  about  two  miles  from  General 
Gates  ;  his  left  on  the  river,  and  his  right  extending  at 


BEMUS'   HEIGHTS.  171 

right  angles  to  it,  across  the  low  grounds  about  six 
hundred  yards,  to  a  range  of  steep  and  lofty  heights 
occupied  by  his  elite,  having  a  creek  or  gulley  in  his 
front,  made  by  a  rivulet  which  issued  from  a  great  ra 
vine,  formed  by  the  hills  which  ran  in  a  direction  near 
ly  parallel  to  the  river,  until  within  half  a  mile  of  the 
American  camp. 

"  General  Gates'  right  occupied  the  brow  of  the  hill 
near  the  river,  with  which  it  was  connected  by  a  deep 
intrenchment ;  his  camp  in  the  form  of  a  segment  of  a 
great  circle,  the  convex  towards  the  enemy,  extended 
rather  obliquely  to  his  rear,  about  three  fourths  of  a 
mile  to  a  knoll  occupied  by  his  left ;  his  front  was  cov 
ered  from  the  right  to  the  left  of  the  centre  by  a  sharp 
ravine  running  parallel  with  his  line  and  closely  wood 
ed  ;  from  thence  to  the  knoll  at  his  extreme  left,  the 
ground  was  level  and  had  been  partially  cleared,  some 
of  the  trees  being  felled  and  others  girdled,  beyond 
which,  in  front  of  his  left  flank,  and  extending  to  the 
enemy's  right,  there  were  several  small  fields  in  a  very 
imperfect  cultivation,  the  surface  bioken  and  obstruct 
ed  with  stumps  and  fallen  timber,  and  the  whole  boun 
ded  on  the  west  by  a  steep  eminenee.  The  extremi 
ties  of  this  camp  were  defended  by  strong  batteries, 
and  the  interval  was  strengthened  by  a  breast  work 
without  intrenchments,  constructed  of  the  bodies  of 
felled  trees,  logs  and  rails,  with  an  additional  battery 
at  an  opening  left  of  the  centre.  The  right  was  almost 
impracticable ;  the  left  difficult  of  approach.  I  describe 
the  defences  of  this  position  as  they  appeared  about 
the  4th  of  October. 


172  EEMUS5    HEIGHTS. 

11  The  intermediate  space  between  the  adverse  ar« 
mies,  on  the  low  grounds  of  the  river,  was  open  and  in 
cultivation ;  the  high  land  was  clothed  in  its  native 
woods,  with  the  exception  of  three  or  four  small,  new 
ly  opened  and  deserted  farms,  separated  by  intervals 
of  wood  land,  and  bordering  on  the  flanks  of  the  two 
armies,  most  remote  from  the  river ;  the  principal  of 
these  was  an  oblong  field,  belonging  to  a  person  of  the 
name  of  Freeman,  (noticed  at  p.  181  ;)  there  was  also 
exclusive  of  the  ravines  fronting  the  respective  camps, 
a  third  ravine  about  mid-way  between  them,  running 
at  right  angles  to  the  river.  The  intervening  forest 
rendered  it  utterly  impracticable  to  obtain  a  front  view 
of  the  American  position,  or  any  part  of  the  British  ex 
cept  its  left,  near  the  river." 

On  the  morning  of  the  19th,  Colonel  Colburn,  who 
had  been  detached  the  day  previous  to  observe  the 
movements  of  the  enemy,  reported  that  the  British  ar 
my  was  in  motion  and  ascending  the  heights  in  a  di 
rection  towards  the  American  left.  On  receiving  this 
intelligence,  Col.  Morgan,  with  his  rifle  corps,  was  de 
tached  by  Gen.  Gates,  with  orders  to  retard  the  march 
of  the  enemy,  and  to  cripple  them  as  much  as  possible. 
The  engagement  of  Morgan's  corps  was  announced  by 
the  report  of  small  arms  about  12  o'clock.  At  about 
3  in  the  afternoon  the  action  became  general,  and  con 
tinued  to  rage  till  night  closed  upon  the  scene  of  com 
bat.  The  number  of  troops  engaged  on  the  part  of  the 
Americans  was  3000.  That  of  the  British  amounted  to 
3500.  General  Wilkinson  remarks  that, 

"This  battle  was  perfectly  accidental:  neither  ot 
the  generals  meditated  an  attack  at  the  time,  and  but 


BEMUS*   HEIGHTS.  17S 

tor  Lieutenant  Colonel  Colburn's  report,  it  would  not 
have  taken  place ;  Burgoyne's  movement  being  merely 
to  take  ground  on  the  heights  in  front  of  the  great  ra 
vine,  to  give  his  several  corps  their  proper  places  in 
line,  to  embrace  our  front  and  cover  his  transport, 
stores,  provisions  and  baggage,  in  the  rear  of  his  left  j 
and  on  our  side  the  defences  of  our  camp  being  not 
half  completed,  and  reinforcements  daily  arriving,  it 
was  not  General  Gate's  policy  to  court  an  action. 

"  The  theatre  of  action  was  such,  that  although  the 
combatants  changed  ground  a  dozen  times  in  the  course 
of  the  day,  the  contest  terminated  on  the  spot  where 
it  began.  This  may  be  explained  in  a  few  words.  The 
British  line  was  formed  on  an  eminence  in  a  thin  pine 
wood,  having  before  it  Freeman's  farm,  an  oblong  field 
stretching  from  the  centre  towards  its  right,  the  ground 
in  front  sloping  gently  down  to  the  verge  of  this  field, 
which  was  bordering  on  the  opposite  side  by  a  close 
wood ;  the  sanguinary  scene  lay  in  the  cleared  ground, 
between  the  eminence  occupied  by  the  enemy  and  the 
wood  just  described ;  the  fire  of  our  marksmen  from 
this  wood  was  two  deadly  to  be  withstood  by  the  en 
emy  in  line,  and  when  they  gave  way  and  broke,  our 
men  rushing  from  their  covert,  pursued  them  to  the 
eminence,  where,  having  their  flanks  protected,  they 
rallied,  and  charging  in  turn,  drove  us  back  into  the 
wood,  from  whence  a  dreadful  fire  would  again  force 
them  to  fall  back  ;  and  in  this  manner  did  the  battle 
fluctuate,  like  waves  of  a  stormy  sea,  with  alternate 
advantage,  for  four  hours,  without  one  moment's  inter 
mission.  The  British  artillery  fell  into  our  possession 
at  every  charge,  but  we  could  neither  turn  the  pieces 


174  BEMUS'   HEIGHTS. 

upon  the  enemy,  nor  bring  them  off;  the  wood  prevent 
ed  the  last,  and  the  want  of  a  match  the  first,  as  the 
lint  stock  was  invariably  carried  ofF,  and  the  rapidity 
of  the  transitions  did  not  allow  us  time  to  provide  one. 
The  slaughter  of  this  brigade  of  artillerists  was  remark 
able,  the  captain  and  36  men  being  killed  or  wounded, 
out  of  48.  It  was  truly  a  gallant  conflict,  in  which 
death  by  familiarity  lost  his  terrors,  and  certainly  a 
drawn  battle,  as  night  alone  terminated  it ;  the  British 
army  keeping  its  ground  in  rear  of  the  field  of  action, 
and  our  corps,  when  they  could  no  longer  distinguish 
objects,  retiring  to  their  own  camp." 

The  interval  between  the  19th  of  September  and  the 
7th  of  October  was  employed  by  both  armies  in  fortify 
ing  their  respective  camps.  Gen.  Burgoyne  had  con 
templated  an  attack  on  the  20th  and  21st  September, 
which,  had  it  been  made,  would  probably  have  result 
ed  much  to  his  advantage,  as  the  American  camp  was 
then  in  an  unfortified  state,  and  the  troops  wholly  un 
prepared  for  a  vigorous  resistance.  For  some  cause, 
however,  the  attack  was  delayed.  This  gave  time  to 
Gen.  Gates  to  complete  the  unfinished  works,  and  to 
strengthen  his  army  by  reinforcements  of  militiamen, 
who  were  daily  flocking  to  his  camp.  Satisfied  that  a 
delay  would  operate  to  the  advantage  of  the  American 
army,  by  increasing  their  strength  and  numbers,  whilst 
at  the  same  time  it  must  prove  disadvantageous  to  the 
enemy,  General  Gates,  it  seems,  determined  to  wait 
their  movements  within  his  own  entrenchments.  Here 
he  remained  until  the  7th  October,  when  the  last  deci 
sive  action  was  fought,  which  decided  the  fate  of  the 
army  under  Gen.  Burgoyne,  and  ultimately  resulted  in 


BEMUS'   HEIGHTS.  175 

the  triumph  of  American  liberty.  The  commencement, 
progress  and  termination  of  this  brilliant  engagement 
are  thus  described  by  Gen.  Wilkinson : 

"  On  the  afternoon  of  October  7th,  the  advanced 
guard  of  the  centre  beat  to  arms ;  the  alarm  was  re 
peated  throughout  the  line,  and  the  troops  repaired  to 
their  alarm  posts.  I  was  at  head  quarters  when  this 
happened,  and,  with  the  approbation  of  the  General, 
mounted  my  horse  to  inquire  the  cause ;  but  on  reach 
ing  the  guard  where  the  beat  commenced,  I  could  ob 
tain  no  other  satisfaction,  but  that  some  person  had  re 
ported  the  enemy  to  be  advancing  against  our  left.  I 
proceeded  over  open  ground,  and  ascending  a  gentle 
acclivity  in  front  of  the  guard,  I  perceived  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  line  of  our  encampment,  several  columns 
of  the  enemy,  60  or  70  rods  from  me,  entering  a  wheat 
field  which  had  not  been  cut,  and  was  separated  from 
me  by  a  small  rivulet ;  and  without  my  glass  I  could 
distinctly  mark  their  every  movement.  After  entering 
the  field  they  displayed,  formed  the  line,  and  set  down 
in  double  ranks  with  their  arms  between  their  legs. 
Foragers  then  proceeded  to  cut  the  wheat  or  standing 
straw,  and  I  soon  after  observed  several  officers,  mount 
ed  on  the  top  of  a  cabin,  from  whence  with  their  glass 
es  they  were  endeavoring  to  reconnoitre  our  left,  which 
was  concealed  from  their  view  by  intervening  woods. 

"  Having  satisfied  myself,  after  fifteen  minutes  at 
tentive  observation,  that  no  attack  was  meditated,  I 
returned  and  reported  to  the  General,  who  asked  me 
what  appeared  to  be  the  intentions  of  the  enemy. 
"  They  are  foraging,  and  endeavoring  to  reconnoitre 
your  left;  and  I  think,  sir,  they  offer  you  battle." 


17G  BEMUS'   HEIGHTS. 

"  What  is  the  nature  of  the  ground,  and  what  your 
opinion  ?"  "  Their  front  is  open,  and  their  flanks  rest 
on  the  woods,  under  cover  of  which  they  may  be  at 
tacked  ;  their  right  is  skirted  by  a  lofty  height.  I 
would  indulge  them."  "  Well,  then,  order  on  Morgan 
to  begin  the  game."  I  waited  on  the  Colonel,  whose 
corps  was  formed  in  front  of  our  centre,  and  delivered 
the  order  ;  he  knew  the  ground,  and  inquired  the  posi 
tion  of  the  enemy ;  they  were  formed  across  a  newly 
cultivated  field,  their  grenadiers  with  several  field  pie 
ces  on  the  left,  bordering  on  a  wood  and  a  small  ravine 
formed  by  the  rivulet  before  alluded  to  ;  their  light  in 
fantry  on  the  right,  covered  by  a  worm  fence  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill  before  mentioned,  thickly  covered  with 
wood ;  their  centre  composed  of  British  and  German 
battalions.  Col.  Morgan,  with  his  usual  sagacity,  pro 
posed  to  make  a  circuit  with  his  corps  by  our  left,  and 
under  cover  of  the  wood  to  gain  the  height  on  the  right 
of  the  enemy,  and  from  thence  commence  his  attack, 
so  soon  as  our  fire  should  be  opened  against  their  left ; 
the  plan  was  the  best,  which  could  be  devised,  and  no 
doubt  contributed  essentially  to  the  prompt  and  deci 
sive  victory  we  gained. 

"  This  proposition  was  approved  by  the  General,  and 
it  was  concerted  that  time  should  be  allowed  the  Col 
onel  to  make  the  proposed  circuit,  and  gain  his  station 
on  the  enemy's  right  before  the  attack  should  be  made 
on  their  left  ;  Poor's  brigade  was  ordered  for  this  ser 
vice,  and  the  attack  was  commenced  in  due  season  on 
the  flank  and  front  of  the  British  grenadiers,  by  the 
New-Hampshire  and  New- York  troops.  True  to  his 
purpose,  Morgan  at  this  critical  moment  poured  down 


BEMUS'    HEIGHTS.  177 

Uke  a  torrent  from  the  hill,  and  attacked  the  right  of 
the  enemy  in  front  and  flank.  Dearborn,  at  the  mo 
ment  when  the  enemy's  light  infantry  were  attempting 
to  change  front,  pressed  forward  with  ardor,  and  de 
livered  a  close  fire ;  then  leaped  the  fence,  shouted, 
charged,  and  gallantly  forced  them  to  retire  in  disor 
der  ;  yet,  headed  by  that  intrepid  soldier,  the  Earl  of 
Balcarras,  they  were  immediately  rallied,  and  re-formed 
behind  a  fence  in  rear  of  their  first  position  ;  but  being 
now  attacked  with  great  audacity,  in  front  and  flank, 
by  superior  numbers,  resistance  became  vain,  and  the 
whole  line,  commanded  by  Burgoyne  in  person,  gave 
way,  and  made  a  precipitate  and  disorderly  retreat  to 
his  camp,  leaving  two  twelve  and  six  six-pounders  on 
the  field,  with  the  loss  of  more  than  400  officers  and 
men,  killed,  wounded  and  captured,  and  among  them 
the  flower  of  his  officers,  viz.  Brigadier  General  Frazer; 
Major  Ackland,  commanding  the  grenadiers  j  Sir  Fran 
cis  Clark,  his  first  aid-de-camp  ;  Major  Williams,  com 
manding  officer  of  the  artillery  ;  Captain  Mooney,  de 
puty  quarter-master-general ;  and  many  others.  After 
delivering  the  order  to  General  Poor,  and  directing  him 
to  the  point  of  attack,  I  was  peremptorily  commanded 
to  repair  to  the  rear,  and  order  up  Ten  Broeck's  regi 
ment  of  New- York  militia,  3000  strong.  I  performed 
this  service  and  regained  the  field  of  battle  at  the  mo 
ment  the  enemy  had  turned  their  backs-— 52  minutes 
after  the  first  shot  was  fired.  The  ground  which  had 
been  occupied  by  the  British  grenadiers,  presented  a 
scene  of  complicated  horror  and  exultation.  In  the 
square  space  of  twelve  or  fifteen  yards  lay  eighteen 
grenadiers  in  the  agonies  of  death,  and  three  officers 


178  BEMUS*   HEIGHTS. 

propped  up  against  stumps  of  trees,  two  of  them  mor 
tally  wounded,  bleeding,  and  almost  speechless.  What 
a  spectacle  for  one  whose  bosom  glowed  with  philan 
thropy  ;  and  how  vehement  the  impulse  which  excites 
men  of  sensibility  to  seek  such  scenes  of  barbarism  !  I 
found  the  courageous  Col.  Cilley  a-straddle  on  a  brass 
twelve  pounder,  and  exulting  in  the  capture  ;  whilst  a 
surgeon,  a  man  of  great  worth,  who  was  dressing  one 
of  the  officers,  raising-  his  blood-besmeared  hands  in 
the  phrensy  of  patriotism,  exclaimed,  "  Wilkinson,  I 
have  dipped  my  hands  in  British  blood."  He  received 
a  sharp  rebuke  for  his  brutality ;  and  with  the  troops  I 
pursued  the  hard  pressed  flying-  enemy,  passing  over 
killed  and  wounded,  until  I  heard  one  exclaim,  "  Pro 
tect  me,  sir,  against  this  boy."  Turning  my  eyes,  it 
was  my  fortune  to  arrest  the  purpose  of  a  lad  thirteen 
or  fourteen  years  old,  in  the  act  of  taking  aim  at  a 
wounded  officer,  who  lay  in  the  angle  of  a  worm  fence. 
Inquiring  his  rank,  he  answered,  "  I  had  the  honor  to 
command  the  grenadiers."  Of  course,  I  knew  him  to 
be  Major  Ackland,  who  had  been  brought  from  the 
field  to  this  place,  on  the  back  of  a  Captain  Shrimpton, 
of  his  own  corps,  under  a  heavy  fire,  and  was  here  de 
posited,  to  save  the  lives  of  both.  I  dismounted,  took 
him  by  the  hand,  and  expressed  my  hopes  that  he  was 
not  badly  wounded.  "  Not  badly,"  replied  this  gallant 
officer  and  accomplished  gentleman,  "  but  very  incon 
veniently.  I  am  shot  through  both  legs.  Will  you, 
sir,  have  the  goodness  to  have  me  conveyed  to  your 
camp  ?"  I  directed  my  servant  to  alight,  and  we  lifted 
Ackland  into  his  seat,  and  ordered  him  to  be  conducted 
to  head  quarters.  I  then  proceeded  to  the  scene  of 


BEMUS'  HEIGHTS.  179 

renewed  action,  which  embraced  Burgoyne's  right 
flank  defence,  and  extending  to  his  left,  crossed  a  hol 
low  covered  with  wood,  about  40  rods,  to  the  intrench- 
ment  of  the  light  infantry.  The  roar  of  the  cannon 
and  small  arms,  at  this  juncture,  was  sublime,  between 
the  enemy,  behind  their  works,  and  our  troops  entirely 
exposed,  or  partially  sheltered  by  trees,  stumps  or  hol 
lows,  at  various  distances,  not  exceeding  120  yards. 
This  right  flank  defence  of  the  enemy,  occupied  by  the 
German  corps  of  Breyman,  consisted  of  a  breast  work 
of  rails  piled  horizontally  between  perpendicular  pick 
ets,  driven  into  the  earth,  en  potence  to  the  rest  of  his 
line,  and  extended  about  250  yards  across  an  open 
field,  and  was  covered  on  the  right  by  a  battery  of  two 
guns.  The  interval  from  the  left  to  the  British  light 
infantry,  was  committed  to  the  defence  of  the  provin- 
cialists,  who  occupied  a  couple  of  log  cabins.  The 
Germans  were  encamped  immediately  behind  the  rail 
breast  work,  and  the  ground  in  front  of  it  declined,  in 
a  very  gentle  slope,  for  about  120  yards,  when  it  sunk 
abruptly.  Our  troops  had  formed  a  line  under  this  de 
clivity,  and  covered  breast  high,  were  warmly  engaged 
with  the  Germans.  From  this  position,  about  sunset, 
I  perceived  Brigadier  General  Learned  advancing  to 
wards  the  enemy  with  his  brigade,  in  open  column,  I 
think  with  Col.  M.  Jackson's  regiment  in  front,  as  I 
saw  Lieutenant  Colonel  Brooks,  who  commanded  it, 
near  the  General  when  I  rode  up  to  him.  On  saluting 
this  brave  old  soldier,  he  inquired,  "  Where  can  I  put  in 
with  most  advantage  ?"  I  had  particularly  examined 
the  ground  between  the  left  of  the  Germans  and  the 
light  infantry,  occupied  by  the  provinciaiists,  from 
p2 


180  BEMUS5   HEIGHTS. 

whence  I  had  observed  a  slack  fire.  I  therefore  reconi" 
mended  to  General  Learned  to  incline  to  his  right,  and 
attack  at  that  point.  He  did  so,  with  great  gallantry ; 
the  provincialists  abandoned  their  position  and  fled. 
The  German  flank  was,  by  this  means,  left  uncovered. 
They  were  assaulted  vigorously,  overturned  in  five 
minutes,  and  retreated  in  disorder,  leaving  their  gallant 
commander,  Lieut.  Colonel  Breyman,  dead  on  the  field. 
By  dislodging  this  corps,  the  whole  British  encamp 
ment  was  laid  open  to  us ;  but  the  extreme  darkness 
of  the  night,  the  fatigue  of  the  men,  and  the  disorder 
incident  to  undisciplined  troops,  after  so  desultory  an 
action,  put  it  out  of  our  power  to  improve  the  advan 
tage  ;  and,  in  the  course  of  the  night,  General  Burgoyne 
broke  up  his  camp,  and  retired  to  his  original  position, 
which  he  had  fortified,  behind  the  great  ravine." 

On  the  morning  of  the  8th,  the  American  army 
marched  into  the  British  camp,  which  had  been  de 
serted  the  evening  previous.  The  enemy  continued  to 
retreat  till  they  had  reached  the  height  beyond  the  Fish 
creek,  where  they  encamped  on  the  10th.  Finding  his 
retreat  cut  off  by  a  party  of  troops,  who  had  taken  a 
position  in  his  rear,  and  his  advance  impeded  by  supe 
rior  numbers,  General  Burgoyne  accepted  the  terms  of 
capitulation,  proposed  by  General  Gates,  and  surren 
dered  his  whole  army  to  the  American  forces,  on  the 
17th  October,  1777.  The  surrender  took  place  at  Fort 
Hardy,  where  the  British  stacked  their  arms,  and  were 
permitted  to  march  out  with  the  honors  of  war.  This 
fortunate  event  was  followed  by  a  succession  of  bril 
liant  achievements,  and  finally  led  to  the  surrender  of 
Lord  Cornwallis,  which  terminated  the  struggle  of  the 


BEMUS'   HEIGHTS.  181 

revolution,  after  a  period  of  nearly  8  years  from  its 
commencement. 

FREEMAN'S  FARM,  on  which  the  principal  actions 
were  fought,  is  immediately  east  of  the  main  road  run 
ning  north  and  south,  a  road  passing  directly  across  it 
to  the  Hudson  river  in  an  eastwardly  direction.  In  a 
meadow  adjoining  the  first  mentioned  road,  about  tea 
rods  south  of  a  blacksmith's  shop,  and  near  the  fence, 
is  the  spot  where  Gen.  Frazer  fell.  A  large  bass-wood 
tree  marked  the  place  for  a  time  ;  but  having  been  cut 
down,  several  sprouts  which  have  sprung  up  from  the 
parent  stock,  now  designate  the  spot.  A  few  rods  di 
rectly  south  of  this,  on  a  slight  eminence,  is  shown  the 
place  where  Col.  Cilley  sat  a-straddle  of  a  brass  twelve 
pounder,  exulting  in  its  capture ;  and  about  half  a  mile 
still  farther  south  is  shown  the  house,  still  standing, 
which  was  used  by  Gen.  Gates  as  his  head-quarters. 

In  proceeding  to  the  river,  the  hill  on  which  General 
Frazer  is  buried  is  pointed  out,  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
east  of  the  battle  ground,  and  20  rods  north  of  the  road. 
His  remains  were  deposited  at  his  request,  within  a 
redoubt  on  the  top  of  this  hill.  The  redoubt,  which  is 
of  an  oblong  form,  from  100  to  150  feet  in  diameter,  is 
still  perfectly  visible  ;  and  the  spot  of  Gen.  Frazer's  in 
terment  is  near  the  centre.  The  British  government, 
a  few  years  since,  employed  an  agent  to  erect  a  monu 
ment  to  his  memory  ;  but  proving  faithless,  he  appro 
priated  the  money  with  which  he  was  entrusted  to  his 
own  use,  and  returned  without  effecting:  the  object  of 
his  mission,  pretending  his  inability  to  discover  the  spot 
in  question.  It  therefore  continues  undistinguished  by 
a  monument,  or  even  a  stone,  to  mark  the  place  where 
repose  the  remains  of  this  gallant  warrior. 


182  fiEMUS*    HEIGHTS. 

SMITH'S  HOUSE,  in  which  General  Frazer  died,*  and 
which,  at  that  time,  stood  near  the  foot  of  this  hill,  has 
been  removed  about  80  rods  in  a  north-eastwardly  di 
rection  to  the  turnpike.  It  is  a  low  old  fashioned 


*  General  Frazer  died  on  the  8th  of  October,  1777, 
from  wounds  received  in  battle  the  day  previous.  A 
narrative  of  his  death  is  given  by  the  Baroness  De  Reid- 
sell,  who,  with  her  two  children,  occupied  the  house  in 
which  the  General  expired.  The  following  is  an  ex 
tract  : 

"  But  severe  trials  awaited  us,  and  on  the  7th  Octo 
ber  our  misfortunes  began  ;  I  was  at  breakfast  with  my 
husband,  and  heard  that  something  was  intended.  On 
the  same  day  I  expected  Generals  Burgoyne,  Philips 
and  Frazer  to  dine  with  us.  I  saw  a  great  movement 
among  the  troops  ;  my  husband  told  me,  it  was  merely 
a  reconnoissance,  which  gave  me  no  concern,  as  it  of 
ten  happened.  I  walked  out  of  the  house  and  met  sev 
eral  Indians  in  their  war  dresses,  with  guns  in  their 
hands.  When  I  asked  them  where  they  were  going, 
they  cried  out,  War  !  War  !  (meaning  that  they  were 
going  to  battle.)  This  rilled  me  with  apprehension, 
and  I  had  scarcely  got  home,  before  I  heard  reports  of 
cannon  and  musketry,  which  grew  louder  by  degrees, 
till  at  last  the  noise  became  excessive.  About  4  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon  instead  of  the  guests  whom  I  expected, 
Gen.  Frazer  was  brought  in  on  a  litter,  mortally  woun 
ded.  The  table  which  was  already  set,  was  instantly 
removed,  and  a  bed  placed  in  its  stead  for  the  wounded 
General.  I  sat  trembling  in  the  corner ;  the  noise 
grew  louder  and  the  alarm  increased  ;  the  thought  that 
my  husband  might  perhaps  be  brought  in,  wounded  in 
the  same  way,  was  terrible  to  me,  and  distressed  me 
exceedingly.  General  Frazer  said  to  the  surgeon,  "telt 
me  if  my  wound  is  mortal,  do  not  flatter  me."  The  ball 
had  passed  through  his  body,  and  unhappily  for  the 
General,  he  had  eaten  a  very  hearty  breakfast,  by  which 


BEMUS'    HEIGHTS, 


18S 


Dutch  building,  with  the  gable  end  to  the  river,  paint 
ed  yellow — the  sides  red,  and  shingle  roof.  The  en 
trance  is  towards  the  river,  under  an  old  and  dilapida 
ted  portico — and  the  whole  bears  the  marks  of  anti- 


the  stomach  was  distended,  and  the  ball,  as  the  sur 
geon  said,  had  passed  through  it.  I  heard  him  often 
exclaim  with  a  sigh,  "  Oh  fatal  ambition!  Poor  General 
Burgoyne !  Ok  my  poor  wife  /"  He  was  asked  if  he  had 
any  request  to  make,  to  which  he  replied,  that  "  if  Gen. 
Burgoyne  would  permit  it,  he  should  like  to  be  buried  at  6 
o'clock  in  the  evening,  on  the  top  of  a  mountain,  in  a  re- 
doubt  which  had  been  built  there."  I  did  not  know  which 
way  to  turn,  all  the  other  rooms  were  full  of  sick.  To 
wards  evening  I  saw  my  husband  coming,  when  I  for 
got  all  my  sorrows,  and  thanked  God  that  he  was  spar 
ed  to  me.  He  ate  in  great  haste  with  me  and  his  aid- 
de-camp,  behind  the  house.  We  had  been  told  that  we 
had  the  advantage  of  the  enemy,  but  the  sorrowful 
faces  I  beheld  told  a  different  tale,  and  before  my  hus 
band  went  away  he  took  me  one  side,  and  said  every 
thing  was  going  very  bad,  that  I  must  keep  myself  in 
readiness  to  leave  the  place,  but  not  to  mention  it  to 
any  one.  I  made  the  pretence  that  I  would  move  the 
next  morning  into  my  new  house,  and  had  every  thing 
packed  up  ready. 

"  Lady  H.  Ackland  had  a  tent  not  far  from  our 
house.  In  this  she  slept,  and  the  rest  of  the  day  she 
was  in  the  camp.  All  of  a  sudden,  a  man  came  to  tell 
her  that  her  husband  was  mortally  wounded  and  taken 
prisoner.  On  hearing  this,  she  became  very  miserable. 
We  comforted  her  by  telling  her  that  the  wound  was 
only  slight,  and  at  the  same  time  advised  her  to  go  over 
to  her  husband,  to  do  which  she  would  certainly  ob 
tain  permission,  and  then  she  could  attend  him  herself. 
She  was  a  charming  woman,  and  very  fond  of  him.  I 
spent  much  of  the  night  in  comforting  her,  and  then 
went  again  to  my  children,  whom  I  had  put  to  bed.  I 


1S4  BEMUS*    HEIGHTS. 

quity — the  only  addition  to  it  being  a  small  out  house. 
The  room  in  which  Gen.  Frazer  died  is  directly  in  front, 
and  has  undergone  no  material  change  since  that  period. 


could  not  go  to  sleep,  as  I  had  Gen.  Frazer,  and  all  the 
other  wounded  gentlemen,  in  my  room,  and  I  was  sad 
ly  afraid  my  children  would  awake,  and  by  their  crying 
disturb  the  dying  man  in  his  last  moments,  who  often 
addressed  me,  and  apologized  "/or  the  trouble  he  gave 
me."  About  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  I  was  told 
he  could  not  hold  out  much  longer.  I  had  desired  to 
be  informed  of  the  near  approach  of  this  sad  crisis ; 
and  I  then  wrapped  up  my  children  in  their  clothes, 
and  went  with  them  into  the  room  below.  About  8 
o'clock  in  the  morning  he  died.  After  he  was  laid  out, 
and  his  corpse  wrapped  in  a  sheet,  we  came  again  into 
the  room,  and^had  this  sorrowful  sight  before  us  the 
whole  day ;  and  to  add  to  the  melancholy  scene,  almost 
every  moment  some  officer  of  my  acquaintance  was 
brought  in  wounded.  The  cannonade  commenced 
again  ;  a  retreat  was  spoken  of,  but  not  the  smallest 
motion  made  towards  it.  About  4  o'clock  in  the  after 
noon,  I  saw  the  house  which  had  just  been  built  for  me 
in  flames,  and  the  enemy  was  not  far  off.  We  knew 
that  Gen.  Burgoyne  would  not  refuse  the  last  request 
of  Gen.  Frazer,  though  by  his  acceding  to  it,  an  unne 
cessary  delay  was  occasioned,  by  which  the  inconve 
nience  of  the  army  was  much  increased.  At  6  o'clock 
the  corpse  was  brought  out,  and  we  saw  all  the  generals 
attend  it  to  the  mountain.  The  chaplain,  Mr.  Bruden- 
ell,  performed  the  funeral  service,  rendered  unusually 
solemn  and  awful  from  its  being  accompanied  by  con 
stant  peals  from  the  enemy's  artillery.  Many  cannon 
balls  flew  close  by  me,  but  I  had  my  eyes  directed  to 
wards  the  mountain,  where  my  husband  was  standing, 
jamidst  the  fire  of  the  enemy,  and  of  course  I  could  not 
think  of  my  own  danger.  Gen.  Gates  afterwards  said, 
that  if  he  had  known  it  had  been  a  funeral,  he  would 
not  have  permitted  it  to  be  fired  on." 


SCHUYLER-VILLE.  185 

About  half  a  mile  south  of  Smith's  house,  near  the 
river,  is  the  residence  of  Major  EZRA  BUELL,  who  was 
in  the  army  of  Gen.  Gates,  and  who  has  since  contin 
ued  to  reside  on  this  interesting  spot.  Though  advan 
ced  to  the  age  of  86  years,  his  memory  is  still  good,  and 
he  yearly  accompanies  strangers  in  their  excursions 
over  the  battle  ground,  pointing  out  to  them  the  differ 
ent  scites  on  which  the  most  important  events  trans 
pired.  Eight  miles  north  of  this,  on  the  turnpike,  is 
the  village  of  ^ 

SCHUYLER- VILLE,  noted  as  the  residence  of  the  late 
Gen.  Schuyler,  and  still  more  so  as  the  place  where 
Gen.  Burgoyne  surrendered  to  the  American  army  in 
October,  1777. 

The  ground  on  which  the  surrender  took  place,  was 
in  a  vale  nearly  east,  and  in  plain  view  of  Barker's  stage 
house  on  the  turnpike  in  Schuyler-Ville,  and  still  ex 
hibits  the  remains  of  an  intrenchment  called  Fort  Har 
dy.  About  40  rods  in  a  south-east  direction,  at  the 
mouth  of  Fish  creek,  is  the  scite  of  Fort  Schuyler. 
The  arms  of  the  British  were  stacked  in  the  vale  in 
front  of  Fort  Hardy,  and  from  thence  they  were  march 
ed  to  the  high  grounds  a  little  west  of  the  village,  and 
admitted  to  parol  as  prisoners  of  \var.  At  the  south 
ern  extremity  of  the  Vale  is  a  basin  for  the  northern  ca 
nal,  which  passes  through  this  place.  About  half  a 
mile  south  of  the  basin  stands  the  house  of  Philip  Schuy 
ler,  Esq.,  located  on  the  spot  where  once  stood  the 
mansion  of  his  grandfather,  the  intrepid  Gen.  Schuyler, 
which,  with  other  buildings,  was  burnt  by  the  British 
army,  on  their  retreat  from  the  battle  of  the  7th. 


186  FORT-EDWARD. 

The  village  contains  70  or  80  houses,  and  an  exten 
sive  cotton  factory  and  machine  shop — the  latter  own 
ed  by  Mr.  Schuyler. 

FORT-EDWARD  is  12  miles  north  of  Schuyler- Ville. 
It  is  not  on  the  usual  route  of  travellers  from  the 
Springs  to  Lake  George;  but  being  a  short  distance 
only  from  Sandy-Hill,  it  may  be  easily  visited.  The 
fort,  once  situated  where  the  village  now  stands,  has 
long  since  been  demolished ;  though  its  former  loca 
tion  is  easily  traced  in  the  mounds  of  earth  which  are 
still  visible.  About  100  rods  north  of  the  village  is  a 
dam  across  the  Hudson  river,  27  feet  high  and  900  feet 
long,  supplying  with  water  a  feeder  to  the  Northern 
Canal.  The  cost  of  this  dam  was  $30,000.  There  is 
also  a  permanent  bridge  across  the  river  a  short  dis 
tance  below. 

One  mile  north  of  Fort-Edward,  on  the  west  side  of 
the  road,  the  traveller  is  shown  a  large  pine  tree,  with 
a  spring  near  its  foot,  memorable  as  the  spot  where 
Miss  M'CREA  was  murdered  by  the  Indians  during  the 
revolutionary  war.  She  was  betrothed  to  a  Mr.  Jones, 
an  American  refugee,  who  was  in  Burgoyne's  army. 
Anxious  for  a  union  with  his  intended  bride,  he  dis 
patched  a  party  of  Indians  to  escort  her  to  the  British 
camp.  Against  the  remonstrance  of  her  friends,  she 
committed  herself  to  their  charge.  She  was  placed  on 
horseback,  and  accompanied  her  guides  to  the  spring 
in  question,  where  they  were  met  by  another  party  sent 
on  the  same  errand.  An  altercation  ensued  between 
them  as  to  the  promised  reward,  (which  was  a  barrel  of 
rum,)  and  while  thus  engaged,  they  were  attacked  by 
the  whites.  At  the  close  of  the  conflict,  the  unhappy 


SANDY  HILL — GLEN?S   FALLS.  187 

young  woman  was  found  a  short  distance  from  the 
spring,  tomahawked  and  scalped.  There  is  a  tradition 
that  her  scalp  was  divided  by  the  respective  parties, 
and  carried  to  her  agonized  lover.  He  is  said  to  have 
survived  the  shock  but  a  short  time  ;  and  to  have  died 
of  a  broken  heart.  The  name  of  Miss  M'Crea  is  in 
scribed  on  the  tree,  with  the  date  1777.  Her  remains 
were  disintened  a  few  years  since,  and  deposited  in 
the  church-yard  at  Sandy  Hill. 

SANDY  HILL  is  two  miles  from  Fort  Edward,  on  the 
route  from  Saratoga  Springs  to  Lake  George.  It  is  sit 
uated  on  the  margin  of  the  Hudson  river,  immediately 
above  Baker's  Falls,  about  18  miles  from  the  Springs. 
A  wooden  bridge  extends  across  the  river  at  this  place, 
from  which  the  road  leads  up  a  precipitous  ascent,  on 
the  summit  of  which  the  village  is  situated.  The 
streets  are  laid  out  in  the  form  of  a  triangle.  In  the 
centre  is  an  open  area,  surrounded  by  handsomely 
constructed  stores  and  dwellings.  The  village  con 
tains  upwards  of  100  houses,  and  about  500  inhabi 
tants.  The  courts  of  the  county  are  held  alternately 
here  and  at  Salem. 

GLEN'S  FALLS,  a  village  of  about  the  same  size  of 
Sandy  Hill,  is  3  miles  further  up  the  Hudson  river,  on 
the  direct  route  to  Lake  George.  At  this  place  are  the 
celebrated  falls  from  which  the  village  takes  its  name. 
These  are  situated  about  1-4  of  a  mile  south  of  the  vil 
lage,  near  to  a  permanent  bridge,  extending  partly  over 
the  falls,  and  from  which  the  best  view  of  them  may 
be  had.  The  falls  are  formed  by  the  waters  of  'he 
Hudson,  which  flow  in  one  sheet  over  the  brink  of  the 
precipice,  but  are  immediately  divided  by  the  rocks  into 


188  GLEN'S  FALLS. 

three  channels.  The  height  of  the  falls  is  ascertained, 
by  measurement,  to  be  63  feet ;  though  the  water  flows 
in  an  angular  descent  of  4  or  500  feet.  Some  rods  be 
low  the  falls,  is  a  long  cave  in  the  rocks,  extending 
from  one  channel  to  the  other.  On  its  walls  are  in 
scribed  a  variety  of  names  of  former  guests,  who  have 
thought  proper  to  pay  this  customary  tribute.  The 
rocks,  which  are  at  some  seasons  covered  with  water, 
but  at  others  entirely  dry,  are  chequered  by  small  in 
dentations,  and  in  many  places  considerable  chasms 
are  formed,  probably  by  pebbles  kept  in  motion  by  the 
falling  water.  It  is  very  evident  that  these  falls,  like 
those  of  Niagara,  were  once  a  considerable  distance 
lower  down  the  river — the  banks  below  being  compo 
sed  of  shelving  rocks,  from  30  to  70  feet  perpendicular 
height.  On  the  north  side  of  the  river  is  a  navigable 
feeder,  communicating  with  the  Champlain  canal.  It 
commences  nearly  two  miles  above  the  falls  ;  and  with 
the  exception  of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  which  ap 
pears  to  have  been  cut  out  of  a  shelving  rock,  runs 
along  a  ravine  east  of  Sandy-Hill ;  and  intersects  the 
main  canal  some  distance  below.* 


*  JESSUP'S  FALLS,  which  are  about  10  miles  above 
Glen's  Falls  on  the  Hudson,  are  worthy  the  attention 
of  travellers.  The  whole  scenery  is  highly  romantic  and 
picturesque,  and  the  descent  of  the  falls,  which  are 
perpendicular,  and  embrace  the  whole  river  in  an  en 
tire  sheet,  is  nearly  100  feet.  Five  miles  farther  north 
are  the  HADLET  FALLS,  which  are  a  succession  of  pitch 
es  over  a  rocky  and  uneven  bed.  The  whole  descent, 
commencing  at  the  upper  fall,  is  between  80  and  100 
feet.  Over  the  lower  fall  a  permanent  bridge,  (see  en 
graving,)  about  50  feet  from  the  water  is  erected.  The 


HAULEY    FALLS.'  189 

Conveyances  from  Sandy  Hill,  via  Glen's  Falls,  to 
Lake  George,  may  at  all  times  be  procured,  for  the 
moderate  fare  of  one  dollar.  From  Glen's  Falls  to  the 
Lake  the  distance  is  9  miles,  over  on  indifferent  road, 
affording  little  other  variety  than  mountains  and  forests, 
with  here  and  there  a  rustic  hamlet.  Within  3  1-2 
miles  of  Lake  George  on  the  right  hand,  and  a  short 
distance  from  the  road,  is  pointed  out  the  rock,  at  the 
foot  of  which  Col.  Williams  was  massacred  by  the  In 
dians,  during  the  French  war.  At  the  distance  of  1-2  a 
mile  farther,  on  the  same  side  of  the  road,  is  the 
"  Bloody  Pond,"  so  called  from  its  waters  having  been 
crimsoned  with  the  blood  of  the  slain  who  fell  in  its  vi 
cinity,  during  a  severe  engagement  in  1755.  It  is  said, 
that  skulls  are  found  in  the  neighborhood  of  this  pond, 
and  that  numerous  others  may  be  taken  from  the  bot 
tom.  Three  miles  farther  is  situated  the  village  of 


river  is  here  contracted  to  a  very  narrow  space,  within 
lofty  rocky  embankments,  between  which  the  water 
rushes  with  great  force  and  wildness  into  the  basin  be 
low,  uniting  with  the  Sacondaga  river,  a  large  and  rapid 
stream,  which  rises  about  60  miles  at  the  north-west. 
Both  of  these  rivers  abound  with  trout  and  other  fish, 
affording  ample  employment  for  those  who  are  fond  of 
angling.  The  country  here  is  extremely  rugged  and 
mountainous,  and  presents  but  little  appearance  of  cul 
tivation. 

Travellers  designing  to  visit  these  places,  will  find  it 
the  most  convenient  to  take  a  carriage  at  Saratoga 
Springs,  from  which  to  Jessup's  Falls  is  14  miles,  and 
to  Hadley  Falls  5  miles  farther.  The  route  is  over  a 
good  road,  and,  including  a  visit  of  two  or  three  hours, 
may  be  easily  performed  (going  and  returning)  in  a  day. 


190  LAKE    GEORGE. 

CALDWELL,  on  the  south  western  margin  of  the  lake. 
This  village  contains  a  number  of  neat  little  buildings, 
and  about  60  inhabitants.  The  Lake  George  CofFee- 
House,  kept  by  Mr.  Baird,  has  been  fitted  up  in  good 
style,  and  can  accommodate  from  80  to  100  visitants. 
There  are  here,  also,  a  post-office,  a  church,  and  a 
court-house.  The  village  is  bordered  on  the  east  by  a 
range  of  hills,  to  the  highest  of  which,  called  Prospect 
Hill,  a  road  has  been  made,  and  though  difficult  of 
ascent,  the  toil  is  richly  compensated  in  the  diversified 
and  extensive  prospect  afforded  from  its  summit. 

LAKE  GEORGE, 

Is  situated  but  a  short  day's  ride  from  the  village  of 
Saratoga  Springs,  (27  miles,)  from  whence  an  excur 
sion  to  the  Lake  is  considered  as  a  matter  of  course. 
Indeed,  there  are  few  places  where  a  greater  variety  of 
inducements  attract  the  stranger  than  at  Lake  George. 
Besides  the  interest  which  is  excited  from  an  associa 
tion  of  many  important  historic  events,  this  place  is 
rendered  peculiarly  interesting  from  the  unrivalled  ex 
hibition  of  the  beautiful  and  romantic  scenery  present 
ed  by  the  lake  and  its  environs.  At  the  village  of  Cald- 
well  the  lake  is  about  one  mile  in  width,  but  it  general 
ly  varies  from  3-4  of  a  mile  to  4  miles.  The  whole 
length  is  36  miles.  The  waters  are  discharged  into 
Lake  Champlain,  at  Ticonderoga,  by  an  outlet  which, 
in  the  distance  of  2  miles,  falls  180  feet. 

Lake  George  is  remarkable  for  the  transparency  of 
its  waters.  They  are  generally  very  deep,  but  at  an 
ordinary  depth  the  clean  gravelly  bottom  is  distinctly 
visible.  The  great  variety  of  excellent  fish  which  are 
caught  here,  renders  it  a  favorite  resort  for  those  who 


LAKE    GEOUGE.  191 

are  fond  of  angling.  The  salmon  trout  is  caught  in 
abundance,  weighing  from  12  to  20  pounds.  The  lake 
is  interspersed  with  a  great  number  of  small  islands, 
the  principal  of  which,  Diamond  Island,  once  contain 
ing  a  military  fortification,  and  Tea  Island,  on  which  is 
a  summer  house  erected  for  the  amusement  of  parties 
of  pleasure,  are  visible  from  the  head  of  the  lake.  The 
whole  number  of  islands  is  said  to  equal  the  number  of 
days  in  the  year. 

The  scenery  on  the  borders  of  the  lake  is  generally 
mountainous.  With  the  exception  of  some  intervals, 
checkered  with  fruitful  cultivation,  the  land  recedes 
from  the  lake  with  a  gentle  acclivity,  for  a  few  rods, 
and  then,  with  a  bolder  ascent,  to  an  elevation  of  from 
500  to  1 500  feet.  The  best  view  of  the  lake  and  its 
environs  is  had  from  the  southern  extremity,  near  the 
remains  of  old  Fort  George,*  from  whence  the  prospect 
embraces  the  village  of  Caldwell  and  the  numerous  lit 
tle  islands  rising  from  the  calm  bosom  of  the  lake, 
whose  waters  are  beautifully  contrasted  with  the  paral- 
el  ridges  of  craggy  mountains,  through  an  extent  of 
nearly  fourteen  miles.  Near  the  southern  shore  of  the 
lake  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  fortification,  called 

FORT  WILLIAM  HENRY.  Vestiges  of  the  walls  and 
out-works  are  still  to  be  seen.  Previous  to  its  con 
struction,  the  scite  of  the  fort  was  occupied  by  the  En 
glish  army  under  the  command  of  Sir  William  Johnson, 


*  A  very  good  prospect  is  also  obtained  from  the  top 
of  the  Lake  George  House,  to  which  a  flight  of  stairs 
ascends ;  but  one  far  better  from  Prospect  Hill,  pre 
viously  mentioned. 


2  LAKE    GEORGE. 

who  was  making  preparations  tor  an  attack  upon 
Crown  Point.  Before  any  movement  was  made  by 
Sir  William,  the  French  army,  under  the  command  of 
Baron  Dieskau,  marched  from  Ticonderoga  for  Fort 
Edward,  but  afterwards  changing  his  purpose,  he  was 
proceeding  to  the  head  of  the  lake,  when  he  unexpect 
edly  fell  in  with  a  party  of  the  English,  who  had  been 
detached  by  Sir  William  for  the  relief  of  Fort  Edward, 
A  severe  battle  ensued,  in  which  the  English  were  de 
feated,  and  compelled  hastily  to  retire  from  the  field. 
They  were  pursued  into  their  intrenchments  by  the 
French  army,  who  commenced  a  furious  assault  upon 
the  English  camp,  but  were  repulsed  with  great  slaugh 
ter.  The  discomfited  Baron,  on  his  retreat  from  this 
unsuccesful  attack,  was  a  third  time  engaged  by  a  par 
ty  of  English,  who  had  been  despatched  by  the  garrison 
at  Fort  Edward,  to  succour  Sir  William  Johnson,  and 
totally  defeated.  These  three  several  engagements 
took  place  on  the  same  day,  the  6th  September,  1755, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Bloody  Pond,  into  which  the  bodies  of 
the  slain  were  afterwards  thrown.  In  1757,  Fort  Wil 
liam  Henry  contained  a  garrison  of  3,000  men,  under 
the  command  of  Col.  Munroe.  The  Marquis  de  Mont- 
calm,  after  three  attempts  to  besiege  the  fort  in  form, 
reinforced  his  army  to  about  10,000  men,  and  summon 
ed  Col.  Munroe  to  surrender.  This  summons  being 
refused,  Montcalm,  after  a  furious  assault,  obliged  the 
English  to  capitulate.  The  terms  of  the  capitulation, 
though  honorable  to  the  English,  were  shamefully  vio 
lated  by  the  Indians  attached  to  the  French  army,  who 
massacred  the  whole  garrison,  except  a  small  remnant, 
who  made  their  escape  to  Fort  Edward.  The  fort  was 


LAKE  GEORGE.  193 

razed  to  the  ground  by  Montcalm,  and  was  never  after 
wards  rebuilt.  This  spot  was  the  scene  of  embarkation 
of  General  Abercrombie,  who,  in  1758,  descended  the 
lake  with  an  army  of  1 5,000  men,  for  an  attack  on  Ti- 
conderoga.  About  80  rods  farther  south,  on  a  com 
manding  eminence,  are  situated  the  vestiges  of  old 
FORT  GEORGE.  This  fort,  though  not  distinguished  by 
any  event  of  importance,  yet  in  connexion  with  the  his 
tory  of  Lake  George,  imparts  an  interest  which  a  stran 
ger  will  readily  embrace  in  a  visit  to  its  mouldering  ru 
ins.  A  part  of  the  walls,  which  were  originally  built  of 
stone,  are  still  visible,  from  30  to  40  feet  in  height.  This 
fort  was  the  depot  for  the  stores  of  General  Burgoyne, 
for  some  time  during  the  revolutionary  war. 

The  steam-boat  Mountaineer  usually  performs  a  daily 
trip  on  Lake  George  so  as  to  intersect  the  boats  running 
on  Lake  Champlain  ;  leaving  Caldwell  in  the  morning, 
and  returning  at  evening.  The  length  of  the  Lake,  on 
which  1he  boat  runs,  is  36  miles — fare  $2.  From  the 
steam-boat  landing  to  Ticonderoga  is  a  distance  of  3 
miles  ;  for  which  a  conveyance  is  provided,  going  and 
returning,  for  50  cents  each  way.  Refreshments  are 
provided  at  Pierce's  tavern,  half  a  mile  from  the  landing, 
after  which  parties  usually  proceed  to  the  Fort,  and  re 
turn  to  Pierce's  the  same  evening,  from  whence  they 
may  take  the  boat  on  its  return  the  next  day  to  Caldwell. 

The  PASSAGE  OF  LAKE  GEORGE  cannot  fail  to  im 
part  a  gre^-t  degree  of  interest,  even  to  the  most  indif 
ferent  observer.  The  Lake  is  interspersed  with  a  great 
variety  of  islands,  some  of  which  are  very  small,  but  yet 
serve  the  purpose  of  diversifying  the  prospect.  The 
smooth,  green  surface  of  the  water  is  strikingly  con 
trasted  with  the  bold  and  rugged  shores  of  the  Lake, 


194  LAKE    GEORGE. 

which  vary  their  distance  from  3-4  of  a  mile  to  4  miles 
in  width,  and  occasionally  rise  to  1500  feet  in  height. 
These  circumstances,  added  to  the  numerous  histori 
cal  associations  which  are  continually  suggested  to  the 
mind,  and  to  the  animation  which  a  fair  day  and  pros 
perous  passage  are  calculated  to  impart,  serve  to  create 
impressions  which  must  always  be  remembered  with 
peculiar  satisfaction. 

Ten  miles  from  Caldvvell,  down  the  Lake,  are  a  range 
of  mountains  possessed  by  a  celebrated  hunter  of  the 
name  of  Phelps,  as  a  DEER  PASTURE.  In  the  spring, 
when  the  vegitation  of  the  previous  year  is  sufficiently 
dry,  he  sets  fire  to  the  mountains.  Subsequently,  green 
and  tender  herbs  spring  forth,  and  induce  droves  of  deer 
to  resort  thither  in  quest  of  food  ;  by  which  means  the 
hunter  succeeds  in  killing  hundreds  annually.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  lake,  at  a  very  considerable  eleva 
tion,  is  the  residence  of  a  wealthy  farmer  of  Bolton. 
Two  miles  further  is  TWELVE  MILE  ISLAND,  being  that 
distance  from  Caldwell.  It  is  of  a  circular  form,  of 
about  20  acres,  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  lake,  and 
is  elevated  30  or  40  feet  above  the  water.  From  thence 
one  mile,  on  the  north  west  side  of  the  lake,  is 

TONGUE  MOUNTAIN,  \vith  WEST  BAY  on  its  west  side, 
1  1-2  mile  wide,  and  extending  in  a  northerly  direction 
6  miles.  What  is  called  the  Narrows  commences  here, 
and  continues  for  6  or  7  miles,  being  3-4  of  a  mile 
wide  and  very  deep.  A  line  500  feet  long  has  been 
used  in  sounding,  without  reaching  bottom. 

BLACK  MOUNTAIN,  18  miles  from  the  head  of  the 
Lake,  is  situated  on  the  east  side,  and  has  been  ascer 
tained,  by  admeasurement,  to  be  2200  feet  in  height. 
Opposite  to  Black  Mountain,  near  the  western  shore,  is 


LAKE  GEORGE.  195 

HALF  WAY  ISLAND.  A  short  distance  north  of  this 
is  some  of  the  finest  mouutain  scenery  on  the  conti 
nent.  The  mountains  exhibit  an  undulating  appear 
ance,  are  thickly  studded  with  pines  and  furs,  and  in 
terspersed  with  deep  and  almost  impenetrable  caverns. 
SABBATH-DAY  POINT,  24  miles  from  Caldwell,  is  a  pro 
jection  of  the  main  land  into  the  Lake  from  the  west 
side.  It  is  the  place  on  which  the  English  troops  lan 
ded  on  the  sabbath  during  the  French  war,  and  is  the 
spot  on  which  a  sanguinary  battle  was  fought  with  the 
Indians.  The  English,  with  no  chance  of  retreat,  were 
all  killed.  From  thence,  3  miles,  is  a  small  island  call 
ed  the  SCOTCH  BONNET.  Three  miles  further  on  the 
west  shore  of  the  lake,  is  a  little  hamlet  called  by  the 
inhabitants  the  city  of  Hague,  containing  only  two  or 
three  dwellings,  and  as  many  saw  mills.  The  lake  is 
here  4  miles  wide,  being  its  greatest  width.  From  this 
place  to 

ROGER'S  SLIDE  is  3  miles.  This  is  celebrated  as 
the  spot  where  Col.  Rogers  escaped  from  the  Indians 
during  the  French  war.  The  descent  is  an  angle  of 
about  25  degrees,  over  a  tolerably  smooth  rock,  200 
feet  in  height.  The  Col.  who  had  been  a  great  foe  to 
the  Indians,  was  nearly  surrounded  by  them  on  the  top 
of  the  mountain,  and  found  no  other  means  of  escape 
than  to  slide  down  this  precipice.  It  being  winter,  and 
having  snow  shoes  on  his  feet,  he  landed  safely  on  the 
ice.  The  Indians  afterwards  saw  him  ;  but  supposing 
that  no  human  being  could  have  made  the  descent,  and 
that  he  must,  of  course,  be  supernatural,  they  concluded 
it  not  only  useless,  but  dangerous  to  follow  him. 

ANTHONY'S  NOSE,  so  called  from  its  singular  shape,  is 
a  high  rock,  nearly  opposite  to  Roger's  Slide.  The  shores 


196  TICONDEROGA. 

here  are  bold  and  contracted,  and  exhibit  massive  rocks, 
which  are  from  50  to  1 00  feet  in  height.  From  thence  to 
PRISONER'S  ISLAND,  is  two  miles,  a  spot  where  pris 
oners  were  confined  during  the  French  war ;  and  di 
rectly  west  of  this  is  LORD  HOWE'S  POINT,  so  called 
from  being  the  place  where  Lord  Howe  landed  imme 
diately  previous  to  the  battle  in  which  he  was  killed  at 
Ticonderoga.  He  was  a  brother  of  the  late  Lord  Howe, 
who  commanded  the  British  forces  at  Philadelphia  du 
ring  the  revolutionary  war.  The  water  here,  from  a 
deep  green,  assumes  a  lighter  color,  owing  to  a  clayey 
bottom.  From  thence  to  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  which 
terminates  the  steam-boat  passage,  is  one  mile.  Three 
miles  further,  over  a  circuitous  and  uneven  road,  in  an 
easterly  direction,  are  the  fort  and  ruins  of 

TICONDEROGA.  The  point  projects  between  the  lake 
on  one  side,  which  here  suddenly  expands  to  the  west, 
and  the  creek  on  the  other,  which  unites  the  waters  of 
lake  George  and  Champlain,  and  forms  its  southern 
boundary.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  in  a  south 
east  direction,  stands  Mount  Independence.  Mount  De 
fiance,  720  feet  in  height,  is  situated  across  the  creek 
directly  west  of  the  Fort.  This  height  was  occupied  by 
the  artillery  of  General  Burgoyne  in  1777,  when  the 
Americans  were  compelled  to  evacuate  Ticonderoga. 
The  fortress  of  Ticonderoga  was  first  constructed  by 
the  French  in  1756.  The  works  appear  to  have  been 
very  strong,  are  elevated  about  200  feet  above  the  lev 
el  of  lake  Champlain,  and  many  of  the  walls  are  still 
atanding.  The  Magazine  is  nearly  entire.  It  is  35  feet 
long,  15  feet  wide,  and  8  feet  high,  constructed  under 


TICONDEROGA.  J  97 

ground,  of  stone,  and  arched.  A  subterraneous  pas 
sage  leads  from  the  southwest  corner  of  the  works  to 
the  lake,  20  or  30  rods  in  length.  Through  this  pas 
sage  Col.  Ethan  Allen  passed  when  he  took  possession 
of  the  fort  "  in  the  name,  of  the  Great  Jehovah,  and  the 
Continental  Congress."  The  remains  of  another  fortifi 
cation,  built  during  the  revolutionary  war,  are  still  to 
be  seen  about  60  rods  farther  south  on  the  point  adjoin 
ing  the  lake.  The  walls  next  the  lake  are  nearly  60 
feet  in  height. 

In  1758  Ticonderoga  was  attacked  by  general  Aber- 
crombie,  who  was  repulsed  writh  the  loss  of  2000  men. 
On  the  approach  of  Gen.  Amherst,  in  1759,  it  was  qui 
etly  abandoned  by  the  French,  as  was  also  Crown  Point, 
It  continued  in  possession  of  the  British  until  the  year 
1775,  when  it  was  taken  by  Col.  Allen.  On  evacuating 
the  fort  in  1777,  Gen.  St.  Clair  ordered  a  detachment 
to  accompany  the  American  stores  and  baggage  to 
Skeensborough,  where  they  were  pursued  by  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne  and  from  thence  to  Fort  Ann.  At  the  latter 
place  a  smart  skirmish  ensued  between  the  two  parties, 
in  which  the  British  sustained  a  considerable  loss.  The 
main  army  retired  from  Ticonderoga  to  Hubbardton, 
where  a  party  consisting  of  about  1000,  under  Col. 
Warner,  were  overtaken  by  the  British  advanced  guard, 
and  alter  a  severe  action  abandoned  the  field  to  supe 
rior  numbers.  From  thence  they  joined  General  Schuy- 
ler  at  Fort-Edward  on  the  12th  July,  1777. 

From  Ticonderoga,  travellers  may  be  conveyed  across 
the  lake  to  Larrabee's,  in  Shoreham,  Vermont,  a  dis 
tance  of  one  mile,  where  those  designing  a  tour  to 
Montreal  and  Quebec,  may  take  passage  in  the  Cham- 


198  EXCURSION   TO   THE   WEST. 

plain  steam-boat,  for  St.  John's.  The  boat  arrives  at 
Larrabee's  towards  evening,  and  the  passage  from 
thence  to  Plattsburgh,  with  the  exception  of  about  15 
miles  to  Crown  Point,  is  generally  in  the  night.  At 
present  the  most  usual  arrangements  of  the  tourist  are, 
after  visiting  Lake  George  and  Ticonderoga,  to  return 
to  the  Springs,  from  thence  to  take  passage  in  the  reg 
ular  stage  to  Utica,  by  way  of  Johnstown  ;  or  proceed 
to  Schenectady,  where  a  post  coach  or  .packet  boat  can 
be  taken  daily  for  Niagara. 

EXCURSION  TO  THE  WEST. 

Travellers  who  design  to  visit  Niagara  and  return, 
without  proceeding  down  Lake  Ontario  to  Montreal, 
will  find  an  excursion  the  most  pleasant  and  diversified 
by  travelling  in  stages  and  canal  boats  alternately.  The 
stage  route  affords  a  better  prospect  of  the  populous 
parts  of  the  country  ;  but  is  generally  so  far  from  the 
canal,  that  no  opportunity  is  given  of  witnessing  many 
of  the  thriving  villages  on  its  banks.  It  is  therefore  ad 
visable  so  to  arrange  a  tour  that  the  most  interesting 
parts  of  both  routes  may  be  seen  in  going  and  return 
ing.  To  effect  this,  a  packet  boat  may  be  taken  at 
Schenectady  at  evening,  which  will  pass  Little  Falls 
the  next  morning,  affording  the  tourist  an  interesting 
view  of  the  scenery  and  aqueduct  at  that  place,  and 
reach  Utica  in  the  afternoon.  The  next  morning  a 
stage  can  be  taken  for  Rochester,  via  Auburn,  reach 
ing  the  former  place  at  evening  of  the  second  day ;  from 
whence  a  packet  boat  leaves  every  morning,  reaching 
Lockport  at  daylight  the  next  morning.  Here  a  stage 
may  be  taken  for  the  Falls,  20  miles  distant,  or  the  pas- 


STAGE    ROUTE    TO    THE    WEST.  19 

eage,  by  canal,  continued  to  Buffalo.  But  a  better 
method,  undoubtedly,  if  the  fatigue  of  land  travelling 
should  not  prevent,  is,  to  continue  on  the  stage  route 
from  Utica  direct  to  Buffalo,  by  way  of  Auburn,  Gene 
va,  Canandaigua  and  Batavia ;  and  return  by  canal  from 
Lockport  to  Utica,  stopping  at  least  a  day  at  each  of 
the  thriving  villages  of  Rochester  and  Syracuse ;  where 
objects  of  sufficient  attraction  will  be  found  to  warrant 
even  a  protracted  visit. 

Heretofore,  the  months  of  July  and  August  have  been 
selected  for  an  excursion  to  the  west ;  but  experience 
has  abundantly  proved,  that  the  early  part  of  Septem 
ber  is  far  preferable.  The  heat  of  summer  having  then 
in  a  measure  subsided,  the  air  is  more  salubrious,  and 
the  pleasure  of  a  journey  less  interrupted  by  dust,  per 
plexity  and  fatigue.  Added  to  this,  it  is  the  season  of 
peaches ;  of  which  a  great  abundance  of  the  most  de 
licious  are  to  be  found  between  Canandaigua  and  Buf 
falo. 

That  tourists  may  be  the  better  enabled  to  gratify  their 
taste  as  to  the  mode  of  travelling,  we  subjoin  a  sketch 
of  the  stage  and  canal  routes,  disconnected,  premising, 
that  a  change  from  one  to  the  other  may  be  easily  ef 
fected  at  various  points. 

THE  STAGE  ROUTE. 

From  Saratoga  Springs,  a  stage  leaves  every  morn 
ing  at  8  o'clock,  passing  through  Ballston  Spa,  Galway, 
Johnstown,  and  Little  Falls  to  Utica,  where  it  arrives 
at  10  P.  M.  Distance,  88  miles—fare  $3.  The  inter 
mediate  distances  are  as  follows  : 


200          STAGE  &OUTE  TO  t'TICA — JOHNSTOWN. 


Jftfeff. 

Ballstou  Spa, 7 

Galway, 8 

Stimson'B  Farm,  ...  1 

Fonda's  Bush, 9 

Johnstown, 10 


Mile*. 

Fort  Plain, 3 

Eaet  Canada  Creek,  4 

Little  Falls 7 

Hcrkimer, 8 

Frankfort, 6 

Utica, 9 


Caughnawaga,  ....     4 
Palatine, 12 

After  passing  Ballston  Spa,  the  first  object  of  attrac 
tion  is  the  FARM  of  Maj.  EARL  STIMSON,  in  Gal  way,  16 
miles  from  Saratoga  Springs.  It  is  beautifully  located 
on  an  eminence,  commanding  a  very  handsome  pros 
pect  ;  and,  under  the  successful  tillage  of  its  opulent 
and  hospitable  proprietor,  is  one  of  the  most  favored 
tracts  of  land  in  the  state.  It  is  generally  laid  out  in 
to  lots  of  10  arces  each ;  all  of  which  appear  in  the 
highest  state  of  cultivation.  To  Maj.  S.  the  fanners  in 
the  county,  and  particularly  in  his  own  town,  are  much 
indebted  for  many  improvements  suggested  and  adopt 
ed  by  him  in  agriculture. 

FONDA'S  BUSH,  a  small  manufacturing  village,  is  10 
miles  from  Gal  way ;  and  10  miles  farther  is  the  village  of 

JOHNSTOWN,  celebrated  as  the  former  residence  of 
Sir  William  Johnson.  The  village  contains  between 
2  and  300  buildings,  a  court  house,  jail,  3  churches,  an 
academy,  and  2  printing  offices.  It  is  situated  on  a 
handsome  plain,  with  streets  running  at  right  angles  j 
and  though  many  of  the  buildings  are  antiquated,  yet 
there  are  several  handsome  private  residences.  The 
court-house,  jail  and  Episcopal  church  were  built  by 
Sir  William;  beneath  the  latter  of  which  his  remains 
now  repose.  In  opening  the  vault  a  few  years  since,  it 
was  found  to  contain  so  much  water  that  the  coffin 


STAGE  ROUTE — FORT  PLAIN.        201 

was  actually  floating  on  its  surface.  The  lid,  composed 
of  mahogany,  was  taken  off,  and  still  remains  inside  of 
the  church.  It  bears  this  inscription,  formed  with  brass 
nails  :  "  Sir  Wm  Johnson  Bt  Obiit  1774."  The  house, 
or  what  is  called  the  "  Hall,"  formerly  occupied  by  Sir 
W.  is  about  a  mile  from  the  village.  Attached  to  it  is 
a  building  which  was  used  by  him  as  a  fort ;  into  which 
he  had  occasion,  at  times,  to  retreat  from  the  assaults 
of  the  Indians.  The  marks  of  tomahawks  are  still  vis 
ible  on  the  stair-case  in  the  main  building. 

The  battle  of  Johnstown,  October,  1781,  in  which 
the  British  and  Indians  were  defeated,  was  fought  on 
the  "  Hall"  farm.  The  American  troops,  consisting  of 
between  4  and  500,  were  commanded  by  the  venerable 
Col.  Willet,  who  lately  died  at  New- York.  After  the  de 
feat,  the  enemy  were  pursued  by  him  to  the  Canada 
creek,  where  several  were  killed,  including  Maj.  Butler. 
Out  of  607  of  the  hostile  force  sent  on  this  expedition, 
but  220  returned  to  Canada. 

CAUGHNAWAGA  is  4  miles  from  Johnstown,  on  the 
turnpike  leading  from  Schenectady  to  Utica.  It  has 
little  to  render  it  a  place  of  interest,  if  we  except  an  an 
tiquated  stone  church,  which  has  been  built  between 
60  and  70  years,  without  having  undergone  any  mate 
rial  improvement  or  change  during  that  period. 

Twelve  miles  farther,  the  stage  stops  at  PALATINE  ; 
affording  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the  village  of  CANAJO- 
HARIE,  situated  on  the  plain  below,  and  on  the  banks 
of  the  canal. 

FORT  PLAIN,  a  flourishing  little  village,  is  3  miles 
west  of  Palatine.  A  fort,  from  which  the  place  derives 


202  STAGE    ROUTE — LITTLE    FALLS. 

its  name,  was  constructed  here  during  the  revolution 
ary  war;  though  but  little  of  its  remains  are  now  to  be 
seen.  The  place  was  originally  settled  by  Germans, 
who  suffered  severely  from  the  early  Indian  wars  of 
this  country.  During  the  revolution,  those  who  had 
taken  refuge  in  the  fort,  were  surprised  by  Capt.  But 
ler,  on  his  return  from  burning  Cherry  Valley,  and  be 
came  a  prey  to  similar  atrocities. 

The  EAST  CANADA  CREEK  is  passed  by  a  substantial 
bridge,  in  going  4  miles  farther  ;  from  which  to 

LITTLE  FALLS,  is  7  miles.  This  place  takes  its  name 
from  a  cataract  in  the  vicinity,  which,  in  size,  is  much 
inferior  to  the  celebrated  Cahoes,  and  has,  therefore, 
been  denominated  the  Little  Falls  of  the  Mohawk.  A 
continuation  of  the  chain  of  Catsbergs  crosses  the  riv 
er  at  this  place,  and  forms  a  rough  bed  for  the  waters 
of  the  cataract,  which  pour  over  the  rocky  fragments 
in  the  wildest  confusion.  Approaching  from  the  south 
east,  a  lofty  ridge  of  mountains,  frowning  in  grandeur 
on  either  side,  conceals  the  course  of  the  river  and  the 
falls,  whose  vicinity  is  announced  only  by  the  distant 
din  and  foam  of  its  waters.  For  a  considerable  dis 
tance,  a  narrow  pass  only  is  allowed  for  a  road,  with 
immense  natural  battlements  of  rock  on  either  side,  af 
fording  a  sublime  and  most  interesting  spectacle.  About 
1-2  a  mile  from  the  village  the  road  turns  suddenly  to 
the  left,  presenting  a  view  of  the  falls  tumbling  with 
irresistible  violence  over  a  gradual  rocky  descent  of 
about  80  rods.  At  the  termination  of  the  ascent  is  sit 
uated  the  village,  containing  about  100  houses  and  800 
inhabitants.  A  little  cluster  of  buildings,  rising  be- 


STAGE  ROUTE LITTLE  FALLS.        ;K>4 

tween  the  rushing  waters  of  the  Mohawk  on  the  onu 
hand,  and  the  rugged  cliffs  and  eminences  on  the  oth 
er  ;  the  smooth  current  of  the  stream  above  gently 
gliding  to  the  tumultuous  scene  below,  and  beyond  the 
distant  vale  of  the  Mohawk  diversified  with  fields, 
orchards,  meadows,  and  farm  houses,  all  contribute  to 
set  off  the  romantic  appearance  for  which  this  place  is 
so  justly  celebrated.  This  village  derives  most  of  its 
importance  from  the  facilities  for  trade  and  commerce 
afforded  by  means  of  the  Mohawk  river  and  the  Eric 
canal.  Boats  were  formerly  transported  around  the 
falls  by  means  of  a  canal  on  the  north  side  of  the  river. 
This  old  canal  contains  8  locks  and  is  now  connected 
with  the  Erie  canal  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  by 
means  of  an  aqueduct  184  feet  in  length.  The  descent 
of  the  Erie  canal  here,  in  the  distance  of  one  mile,  is 
40  feet,  which  is  passed  by  5  locks. 

Travellers  will  always  find  it  interesting  to  spend 
some  time  at  this  place,  in  viewing  its  great  natural 
and  artificial  works.  The  Aqueduct  across  the  river  is 
one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  masonry  on  the  whole 
line  of  the  canal,  though  less  stupendous  than  the  locks 
at  Lockport,  and,  in  extent,  falling  considerably  short 
of  the  aqueduct  at  Rochester.  The  river  is  passed  on 
three  beautiful  arches  of  from  40  to  50  feet  in  height, 
with  flagging  on  either  side  of  the  canal,  and  a  strong 
iron  railing.  After  crossing  on  the  flagging,  the  strang 
er  should  return  on  the  wooden  bridge  west  of  the 
aqueduct;  which  being  several  feet  lower,  affords  a 
fine  view  of  the  arches,  and  of  the  extensive  basin  in 
the  river,  immediately  beneath  the  centre  arch ;  form- 


204  STAGE  ROUTE — LITTLE    FALLS. 

rd,  doubtless,  by  the  action  of  round  stones  set  in  mo 
tion  by  the  water. 

The  Erie  canal,  which  is  on  the  south  side  of  the 
river,  winds  its  way  for  some  distance  along  the  side  of 
a  bold  and  lofty  mountain,  the  channel  resting  on  a 
wall  nearly  30  feet  high,  constructed  from  the  bed  of 
the  river  at  great  expense.  The  view  afforded  from  a 
packet  boat  of  mountain  scenery  on  either  side,  with  a 
bare  passage  for  the  dashing  waters  of  the  Mohawk 
between,  *s  highly  interesting  and  sublime.  Whichev 
er  way  the  eye  is  turned,  it  rests  on  huge  masses  of 
granite  and  limestone,  piled  in  heaps.  These  rocks  in 
some  places  rise  to  a  great  height,  almost  perpendicu 
lar,  presenting  a  bleak  black  surface,  unbleached  by  the 
thousand  storms  which  have  beat  upon  them  ;  others 
present  a  ragged  and  uneven  fare,  crowned  and  over 
hung  by  dark  evergreens,  dropping  their  verdure  into 
the  foaming  torrent  below  ;  the  fissures  between  others 
of  these  huge  piles  produce  hickory,  maple  and  other 
trees,  which  hang  from  them,  and  with  their  sombre 
shadow  deepen  the  gloomy  darkness  of  the  rocks  from 
which  they  spring  ;  whilst  the  scanty  soil  upon  others 
gives  life  and  penurious  nourishment  to  dwarf  oaks  and 
vegetation  peculiar  to  similar  inhospitable  regions.  In 
this  scene,  where  the  rude  but  magnificent  works  of 
nature  are  so  profusely  displayed,  the  imagination  is 
overpowered,  in  their  sublimity,  and  the  proudest 
works  of  man,  and  man  himself  l~se  their  importance. 
Even  the  canal,  cut  upon  the  mighty  and  enduring  pre 
cipice — the  road  entrenched  upon  the  mountain  side, 
and  the  substantial  locks  and  gates,  all  sink  into  com- 
parctivr  insignificance  under  the*  mighty  shadows  of 
the  everlasting  hills. 


STAGE  ROUTE — HERKJMER.  505 

Crystals  of  quarts,  the  most  translucent,  it  is  believ 
ed,  of  any  heretofore  discovered  in  the  state,  are  found 
in.  considerable  quantities  a  short  distance  from  the 
village.* 

The  road,  after  leaving  Little  Falls,  follows  the  bank 
of  the  river,  in  full  view  of  the  rich  alluvial  vale  called 
the  Herkimer  and  German  Flats.  This  region,  now 
glowing  in  all  the  beauty  of  successful  cultivation,  was 
once  the  theatre  of  the  most  sanguinary  warfare.  Du 
ring  the  French  and  revolutionary  wars,  it  was  tho 
scene  of  many  barbarous  incursions  of  the  whites  as 
well  as  savages.  It  was  invaded  by  the  French  after 
the  capture  of  Fort  Oswego  in  1756,  and  in  1757  the 
settlements  were  desolated  by  fire  and  sword.  In  the 
center  of  these  flats  is  situated  the  village  of 

HERKIMER,  8  miles  from  Little  Falls.  This  village, 
as  well  as  that  of  Little  Falls,  forms  a  part  of  the  town 
of  Herkimer,  which  extends  along  the  banks  of  the 
Mohawk  about  15  miles.  West  Canada  Creek  enters 
the  river  about  half  a  mile  east  of  the  village,  and  is 
passed  near  its  mouth  by  a  well  constructed  bridge. 
The  village  is  principally  built  on  two  parallel  streets. 
It  contains  ahout  100  houses,  and  not  less  than  800  in 
habitants.  Every  appearance  indicates  a  thriving  and 
prosperous  village.  Between  Herkimer  and  Utica  is 

*  About  10  miles  SE.  of  tins  place,  on  the  ravine  of 
a  small  stream,  which  empties  into  the  Osquake  creek, 
are  some  of  the  most  interesting  specimens  of  petrifac 
tions  ever  discovered  in  the  country.  They  consist  of 
a  mass  from  20  to  25  feet  long,  and  from  3  to  5  feet  in 
diameter,  composed  partly  of  petrifactions  and  partly 


206  UTICA. 

the  small  but  thriving  village  of  FRANKFORT,  about  6 
miles  from  the  former  and  9  from  the  latter  place. 
The  country  after  leaving  Herkimer  is  quite  level,  and 
remarkably  fertile,  though  not  in  a  high  state  of  culti 
vation. 

UTICA. 

This  flourishing  village  stands  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  Mohawk  river,  94  miles  westwardly  of  Albany.  It 
occupies  the  scite  of  old  Fort  Schuyler,  where]  a  gar 
rison  was  kept  previous  to  the  revolution.  Some  re 
mains  of  this  fort  arc  still  to  be  seen  between  the  east 
ern  extremity  of  Main  street  and  the  river,  A  few  Ger 
mans  were  settled  here  previous  to  the  revolutionary 
war ;  but  a  part  wero  captured  by  the  Indians  and  the 

of  incrustations.  The  lower  part  exhibits  the  trunk  of 
a  hemlock  tree,  2  feet  in  diameter,  while  the  other  parts 
seem  to  have  been  formed  of  fragments  of  the  same 
kind  of  tree.  The  transition  from  wood  to  tufa  has 
been  effected  with  so  much  precision,  that  the  whole 
ligneous  structure  of  the  wood,  its  concentric  layers, 
coatings  or  rings,  gum,  knots,  &c.  are  most  perfectly 
preserved.  From  some  unknown  cause,  the  waters 
which  issued  out  of  the  declivity  above  the  mass  have 
failed  or  been  diverted,  so  that  petrifaction  has  ceased 
at  this  spot.  But  in  other  parts  of  the  declivity  from 
which  waters  issue,  they  are  so  highly  impregnated 
with  calcareous  and  other  matters  as  to  incrust  pieces 
of  wood  coming  within  their  reach.  Not  far  from  this 
place,  the  road  has  been  cut  through  a  tufa  rock  of  very 
large  dimensions  ;  on  the  sides  of  which  are  seen  pe 
trified  pieces  of  wood  imbedded  within  the  mass. 
Whenever  time  will  permit,  mineralogists  will  find  it 
interesting  to  stop  a  day  at  Herkimer,  for  the  purpose 
•  M'ir-itinii  the??  oxtraordinarv  formations. 


UTICA.  207 

remnant  sought  a  place  of  more  security.  The  first 
permanent  settler  established  himself  about  4  miles  west 
of  Fort  Schuyler  in  1784.  Five  years  afterwards  a  few 
families  established  themselves  on  the  scite  of  the 
present  village,  and  in  1798  a  village  charter  was  gran 
ted  to  the  place  ;  since  which  it  has  rapidly  increased 
in  population.  In  1813,  it  contained  1700  inhabitants  ; 
in  1816,  2828  ;  in  1820,2972  ;  in  1823,  4017  ;  in  1826, 
6040  ;  in  1828,  7460  ;  and  in  1829,  9081.  The  village  is 
regularly  laid  out,  the  streets  of  good  width,  and  most 
ly  paved.  Genesee  street,  in  particular,  is  peculiarly 
pleasant,  and  for  the  most  part  adorned  with  elegant 
stores  and  dwellings. 

There  are  numerous  literary,  benevolent  and  reli 
gious  institutions  in  this  place.  Among  these  the  Onei- 
da  Institute  of  Science  and  Industry  is  perhaps  most 
worthy  of  remark,  from  its  uniting  manual  with  men 
tal  labor  on  the  part  of  the  students.  There  is  a  farm 
attached  to  it  comprising  one  hundred  and  fourteen 
acres,  upon  which  each  student  labors  from  three  to 
four  hours  per  day,  and  it  is  said  that  the  experiment 
of  two  years  proves  that  labor  from  3  to  5  hours  per  day 
pays  the  board  of  the  student  in  this  plentiful  region. 
It  is  principally  intended  for  the  education  of  those  de 
signed  for  the  ministry,  but  its  privileges  are  common 
to  all  youth  of  unexceptionable  character.  There  are 
also  a  classical  academy,  a  library,  lyceum,  and  9 
churches,  some  of  which  are  very  elegant. 

Of  the  public  houses,  Bagg's  Tavern  (see  plate)  by 
Messrs.  Bagg  and  Churchill,  is  pleasantly  located  op 
posite  a  wide  area  formed  by  the  junction  of  Gene.see, 
Main,  John  and  Whitesboro7  streets,  near  the  river? 


208  UTICA. 

and  but  a  short  distance  from  the  canal.  It  is  a  large 
establishment,  well  furnished  and  well  kept,  and  may 
be  justly  ranked  among  the  best  public  houses  in  the 
Union.  The  Mansion  House,  by  Mr.  Sanger ;  the  Ca 
nal  Coffee-Hause,  by  Mr.  Wells  ;  the  U.  S.  Hotel,  by  Mr. 
Shepherd ;  the  Oneida  House,  and  Clinton  House,  are 
also  highly  respectable  and  commodious  establish 
ments,  enjoying  an  extensive  patronage. 

The  lands  adjoining  Utica  are  richly  cultivated,  pre 
senting  a  succession  of  beautiful  farms  and  country 
seats.  There  are  also  various  objects  of  attraction  in 
the  vicinity,  a  visit  to  which  may  be  ranked  among 
the  pleasures  of  an  excursion  to  the  west.  Of  these 
are  Trenton  Falls,  at  the  north  ;  and  Whitesborough, 
the  York  Mills,  Clinton  Village  containing  Hamilton 
College,  and  Rome,  all  within  a  few  miles  in  a  westerly 
direction. 

From  what  is  called  the  summit,  an  elevated  spot 
near  the  village,  a  charming  prospect  may  be  had  of 
the  adjacent  country,  and  particularly  of  the  vale  of 
the  Mohawk  for  several  miles  in  extent,  including  the 
beautiful  and  diversified  farms  which  rise  in  a  gentle 
acclivity  from  the  river. 

Two  daily  lines  of  packets  run  between  Utica  and 
Schenectady.  The  morning  line  leaves  Utica  at  8  A.  M. 
on  the  arrival  of  the  western  boats,  and  the  evening 
line  at  8  P.  M.  The  boats  are  24  hours  in  passing 
from  one  place  to  the  other.  A  daily  line  also  runs 
between  Utica  and  Buffalo,  leaving  Utica  at  8  P.  M. 
on  the  arrival  of  the  eastern  boats,  and  reaches  Buffalo 
in  3  days. 


STAGES  TO  THE  WEST.  209 

STAGES. 

The  DILIGENCE  MAIL  COACH,  which  travels  by  day 
light  only,  leaves  Utica,  daily,  at  5  A.  M.  and  arrives  at 
Auburn  tho  first  day,  Rochester  and  Avon  the  second, 
and  Lewiston  and  Buffalo  the  third* 

The  PILOT  COACH  leaves  Utica,  daily,  on  the  arrival 
of  the  Schenectady  packets  in  the  evening,  and  reach 
es  Buffalo  via  Batavia,  and  Lewiston  via  Rochester,  in 
2  days. 

The  EAGLE  COACH  leaves  Utica  every  day,  immedi 
ately  after  the  arrival  of  the  2  o'clock  P.  M.  packet  from 
Schenectady,  and  arrives  at  Canandaigua  the  following 
afternoon;  at  which  place  passengers  may  take  the 
Pilot  Coach  for  Buffalo  via  Batavia  at  9  P.  M.  and  for 
Rochester  at  9  P.  M.  and  8  A.  M.  the  next  morning. 

The  UNION  LINE  leaves  Utica  every  day  at  10  P.  M, 
for  Canandaigua,  through  in  one  day. 

The  PIONEER  LINE  also  runs  daily,  Sundays  except- 
ed.  The  stage  fare  from  Utica  to  Canandaigua,  111 
miles,  is  $3,50 ;  from  Utica  to  Rochester,  142  miles, 
from  $4  to  $4,50  ;  and  from  Utica  to  Buffalo,  200  miles, 
$6,50.  The  intermediate  distances  are  as  follows : 


Miles. 

New-Hartford, 4 

Manchester, 5 

Vernon, 8 

Oneida  Castle, 5 

Lenox, 3 

Quality  Hill, 3 

Chitteningo, 5 

Manlius, 8 

Jamesviile, 6 

Onondaga  Hollow, . .  4 


Mies. 

Marcellus, 8 

Skaneateles, 6 

Auburn, 7 

Cayuga, 8 

Seneca  Falls, 4 

Waterloo, 4 

Geneva, 7 

Canandaigua, 16 

EastBloomfield,...  9 

West  Bloomfield, . .  5 


Onondaga  Hill, 3     |  Lima, 4 


210  TRENTOIf  FALLS. 


Miles. 
East  Avon,  . . . . . . . .     6 

Avon  P.  Office, 2 

Caledonia, 8 

Leroy, 6 


jffifct. 

Pembroke, 14 

Clarence, .....,,..     8 

Williamsville, 8 

Buffalo, 10 


Batavia, 10 

During  the  warm  season,  stages  also  leave  several 
times  a  day  (fare  $1  going  and  returning)  for 

TRENTON  FALLS,  14  miles  north  of  Utica.  A  de 
scription  of  these  falls  has  been  obligingly  furnished  to 
the  editor  of  this  work  by  JAMES  MACAULET,  Esq.,  au 
thor  of  a  History  of  the  State  of  New- York,  (a  work  of 
much  merit,  recently  published)  from  which  we  make 
the  following  extracts : 

"  These  renowned  Falls  are  on  West  Canada  creek, 
between  22  and  24  miles  above  its  confluence  with  the 
Mohawk.  The  West  Canada  creek  is  a  powerful 
stream,  and  constitutes  almost  one  half  of  the  river  at 
the  coalescence.  They  commence  a  little  above  the 
high  bridge  on  the  Black  river  road,  and  terminate  at 
Conrad's  mills,  occupying  an  extent  of  rather  over  2 
miles.  They  are  6  in  number. 

"  The  West  Canada  creek  in  its  way  from  the  sum 
mit  of  the  highlands  of  Black  river  to  its  lower  valley, 
lying  between  the  latter  and  Hassenclever  mountain, 
crosses  a  ridge  of  limestone  4  or  5  miles  in  breadth, 
stretching  through  the  country  from  the  Mohawk  to 
the  St.  Lawrence.  Its  course  over  this  ridge  by  its  tor- 
tous  bed  is  6  or  7  miles,  2  1-2  of  which  are  above  the 
falls.  The  waters  of  the  creek,  soon  after  they  have 
reached  the  limestone,  move  with  accelerated  strides 
over  the  naked  rocks  to  the  head  of  the  upper  fall, 
where  they  are  precitated  18  or  20  feet  down  an  ab- 


TRENTON  FALLS.  211 

rupt  ledge  into  a  spacious  basin.  The  whole  descent 
to  the  head  of  this  fall  in  the  last  2  miles  is  computed 
at  60  feet.  Here  a  deep  and  winding  ravine  begins, 
which  extends  down  the  stream  more  than  2  miles. 
Its  average  depth  is  estimated  at  100  feet,  and  its  aver 
age  breadth  at  the  top,  200.  The  sides  and  bottom 
consist  of  limestone  disposed  in  horizontal  layers,  vary 
ing  in  thickness  from  some  inches  to  a  foot  and  up 
wards,  and  abound  with  organic  remains.  The  sides 
of  the  ravine  are  shelving,  perpendicular  and  overhang 
ing  ;  and  some  of  the  trees  that  have  taken"root  in  the 
fissures  of  the  rocks  are  now  pendant  over  the  abyss, 
where  they  form  the  most  fanciful  appearances  imag 
inable.  The  country  along,  and  neighboring  the  ravine, 
descends  to  the  south  and  is  mostly  covered  with  woods 
which  exclude  every  appearance  till  you  arrive  upon 
the  very  verge.  There  are  6  falls  j  that  above  the  high 
bridge  on  Black  river  road,  called  the  Upper,  and  that 
at  the  end  of  the  ravine,  Conrad's  Fall.  The  first  in 
the  ravine  is  a  mile  below  the  high  bridge,  and  is  de 
nominated  the  Cascades;  the  second,  a  little  lower 
down,  is  called  the  Mill-dam ;  the  third,  by  way  of  em 
inence,  are  called  the  High  Falls,  and  are  40  rods  be 
low  the  preceding  ;  the  fourth  is  nearly  70  rods  below 
the  High  Falls,  and  is  called  Sherman's.  All  these  are 
formed  by  solid  reefs  of  rocks  which  cross  the  bed  of 
the  stream. 

"  The  water  at  the  Upper  Fall  descends  18  or  20  feet 
perpendicularly.  Below,  there  is  a  capacious  basin, 
out  of  which  the  stream  issues  in  a  diminished  bed  in 
to  the  ravine,  the  entrance  of  which  is  between  lofty 
barriers  of  rocks.  This  fall,  when  viewed  from  the 


212  THEM  TOW  FALLS. 

bridge,  or  from  the  high  ground  west  of  the  creek,  has 
a  fine  appearance. 

"  At  the  Cascades,  consisting  of  2  pitches,  with  in 
tervening  rapids,  the  water  falls  18  feet.  The  bed  of 
the  stream  is  here  contracted,  and  the  sides  serrated, 
the  banks  of  the  ravine  rising  with  abruptness  almost 
directly  in  the  rear. 

"  The  Mill-dam  Fall,  which  is  the  second  within  the 
ravine,  has  an  abrupt  descent  of  14  feet,  the  stream 
being  about  60  yards  broad  at  the  break. 

"  The  High  Falls  are  40  rods  below  the  latter,  and 
consist  of  3  distinct  falls,  with  intervening  slopes  and 
some  small  pitches.  The  first  has  a  perpendicular  de 
scent  of  48  feet ;  in  floods  and  rises  the  water  covers 
the  whole  break  and  descends  in  one  sheet ;  but  at 
other  times,  mostly  in  two  grooves  at  the  west  side  of 
the  fall.  The  second  has  a  descent  of  about  1 1  feet ; 
the  third  37  feet ;  and  the  three,  including  the  slopes 
and  pitches,  109  feet.  In  freshets  and  floods,  the  en 
tire  bed  at  the  High  Falls  is  covered  with  water  of  a 
milk  white  color ;  and  the  spray,  which  at  such  times 
ascends  in  pillars  towards  the  sky,  when  acted  upon 
by  the  rays  of  the  sun,  exhibits  the  rainbow  in  all  its 
brilliant  colors. 

"  The  fourth  fall  is  Sherman's,  and  is  distant  nearly 
70  rods  from  the  High  Falls.  The  descent  is  33  feet 
when  the  stream  is  low,  and  37  when  high.  In  droughts, 
the  water  pitches  down  at  the  west  side. 

"  The  last  fall  is  at  Conrad's  mills,  at  the  very  foot  of 
the  ravine,  and  is  6  feet. 

"Besides  the  falls,  there  are  several  raceways  or 
chutes,  from  10  to  20  rods  long,  through  which  the 


TRENTON  FALLS.  21 

waters  pass  with  great  rapidity.  The  whole  depres 
sion  of  the  stream  from  the  top  of  the  Upper  Fall  above 
the  high  bridge  to  the  foot  of  Conrad's  is  3 12  feet; 
and  if  we  add  the  descent  above  the  Upper  Fall,  which 
is  computed  to  be  60  feet,  and  that  below  Conrad's 
fall  in  half  a  mile,  which  is  estimated  at  15  feet,  we 
shall  find  that  the  entire  depression  in  less  than  5  miles, 
is  387  feet. 

"  The  falls,  raceways  and  rapids,  and,  in  truth,  the 
whole  bed  within  the  ravine,  exhibit  very  different  ap 
pearances  at  different  times.  These  are  occasioned  by 
the  elevations  and  depressions  of  the  stream.  In  floods, 
the  whole  is  one  tremendous  rapid,  with  four  cataracts 
and  several  chutes. 

"  The  best  time  to  visit  these  falls  is  when  the  stream 
is  low,  because  then  there  is  no  inconvenience  or  diffi 
culty  in  ascending  the  ravine  from  the  foot  of  Sher 
man's  stairway  to  the  head  of  the  upper  raceway.  Few 
persons  who  visit  them  have  resolution  to  ascend  the 
ravine  from  the  stairway  to  the  basin  at  the  upper  fall. 
This,  however,  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  because  the 
lofty  rocky  barriers  which  constitute  the  sides  of  the  ra 
vine  advance  to  the  water's  edge  in  many  places,  and  ter 
minate  in  frightful  projections,  which  cannot  be  passed 
without  the  most  imminent  danger.  Some  of  these 
difficulties,  however,  have  been  obviated  by  blasting 
away  portions  of  the  rocks  and  putting  up  chains ;  and 
persons  now  go  up  to  the  upper  raceway  without  haz 
ard. 

"  The  ravine,  with  some  few  exceptions,  is  still  bor 
dered  by  woods,  and  persons  desirous  of  visiting  the 
falls  are  obliged  to  go  to  what  is  called  Sherman's 


214  TRENTON  FALLS. 

house,  from  whence  they  proceed  through  the  woods 
by  some  rude  paths.  One  of  these  leads  to  the  stair 
way,  which  descends  to  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  and 
another  leads  up  to  the  High  Falls.  The  former  is  usu 
ally  preferred.  On  reaching  the  strand  at  the  foot  of 
the  stairway,  you  proceed  up  the  stream  at  first  upon 
the  strand,  and  then  by  a  narrow  winding  foot  path 
to  Sherman's  fall.  From  thence  you  advance  to  tho 
High  Falls,  a  part  of  the  way  being  overhung  by  large 
jutting  rocks  which  menace  you  with  destruction. 
From  the  head  of  the  High  Falls  to  the  upper  end  of 
the  raceway  above  the  Cascades,  the  way  is  easy  when 
the  stream  is  low,  but  from  thence  upwardly  it  is  diffi 
cult  and  dangerous. 

?'  While  you  are  passing  along  the  narrow  and  sinu 
ous  paths  leading  by  the  projections,  and  by  the  brinks 
of  headlong  precipices,  you  tremble  with  reverential 
awe  when  you  consider  that  one  false  step  might  pre 
cipitate  you  into  the  resistless  torrent  below,  and  in  an 
instant  consign  you  to  a  watery  grave.  You  see  what  a 
feeble  creature  man  is,  and  are  forcibly  impressed  with 
ideas  of  the  wisdom  and  power  of  that  mighty  Being 
who  commanded  the  earth  to  emerge  from  the  deep  and 
the  waters  to  flow. 

"  Along  the  bottom  and  lower  parts  of  the  ravine, 
numerous  organic  remains  are  found  enveloped  in  the 
rocks  which  are  easily  divisible.  The  remains  lie  flat 
in  or  between  the  laminae,  their  contours  and  compo 
nent  parts  usually  being  little  distorted  from  their  ori 
ginal  shape  and  dimensions.  Sometimes  there  is  de 
fect,  occasioned  in  the  transition  from  the  animal  to 
the  stony  or  fossil  state  ;  but,  in  most  instances,  all  tho 


STAGE  ROUTE — NEW  HARTFORD.  215 

parts  aro  so  completely  defined,  that  not  only  the  or 
der,  but  the  genera  and  species  may  be  recognized. 
These  remains  are  easily  separated  from  the  layers  in 
which  they  are  enclosed.  Their  exteriors  are  common 
ly  glossy,  often  very  smooth,  and  ordinarily  of  a  dark  col 
or,  being  transformed  into  stone,  and  constituting  inte 
gral  parts  of  the  rocks  which  envelope  them.  From  a 
careful  examination  of  certain  of  these  remains,  and 
their  positions,  we  are  led  to  believe  that  their  proto 
types  lived  and  died  on  the  spot,  and  that  the  rocks  in 
which  they  are  entombed  are  of  posterior  formation." 

Accommodations  for  visitants  are  furnished  at  Sher 
man's,  who  keeps  the  only  house  at  the  falls  for  that 
purpose.  Ladies  who  resort  thither,  should  be  furn 
ished  with  calf  skin  shoes  or  bootees.  They  not  only 
owe  it  to  their  health  to  be  thus  provided,  but  the  best 
pair  of  cloth  shoes  will  be  ruined  by  a  single  excursion 
over  these  rocks. 

Returning  to  Utica,  the  traveller,  in  pursuing  a  jour 
ney  to  the  west  by  stage,  first  reaches  the  pleasant 
village  of 

NEW-HARTFORD,  4  miles  from  Utica,  containing 
about  120  dwellings  and  stores,  three  churches,  be 
sides  a  number  of  mills  and  manufactories,  located  on 
the  Sadaquada  creek.  The  land  between  Utica  and 
New-Hartford  is  level  and  of  an  excellent  quality,  and 
resembles,  with  its  neat  and  regular  enclosures,  an  ex 
tensive  and  highly  cultivated  garden.  There  are  in  the 
vicinity  many  country  residences,  constructed  and  im 
proved  with  much  taste  and  elegance. 

One  mile  from  New-Hartford,  at  Chile's  tavern,  a 
tolerably  good  view  of  Hamilton  College,  3  or  4  miles 


$16  STAGE  HOUTE ONEIDA  CAflTLE, 

distant  at  the  S.  W.  is  obtained  ;  but  on  ascending  a 
more  elevated  position  one  mile  farther,  the  prospect 
of  the  college  and  several  adjoining  buildings,  is  very 
distinct  and  beautiful. 

MANCHESTER  is  5  miles  from  New-Hartford  ;  and 
the  country  between  the  two  villages  exhibits  some  of 
the  most  highly  cultivated  and  delightful  farms  in  the 
state. 

VERNON,  3  miles  from  Manchester,  is  a  flourishing 
town  of  some  magnitude.  It  contains  two  churches,  a 
number  of  mills  and  a  glass  factory. 

ONEIDA  CASTLE,  5  miles  from  Vernon,  is  situated 
on  the  Oneida  creek,  within  the  Oneida  Reservation. 
Here  is  a  considerable  settlement,  possessed  by  the 
Oneida  and  Tuscarora  Indians.  They  still  retain  the 
customs  and  dress  peculiar  to  their  tribes.  In  the  sum 
mer  they  are  employed  principally  in  cultivationn  ;  in 
the  fall  it  is  their  practice  to  repair  in  numbers  to  the 
hunting  grounds  in  the  north  part  of  the  state,  from 
whence  they  return  with  their  booty  in  the  latter  part 
of  winter.  This  tribe  entered  the  service  of  the  state, 
as  volunteers,  during  the  last  war. 

The  first  object  which  generally  attracts  the  notice 
of  the  traveller  in  passing  their  huts,  is  the  appearance 
of  several  half  naked  children,  swarming  forth  in  quest 
of  the  daily  contributions  which  arc  made  them  by 
tourists.  It  is  astonishing  to  witness  their  speed,  and 
the  ease  with  which  they  frequently  continue  parallel 
with  the  stage  for  half  a  mile,  until  satisfied  that  no 
more  donations  are  to  be  obtained.  It  would  doubt 
less  be  better  for  these  children  that  this  system  of 
beggary  should  not  be  tolerated  ;  but  the  novelty  of 


STAGE  ROUTE— CHITTENINGO.  217 

the  spectacle  induces  many  individuals  to  countenance 
it,  who  would,  upon  sound  principle,  consider  it  objec 
tionable. 

The  lands  in  this  reservation  are  but  indifferently 
cultivated,  and  assume  a  miserable  aspect  in  compar 
ison  with  the  rich  and  highly  improved  farms  on  either 
side.  In  passing  over  an  elevated  tract,  however,  this 
disparagement  is  in  a  measure  lost  in  the  extensive 
prospect  which  is  afforded  at  the  north.  A  chain  of  lof 
ty  mountains  is  seen  skirting  the  horizon  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  extend  ;  between  which  and  the  tract  in  ques 
tion,  are  seen  immense  and  apparently  impenetrable 
forests.  The  prospect  is  sublime  ;  and  will  amply  re 
pay  the  traveller  in  stopping  a  short  time  to  enjoy  this 
rich  and  extensive  scenery. 

LENOX,  a  small  village,  is  3  miles  from  Oneida  Castle. 
One  mile  farther,  the  flourishing  and  newly  erected  vil 
lage  of  CANESTOTA  is  seen  about  half  a  mile  north  of 
the  turnpike  on  an  extensive  plain  below,  with  the  Erie 
canal  passing  through  it. 

QUALITY  HILL,  a  neat  little  village  on  a  pleasant  em 
inence,  ig  3  miles  from  Lenox  ;  and  five  miles  farther  is 
the  village  of 

CKITTENINGO,  situated  on  a  creek  of  that  name,  and 
from  which  a  feeder  1  1-2  mile  long,  is  constructed  to 
the  canal.  The  village  is  bounded  by  very  lofty  hills, 
and  cannot  be  considered  a  happy  location,  except  for 
manufacturing  purposes.  An  extensive  seminary  call 
ed  the  "Polytechny,"  has  been  established  here  by 
Doctor  Yatcs,  formerly  a  professor  at  Union  College. 
Under  the  direction  of  one  so  distinguished  for  benev 
olence  and  classical  attainments,  it  has  obtained  much 


~;  ST\G2  aOLTTS— MANLIUM, 

celebrity,  and  may  be  justly  ranked  among  the  best 
institutions  of  the  kind  in  the  state.  Gypsum  is  hero 
found  in  great  quantities  ;  also  numerous  petrifactions, 
specimens  of  which  are  in  [most  of  the  mineralogical 
cabinets  in  the  Union.  These  petrifactions  are  near 
the  village  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  and  consist  of  the  trunk 
of  a  tree  and  scattered  fragments,  the  woody  structure 
of  which,  in  most  cases,  is  remarkably  perfect,  and 
bearing  a  strong  resemblance  to  the  original.  Various 
springs  of  water  issue  from  the  sides  of  the  hill,  which 
exhibits  numerous  incrustations  (calcareous  tufa)  along 
its  slope  and  in  the  vale  below.  To  the  properties  of 
these  waters  way  be  attributed  the  formation  of  these 
incrustations  and  petrifactions. 

At  Chitteningo,  the  road  diverges,  forming  two  prom 
inent  routes  to  Auburn  ;  one  passing  through  the  vil 
lages  of  MANLIUS,  ONONDAGA  HOLLOW,  ONONDAGA 
HILL,  MARCELLUS  and  SKANEATELES,  and  the  other 
passing  through  the  village  of  SYRACUSE,  noticed  in  the 
canal  route.  The  first  mentioned  route,  though  over 
a  less  even  country,  is  the  one  generally  preferred  by 
travellers,  as  affording  a  more  rich  and  diversified  scene 
ry  of  highly  cultivated  farms  and  flourishing  villages. 
Four  miles  from  Chitteningo,  on  the  road  to  Manlius, 
is  an  eminence  from  which  a  beautiful  prospect  is  ob 
tained  of  a  part  of  Oneida  Lake  and  a  wide  extent  of 
hilly  country  beyond,  Onondaga  Lake,  and  the  vil 
lage  of  Onondaga  Hill,  15  miles  distant.  Four  miles 
farther  is  the  flourishing  village  of 

MANLIUS,  situated  on  the  east  side  of  Limestone 
creek,  containing  about  100  houses,  4  churches,  2  cot 
ton  factories,  mills,  &c.  It  is  in  contemplation  to  make  a 


STAGE  ROUTE — MARCELLUS.  219 

lateral  cut  of  2  miles  which  shall  connect  this  creek 
with  the  western  canal.  There  are  in  tho  vicinity  2 
considerable  falls,  the  principal  of  which  is  100  feet  in 
height. 

JAMESVILLE  is  6  miles  from  Manlius.  Green  Pond, 
in  this  vicinity,  is  worthy  of  notice.  The  water  is  200 
feet  deep,  and  of  a  deep  green  color,  emitting  a  strong 
smell  of  sulphur.  The  surface  of  the  pond  is  between 
100  and  200  feet  below  the  level  of  its  shores,  which 
are  precipitous  and  rocky.  Four  miles  farther  is  the 
village  of 

ONONDAGA  HOLLOW,  extending  1  mile  across  a  deep 
but  beautiful  valley,  through  which  the  Onondaga  creek 
passes.  The  village  contains  an  academy,  church,  &c. ; 
but  its  business  has  declined  since  the  opening  of 
the  canal,  and  the  springing  up  of  the  village  of  Sy 
racuse,  which  is  4  miles  distant.  Three  miles  south 
of  Onondaga  Hollow  is  a  considerable  settlement  of 
Onondaga  Indians,  where  once  was  held  the  grand 
councils  of  the  Six  Nations. 

ONONDAGA  HILL,  2  miles  farther,  is  pleasantly  situa 
ted  on  very  high  ground,  with  a  commanding  view  of 
the  country  to  the  north  and  east  for  a  considerable  dis 
tance,  embracing  within  the  prospect  the  Onondaga 
Lake  and  the  villages  of  Syracuse,  Salina  and  Liver 
pool. 

MARCELLUS,  8  miles  from  Onondaga  Hill,  is  a  neat 
village  of  60  or  70  houses,  situated  in  the  valley  of  the 
Otisco  creek.  Two  miles  north  are  falls  of  some  60  or 
70  feet  affording  facilities  for  a  variety  of  manufactories  • 
near  which,  water  lime  or  cement  is  found  in  inexhaust 
ible  quantities.  There  is  also  lying  on  the  bank  of  the 


0  STAGE  ROUTE — SKANEATELES. 

creek  at  this  place  a  petrified  tree  of  large   dimeri' 
sions,  partly  covered  with  limestone. 

SKANEATELES,  6  miles  from  Marcellus,  is  situated  at 
the  foot  of  the  Skaneateles  Lake,  and  is  a  beautiful 
thriving  village,  containing  about  1000  inhabitants,  2 
churches  and  a  flourishing  academy,  a  variety  of  man 
ufactories,  mills  and  many  elegant  private  dwellings. 
It  enjoys  a  commanding  view  of  the  lake  for  6  or  8 
miles  above  and  of  the  surrounding  country,  which  ri 
ses  in  a  gentle  aclivity  from  the  water  100  feet  or  more 
in  the  course  of  a  mile,  presenting  a  range  of  neat  white 
farm  houses  on  the  summit,  and  a  slope  of  highly  cul 
tivated  country  towards  the  lake  on  each  side.  The 
lake,  which  is  16  miles  long  and  from  half  a  mile  to 
two  miles  in  width,  abounds  with  fine  trout  and  other 
fish.  The  water  is  deep  and  remarkably  pure,  with  a 
gravelly  bottom  and  bold  shores.  The  prospect  from 
the  lake  is  highly  interesting,  particularly  towards  its 
head,  where  the  country  rises  abruptly  several  hundred 
feet,  presenting  a  miniature  picture  of  mountain  scene 
ry.  Under  these  bluffs  on  the  east  side  and  on  a  level 
with  the  water  are  found  large  quantites  of  petrifactions, 
the  cornu  ammonite,  imbeded  in  a  stratum  of  slate. 
Three  miles  north  of  the  village  the  Skaneateles  creek 
falls  over  a  bed  of  rocks  about  70  feet  in  a  short  dis 
tance  ;  but,  in  low  water,  the  whole  is  lost  or  sinks 
among  the  rocks  and  only  a  part  of  it  again  appears  at 
a  distance  of  half  a  mile  below,  presenting  the  novel 
spectacle  of  a  river  much  larger  at  its  fountain  than  at 
its  mouth.  Seven  miles  from  Skaneateles  stands  the 
flourishing  village  of 


STAGE  ROUTE — AUBURN.  1 

AUBURN.  It  is  situated  on  the  Owasco  creek,  two 
miles  below  its  outlet  from  the  lake  of  the  same  name, 
24  miles  from  Onondaga,  and  170  from  Albany.  This 
village  owes  much  of  its  importance  to  the  numerous 
mills  and  manufactories  for  which  its  location  is  ex 
tremely  eligible.  It  contains  about  450  houses  and 
4000  inhabitants.  Amongst  other  public  buildings 
there  are  a  court  house  and  gaol,  and  a  prison  erect 
ed  for  convicts  at  the  expense  of  the  state.  There 
has  also  been  established  a  theological  seminary, 
which  is  patronized  exclusively  by  the  Presbyterian  de 
nomination,  and  is  at  present  the  only  one  of  the  kind 
in  the  state.  Many  circumstances  combine  to  render 
this  place  an  agreeable  residence  to  the  man  of  taste  or 
business.  The  village  is  handsomely  built,  and  in 
creases  annually  in  population  and  business.  It  is  sit 
uated  7  miles  from  WEED'S  PORT,  on  the  canal,  to 
which  place  stages  run  daily,  for  the  accommodation 
of  passengers  wishing  to  take  packet  boats  for  the  west 
or  east — fare  50  cents.  A  lateral  canal  or  rail  road 
from  Auburn  to  Weed's  Port  is  in  contemplation,  and 
Mall  probably,  ere  long,  go  into  effect. 

The  principal  public  houses  are  the  Western  Ex 
change  and  Bank  Coffee  House. 

The  STATE  PRISON,  at  Auburn,  is  considered  one  of 
the  best  in  the  Union.  It  was  commenced  in  1816, 
and  is  constructed  upon  the  plan  of  a  hollow  square, 
enclosed  by  a  wall  2000  feet  in  extent,  being  500  feet 
on  each  side.  The  front  of  the  prison,  including  the 
keeper's  dwelling,  is  about  300  feet,  and  the  two  wings 
extending  west,  are  240  feet  each.  The  north  wing 
contains  the  solitary  cells  and  hospital,  and  the  south 


222 


STAGE  ROUTE — AUBURN. 


wing  is  divided  principally  into  two  large  rooms.  Be 
tween  the  two  wings  is  a  grass  plat  with  gravel  walks ; 
to  the  west  of  which  is  the  interior  yard,  covered  with 
gravel,  containing  reservoirs  of  water,  and  surrounded 
with  workshops.  These  shops,  besides  the  paint  shop, 
form  a  continued  range  of  900  feet ;  and  are  well 
lighted  by  windows  in  the  sides  and  from  the  roof. 
They  are  built  of  brick,  and  are  well  secured  against 
fire.  The  outer  walls,  against  which  the  shops  are 
built,  are  35  feet  high  on  the  inside,  and  the  other  walls 
about  20.  They  are  four  feet  thick,  and  the  walls  of 
the  prison  3  feet.  The  expense  of  the  whole,  without 
including  the  labor  of  convicts  employed,  was  above 
$300,000.  The  prison  being  erected  on  the  bank  of 
the  Owasco,  water  power  is  applied  in  many  cases,  to 
great  advantage,  in  propelling  machinery. 

The  most  interesting  period  for  witnessing  the  pris 
oners  is  early  in  the  morning,  from  the  time  they  are 
brought  forth  to  labor  till  after  breakfast.  The  spec 
tator  will  then  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  some  of 
the  prominent  features  of  the  order,  regularity  and 
system  with  which  every  thing  is  conducted.  He  will 
admire  the  precision  with  which  the  rules  are  execu 
ted,  without  the  least  confusion,  noise,  or  even  com 
mand.  "The  convicts  silently  marching  to  and  from 
their  rest,  meals  and  labor,  at  precise  times,  moving  in 
separate  corps,  in  single  file,  with  a  slow  lock  step, 
erect  posture,  keeping  exact  time,  with  their  faces  in. 
clined  towards  their  keepers,  (that  they  may  detect 
conversation,  of  which  none  is  ever  permitted,)  all  give 
to  the  spectator  somewhat  similar  feelings  to  those  ex 
cited  by  a  military  funeral ;  and  to  the  convicts,  im- 


STAGE  ROUTE — SENECA  FALLS.       V9® 

prossions  not  entirely  dissimilar  to  those  of  culprits 
wlien  marching  to  the  gallows.  The  same  silence,  so 
lemnity  and  order,  in  a  good  degree,  pervades  every 
business  and  department." 

In  addition  to  divine  service  in  the  chapel  of  the  pris 
on  every  Sabbath,  a  Sunday  school  has  been  establish 
ed,  superintended  by  the  students  of  the  theological 
seminary,  which  has  been  attended  with  very  beneficial 
effects. 

So  admirable  has  been  the  discipline  of  this  prison 
that  a  large  proportion  of  the  convicts  discharged  have 
become  honest,  industrious  men,  and  none  are  known 
to  have  become  corrupted  or  made  worse.  In  1829, 
the  number  confined  was  about  570,  and  their  earnings 
considerably  exceeded  the  expenses  of  the  prison. 

CAYUGA,  8  miles  west  of  Auburn,  is  a  small  village  ; 
but  affords  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the  Cayuga  Lake, 
and  the  bridge  extending  across,  which  is  1  mile  and 
S  rods  long,  and  situate  within  2  miles  of  the  outlet. 
This  lake  is  38  miles  in  length,  and  is  generally  from 
1  to  2  miles  in  breadth.  The  water  is  shallow,  but 
of  sufficient  depth  for  a  good  sized  steam-boat,  which 
plies  daily  between  the  bridge  and  Ithica,  a  beautiful 
and  thriving  village,  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  36  miles 
distant. 

The  SENECA  FALLS,  3  miles  west  of  Cayuga,  afford 
important  manufacturing  facilities.  A  canal,  20  miles 
long,  has  been  constructed  from  this  place  to  the  Erie 
canal  at  Montezuma ;  which,  connected  with  a  branch 
of  the  Seneca  river,  gives  an  uninterrupted  water  com 
munication  from  Geneva  to  the  lakes  and  the  ocean, 
Four  miles  farther,  is  the  handsome  village  of 


22  1  STAGE  ROUTE — GENEVA. 

WATERLOO,  a  half  shire  town  in  Seneca  county.  It 
contains  nearly  200  houses,  a  court-house,  jail,  and  2 
printing  offices.  The  village  is  principally  situate  on 
the  northern  bank  of  the  Seneca  outlet ;  which  here 
propels  several  mills.  The  commencement  of  this  vil 
lage  was  in  1316  ;  and  its  growth,  which  has  been  rap 
id,  is  far  from  complete.  Constant  additions  of  build 
ings  and  mills  are  making ;  and  it  will  doubtless,  ere 
long,  be  ranked  among  the  important  villages  of  the 
west.  The  principal  public  house  at  this  place  is  the 
Western  Hotel.  From  Waterloo  to 

GENEVA,  7  miles  distant,  the  route  is  delightful,  em 
bracing  (a  part  of  the  way)  a  charming  ride  around  the 
north  end  of  the  Seneca  Lake,  which  is  here  about  2 
miles  wide.  The  village  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  in 
the  state  ;  and,  with  its  beautiful  scenery,  cannot  fail 
of  calling  forth  the  admiration  of  every  visitant.  It  is 
situate  on  the  western  margin  of  the  lake,  the  bank  of 
which  being  lofty,  affords  an  enchanting  view  of  one  of 
the  purest  sheets  of  water  in  America.  There  are  al 
ready  in  this  place  about  450  buildings,  many  of  which 
are  very  handsome  ;  and  the  number  is  constantly  in 
creasing.  Among  the  public  buildings  are  a  college, 
an  academy,  4  churches  and  a  bank.  The  college  is 
located  on  an  eminence  south  of  the  village,  on  the 
margin  of  the  lake;  and  though  in  its  infancy,  is 
handsomely  patronized.  It  is  in  the  vicinity  of  several 
country  seats,  enjoying  an  unusual  richness  of  pros 
pect,  with  an  almost  constant  breeze  from  the  lake ; 
which  is  about  35  miles  long,  and  from  3  to  4  miles 
wide.  It  abounds  with  salmon  trout  and  other  fish, 
and  is  never  closed  with  ice.  A  steam-boat  runs  daily 


STAGE  ROUTE  —  GENEVA. 


from  Geneva  to  Jeffersonvillo,  at  the  head  of  the  lake, 
leaving  the  former  place  at  7  A.  M.,  and  returning  at 
evening.*  The  Genesee  turnpike  leads  through  Gene- 


*  A  passage  on  the  lake  is  peculiarly  delightful  and 
interesting.  Leaving  Geneva  with  its  neat  stores,  and 
elegant  dwellings,  its  luxuriant  hanging  gardens,  and 
the" glittering  spires  of  its  churches  and  college,  the  eye 
takes  in  a  southern  water  view  not  surpassed  in  any 
part  of  this  world  of  inland  seas.  The  first  village  of 
any  note  on  the  eastern  shore  is  Ovid,  18  miles  from 
Geneva.  The  lofty  eminence  on  which  it  stands,  and 
the  rich  and  highly  cultivated  farms  in  its  vicinity,  ren 
der  it  a  most  conspicuous  and  interesting  object.  Di 
rectly  opposite  to  Ovid  is  Dresden,  one  of  the  most 
thriving  villages  in  Yates  county.  It  is  situated  on  the 
outlet  of  Crooked  Lake,  and  extends  nearly  a  mile  back 
of  the  shore.  Immediately  south  of  Dresden,  is  the 
farm  of  the  late  celebrated  Jemima  Wilkinson,  an  en 
thusiast,  who  pretended  that  she  was  the  Saviour  of 
mankind.  Until  her  death,  which  took  place  some 
years  since,  she  had  several  followers ;  and  this  farm, 
which  is  very  beautiful,  has  passed  by  will  into  the 
hands  of  one  of  them.  Four  miles  south  of  Dresden  is 
Long  Point,  remarkable  for  a  tree  at  its  extremity, 
which,  by  a  little  aid  from  the  imagination  puts  on  the 
semblance  of  an  elephant.  Six  miles  south  of  Long 
Point  is  Rapelyca's  ferry,  near  which  is  still  standing 
the  frame  which  Jemima  constructed  to  try  the  faith 
of  her  followers.  Having  approached  within  a  few 
hundred  yards  of  the  lake  shore,  she  alighted  from  an 
elegant  carriage,  and  the  road  being  strewed  by  her 
followers  with  white  handkerchiefs,  she  walked  to  the 
platform,  and  having  announced  her  intention  of  walk 
ing  across  the  lake  on  the  water,  she  stepped  ankle  deep 
into  the  clear  element,  when  suddenly  pausing,  she  ad 
dressed  the  multitude,  inquiring  whether  or  not  they 
had  faith  that  she  could  pass  over,  for  if  otherwise,  she 


226  STAGE  ROUTE — CANANDAIGfJA. 

va,  and  the  Erie  canal  passes  about  12  miles  to  the 
north  of  it  j  with  which  there  is  a  water  communica 
tion,  by  means  of  the  outlet  of  the  Seneca  lake  and  a 
lateral  canal.  This  communication  has  already  proved 
of  great  importance  to  the  place,  and  has  rendered  its 
trade  but  little  inferior  to  the  most  favored  villages  of 
the  west.  The  principal  public  houses  in  the  place  are 
St.  John's  and  Hemingway's  ;  both  of  which  are  high 
ly  creditable  to  the  proprietors. 

CANANDAIGUA  is  1 5  miles  from  Geneva.  This  vil 
lage  is  situated  near  the  outlet  of  the  lake  from  which 
it  takes  its  name,  on  a  gentle  ascent  commanding  a 
fine  view  of  the  lake  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile. 
The  principal  street  extends  2  miles  in  length,  and  is 


could  not ;  and  on  receiving  an  affirmative  answer,  re 
turned  to  her  carriage,  declaring  that  as  they  believed 
in  her  power,  it  was  unnecessary  to  display  it.  Six 
miles  and  a  half  south  of  Rapelyea's  ferry,  is  Starkie's 
Point,  where  the  shore  is  so  bold  that  the  steam-boat 
passes  within  10  feet  of  the  extremity  of  the  Point. 
Four  miles  further  on  the  west  shore  is  the  Big  Stream 
Point,  at  which  there  is  a  mill  seat  with  a  fall  of  136 
feet.  The  land  puts  on  a  wilder  aspect  as  the  tourist 
approaches  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  the  eminences  are 
more  beetling  and  precipitous.  The  eastern  shore  also 
partakes  more  of  the  mountainous  character,  though 
cultivated  far  up  the  summit  lands,  and  is  here  and 
there  marked  by  ravines,  through  one  of  which  "  Hec 
tor  Falls"  tumble  from  a  height  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet,  and  carry  several  valuable  mills.  These  falls 
are  distant,  three  miles  from  the  village  of  JefFersonvillp, 
at  the  head  of  the  lake,  which  has  recently  sprung  into 
existence,  and  which  will  soon  become  an  important 
inland  town. 


BURNING    SPRINGS,  337 

handsomely  decorated  with  frees,  through  which  ap 
pear  the  delicately  painted  dwellings,  ornamented  with 
Venitian  blinds.  In  an  open  square,  in  the  centre  of 
the  village,  is  the  court  house  and  clerk's  office  of  the 
county.  The  Episcopal  church,  situate  on  the  main 
street,  is  one  of  the  most  elegantly  constructed  build 
ings  in  the  state.  In  the  vicinity  are  a  number  of  de 
lightful  villas,  surrounded  with  smiling  gardens  and 
orchards  of  various  kinds  of  fruit,  which,  with  the  view 
of  the  lake  stretching  far  to  the  south,  beautifully  set 
off  the  scene  of  enchantment.  In  richness  and  variety 
of  natural  scenery,  and  the  taste  and  elegance  of  its 
edifices,  few  villages  can  compare  with  Canandaigua. 
In  point  of  trade  and  wealth,  too,  it  is  not  exceeded  by 
many  villages  in  the  state.  A  steam  mill  is  here  in  op 
eration,  which  annually  furnishes  a  very  large  supply 
of  flour.  On  the  lake,  w^hich  is  14  miles  long,  and 
from  one  to  two  in  breadth,  a  steam-boat  performs  a 
daily  trip,  which  is  rendered  unusually  interesting  from 
the  varied  scenery  which  is  presented.  The  village  is 
situated  208  miles  from  Albany ;  from  Utica,  111;  from 
Buffalo,  89  ;  from  Niagara  Falls,  109.  Principal  hou 
ses,  Blossom's  Hotel  (one  of  the  best  in  the  western 
district)  and  Pitt's  Eagle  Tavern. 

BURNING  SPRINGS.  From  8  to  10  miles,  in  a  south 
westerly  direction  from  Canandaigua,  are  found  several 
springs,  charged  with  inflamable  gas.  The  following 
description  of  them  is  taken  from  a  Canandaigua  jour 
nal  : 

"  These  springs  arc  found  in  Bristol,  Middlesex,  and 
Canandaigua. 

u2 


2"28  BURNING   SPRINGS. 

The  i'urmcr  are  situated  in  a  iavi.i.-  <m  the  west  side 
of  Bristol  Hollow,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  North 
Presbyterian  meeting  house.  The  ravine  is  formed  in 
clay  slate,  and  a  small  brook  runs  through  it.  The  gas 
rises  through  fissures  of  the  slate,  from  both  the  mar 
gin  and  the  bed  of  the  brook.  Where  it  rises  through 
the  water,  it  is  formed  into  bubbles,  and  flashes  only 
when  the  flame  is  applied  ;  but  where  it  rises  directly 
from  the  rock,  it  burns  with  a  steady  and  beautiful 
flame,  which  continues  until  extinguished  by  storms,  or 
by  design. 

The  springs  in  Middlesex  are  situated  from  one  to 
two  miles  southwesterly  from  the  village  of  Rushville, 
along  a  tract  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  partly  at  the  bot 
tom  of  the  valley  called  Federal  Hollow,  and  partly  at 
an  elevation  of  40  or  50  feet  on  the  south  side  of  it. 

The  latter  have  been  discovered  within  a  few  years, 
in  a  field  which  had  been  long  cleared,  and  are  very  nu 
merous.  Their  places  are  known  by  little  hillocks  of  a 
few  feet  in  diameter,  and  a  few  inches  high,  formed  of 
a  dark  bituminous  mould,  which  seems  principally  to 
have  been  deposited  by  the  gas,  and  through  which  it 
finds  its  way  to  the  surface,  in  one  or  more  currents. 
These  currents  of  gas  may  be  set  on  fire,  and  will  burn 
with  a  steady  flame.  In  winter  they  form  openings 
through  the  snow,  and  being  set  on  fire,  exhibit  the  nov 
el  and  interesting  phenomenon  of  a  steady  and  lively 
flame  in  contact  with  nothing  but  snow.  In  very  cold 
weather,  it  is  said,  tubes  of  ice  are  formed  round  these 
currents  of  gas,  (probably  from  the  freezing  of  the  wa 
ter  contained  in  it,)  which  sometimes  rise  to  the  height 
of  two  or  three  feet,  the  gas  issuing  from  their  tope; 


BURNING  SPRINGS.  '229 

the  whole  when  lighted  in  a  still  ^evening  presenting 
an  appearance  even  more  beautiful  Uhan  the  former. 

Experiments  made  with  the  gas  seem  to  prove,  that 
it  consists  principally  of  a  mixture  of  the  light  and  heavy 
carburctted  hydrogen  gases,  the  former  having  greatly 
the  preponderance ;  and  that  it  contains  a  small  pro 
portion  of  carbonic  acid  gas.  It  seems  also  to  hold  a 
little  oily  or  bituminous  matter  in  solution.  It  burns 
with  a  lambent,  yellowish  flame,  scarcely  inclining  to 
red,  with  small  scintillations  of  a  bright  red  at  its  base. 
It  has  the  odour  of  pit  coal.  It  produces  no  smoke, 
but  deposits,  while  burning,  a  small  quantity  of  bitu 
minous  lampblack.  It  is  remarkable  that  the  hillocks, 
through  which  the  gas  rises,  are  totally  destitute  of 
vegetation.  Whether  the  gas  is  directly  deleterious  to 
vegetable  life,  or  indirectly,  by  interrupting  the  contact 
of  the  air  of  the  atmosphere,  it  is  certain  that  no  plant 
can  sustain  life  within  the  circle  of  its  influence. 

It  is  well  known  that  this  gas  isjbund  abundantly  in 
coal  mines  ;  and  being  accidentally  set  on  fire,  (mixed 
as  it  is  in  those  mines  with  the  air  of  the  atmosphere,) 
has  many  times  caused  terrible  and  destructive  explo 
sions.  The  writer  cannot  learn  that  it  has  ever  been 
known  to  be  generated  in  the  earth,  except  in  the  pres 
ence  of  coal ;  and  hence  the  inference  is  strong  that  it 
proceeds  from  coal." 

From  Canandaigua  stages  may  be  taken  for  Roches 
ter,  (see  "  Canal  Route,")  distant  27  miles  in  a  north 
westerly  direction,  and  the  route  continued  from  thence 
to  the  Falls  by  stage  or  canal ;  but  if  a  visit  to  Montre 
al,  by  the  way  of  Lake  Ontario,  is  not  contemplated,  it 
is  generally  deemed  a  better  course  to  proceed  directly 


*>30       STAGE  ROUTE — AVON  SPRING. 

to  Buffalo  and  the  Falls,  and  return  by  the  way  of  Ro 
chester.  In  pursuing  the  usual  route  from  Canandai- 
gua  to  Buffalo, 

EAST  BLOOMFIELD  is  reached  in  travelling  9  miles, 
and  WEST  BLOOMFIELD  in  going  5  miles  farther.  They 
are  considered  among  the  richest  agricultural  town 
ships  in  the  state  ;  presenting  a  succession  of  beauti 
ful  and  highly  cultivated  farms.  The  fruit  raised  on 
these  lands,  particularly  apples  and  peaches,  is  not  ex 
celled  in  any  section  of  the  country. 

LIMA  is  4  miles  from  West  Bloomfield,  and  is  a  con 
tinuation  of  the  same  rich  and  fertile  soil,  divided  into 
highly  improved  and  productive  farms. 

EAST  AVON  is  5,  and  AVON  POST  OFFICE  7  miles 
from  Lima.  The  Genesee  river  passes  through  the 
town  of  Avon,  and  is  navigable  for  boats  to  the  Erie 
canal  at  Rochester,  20  miles  distant,  with  which  it  is 
connected  by  a  feeder.  The  alluvial  flats  are  very  ex 
tensive  and  fertile  ;  and  the  uplands  are  well  watered 
by  small  streams  and  springs.  A  remarkable  bulbous 
root  grow7 s  on  the  Genesee  flats  in  this  town.  It  is 
from  3  to  4  feet  in  length,  from  6  to  8  inches  in  diame 
ter,  and  assumes  the  external  appearance  of  a  log  in 
the  earth.  A  small  creeping  vine,  like  that  of  the 
strawberry,  proceeds  from  the  root ;  and  its  natural 
vegetable  productions  are  almost  infinitely  various. 

The  AVON  SPRING  is  becoming  a  place  of  considera 
ble  resort  for  invalids.  Its  waters,  which  are  strongly 
impregnated  with  sulphur  and  alum,  are  found  benefi 
cial  in  various  diseases.  The  tourist,  will  generally  find 
himself  amply  compensated  by  spending  a  day  at  this 
place. 


STAGE  ROUTE — LE  ROY,  231 

CALEDONIA,  8  miles  from  Avon  Post  Office,  is  more 
particularly  celebrated  as  the  location  of  a  large  Spring, 
than  for  any  thing  else.  The  stage  usually  stops  at 
the  village  long  enough  to  enable  passengers  to  visit 
this  natural  curiosity,  which  is  situate  a  few  rods  north 
of  the  principal  street.  Within  a  small  area,  sufficient 
water  rises  to  propel  a  mill,  (of  which  there  are  several 
on  the  stream  below,)  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  The 
water  is  pure  and  appears  to  rise  from  a  rocky  bottom. 
A  stage  runs  daily  from  this  place  to  Rochester,  which 
is  20  miles  distant.  A  part  of  the  route  lies  on  the 
bank  of  the  Genesee  river,  and,  most  of  the  way, 
through  an  uncultivated  country.  Settlements  and 
improvements,  however,  are  rapidly  increasing;  and 
the  wilderness  will  ere  long  give  place  to  the  arts  of 
husbandry. 

Pursuing  the  direct  route  from  Caledonia  to  Buffalo, 
the  next  place  of  importance  is  the  pleasant  and  thri 
ving  village  of 

LEROY,  which  is  6  miles  west  of  Caledonia,  an  17 
miles  south  of  the  Erie  Canal.  Allen's  creek,  which 
passes  through  the  village,  affords  important  mill  privi 
leges,  and  contributes  much  to  the  value  and  business 
of  the  place.  The  number  of  buildings  already  erect 
ed  is  between  2  and  300,  principally  located  on  one 
street ;  among  which  are  several  very  handsome  pri 
vate  dwellings.  Numerous  petrifactions  have  been 
found  in  the  bed  of  the  creek,  about  200  yards  north  of 
the  village  bridge ;  among  which  are  petrified  turtles, 
weighing  from  10  to  300  pounds.  They  are  composed 
principally  of  dark  coloured  bituminous  limestone, 
which  is  easily  pplit,  and  often  discovers  crystaline 


232          STAGE  ROUTE — BATAVIA. 

veins,  together  with  yellow  clay  or  ochre.  The  mine 
ralogist  will  find  much  here  to  gratify  his  taste  and  re 
ward  his  researches.  The  delightful  appearance  of  the 
village,  also,  with  its  charming  location  on  an  emi 
nence,  will  often  induce  the  traveller  to  make  it  a  tem 
porary  resting  place  from  the  fatigues  of  a  journey. 

BATAVIA  is  10  miles  from  Le  Roy.  It  is  the  capital 
of  Genesee  county ;  and  assumes  more  the  appearance 
of  one  of  the  early  settled  villages  in  New-England, 
than  the  more  flourishing  villages  of  the  west.  It  is 
situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Tonewanta  creek,  on 
an  extensive  plain,  and  has  several  handsome  and  even 
elegant  private  mansions.  Besides  the  court  house 
and  jail,  it  contains  a  bank,  the  Holland  Company  land 
office,  and  a  few  other  public  buildings. 

This  village  has  become  somewhat  celebrated  as  the 
theatre  of  events  connected  with  the  masonic  fraterni 
ty.  It  was  the  residence  of  the  noted  William  Morgan, 
previous  to  his  abduction  ;  and  from  one  of  its  print 
ing  offices  was  first  issued  what  has  been  denominated 
the  secrets  of  masonry.  The  excitement  produced  for 
a  time  in  the  village,  and  for  many  miles  around,  was 
of  a  nature  the  most  rancorous  and  intolerant,  and  un 
worthy  the  character  of  an  enlightened  people.  Illibe 
ral  feelings,  however,  have,  in  a  measure,  given  place 
to  reason  ;  and  there  is  a  prevailing  disposition  to  es 
tablish  peace  and  good  order. 

After  leaving  Batavia  for  Buffalo,  the  country  soon 
assumes  a  less  populous  appearance ;  and  the  travel 
ling  is  rendered  unpleasant  from  the  extensive  cause 
ways  which  intervene,  consisting  of  logs  placed  trans 
versely  in  the  road.  This  has  been  done  to  avoid  the 


EftlE  CANAL.  233 

deep  mud  on  the  low  grounds,  which  are  subject  to 
frequent  inundations  in  the  spring  and  fall.  The  state 
of  these  roads  has  induced  many  to  prefer  the  ridge 
road  or  alluvial  way  from  Rochester  to  Lewistori, 
(which  is  noticed  in  a  subsequent  part  of  this  volume.) 
But,  in  visiting  Buffalo  as  well  as  the  Falls,  the  latter 
route  is  more  circuitous,  and  can  be  taken  with  greater 
convenience  in  returning. 

The  intervening  places  between  Batavia  and  Buffa 
lo,  are  Pembroke,  14  miles — Clarence  8 — Williamsville 
8 — from  which  to  Buffalo  is  10  miles.  [For  a  descrip 
tion  of  the  latter  place,  see  "  Canal  Route."] 

ERIE  CANAL. 

This  magnificent  structure  was  commenced  under 
the  patronage  of  the  state,  on  the  4th  of  July,  1817, 
and  was  completed  in  1825,  uniting  the  waters  of  the 
Erie  and  Hudson,  at  an  expense  of  less  than  seven  mil 
lions  of  dollars,  a  sum  trivial  in  comparison  with  the 
immense  advantage  derived  to  the  state  from  such 
communication.  The  canal,  beginning  at  Albany  on 
the  Hudson,  passes  up  the  west  bank  of  that  river 
nearly  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk  ;  thence  along  the 
bank  of  the  Mohawk,  to  Schenectady,  crossing  the  riv 
er  twice  by  2  aqueducts.  From  Schenectady  it  follows 
the  south  bank  of  the  Mohawk  until  it  reaches  Rome. 
In  some  places  it  encroaches  so  near  as  to  require  em 
bankments  made  up  from  the  river  to  support  it.  An 
embankment  of  this  description  at  Amsterdam  village, 
is  5  or  6  miles  in  extent.  What  is  called  the  long  level, 
being  a  distance  of  69  1-2  miles  without  an  interven 
ing  lock,  commences  in  the  town  of  Frankfort,  about  S 


234  KJUE  CANAL. 

miles  east  of  Utica,  and  terminates  3-4  of  a  mile  cast 
from  Syracuse;  from  thence  the  route  proceeds  35 
miles  to  Montezuma,  situated  on  the  east  border  of  the 
Cayuga  marshes,  3  miles  in  extent,  over  which  to  the 
great  embankment,  72  feet  in  height  and  near  2  miles 
in  length,  is  a  distance  of  52  miles  ;  thence  8  1-2  miles 
to  the  commencement  of  the  Genesee  level,  extending 
westward  to  Lockport,  nearly  parallel  with  the  ridge 
road,  65  miles.  Seven  miles  from  thence  to  Pendleton 
village  the  canal  enters  Tonnewanta  creek,  which  it 
follows  12  miles,  and  thence  following  the  east  side  of 
the  Niagara  river,  communicates  with  Lake  Erie  at 
Buffalo.  The  whole  line  of  the  canal  from  Albany  to 
Buffalo  is  363  miles  in  length.  It  is  40  feet  wide  at  the 
top  and  28  feet  wide  at  the  bottom.  The  water  flows 
at  the  depth  of  4  feet  in  a  moderate  descent  of  half  an 
inch  in  a  mile.  The  tow  path  is  elevated  about  4  feet 
from  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  is  10  feet  wide.  The 
whole  length  of  the  canal  includes  83  locks  and  18 
aqueducts  of  various  extent.  The  locks  are  construct 
ed  in  the  most  durable  manner  of  stone  laid  in  water 
lime,  and  are  90  feet  in  length,  and  15  feet  in  width. 
The  whole  rise  and  fall  of  lockage  is  688  feet ;  and  the 
height  of  Lake  Erie  above  the  Hudson  568  feet.  The 
principal  aqueducts  arc,  one  crossing  the  Genesee  river 
at  Rochester,  804  feet  in  length  ;  one  crossing  the  Mo 
hawk  at  Little  Falls,  supported  by  3  arches,  the  centre 
of  70  feet,  and  those  on  each  side  of  50  feet  chord ;  and 
two  crossing  the  Mohawk  river  near  Alexander's  bridge, 
one  of  which  is  748  feet  and  the  other  1188  feet  in 
length.  The  whole  workmanship  evinces  a  degree  of 
beauty  and  proportion  consistent  with  the  greatest 


ERIE   CANAL.  235 

strength.  In  many  places  the  sides  of  the  canal  are 
either  paved  with  small  stone  or  covered  with  thick 
grass,  designed  to  prevent  the  crumbling  of  the  soil  by 
the  motion  of  the  water.  To  the  main  canal  are  a 
number  of  side  cuts  or  lateral  canals :  one  opposite 
Troy,  connecting  with  the  Hudson  ;  one  at  Syracuse, 
a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  to  Salina  ;  one  from  Syra 
cuse,  to  Oswego,  38  miles  in  length ;  one  at  Orville  ; 
one  at  Chitteningo  ;  one  at  Montezuma,  extending  to 
the  Cayuga  lake,  5  miles,  and  from  thence  to  the  Sen 
eca  lake  at  Geneva,  a  distance  of  15  miles ;  and  one  at 
Rochester  of  two  miles  in  length,  which  serves  the 
double  purpose  of  a  navigable  feeder,  and  a  mean  of 
communication  for  boats  between  the  canal  and  the 
Genesee  river.  It  is  highly  probable  that  these  lateral 
cuts  will  increase  in  ratio  with  the  enterprize  of  the  nu 
merous  adjacent  villages  scattered  along  the  line  of  the 
main  canal.  From  these  and  various  other  improve 
ments  which  public  enterprize  has  already  suggested, 
the  state  of  New- York  is  destined  to  reap  a  full  harvest 
of  prosperity.  If  her  national  glory  has  already  dawn 
ed  with  so  much  lustre,  what  will  be  its  meridian  splen 
dor — when  her  magnificent  improvements,  uniting  with 
her  own  the  navigable  waters  of  her  sister  states,  shall 
serve  as  so  many  ligaments  to  bind  the  confederacy  in 
the  indissoluble  bonds  of  friendship  and  interest.  The 
debt  contracted  for  the  Champlain  and  Erie  canals, 
amounted  on  the  1st  of  January,  1826,  to  $9,108,269, 
including  $1,621,274,  expended  in  the  construction  of 
feeders,  lateral  canals,  dams,  £c.  and  in  the  payment 
of  salaries  of  the  commissioners  and  other  officers  en 
gaged  in  the  work.  The  revenue  from  the  tolls  of  both 


236  ERIE  CANAL. 

canals,  in  1822,  amounted  to  $64,071  ;  in  1823,  to 
$151,099;  in  1824,  to  $289,320;  in  1825,  to  $500,000; 
in  1826,  to  $675,190;  in  1827,  to  $859,058;  and  in 
1828,  to  $833,000.  On  the  1st  of  Jan.  1830,  the  canal 
debt,  including  the  expenses  of  constructing  the  Oswe- 
go  and  Cayuga  and  Seneca  canals,  and  exclusive  of  the 
extinguishments  which  had  been  made,  amounted  to 
$7,706,013;  and  the  tolls  received  for  the  preceding 
year,  to  the  sum  of  $816,302,76— the  Oswcgo  and  Sen 
eca  canals  not  having  furnished  a  revenue  equal  to  the 
interest  of  their  cost  and  the  expense  of  their  repairs. 
To  the  payment  of  the  interest  and  principal  of  the  ca 
nal  debt,  is  appropriated  not  only  the  tolls,  but  also  the 
duties  on  salt  and  auctions,  with  other  sources  of  in 
come,  which  amounted,  in  1829,  to  $376,77 — making 
the  total  receipts  of  that  year,  including  tolls,  $1,193,- 
979. 

CANAL  PASSAGE. 

Of  the  sources  of  gratification  to  the  tourist,  during 
the  canal  passage,  that  of  novelty  is  perhaps  the  great 
est.  To  the  man  of  pleasure,  it  will  be  considered,  per 
haps,  too  little  diversified  with  incident  to  be  repeated  ; 
but  to  the  man  of  business  this  objection  will  probably 
yield  to  the  united  considerations  of  the  convenience 
and  safety  of  this  mode  of  conveyance.  The  passage 
boats  are  generally  constructed  80  feet  in  length  and 
14  feet  in  width,  and  draw  from  1  to  2  feet  of  water. 
The  cabin  occupies  the  whole  length  of  the  deck,  ex 
cepting  about  8  or  10  feet  reserved  at  one  end  for  the 
cook,  and  4  or  6  feet  at  the  other  end  for  the  pilot. 
The  intermediate  space  is  occupied  as  a  cabin,  con 
structed  from  the  deck  into  a  room  8  feet  in  height, 


CANAL  ROUTE. 


237 


with  single  births  on  each  side,  and  calculated  to  ac 
commodate  30  persons.  The  boats  are  drawn  by  three 
horses,  one  before  the  other,  and  move  day  and  night, 
at  the  rate  of  4  miles  an  hour.  Relays  are  furnished 
every  8  or  10  miles.  Boats  with  commodities  proceed 
at  the  rate  of  55  miles  in  24  hours  ;  and  boats  with  pas 
sengers  (including  delays)  about  85  miles  in  the  same 
time. 

CANAL  ROUTE. 

The  several  places  and  distances,  as  they  occur  on 
the  canal  route  from  Albany  to  Buffalo  are  as  follows  : 

DISTANCE    FROM 


I  I  1  1 

^  <  p  tf  PQ 

Albany,  .................     0  0  110  270  363 

Troy,  ...................     7  7  103  263  356 

Junction,  ................     2  9  101  261  354 

Schenectady,  .............  21  30  80  240  333 

Amsterdam,  ..............  16  46  64  224  317 

Schoharie  Creek,  ..........     7  53  57  217  310 

Caughnawaga,  ...........     4  57  53  213  306 

Spraker's  Basin  ...........     9  66  44  204  297 

Canajoharie,  .............     3  69  41  201  294 

Bowman's  Creek,  .........     3  72  38  198  291 

Little  Falls,  ..............  16  88  22  182  275 

Herkimer,  ...............     7  95  15  175  268 

Frankfort,  ...............     5  100  10  170  263 

Utica,  ...................   10  110  0  160  253 

Whitesboro',  .............     4  114  4  156  249 

Oriskany,  ................     3  117  7  153  246 

Rome,  ...................     8  125  15  145  238 

Smith's,  .................     7  132  22  138  231 

Loomis'  .................     6  138  28  132  225 

Oneida  Creek,  ............     3  141  31  129  222 


CANAL   ROUTE. 

DISTANCE   FROM 
O 
Sj 

U 


fc       ,3 


- 

J    a    -S 

"      - 


Canistota,  ...............  5  146  36  124  217 

New  Boston,  .............  4  150  40  120  213 

Chitteningo,  .............  4  154  44  116  209 

Manlius,  .................  8  162  52  108  201 

Orville,  .........  .  ........  3  165  55  105  198 

Syracuse,  ................  6  171  61  99  192 

Geddes,  .................  2  173  63  97  190 

Nine-Mile  Creek,  .........  6  179  69  91  184 

Canton,  .......  .  .........  6  185  75  85  178 

Jordan,  ..................  6  191  81  79  172 

Weed's  Basin,  ............  6  197  87  73  166 

Port  Bryon,  ..............  3  200  90  70  163 

Montezuma,  (Lakeport,)  ..  6  206  96  64  157 

Clyde,  ...................  11  217  107  53  146 

Lyons,  ..................  9  226  116  44  137 

Newark,  .................  7  233  123  37  130 

Palmyra,  ................  8  241  131  29  122 

Fullom's  Basin,  ...........  13  254  144  16  109 

Pittsford,  ................  6  2GO  150  10  103 

Rochester,  ...............  10  270  160  0  93 

Ogden,  ..................  12  282  172  12  81 

Adams'  Basin,  ............  3  285  175  15  78 

Brockport,  ...............  5  290  180  20  73 

Holley,  ..................  5  295  185  25  68 

Newport,  ................  JO  305  195  35  58 

Portville,  .................  4  309  199  39  54 

Oak  Orchard,  .............  5  314  204  44  49 

Middleport,  ..............  7  321  211  53  42 

Lockport,  ................  12  333  223  63  30 

Pendleton,  ...............  7  340  230  70  23 

Tonawanda,  .............  12  352  242  82  11 

Black  Rock,  ..............  8  360  250  90  3 

Buffalo,  ..................  3  363  253  93  0 


SCHEI*£CTADY.  239 

SCHENECTADY, 

Is  15  miles  from  Albany,  and  22  from  Saratoga 
Springs ;  and  can  be  reached  twice  a  day  by  stage  from 
either  of  those  places.*  The  city  is  situated  on  the 
Mohawk,  a  broad  and  beautiful  river,  which  forms  its 
northern  boundary.  It  was  burnt  by  the  Indians  in 
1690,  and  suffered  a  considerable  conflagration  in  1819, 
since  which  event  the  antique  appearance  of  the  city 
has  been  much  improved  by  the  introduction  of  mod 
ern  architecture.  The  principal  Hotel  is  kept  by  Mr. 
Davis,  (formerly  Given's,)  in  the  south-east  part  of  the 
city  and  within  a  few  rods  of  the  Erie  canal.  The 
building  is  constructed  of  brick,  50  feet  front,  and  with 
its  wing,  2  stories  high,  exclusive  of  the  basement  sto 
ry,  extends  back  150  feet.  The  main  building  is  3  sto 
ries  in  height,  besides  an  attic  story,  containing  an 
apartment  for  a  billiard  room.  From  this  elevated  spot 
a  view  may  be  had  of  the  city  and  its  environs,  of  the 
Mohawk  and  of  the  canal  for  some  distance,  and  of 
the  rich  and  variegated  landscape  which  spreads  on 
the  south  and  west  of  the  city.  The  Hotel  can  accom 
modate  130  guests.  It  is  furnished  throughout  in  a 
very  superior  style,  and  guests  receive  every  attention 
and  accommodation  that  can  contribute  to  their  conve 
nience  and  amusement.  UNION  COLLEGE  is  built  on 
an  eminence,  which  overlooks  the  city  and  the  Mo 
hawk  for  a  number  of  miles.  The  college  consists  at 
present  of  two  brick  edifices,  but  the  plan  includes  a 


*  Owing  to  the  numerous  locks  between  Albany  and 
Schenectady,  no  packet  boats  run  between  the  two 
cities.  v2 


240  CANAL  ROUTE — 9COHARIE  CREEK. 

chapel  and  other  buildings  hereafter  to  be  erected,  in 
the  rear,  and  between  those  already  constructed.  At 
this  institution  about  200  students  are  educated  annu 
ally.  The  expense  per  annum  is  $130.  In  numbers  and 
respectability  Union  College  may  be  ranked  among  the 
most  favored  seminaries  in  our  country.  A  handsome 
bridge  has  been  constructed  across  the  Mohawk,  at 
the  west  end  of  this  city.  The  bridge  is  997  feet  in 
length,  and  is  passed  by  the  stage  on  its  route  to  Utica, 
Daily  post  coaches,  connected  with  the  western  line 
of  stages,  leave  Schenectady  every  morning  and  arrive 
at  Utica  the  same  day.  By  the  present  arrangement, 
boats  leave  Schenectady  every  morning  and  evening, 
reaching  Utica  in  24  hours,  and  Buffalo  in  4  clays.  An 
evening  boat  is  considered  preferable,  as  it  passes  Little 
Falls,  the  most  interesting  part  of  the  canal  between 
Schenectady  and  Utica,  by  day-light ;  and  gives  an 
opportunity  of  remaining  one  night  in  Utica,  from 
whence  a  canal  boat  or  stage  may  be  taken  the  next 
morning.  The  price  of  conveyance  in  the  packet  boats 
is  3  cents  per  mile,  meals  extra, 

AMSTERDAM,  16  miles  west  of  Schenectady,  is  situa 
ted  on  the  Mohawk  turnpike,  near  the  river.  It  has 
a  post  office,  a  church,  and  about  50  dwellings  and 
stores.  A  bridge  crosses  the  Mohawk  at  this  place. 
The  canal  with  its  embankments  made  up  from  the 
river  for  5  or  6  miles  in  extent,  is  opposite  the  village, 
on  the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk. 

SCHOHAUIB  CREEK,  7  miles.  The  ruins  of  Fort  Hun 
ter,  at  the  mouth  of  this  creek,  are  still  visible.  It  was 
an  important  post  during  the  early  wars  of  this  country. 


CANAL  nOUTB — MOHAWK  CASTLE.  Ml 

A  chapel  built  by  Queen  Anne  for  the  Indians,  is  also 
to  be  seen  near  this  place,  called  Queen  Jlnne's  Chapel. 
The  canal  crosses  the  creek,  by  means  of  a  dam  and 
guard  lock. 

CAUGHNAWAGA,  4  miles.     (See  p.  201.) 
ANTHONY'S  NOSE,  8  miles.    This  is  a  very  abrupt 
and  prominent  hill  on  the  south  side  of  the  canal,  hav- 
ving  on  its  top  a  cavern,  which  extends  to  a  great 
depth. 

CANAJOHARIE,  5  miles.     (See  p.  201.) 
FORT  PLAIN,  4  miles.     (See  p.  201.) 
EAST  CANADA  CREEK,  4  miles.    This  creek  enters 
the  Mohawk  on  the  north  side  ;  near  which,  Capt.  But 
ler  was  killed  by  the  Indians  soon  after  his  wanton  des 
truction  of  the  village  of  Cherry  Valley. 

MOHAWK  CASTLE,  2  miles.  The  ruins  of  an  old  chap 
el  erected  for  the  use  of  the  Mohawk  Indians  are  still 
visible  at  this  place,  and  also  some  slight  remains  of 
their  once  formidable  fortifications. 

Three  miles  farther,  as  the  boat  approaches  Little 
Falls,  the  scenery  becomes  highly  picturesque  and  sub 
lime.  On  either  side  are  lofty  and  apparently  inacces 
sible  mountains,  affording  a  narrow  pass  for  the  road, 
river  and  canal.  Indeed,  the  latter,  for  a  considerable 
distance,  is  formed  by  an  excavation  in  the  side  of  the 
mountain,  having  a  wall  of  20  or  30  feet  to  support  its 
northern  embankment.  The  river  here,  for  two  or 
three  miles  in  extent,  descends  with  much  rapidity  over 
a  rocky  and  uneven  bottom,  and  exhibits,  in  some  in 
stances,  an  appearance  not  unlike  the  rapids  above  the 
falls  of  the  Niagara, 


242         CANAL  ROUTE — ORISKANY. 

LITTLE  FALLS,  5  miles  from  Mohawk  Castle.  (See 
p.  202.) 

After  leaving  Little  Falls,  the  canal  enters  a  smooth 
and  delightful  level,  including  what  are  called  the  Ger 
man  Flats,  passing  near  the  village  of  HERKIMER,  7 
miles  from  the  Falls,  (see  p.  205 ;)  from  thence  to 
FRANKFORT,  5  miles  j  and  from  thence  to  UTICA,  10 
miles. 

(For  a  description  of  Utica  and  Trenton  Falls,  see  page 
206  to  215.) 

WHITESBOROUGH,  4  miles  north-west  of  Utica,  is  a 
beautiful  and  wealthy  village,  located  on  a  rich  and  fer 
tile  plain.  The  principal  and  most  elegant  street  is  a 
short  distance  from,  and  runs  parallel  with  the  canal ; 
from  which,  through  branches  of  trees  half  enshroud 
ing  the  village,  may  be  seen  several  elegant  country 
seats.  It  may  be  considered,  indeed  as  better  adapted 
for  a  country  residence,  than  a  place  of  business.  At 
the  eastern  extremity  of  the  village  is  shown  the  first 
framed  house  erected  in  the  county  of  Oneida  ;  half  a 
mile  from  which,  the  canal  passes  over  the  Sauquait 
creek.  Within  1 1  miles  of  the  canal,  on  this  creek, 
there  are  84  mills  of  various  descriptions,  including  sev 
eral  factories,  some  of  which  cost  rising  of  $120,000. 
The  York  mills,  or  cotton  factories,  half  a  mile  south 
of  the  canal,  are  considered  among  the  best  in  the  state, 
and  constitute  of  themselves,  with  the  houses  for  labor 
ers,  a  compact  village. 

ORISKANY,  3  miles  from  Whitesborough,  is  a  nourish 
ing  village  of  70  or  80  houses.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Oriskany  creek,  which  here  enters  the  canal  as  a  fee 
der. 


CANAL  ROUTE — ROME.  243 

ROME,  8  miles.  This  is  a  half  shire  town  of  the  coun 
ty  of  Oneida,  contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  and  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  old  canal, 
connecting  Wood  creek  with  the  Mohawk,  and  .about 
half  a  mile  north  of  the  Erie  canal.  It  contains  between 
100  and  150  houses,  principally  located  on  one  street, 
running  east  and  west.  The  ruins  of  Fort  Stanwix, 
near  the  village,  between  Wood  creek  and  the  Mohawk, 
are  still  visible.  This  fort  was  erected  in  1758  by  the 
British,  was  suffered  to  decay,  and  was  afterwards  re 
built  by  the  Americans  during  the  revolution.  15  or 
1800  men,  including  Indians,  were  sent  from  Mont 
real  by  Burgoyne,  in  1777,  to  beseige  the  Fort.  They 
were  commanded  by  the  Baron  St.  Leger.  Gen.  Her- 
kimer,  commandant  of  the  militia  of  Tryon  county, 
(embracing  the  present  counties  of  Montgomery  and 
Herkimcr,)  was  sent  against  them  with  about  800  men. 
On  meeting  a  detachmeut  of  Lcger's  forces,  the  militia 
mostly  fled  on  the  first  fire.  A  few,  however,  remain 
ed  and  fought  by  the  side  of  Gen.  H.  who  was  mortal 
ly  wounded  in  the  road  between  Whitestown  and  Rome. 
The  Americans  lost  160  killed  and  240  wounded.  The 
fort,  which  was  commanded  by  Col.  Gansevoort,  was 
afterwards  assaulted  by  Leger's  army  ;  but  they  were 
driven  off  by  a  sortie,  directed  by  Col.  Willet,  and  their 
camp  plundered.  Subsequently,  the  fort  was  summon 
ed  to  surrender ;  but  through  a  stratagem  of  Gen.  Ar 
nold,  who  sent  two  emissaries  from  the  camp  at  Still- 
water,  an  Indian  and  a  white  man,  to  inform  Leger  of 
the  approach  of  a  powerful  American  army  for  the  re 
lief  of  the  bcsciged,  he  ordered  a  precipitate  retreat  to 
the  Oneida  lake,  leaving  all  his  baggage  behind. 


244         CANAL  ROUTE — SYRACUSE. 

An  arsenal  belonging  to  the  U.  S.  is  situate  about 
half  a  mile  west  of  the  village  and  300  yards  north  of 
the  canal. 

16  miles  from  Rome  the  canal  crosses  the  ONEIDA 
CREEK  ;  and  5  miles  farther  it  passes  through  the  new 
and  pleasant  village  of  CANISTOTA,  half  a  mile  north  of 
the  western  turnpike.  NEW  BOSTON  is  4  miles  farther  ; 
from  which  to 

CHITTENINGO  is  4  miles.  A  navigable  feeder  enters 
the  canal  at  this  place.  It  is  taken  from  the  Chitte- 
ningo  creek  at  the  village  of  that  name,  a  mile  and  a 
half  distant.  (Seep.  217.)  From  Chitteningo  to  Man- 
lius  (seep.  218)  is  Smiles;  from  thence  to  Orville  3  ;* 
and  from  thence  6  miles  to 

SYRACUSE.  The  appearance  of  this  village  as  you 
approach  it,  is  very  handsome.  It  is  built  on  both  sides 
of  the  canal,  and  the  stores  and  warehouses  are  sub 
stantial  and  lofty.  On  the  left  as  you  come  up  the  ca 
nal,  is  one  of  the  most  splendid  Hotels  in  the  state.  It 
is  of  brick  four  or  five  stories  high,  and  surrounded 
with  piazzas.  There  are  also  nearly  400  dwellings  and 
stores,  and  every  thing  has  the  appearance  of  a  com 
mercial  bustling  town.  This  thriving  village  owes  its 
importance  principally  to  the  immense  quantity  of  salt 
produced  in  its  neighborhood,  the  whole  adjacent  coun 
try  being  impregnated  with  it,  and  springs  from  which 
immense  quantities  are  manufactured  rising  in  vari- 


*At  this  place  are  inexhaustible  beds  of  water  lime, 
used  for  hydraulic  cement ;  large  quantities  of  which 
are  annually  exported. 


SALIKA.  245 

ous  directions.  A  little  west  of  Syracuse,  a  plain  of 
300  acres  is  nearly  covered  with  vats  for  the  manufac 
ture  of  salt  by  solar  evaporation.  The  water  is  brought 
in  logs  from  the  great  spring  at  Salina,  one  mile  dis 
tant,  and  supplies,  with  very  little  attention,  the  vari 
ous  ranges  of  vats.  A  light  roof  is  constructed  to  each 
vat,  which  can  be  shoved  off  or  on  at  pleasure,  to  per 
mit  the  rays  of  the  sun  to  act  upon  the  water,  or  to 
prevent  the  dampness  of  the  atmosphere  from  commin 
gling  therewith.  The  salt  is  taken  out  of  these  vats 
twice  or  three  times  during  the  warm  season,  and  re 
moved  to  store  houses  ;  from  whence  it  is  conveyed  in 
barrels  to  the  canal  for  transportation. 

SALINA  is  one  and  a  half  mile  north  of  Syracuse,  and 
though  not  on  the  usually  travelled  route  to  the  west, 
should  be  visited  for  the  purpose  of  examining  the  prin 
cipal  spring,  and  the  various  salt  establishments  con 
nected  therewith.  A  packet  constantly  plies  between 
the  villages  on  a  lateral  canal,  affording  an  easy  and 
pleasant  mode  of  conveyance. 

The  spring  at  Salina  was  first  discovered  by  the  In 
dians  many  years  since,  by  being  the  resort  of  deer  and 
other  animals.  The  first  white  settlers  were  in  the 
habit  of  boiling  the  water  in  small  vessels  for  domestic 
purposes.  Since  then,  the  spring  has  been  excavated 
to  a  very  considerable  depth,  and  affords  the  strongest 
saline  water  yet  discovered  in  the  world,  40  gallons 
yielding  about  a  bushel  of  pure  salt.  The  water  is  for 
ced  up  to  the  top  of  an  adjoining  hill  by  a  powerful  hy- 
draulian  driven  by  the  suplus  waters  from  the  Oswego 
canal,  which  commences  at  this  place.  The  salt  wa- 


246 


SALINA. 


tcr  is  in  this  way  conveyed  85  feet  above  the  canal  to 
a  large  reservoir,  into  which  it  is  discharged  at  the  rate 
of  300  gallons  per  minute.  It  is  hence  carried  to  the 
different  factories  in  Salina  and  Syracuse.  Of  these 
there  are  about  100  at  Salina  and  23  at  Syracuse ; 
there  are  also  26  at  Liverpool,  about  6  miles  north-west 
of  Salina,  and  25  at  Geddesburgh,  2  miles  west  of  Sy 
racuse.  The  works  and  springs  all  belong  to  the  state, 
to  which  imposts  are  payable  to  the  amount  of  63  cents 
per  barrel  of  5  bushels,*  and  every  manufacturer  pays 
two  cents  per  bushel  for  the  use  of  the  water.  The 
water  is  conveyed  from  the  resei  voir  to  the  different 
manufactories  and  evaporating  fields,  by  means  of 
wooden  pipes.  The  salt  is  manufactured  generally  by 
boiling  and  evaporation.  There  are,  however,  two  es 
tablishments  in  which  it  is  made  in  large  wooden  vats 
by  means  of  hot  air  passing  through  them  in  large  me- 
talic  pipes.  The  manufactories  contain  from  15  to  40 
potash  kettles,  under  each  of  which  a  constant  fire  is 
kept  up,  so  that  the  water  may  not  cease  to  boil.  The 
first  deposit  of  the  water  is  thrown  away.  The  pure 
salt  soon  after  makes  its  appearance,  and  is  refined  for 
the  table  by  means  of  blood,  milk,  rosin,  &c.  The 
springs  are  considered  as  inexhaustible.  In  1828, 
there  were  1,160,888  bushels  inspected  ;  and  in  1829, 
1,291,820  bushels ;  showing  an  increase  of  130,932 
bushels.  Of  this,  745,741  bushels  were  inspected  at 
Salina,  229,317  at  Syracuse,  187,540  at  Liverpool,  and 
129,222  at  Geddes. 


*  These  duties  are  applied  by  the  constitution  of  the 
state  towards  the  extinguishment  of  the  canal  debt. 


CANAL  ROUTE — WEEDJS  BASIN.  247 

Salina  is  a  flourishing  village;  but  of  less  magni 
tude  than  Syracuse ;  though  from  the  rapidly  increas 
ing  growth  of  both,  it  is  not  improbable  that  they  will 
ere  long  become  a  continuous  town.  A  fine  view  of 
the  Onondaga  Lake,  about  a  mile  distant,  is  had  from 
the  place.  It  is  six  miles  long  and  two  broad.  At  its 
north  western  extremity  is  seen  the  pleasant  village  of 
Liverpool,  of  recent  origin,  but  promising  to  become  a 
place  of  some  importance.  Gypsum  and  petrifactions 
are  found  in  great  quantities  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lake. 

The  OSWEGO  CANAL,  from  the  Onondaga  lake  to 
Lake  Ontario  at  Oswego,  is  38  miles  long,  including  20 
miles  of  the  Oswego  river,  on  which  are  several  locks 
and  dams.  The  whole  lockage  of  the  canal  and  river  is 
123  feet. 

GEDDES,  2  miles  by  canal,  from  Syracuse,  is  becom 
ing  a  place  of  some  importance,  in  consequence  of  the 
recent  discovery  of  several  valuable  salt  springs.  They 
are  mostly  within  a  few  rods  of  the  canal,  as  well  as 
numerous  establishments  for  the  manufacture  of  salt. 
A  short  distance  west  of  the  village,  a  fine  prospect  is 
had  of  the  Onondaga  lake  and  the  villages  of  Liverpool 
and  Salina,  on  its  northern  and  eastern  shores. 

NINE  MILE  CREEK,  6  miles  from  Geddes.  It  is  a 
stream  of  some  magnitude,  and  is  crossed  by  the  canal, 
over  two  arches. 

CANTON,  a  small  village,  6  miles. 

JORDAN,  6  miles.  A  short  distance  east  of  the  village, 
the  canal  crosses  the  Jordan  creek. 

WEED'S  BASIN,  6  miles.     A  thriving  village  of  50  or 
60  houses.     A  stage  can  be  taken  here  daily  for  Auburn, 
7  miles  south.     (See  p.  221.) 
w 


248        CANAL  ROUTE — MONTEZUMA, 

PORT  BYRON,  3  miles.  The  canal  here  crosses  the 
Owasco  creek,  a  stream  issuing  from  a  lake  of  that 
name  2  miles  south  of  Auburn.  The  state  prison  is 
erected  on  the  bank  of  this  creek,  the  waters  of  which 
are  used  for  propelling  the  machinery. 

Five  miles  farther  are  the  Montezuma  salt  works, 
about  1-4  of  a  mile  north  of  the  canal,  with  a  lateral  cut 
leading  thereto ;  one  mile  from  which  is  the  small  vil 
lage  of 

MONTEZUMA.  The  western  section  of  the  canal 
(contradistinguished  from  the  middle  and  eastern  sec 
tions)  commences  at  this  place.  From  Utica  to  Mon 
tezuma  the  mean  descent  of  the  canal  is4r45  feet ;  and 
there  are  9  locks,  ascending  and  descending.  From 
Montezuma  to  Lockport  the  ascent  is  185  feet,  and  the 
number  of  intervening  locks  21.  The  waters  of  the 
canal  at  Montezuma  are  remarkably  pure  and  chrysta- 
line  in  their  appearance,  not  unfrequently  exhibiting 
large  quantities  of  fish  at  their  bottom. 

One  mile  from  Montezuma,  the  canal  enters  the 
Montezuma  marshes,  3  miles  in  extent.  These  marsh 
es  are  formed  by  the  outlets  of  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca 
lakes,  and  exhibit  a  most  dreary,  desolate  and  stagnant 
appearance.  The  water  is  generally  from  4  to  8  feet 
deep,  and  the  bottom  covered  with  long  grass,  the  usual 
growth  of  swamps,  extending  frequently  to  the  surface. 
A  long  bridge  is  used  for  a  tow  path  over  a  part  of  these 
marshes.  Shortly  after  leaving  them,  the  canal  crosses 
and  unites  with  the  outlet  of  the  Canandaigua  lake,  a 
sluggish  stream,  which,  with  the  outlets  of  Cayuga  and 
Seneca,  soon  form  the  Seneca  river,  which  enters  lake 
Ontario  at  Oswego. 


CANAL  ROUTE — PITTSFORD.  249 

CLYDE,  11  miles  from  Montezuma,  is  a  flourishing 
village,  containing  glass  works.  From  thence  to  LY 
ONS,  a  handsome  village,  is  9  miles ;  and  from  thence 
to  NEWARK  7  miles. 

PALMYRA,  8  miles  from  Newark,  is  a  thriving  village 
in  Wayne  county.  It  is  built  chiefly  on  a  wide  street 
along  the  south  bank  of  the  canal,  and  is  a  place  of 
considerable  trade.  Mud  creek  runs  eastward,  about 
40  rods  north  of  the  main  street,  and  the  canal  passes 
between  the  creek  and  the  street.  There  are  several 
factories  and  mills  on  this  creek.  Palmyra  and  Port 
Gibson  are  landing  places  for  goods  designed  for  Can- 
andaigua. 

FULLOM'S  BASIN,  13  miles.  From  this  place  to  Roch 
ester,  by  canal,  is  16  miles  ;  while  the  distance  by  land 
is  but  7  1-2.  Travellers,  accordingly,  who  have  seen 
the  Great  Embankment  over  the  Irondequoit  creek,  fre 
quently  take  a  stage,  to  shorten  the  excursion ;  but 
those  who  have  never  passed  over  this  artificial  work, 
should  continue  on  the  canal  route.  The  embankment 
is  reached  in  about  4  miles  from  Fullom's  Basin,  and  is 
continued  for  nearly  two  miles  at  an  average  height  of 
about  70  feet.  The  novelty  of  a  passage  at  so  great 
an  elevation,  is  much  increased  in  the  fine  prospect  af 
forded  of  the  surrounding  country.  Two  miles  from 
the  embankment,  is  the  handsome  village  of 

PITTSFORD,  containing  80  or  90  houses  and  several 
stores  ;  and  10  miles  farther,  is  the  flourishing  and  im 
portant  village  of 


250        CANAL  ROUTE — ROCHESTER. 

ROCHESTER. 

It  is  situated  on  the  east  and  west  side  of  the  Gene- 
see  river,  which,  at  this  place,  is  50  yards  wide,  and  is 
crossed  by  2  substantial  bridges  within  the  limits  of  the 
village.  On  the  north  side  of  the  lower  bridge,  the  lo 
cal  distinctions  of  East  and  West  Rochester  have  been 
in  a  measure  annihilated,  by  the  erection  of  the  Mar 
ket  and  Exchange  buildings  over  the  Genesee,  making 
the  twain  a  continued  village.  Within  its  limits  are 
two  of  the  six  falls  on  the  river :  the  upper  a  small  fall 
of  12  feet  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  and  immediately 
above  the  canal  aqueduct ;  and  the  other  the  great  fall 
of  97  feet,  about  80  rods  below.  From  a  point  of  rock 
about  the  centre  of  these  falls,  at  the  foot  of  a  small  isl 
and,  the  celebrated  Sam  Patch  made  his  last  and  fatal 
jump,  in  the  autumn  of  1829.  From  a  scaffold  elevated 
25  feet  above  the  table  rock,  making  the  entire  height 
125  feet,  he  fearlessly  and  carelessly  precipitated  him 
self  into  the  abyss  beneath.  He  did  not  rise  at  that 
time  to  the  surface  ;  nor  was  his  body  found  until  the 
following  spring,  when  it  was  discovered  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Genesee  river,  6  miles  below.  His  arms  wero 
probably  dislocated  at  the  first  shock,  as  he  carried  them 
horizontally  ;  and  the  depth  of  water  being  only  fifteen 
and  a  half  feet,  it  is  supposed  that  he  was  killed  by 
striking  on  the  rocky  bottom.  He  was  a  little  less 
than  three  seconds  in  falling,  and  struck  the  surface 
with  a  force  of  about  8000  Ibs. 

From  a  complete  wilderness,  Rochester  has  been  re 
deemed  in  the  comparatively  short  period  of  18  years, 
the  first  settlement  having  been  made  in  1812.  Its  sit 
uation  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  canal,  and  only 


CANAL  ROUTE ROCHESTER.        251 

7  miles  from  Lake  Ontario,  with  a  ship  navigation  with 
in  two  miles  of  the  town,  enables  its  inhabitants  to  se 
lect  a  market  either  at  New- York,  Quebec,  or  on  the 
borders  of  the  great  western  lakes ;  and  the  many  oth 
er  natural  advantages  which  it  enjoys  for  trade  and 
manufactures,  destines  it  to  become  one  of  the  most 
important  places  in  the  interior  of  the  state.  The  pop 
ulation  of  Rochester  at  the  census  taken  in  the  fall  of 
1827,  was  10,813,  making  an  increase  of  more  than 
3,000  within  the  preceding  year ;  and  the  number  of 
buildings  was  1474,  352  of  which  had  been  built  the 
season  previous.  Its  population  in  1829  was  estimated 
at  13,000,  and  its  number  of  buildings  at  near  2000. 
The  Erie  canal  strikes  the  river  in  the  south  part  of  the 
village,  and  after  following  the  eastern  bank  for  half  a 
mile,  crosses  the  river  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  in 
a  splendid  aqueduct,  which  cost  rising  of  $80,000.  This 
aqueduct  is  constructed  of  red  free  stone,  and  from  the 
eastern  extremity  of  its  parapet  walls  to  the  western 
termination,  is  804  feet  long.  It  is  built  on  eleven 
arches ;  one  of  26,  one  of  30,  and  nine  of  50  feet  chord, 
under  which  water  passes  for  flouring  mills  and  other 
hydraulic  establishments.  The  piers,  which  are  placed 
on  solid  rock,  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  are  4  1-2,  and 
the  arches  resting  thereon  1 1  feet  high.  On  the  north 
wall,  which  is  of  sufficient  thickness  for  the  towing 
path,  is  an  iron  railing ;  and  at  the  west  end,  the  whole 
is  terminated  by  a  highway  and  towing  path  bridge,  of 
the  most  solid  and  elegant  workmanship.  The  canal 
is  supplied  by  a  navigable  feeder  from  the  Genesee, 
through  which  boats  may  ente -  and  ascend  the  river 
from  70  to  90  miles.  The  height  of  the  canal  at  Roch- 
w2 


252        CANAL  ROUTE — ROCHESTER. 

ester  above  the  tide  waters  of  the  Hudson  is  501  feet ; , 
above  Lake  Ontario,  270  feet ;  and  below  Lake  Erie,  " 
64  feet. 

Among  the  public  buildings  in  the  village,  are  a  court 
house,  jail,  11  churches,  2  markets,  2  banks  and  a 
museum,  together  with  two  valuable  institutions,  the 
Franklin  Institute  and  Atheneum.  The  Globe  build 
ings,  a  majestic  pile,  built  of  the  most  durable  materi 
als,  and  rising  from  the  water's  edge,  are  5  stories,  ex 
clusive  of  attics,  with  between  130  and  140  apartments 
suitable  for  workshops,  (having  a  sufficient  water  pow 
er  for  each,)  and  several  stores.  The  principal  public 
houses  are  the  Rochester  House,  Clinton  House,  Eagle 
Tavern,  Mansion  House  and  Arcade  House.  There 
are  also  two  daily  and  several  weekly  newspapers. 

Within  the  limits  of  the  village  are  1 1  flouring  mills, 
containing  53  run  of  stones,  capable  of  manufacturing 
2500  bushels  of  flour  and  consuming  more  than  12,000 
bushels  of  wheat  every  24  hours.  Some  of  the  mills 
are  on  a  scale  of  magnitude  perhaps  not  equalled  in  the 
world.  One  of  them  contains  more  than  four  acres  of 
flooring,  and  all  are  considered  unrivalled  in  the  perfec 
tion  of  their  machinery.  The  immense  water  power  at 
this  place  opens  a  wonderful  field  for  labor  saving  ma 
chinery,  among  which  are  many  ingenious  operations, 
well  worthy  the  inspection  of  the  curious  in  those  mat 
ters. 

The  ARCADE,  erected  the  past  year,  (1829,)  is  100 
feet  in  front,  135  feet  in  depth,  and  4  stories  high,  ex 
clusive  of  the  attic  and  basement.  It  has  6  stores  in 
front,  with  a  large  opening  for  a  passage  to  the  Jlrcade, 
where  the  post  office,  atheneum,  arcade  house,  and  a 


CANAL  ROUTE HOC  HESTER.         253 

variety  of  offices  are  located.  From  the  centre  arises 
an  observatory  in  the  form  of  a  Chinese  Pagoda,  which 
overlooks  the  surrounding  country  ;  and  in  clear  weath 
er  the  lake  can  be  seen  like  a  strip  of  blue  cloud  in  the 
horizon.  The  front  of  this  edifice  is  stuccoed,  in  imita 
tion  of  marble,  except  the  first  story,  which  is  of  the 
Oswego  red  free  stone. 

The  geological  structure  of  this  region  can  be  easily 
traced,  and  is  beautifully  illustrated  in  the  banks  of  the 
river,  which  are  from  100  to  200  feet  in  height,  with  a 
descent  of  270  feet  to  the  lake.  At  Carthage,  two  miles 
below,  are  a  great  variety  of  petrefactions,  which  have 
been  blasted  from  the  rocks  in  forming  a  canal  for  mill 
privileges.  Seven  miles  from  Rochester,  a  part  of  the 
way  on  the  ridge  road,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  is 
Irondequoit  bay,  with  a  high  sand  ridge  running  across 
it,  except  about  two  rods,  where  there  is  a  channel ; 
the  shore  is  fine  and  sandy,  and  equals  any  in  Ameri 
ca  for  bathing.  The  bay  is  also  celebrated  for  fishing 
and  fowling. 

STAGES  leave  Rochester  daily,  by  way  of  Palmyra, 
Weed's  Basin,  Syracuse,  Cherry  Valley  and  Schoharie 
for  Jllbany,  217  miles  ;  and  by  way  of  Canandaigua, 
Geneva,  Auburn,  Skaneateles,  Onondaga,  Utica,  Little 
Falls  and  Schenectady,  for  .Albany,  237  miles.  They 
also  leave  daily,  by  way  of  Lewiston  (passing  over  the 
ridge  road)  and  Niagara  Falls,  for  Buffalo,  104  miles  ;* 

*  The  ridge  road  commences  2  1-2  miles  from  Roch 
ester,  over  which  the  following  are  the  intervening  dis 
tances  between  that  place  and  Buffalo:  Carthage  Falls 
2  miles,  Parma  9,  Clarkson  7,  Murray  7,  Ridgeway  1 5, 
Hartland  10,  Cambria  12,  Lewiston  12,  Niagara  Falls 
7,  Buffalo  22. 


254  CARTHAGE. 

and  by  way  of  Caledonia,  Le  Roy  and  Batavia,  for  Buf 
falo,  77  miles. 

PACKET  BOATS,  also,  leave  Rochester  every  morning 
for  Buffalo  and  for  Albany. 

The  STEAM  BOAT,  Ontario,  constantly  plies  during 
the  summer  season  between  Lewiston  on  the  Niagara, 
and  Ogdensburgh  on  the  St.  Lawrence  river,  touching 
at  Hanford's  Landing,  3  miles  from  Rochester,  by 
which  passages  may  be  had  to  the  Falls  or  Montreal 
once  a  week.  [This  route  is  noticed  more  fully  under  the 
head  of  Lake  Ontario.] 

Before  leaving  Rochester,  (unless  the  ridge  road  or 
steam  boat  route  should  be  taken,)  the  traveller  will 
find  it  an  object  of  interest  to  visit 

CARTHAGE,  2  miles  down  the  Genesee  river.  This 
village  derived  its  consequence  from  an  elegant  bridge, 
which,  during  its  existence,  formed  the  most  eligible 
route  to  the  western  part  of  the  state.  The  bridge  was 
erected  across  the  river  just  below  the  basin  of  the 
falls,  which  are  70  feet.  It  consisted  of  a  single  arch, 
whose  chord  measured  300  feet.  The  distance  from 
the  centre  to  the  river  was  250  feet.  This  stupendous 
fabric  stood  a  short  time  after  its  construction,  and  at 
length  fell  under  the  pressure  of  its  own  weight. 
One  of  the  hutments  is  still  standing ;  and  from  its 
situation,  visitants  may  judge  of  the  former  position  of 
the  bridge,  and  the  almost  impious  presumption  of  man 
in  attempting  to  overcome  height,  space,  gravity,  and 
the  resistless  fury  of  the  elements.  Sloops  from  the 
lake,  5  miles  distant,  ascend  up  the  river  to  these 
falls ;  where  they  are  laden  and  unladen  by  means 


CANAL  HOUTE OAK  OHCHARD.         255 

of  an  inclined  plane — the  descending  weight  being 
made  to  raise  a  lighter  one  by  its  superior  gravity. 

The  great  western  level  on  the  canal  commences  two 
miles  east  of  Rochester ;  from  whence  to  Lockport,  a 
distance  of  65  miles,  there  is  no  lock.  Between  the 
two  villages,  the  route  is  mostly  through  a  wilderness. 
Occasionally  a  new  village  is  seen  springing  up  on  the 
banks  of  the  canal ;  and  appearances  indicate,  that  the 
forests  on  the  whole  line  will  ere  long  give  place  to 
cultivation  and  compact  settlements. 

OGDEN,  a  small  village,  is  12  miles  from  Rochester ; 
and  from  thence  to 

BROCKPORT  is  8  miles.  The  village  contains  80  or 
100  houses  ;  and  the  number  is  rapidly  increasing. 

HOLLEY,  5  miles.  A  short  distance  east  of  the  vil 
lage  is  the  Holley  Embankment  and  culvert,  over  Sandy 
creek,  elevating  the  canal  87  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
creek. 

NEWPORT,  10  miles :  a  flourishing  village  of  80  or  100 
houses.  Eight  miles  farther,  in  the  town  of  Ridgway, 
a  public  road  passes  under  the  canal,  through  a  hand 
some  arch  ;  one  mile  from  which,  is  the  village  of 

OAK  ORCHARD,  on  the  bank  of  a  creek  of  that  name. 
The  canal  here  crosses  the  creek  over  the  largest  arch 
on  the  whole  route.  There  are  circular  steps  leading 
to  the  bottom ;  from  whence  is  a  foot  path  passing  un 
derneath  and  leading  to  the  village.  As  the  boat  "  waits 
for  no  man,"  passengers  desirous  of  seeing  this  artifi 
cial  work,  should  go  ashore  before  reaching  it,  and  gain 
time  by  a  rapid  walk,  They  can  be  received  on  board 


256        CANAL  ROUTE — LOCKPORT. 

again  at  the  village,  where  the  boat  stops  to  land  and 
receive  passengers. 

MIDDLEPORT  is  7  miles  farther ;  from  whence  to 
LOCKPORT  is  12  miles.  By  far  the  most  gigantic 
works  on  the  whole  line  of  the  canal,  are  at  this  place. 
After  travelling  between  60  and  70  miles  on  a  perfect 
level,  the  traveller  here  strikes  the  foot  of  the  "  Moun 
tain  Ridge,"  which  is  surmounted  by  5  magnificent 
locks  of  12  feet  each,  connected  with  5  more  of  equal 
dimensions  for  descending — so  that  while  one  boat  is 
raised  to  an  elevation  of  60  feet,  another  is  seen  sink 
ing  into  the  broad  basin  below.  The  locks  are  of  the 
finest  imaginable  workmanship,  with  stone  steps  in  the 
centre  and  on  either  side,  guarded  with  iron  railings, 
for  the  convenience  and  safety  of  passengers.  Added 
to  this  stupendous  work,  an  excavation  is  continued 
through  the  mountain  ridge,  composed  of  rock,  a  dis 
tance  of  three  miles,  at  an  average  depth  of  20  feet. 
When  viewing  this  part  of  the  canal,  we  are  amazed 
with  the  consideration  of  what  may  be  accomplished 
by  human  means. 

The  village  of  Lock  port  is  mostly  located  on  the 
mountain  ridge,  immediately  above  the  locks ;  and 
though  "  founded  on  a  rock,"  surrounded  with  rocks, 
and  with  little  or  no  soil,  it  has  already  become  a  place 
of  importance.  In  1821,  there  were  but  2  houses  in  the 
place ;  now  there  are  between  3  and  400.  The  canal 
here  being  on  the  highest  summit  level,  and  supplied 
with  water  from  lake  Erie,  (distant  30  miles,)  an 
abundance  is  obtained  for  hydraulic  purposes,  and  the 
surplus  at  Lockport  has  been  sold  for  §20,000. 


BUFFALO.  257 

In  the  excavation  through  the  mountain,  several 
minerals  were  dircovered ;  among  which  were  some 
of  the  finest  specimens  of  dog  tooth  spar  ever  found  in 
the  U.  States.  At  first  they  were  easily  obtained  ;  but 
they  have  lately  become  an  object  of  profit,  and  are 
sold  at  prices  corresponding  with  their  beauty. 

Seven  miles  from  Lockport,*  at  Pendleton,  the  ca 
nal  enters  the  Tonnewanta  creek,  and  continues  there 
in  12  miles  to  its  mouth,  where  is  a  dam  4  1-2  feet  high. 
From  thence  it  is  continued  on  the  bank  of  the  Niagara 
8  miles  to  Black  Rock,  where  it  unites  with  the  harbor, 
and  from  thence  on  the  bank  of  the  river  3  miles,  to 
Buffalo. 

BUFFALO 

Is  situated  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Erie.  It  is  a  beau 
tiful  and  thriving  village,  and  with  the  advantages  of 
both  a  natural  and  artificial  navigation,  it  is  destined 
to  become  one  of  the  most  important  places  in  the 
state.  Its  present  population  is  estimated  at  upwards 
of  7000,  and  the  number  of  buildings  at  1000.  The 
Erie  canal  commences  in  this  village,  near  the  outlet  of 
the  Buffalo  creek,  and  passes  through  an  extensive  and 
perfectly  level  plot,  equadistant  from  the  shore  of  the 
lake  and  the  high  grounds  called  the  Terrace.  From 
the  canal  are  cut,  at  very  suitable  distances,  lateral  ca 
nals  and  basins,  rendering  the  whole  of  the  lower  town 


*  Passengers  in  packets,  who  wish  to  visit  the  Falls, 
generally  take  a  stage  at  Lockport,  and  proceed  direct 
ly  to  Manchester  (the  American  Fall)  23  miles  distant, 
or  to  Lewiston,  7  miles  below  the  Falls  ;  visiting  the 
latter  afterwards. 


258  BUFFALO. 

contiguous  to  water  communication.  Stores  and  ware 
houses  are  so  constructed,  as  to  receive  the  boats  along 
side.  In  its  location,  Buffalo  is  in  the  midst  of  the  en- 
terprize  and  business  of  this  new  world.  All  the  man 
ufactures  and  migrating  population  of  the  north  and 
east  here  find  a  resting  place,  and  the  agricultural  pro 
ducts  of  the  west,  coming  hither  from  the  long  extend 
ed  lakes,  here  seek  a  new  avenue  to  the  Atlantic.  The 
lower  town  will  soon  be  spread  over  that  part  below 
the  Terrace,  where  begins  a  gentle  and  equal  rise  of 
ground,  continuing  nearly  and  perhaps  quite  two  miles, 
and  then  falls  away  to  a  perfect  level  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach,  bounded  only  by  the  horizon.  Upon  this 
elevated  ground  there  is  a  charming  view  of  the  lake, 
Niagara  river,  the  canal  with  all  its  branches,  the  Buf 
falo  creek,  the  town  itself,  and  the  Canada  shore ;  a 
prospect  from  which  every  one  parts  with  reluctance. 
The  streets  are  very  broad,  and  passing  from  the  high 
grounds  over  the  Terrace  to  the  water,  are  intersected 
with  cross  streets.  There  are  3  public  squares  of  some 
extent,  which  add  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  town. 
The  public  buildings  are  a  court-house,  situated  on  the 
highest  part  of  Main-street,  well  proportioned  and 
handsomely  ornamented.  The  Presbyterian  meeting 
house,  standing  near  the  Episcopal  church  upon  a  semi 
circular  common  on  Main-street,  is  an  edifice  of  very 
commanding  appearance.  There  are  many  spacious 
hotels,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  traveller ;  among 
which,  the  Eagle  Tavern,  kept  by  Mr.  Rathbun,  is  con 
sidered  one  of  the  best  in  the  union. 

The  village  was  burnt  by  the  British  in  1814,  when 
there  was  but  one  house  left  standing.  This  is  still 
pointed  out  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town.  It  was  not 


BUFFALO.  259 

until  considerable  time  had  elapsed  after  this,  that  Buf 
falo  began  to  be  rebuilt,  nor  until  the  canal  was  locat 
ed,  did  it  rise  with  much  promise. 

Great  improvements  have  recently  been  made  in  the 
harbor.  The  sand  from  the  lake  met  the  current  of 
the  Buffalo  creek,  and  formed  every  season  a  bar  which 
prejudiced  the  harbor  to  an  alarming  degree.  By  an 
erection  of  a  pier,  18  feet  wide  and  80  rods  long,  run 
ning  into  the  lake,  this  evil  is  overcome.  The  lower 
town  is  subject  to  another  evil  of  some  magnitude. 
Gales  or  tempests  from  the  southwest  cause  an  inun 
dation  of  the  lake,  by  means  of  which  great  losses  of 
property  are  frequently  sustained.  This  may,  and 
probably  will  be  prevented,  by  constructing  a  dike  at  a 
suitable  place  near  the  bank  of  the  lake. 

As  this  place  was  the  theatre  of  important  events 
during  the  last  war,  the  writer  had  expected  to  find  in 
the  village  church  yard  some  monuments  to  the  memo 
ry  of  the  brave  who  fell  during  that  period.  But  he 
discovered  only  one  ;  it  contained  the  following  in 
scription  :  "  To  the  memory  of  Maj.  WM.  HOWE  CUT 
LER,  who  was  killed  at  Black  Rock  by  a  shot  from  the 
enemy,  on  the  night  of  the  9th  October,  1812,  while 
humanely  administering  to  the  relief  of  the  wounded 
soldiers,  who  intrepidly  crossed  to  the  British  shore, 
and  brought  over  the  Adams  frigate,  that  had  been  sur 
rendered  by  Gen.  Hull,  and  the  Caledonia  ship  belong 
ing  to  the  enemy.  He  was  in  the  35th  year  of  his  age, 
and  son  of  the  late  Henry  Cuyler,  Esq.  of  Greenbush, 
in  this  state." 

The  Seneca   Village,  settled  by  a  tribe  of  about  300 
Indians,  is  from  3  to  4  miles  south  east  of  Buffalo,  and  is 
x 


260  WESTERN  LAKES. 

usually  visited  by  strangers.  The  tribe  own  a  valuable 
tract  of  land,  bordering  on  the  Buffalo  creek ;  which, 
under  the  management  of  the  whites,  would  yield  lux 
uriantly  ;  but,  in  the  hands  of  its  present  proprietors,  is 
but  partially  improved.  Red  Jacket,  a  celebrated  chief 
of  this  nation,  died  in  1829,  at  an  advanced  age. 

Stages  leave  Buffalo  every  morning  and  evening  for 
Utica — the  morning  line  going  through  by  day-light  in 
3  days — the  evening,  day  and  night,  in  two  days.  A 
line  also  runs  daily  to  Rochester. 

THE  WESTERN  LAKES. 

Before  proceeding  down  the  Niagara  river  to  the 
Falls,  it  may  be  interesting  to  tourists  to  examine  a 
brief  description  of  the  great  chain  of  lakes  whose  wat 
ers  flow  through  this  channel.  It  will  give  a  more  ad 
equate  idea  of  the  vast  amount  of  waters  which  are 
united  in  this  stupendous  river. 

LAKE  SUPERIOR,  the  first  and  westernmost  of  these 
inland  seas,  lies  between  46°  and  49°  of  north  latitude, 
and  between  84°  and  93°  west  longitude  from  London. 
Its  length  is  459,  and  its  average  width  109  miles. 
About  40  email  and  3  large  rivers  enter  into  this  lake, 
on  one  of  which,  just  before  its  entrance,  are  perpen 
dicular  falls  of  more  than  600  feet.  The  water  of  the 
lake  is  remarkably  transparent,  so  much  so,  that  a  ca 
noe  over  the  depth  of  six  fathoms  seems  rather  suspen 
ded  in  air  than  resting  on  the  water.  The  outlet  of  the 
lake  is  called  the  river  St.  Marie,  which  is  90  miles 
long,  its  waters  flowing  into 

LAKC  HURON.  This  lake  is  on  the  boundary  between 
the  U.  States  and  Canada,  218  miles  long  from  east  to 


WESTERN  LAKES.  *J61 

west,  and  1 80  broad.  Besides  the  waters  of  Lake  8u- 
perior,  it  receives  the  waters  of 

LAKE  MICHIGAN,  which  is  300  miles  long  and  about 
50  miles  wide.  At  its  northwest  corner  a  large  in 
let  opens,  called  Green  Bay,  about  100  miles  long,  and 
from  15  to  20  broad,  into  which  Fox  river  empties. 
Three  miles  from  the  mouth  of  this  river  is  Green  Bay 
village,  a  very  considerable  settlement,  and  a  U.  States 
military  post,  called  Fort  Howard.  The  fort  is  built  of 
stone,  and  is  on  a  beautiful  rising  ground.  Steam-boats 
from  Buffalo  visit  this  place  occasionally  during  the 
summer — distance  807  miles.  Besides  the  Fox,  the  St. 
Joseph  and  Grand,  two  very  important  rivers,  and  in 
numerable  smaller  streams,  discharge  their  waters  into 
Lake  Michigan. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  straits  which  unite  the  Michi 
gan  with  the  Huron  lake,  and  within  the  latter,  is  the 
island  of  Michilimackinac,  commonly  called  Mackinaw, 
distinguished  as  a  military^  post  during  the  French  war, 
and  occupied  as  such  by  the  government  of  the  U.  S. 
at  the  present  time.  The  island  is  about  9  miles  in 
circumference ;  and  the  village  of  Mackinaw,  which  is 
on  its  south  east  side,  is  surrounded  with  a  steep  cliff 
150  feet  high.  On  the  top  of  this  cliff  stands  a  fort ; 
half  a  mile  from  which,  on  another  summit,  300  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  lake,  is  Fort  Holmes,  command 
ing  an  extensive  prospect  of  both  lakes.  Mackinaw  is 
180  miles  NE.  of  Fort  Howard,  313  N.  of  Detroit,  and 
627  NW.  of  Buffalo. 

The  waters  of  these  lakes  thus  congregated,  enter 
the  St.  Clair  river,  40  miles  long,  to  the  St.  Clair  Lake, 
which  is  about  00  miles  in  circumference.  From  this 


"2GC2  PHOM  BUEFAI.O  TO  NIAGARA. 

lake  they  enter  the  Detroit  river,  on  which  the  city  of 
Detroit*  stands,  9  miles  below  the  lake,  and  commu 
nicate  with  Lake  Erie,  19  miles  from  Detroit. 

LAKE  ERIE  is  on  the  boundary  line  between  the  U.  S. 
and  .Upper  Canada.  It  is  290  miles  long  from  SW. 
to  NE.,  and  in  the  widest  part,  63  broad.  Besides 
the  waters  of  the  upper  lakes,  it  receives  the  Cayahoga 
river  and  several  tributary  streams. 

Such  are  the  sources  of  the  NIAGARA  ;  a  river  infe 
rior  in  splendor  to  none,  perhaps,  in  the  world. 

FROM  BUFFALO  TO  NIAGARA  FALLS, 

o?i  the  American  side. 

A  stage  leaves  Buffalo  every  morning  at  6  o'clock, 
passing  through  the  village  of  Black  Rock  3  miles, 
Tonnewanta  9  miles,  (where  the  canal  enters  the  Tonne- 
wanta  creek,)  Niagara  Falls  11  miles.  Fare  $1.  This 
line,  after  giving  passengers  an  opportunity  of  witness 
ing  the  Falls  for  2  or  3  hours,  proceeds  to  Youngstown, 
or  Fort  Niagara,  passing  through  Lewiston. 
Chi  the  Canada  side. 

A  stage  leaves  Buffalo,  daily,  at  8  A.  M.  passes 
through  Black  Rock  3  miles,  crosses  the  ferry  to  Water 
loo  1  mile,  and  proceeds  to  Chippewa  battle  ground  15 
miles,  Chippewa  village  1  mile,  Niagara  Falls  2  miles. 
Fare,  including  ferriage,  $1,12.  Stages  leave  Niagara 
at  3  P.  M.  for  Queenston  and  Fort  George. 


*  Steam  boats  leave  Buffalo  every  other  day  for  De 
troit,  stopping  at  Erie,  90  miles — Grand  River,  60 — 
Cleaveland,  30— Sandusky,  55— Detroit,  71— total  305 
miles.  Fare,  in  the  cabin,  $15.  Boats  also  leave  Buf 
falo  daily  for  Erie,  Penn.  touching  at  Dunkirk  and  Port 
land. 


POUT  ERIE.  26-8 

STEAM  BOAT  LINE. 

The  steam-boat  Chippewa  leaves  Buffalo  every  mor 
ning  at  8  o'clock,  passing  every  other  day  around 
Grand  Island,  and  reaches  the  village  of  Chippewa 
about  noon  ;  from  whence  passengers  take  stages  for 
the  Falls.  The  boat  returns  to  Buffalo  at  7  P.  M.  Fare 
each  way  $1. 

BLACK  ROCK,  3  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  a  village  of 
considerable  magnitude  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Nia 
gara  river.  It  was  burnt  by  the  British  in  1814  ;  but 
has  been  rebuilt,  and  is  much  increased  from  its  former 
size.  Among  its  most  prominent  buildings  is  the  pri 
vate  mansion  of  Gen.  Peter  B.  Porter,  late  secretary  of 
war,  which  has  a  very  handsome  appearance  from  the 
water.  A  pier  in  the  river,  about  2  miles  long,  affords 
a  harbor  to  the  village,  and  is  used  as  a  part  of  the 
grand  canal.  The  dam,  however,  has  been  found  in 
sufficient  to  withstand  the  force  of  the  current.  Re 
peated  injuries  are  sustained,  and  vessels  now  seldom 
enter  the  harbor.  The  Niagara  river  is  here  one  mile 
wide,  and  is  crossed  in  a  horse  boat.  Opposite  Black 
Rock,  on  the  Canada  side,  is  the  small  village  of 

WATERLOO  ;  a  little  south  of  which  stand  the  ruins 
of  FORT  ERIE,  rendered  memorable  as  the  theatre  of 
several  severe  engagements  during  the  last  war.  The 
last  and  most  decisive  battle  fought  at  this  place,  was 
on  the  night  of  the  15th  of  August,  1S14.  The  fort 
was  occupied  by  the  Americans ;  and  its  possession 
was  considered  an  object  of  importance  to  the  British. 
Taking  advantage  of  the  darkness  of  the  night,  they 
made  repeated  and  furious  assaults,  and  were  as  often 
x2 


264  r-HIPPEWA   BATTLE  GROUND. 

repulsed ;  until,  at  length,  they  succeeded,  by  superior 
force,  in  gaining  a  bastion.  After  maintaining  it  for  a 
short  time,  at  the  expense  of  many  lives,  accident  placed 
it  again  in  the  hands  of  the  Americans.  Several  car 
tridges  which  had  been  placed  in  a  stone  building  ad 
joining  exploded,  producing  tremendous  slaughter  and 
death  among  the  British.  They  soon  retreated,  leav 
ing  on  the  field  221  killed,  among  whom  were  Cols. 
Scott  and  Drummond,  174  wounded,  and  186  prisoners. 
The  American  loss  was  17  killed,  56  wounded,  and  11 
missing. 

This  action  was  followed  by  a  splendid  sortie  near 
the  fort  on  the  17th  of  the  following  month,  which  re 
sulted  in  a  loss  to  the  British  of  nearly  1000,  including 
385  prisoners,  and  to  the  Americans  of  511  killed, 
wounded  and  missing. 

From  Waterloo  to  CHIPPEWA  BATTLE  GROUND  is 
15  miles,  over  a  tolerably  good,  though  sandy  road. 

The  Battle  of  Chippewa  was  fought  on  the  5th  of  July, 
1814,  and  has  been  described  as  one  of  the  most  bril 
liant  spectacles  that  could  well  be  conceived.  "  The 
day  (says  a  writer)  was  clear  and  bright ;  and  the  plain 
such  as  might  have  been  selected  for  a  parade  or  a 
tournament;  the  troops  on  both  sides,  though  not  nu 
merous,  admirably  diciplined  ;  the  generals  leading  on 
their  columns  in  person  ;  the  glitter  of  the  arms  in  the 
eun,  and  the  precision  and  distinctness  of  every  move 
ment,  were  all  calculated  to  carry  the  mind  back  to 
the  scenes  of  ancient  story  or  poetry — to  the  plains  of 
Latium  or  of  Troy,  and  all  those  recollections  which 
fill  the  imagination  with  images  of  personal  heroism 
and  romantic  valor. 


CHIPPEWA  VILLAGE.  265 

After  some  skirmishing,  the  British  Indians  were 
discovered  in  the  rear  of  the  American  camp.  Gen. 
Porter,  with  his  volunteers  and  Indians,  were  directed 
to  scour  in  the  adjoining  forest.  This  force  had  near 
ly  debouched  from  the  woods  opposite  Chippewa,  when 
it  was  ascertained  that  the  whole  British  force,  under 
Gen.  Riall,  had  crossed  the  Chippewa  bridge.  Gen. 
Brown  gave  immediate  orders  to  Gen.  Scott  to  advance 
with  his  brigade,  and  to  Gen.  Ripley  to  be  in  readiness 
to  support.  In  a  few  minutes  the  British  line  was  dis 
covered  formed  and  rapidly  advancing,  their  right  on 
the  woods,  and  their  left  on  the  river.  Their  object 
was  to  gain  the  bridge  across  a  small  creek  in  front  of 
the  American  encampment,  which,  if  done  would  have 
compelled  the  Americans  to  retire.  This  bridge,  how 
ever,  was  soon  gained  by  Gen.  Scott  and  crossed,  un 
der  a  tremendous  fire  of  the  British  artillery,  and  his 
line  formed.  The  British  orders  were  to  give  one  vol 
ley  at  a  distance,  and  immediately  charge.  But  such 
was  the  warmth  of  our  musquetry  that  they  could  not 
withstand  it,  and  were  obliged  to  retreat  before  the  ap 
pearance  of  Ripley's  brigade,  which  had  been  directed 
to  make  a  movement  through  the  woods  upon  the  ene 
my's  right  flank.  The  British  recrossed  the  Chippewa 
bridge,  which  they  broke  down  on  their  retreat,  having 
suffered  a  loss  in  killed,  wounded  and  missing,  of  514. 
The  American  loss  was  328. 

CHIPPEWA  VILLAGE  is  one  mile  north  of  the  battle 
ground.  It  contains  a  small  cluster  of  buildings  and  a 
few  mills  situate  on  the  Chippewa  creek,  which  runs 
through  the  village.  The  steam-  boat  from .  Buffalo 
lands  passengers  at  this  place.  One  mile  farther  ia 


$66  BR1DQEWATKH. 

BRIDGEWATER  or  LUNDY'S  LANE,  celebrated  as  the 
ground  on  which  an  important  battle  was  fought,  20 
days  after  the  battle  at  Chippewa.  The  scene  of  action 
was  near  the  mighty  cataract  of  Niagara,  and  within 
the  sound  of  its  thunders,  and  was,  in  proportion  to  the 
numbers  engaged,  the  most  sanguinary,  and  decidedly 
the  best  fought  of  any  action  which  ever  took  place  on 
the  American  continent.  The  following  letter,  written 
by  a  surgeon  of  one  of  the  regiments,  the  day  after  the 
engagement,  contains  many  interesting  particulars  : 

"In  the  afternoon  the  enemy  advanced  towards 
Chippewa  with  a  powerful  force.  At  6  o'clock  Gen. 
Scott  was  ordered  to  advance  with  his  brigade  and  at 
tack  them.  He  was  soon  reinforced  by  General  Rip- 
ley's  brigade;  they  met  the  enemy  below  the  falls. 
They  had  selected  their  ground  for  the  night,  intend 
ing  to  attack  our  camp  before  day-light.  The  action 
began  just  before  7,  and  an  uninterrupted  stream  of 
musketry  continued  till  half  past  8,  when  there  was 
some  cessation,  the  British  falling  back.  It  soon  be 
gan  again  with  some  artillery,  which,  with  slight  inter 
ruptions,  continued  till  half  past  10,  when  there  was  a 
charge,  and  a  tremendous  stream  of  fire  closed  the  con 
flict.  Both  armies  fought  with  a  desperation  bordering 
on  madness ;  neither  would  yieid  the  palm,  but  each 
retired  a  short  distance,  wearied  out  with  fatigue. 
Such  a  constant  and  destructive  fire  was  never  before 
sustained  by  American  troops  without  falling  back. 

"  The  enemy  had  collected  their  whole  force  in  the 
peninsula,  and  were  reinforced  by  troops  from  Lord 
Wellington's  army,  just  landed  from  Kingston.  For 
two  hours  the  two  hostile  Iraes  were  within  20  yards  of 


BIUDGEWATER.  267 

teach  other,  and  so  frequently  intermingled,  that  often 
an  officer  would  order  an  enemy's  platoon.  The  moon 
shone  bright ;  but  part  of  our  men  being  dressed  like 
the  Glengarian  regiment  caused  the  deception.  They 
frequently  charged,  and  were  as  often  driven  back. 
Our  regiment,  under  Colonel  Miller,  was  ordered  to 
storm  the  British  battery.  We  charged,  and  took  eve 
ry  piece  of  the  enemy's  cannon.  We  kept  possession 
of  the  ground  and  cannon  until  12  o'clock  at  night, 
when  we  all  fell  back  more  than  2  miles.  This  was 
done  to  secure  our  camp,  which  might  otherwise  have 
been  attacked  in  the  rear.  Our  horses  being  most  of 
them  killed,  and  there  being  no  ropes  to  the  pieces,  we 
got  off  but  two  or  three.  The  men  were  so  excessive 
ly  fatigued  they  could  not  drag  them.  We  lost  one 
howitzer,  the  horses  being  on  full  gallop  towards  the 
enemy  to  attack  them,  the  riders  were  shot  off  and  the 
horses  ran  through  the  enemy's  line.  We  lost  one 
piece  of  cannon,  which  was  too  much  advanced,  every 
man  being  shot  that  had  charge  of  it,  but  two.  Sever 
al  of  our  caissons  were  blown  up  by  their  rockets, 
which  did  some  injury,  and  deprived  our  cannon  of 
ammunition.  The  lines  were  so  near  that  cannon 
could  not  be  used  with  advantage." 

The  British  loss  in  killed,  wounded  and  prisoners 
was  878 ;  and  the  American  loss  860. 

The  road  to  the  falls  passes  directly  over  the  hill 
where  the  British  artillery  were  posted  at  the  time 
Scott's  brigade  commenced  the  action ;  and  the  hou 
ses  in  the  village  of  Bridgewater — the  trees  and  fences 
in  the  vicinity,  still  retain  marks  of  the  combat.  Many 
graves  are  seen  upon  the  hill ;  among  others,  that  of 


NIAGARA    PALLS. 

Capt.  Hull,  son  of  the  late  Gen.  Hull,  who  distinguish 
ed  himself  and  fell  in  this  action.  Most  of  the  slain 
were  collected  and  burned  upon  the  battle  ground ;  on 
which  spot  it  is  in  contemplation  to  erect  a  church. 

BURNING  SPRING. 

About  half  a  mile  north  of  Lundy's  Lane,  and  within 
a  few  feet  of  the  rapids  in  the  Niagara  river,  is  a  Burn 
ing  Spring.  The  water  is  warm  and  surcharged  with 
sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas.  The  water  rises  in  a  bar 
rel,  which  is  covered,  and  the  gas  escapes  through  a 
tube.  On  applying  a  candle  to  the  tube,  the  gas  takes 
fire,  and  burns  with  a  brilliant  flame  until  blown  out ; 
and  on  closing  the  building  for  a  short  time  in  which 
the  spring  is  contained,  and  afterwards  entering  it  with 
a  lighted  candle,  an  explosion  may  be  produced.  A 
small  fee  for  the  exhibition  is  required  by  the  keeper  of 
the  spring. 

Half  a  mile  from  the  Burning  Spring  are  the  cele 
brated 

NIAGARA  FALLS. 

They  are  situated  on  the  Niagara  River,  which 
unites  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie  and  the  upper  lakes 
with  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  river  is 
35  miles  in  length,  and  from  1-2  mile  to  5  or  6  in  width. 
The  banks  of  the  river  vary  in  their  height  above  the 
Falls,  from  4  to  100  feet.  Immediately  below  the  Falls 
the  precipice  is  not  less  than  300  feet,  and  from  thence 
to  lake  Ontario  gradually  diminishes  to  the  height  of 
25  or  30  feet.  The  Niagara  river  contains  a  number  of 
islands,  the  principal  of  which  is  Grand  Island,  which 
was  ceded  to  the  state  of  New- York  by  the  Seneca  Na- 


NIAGARA    FALLS.  %9 

tion  of  Indians,  in  1815.  For  the  grant  the  state  paid 
$1000  down,  and  secured  an  annuity  of  $500.  This 
island  is  12  miles  long,  and  from  2  to  7  broad. 

The  Falls  are  situated  below  Grand  Island,  about  20 
miles  distant  from  Lake  Erie,  and  14  from  Lake  Onta 
rio.  At  Chippewa  creek,  2  miles  above  the  Falls,  the 
width  of  the  river  is  nearly  2  miles,  and  its  current  ex 
tremely  rapid.  From  thence  to  the  Falls  it  gradually 
narrows  to  about  1  mile  in  width.  The  descent  of  the 
rapids  has  been  estimated  at  53  feet.  The  course  of 
the  river  above  the  Falls  is  north- west wardly,  and  be 
low  it  turns  abruptly  to  the  north-east,  and  flows  about 
a  mile  and  a  half,  when  it  assumes  a  northern  direction 
to  Lake  Ontario.  The  cataract  pours  over  a  summit 
in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  extending  some  distance  up 
the  stream.  The  sheet  of  water  is  separated  by  Goat 
Island,  leaving  the  grand  fall  on  the  Canada  side,  about 
600  yards  wide,  and  the  high  fall  on  the  American  side, 
about  300.  The  fall  on  the  American  side  drops  al 
most  perpendicularly  to  the  distance  of  164  feet.  The 
grand  or  horse-shoe  fall,  on  the  Canada  side,  descends 
to  the  river  below  in  the  form  of  a  curve,  158  feet,  pro 
jecting  about  50  feet  from  the  base.  The  whole 
height,  including  the  descent  of  the  rapids  above,  is 
216  feet. 

On  the  Canada  side, 

The  view  from  the  table  rock,  has  been  generally 
considered  preferable ;  but  this  point  must  be  decided 
by  the  different  tastes  of  visitors.  The  table  rock  pro 
jects  about  50  feet,  and  between  it  and  the  Falls  an  ir 
regular  arch  is  formed,  which  extends  under  the  pitch, 
almost  without  interruption,  to  the  island.  The  de- 


270  NIAGARA    FALLS. 

•cent  from  the  table  rock  is  by  means  of  a  spiral 
Btair-way,  which  is  enclosed.  Visitants  desirous  of 
passing  in  the  rear  of  the  great  sheet  of  water,  are 
supplied  by  the  keeper  of  the  stairs  with  dresses  for 
that  purpose,  and  with  a  guide.  On  reaching  the  bot 
tom,  a  rough  path  winds  along  the  foot  of  the  precipice 
and  leads  under  the  excavated  bank,  which,  in  one 
place,  overhangs  about  40  feet.  The  entrance  into  the 
tremendous  [cavern  behind  the  falling  sheet  should 
never  be  attempted  by  persons  of  weak  nerves.  The 
humidity  of  the  atmosphere,  which,  at  times,  almost 
prevents  respiration ;  the  deafening  roar  of  the  foaming 
torrent,  and  the  sombre  appearance  of  surrounding  ob 
jects,  is  oftentimes  calculated  to  unnerve  the  stoutest 
frame.  The  farthest  distance  that  can  be  approached, 
is  to  what  is  called  Termination  Rock,  153  feet  from  the 
commencement  of  the  volume  of  water  at  Table  Rock. 
Few,  however,  have  the  courage  to  proceed  that  dis 
tance  ;  and  seldom  go  farther  than  100  feet. 

A  large  crack  in  the  table  rock,  which  has  increased 
annually  for  some  years,  renders  it  very  certain  that 
a  considerable  proportion  will  ere  long  fall  into 
the  abyss  below.  The  part  thus  cracked  is  nearly  50 
feet  in  width,  and  might  be  blasted  off  without  difficul 
ty.  The  height  of  this  rock  has  been  ascertained  to  be 
163  feet ;  while  that  of  the  Falls,  measuring  from  the 
bridge  near  the  terrapin  rocks,  has  proved  to  be  158 
feet  4  inches. 

The  Pavilion,  kept  by  Mr.  Foreyth,  on  the  Canada 
side,  is  on  a  lofty  eminence  above  the  Falls  ;  affording 
from  its  piazzas  and  roof  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the 
surrounding  scenery.  It  is  a  handsomely  constructed 


NIAGARA   FALLS.  271 

building,  and  can  accommodate  from  100  to  150  guests. 
Row  boats  are  continually  crossing  the  river  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  the  falls.  The  rapidity  of 
the  current,  the  numerous  eddies,  and  the  agitated  ap 
pearance  of  the  water,  are  calculated  to  impress  a 
stranger  with  an  idea,  that  a  passage  is  hazardous. 
But  we  believe  few,  if  any  accidents  have  ever  happen 
ed.  The  boatmen  are  skilful,  and  the  crossing  is  gen 
erally  effected  in  about  15  minutes. 

The  Falls  on  the  American  side, 

Though  less  gigantic,  are  nevertheless  beautiful; 
and  would  done  be  considered  one  of  the  greatest  nat 
ural  curiosities  in  the  world.  A  flight  of  stairs  has 
been  constructed  from  the  bank  a  few  rods  below  the 
fall  to  the  bottom.  In  consequence  of  a  rocky  barrier 
in  front  of  the  falling  sheet,  it  can  be  approached  to 
within  a  few  feet ;  though  not  without  encountering  a 
plentiful  shower  of  the  spray.  About  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  above  the  fall,  a  bridge  has  been  constructed  from 
the  shore  to  Bath  Island ;  which  is  connected  by 
means  of  another  bridge  with  Goat  Island.  The  sen 
sation  in  crossing  these  bridges,  and  particularly  the 
first,*  over  the  tremendous  rapids  beneath,  is  calculat- 


*  Gen.  Peter  B.  Porter,  of  Black  Rock,  to  whom  the 
public  are  indebted  for  the  construction  of  this  bridge, 
informed  me  that  its  erection  was  not  effected  without 
considerable  danger.  Two  large  trees,  hewed  to  cor 
respond  with  their  shape,  were  first  constructed  into  a 
temporary  bridge,  the  buts  fastened  to  the  shore,  with 
the  lightest  ends  projecting  over  the  rapids.  At  the 
extremity  of  the  projection,  a  small  butment  of  stone 


272  NIAGARA    FALLS, 

ed  to  alarm  the  traveller  for  his  safety,  and  hasten  hira 
in  his  excursion  to  the  Island.  On  Bath  Island,  mills 
have  been  erected,  contiguous  to  what  is  termed  the 
race-way,  which  divides  Bath  from  Goat  Island.  The 
latter,  which  is  330  yards  broad,  is  principally  a  wilder 
ness.  On  the  southern  and  western  banks  an  exten 
sive  view  is  had  of  the  rapids  above  and  of  the  grand 
fall  on  the  Canada  side.  But  the  best  view  of  the  lat 
ter  is  obtained  from  a  small  bridge  which  has  been 
erected  from  the  island  to  the  Terrapin  rocks,  adjoining 
the  falls,  300  feet  from  the  shore.  From  the  end  of 
this  bridge,  which  is  placed  on  the  very  verge  of  the 
precipice,  the  frightful  abyss,  covered  with  a  foam  of 
snowy  whiteness,  is  seen  beneath.  No  one  can  wit 
ness  it  at  first,  without  involuntarily  shrinking  back. 
A  fear  that  the  frail  structure  on  which  he  stands  may 
possibly  give  way,  induces  him  to  retrace  his  steps 
with  as  little  delay  as  practicable ;  and  it  is  not  until 
after  repeated  visits,  that  this  alarm  wholly  subsides. 

At  the  foot  of  Iris  Island  (adjoining  Goat  Island)  is 
what  is  called  the  Biddle  stair-tvay,  erected  by  N.  BID- 


was  at  first  placed  in  the  river,  and  when  this  became 
secure,  logs  were  sunk  around  it,  locked  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  form  a  frame,  which  was  filled  with  stone. 
A  bridge  was  then  made  to  this  butment,  the  tempora 
ry  bridge  shoved  forward,  and  another  butment  form 
ed,  until  the  whole  was  completed.  One  man  fell  into 
the  rapids  during  the  work.  At  first,  owing  to  the  ve 
locity  with  which  he  was  carried  forward,  he  was  un 
able  to  hold  upon  the  projecting  rocks ;  but  through 
great  bodily  exertions  to  lessen  the  motion,  by  swim 
ming  against  the  current,  he  was  enabled  to  seize  up 
on  a  rock,  from  which  he  was  taken  by  means  of  a  ropes. 


NIAGARA    FALLS.  273 

DLE,  Esq.  president  of  the  U.  S.  Bank.  This  affords 
a  safe  and  easy  passage  to  a  position  more  favorable 
than  any  other,  for  viewing  this  stupendous  work  of 
nature.  The  elevation  of  the  island  above  the  margin 
of  the  river  or  basin  below,  is  185  feet.  The  descent  of 
the  first  40  feet  is  effected  by  a  flight  of  steps,  com 
mencing  in  the  interior  of  the  island,  and  descending  on 
an  inclined  plane  to  the  brow  of  the  perpendicular 
work,  through  a  dugway  walled  on  both  sides ;  the 
second  flight  is  by  a  spiral  stair  way  of  88  steps,  down 
a  perpendicular  building  in  the  shape  of  a  hexigon,  rest 
ing  on  a  firm  foundation — the  whole  handsomely  en 
closed.  From  the  foot  of  this  building  to  the  river  be 
low,  (about  80  feet)  are  three  paths  formed  of  stone 
steps,  and  leading  to  the  water  in  different  directions.* 

The  amount  of  water  which  passes  over  the  respec 
tive  falls,  has  been  estimated  by  Dr.  D wight  at  more 
than  100  millions  of  tons  an  hour.  No  method  can  be 
devised  for  ascertaining  the  depth  at  the  principal  fall ; 
but  it  is  not  improbable  that  it  may  be  6  or  800  feet ; 
as  the  depth  of  the  stream  half  a  mile  below  is  from  250 
to  260  feet. 

To  a  stranger  who  shall  examine  the  rapids  above 
the  falls,  it  will  seem  incredible  that  Goat  Island  should 
ever  have  been  visited  previous  to  the  construction  of 
the  bridge.  Yet  as  early  as  1765,t  seveal  French  offi- 

*  It  was  from  ladders  erected  at  this  place  that  the 
celebrated  Sam  Patch  made  a  descent  of  118  feet  into 
the  water  below  a  short  time  previous  to  his  fatal  jump 
at  Rochester  in  the  fall  of  1829. 

|  Trees  marked  1765  and  1769,  are  still  to  be  seen  on 
the  island. 


274  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

cers  were  conveyed  to  it  by  Indians  in  canoes,  care* 
fully  dropping  down  the  river ;  and  it  is  but  a  few 
years  since  Gen.  Porter,  of  Black  Rock,  with  some  oth 
er  gentlemen,  also  made  a  trip  to  the  Island  in  a  boat. 
They  found  but  little  difficulty  in  descending ;  but  their 
return  was  difficult  and  hazardous.  It  was  effected  by 
shoving  the  boat  with  setting  poles  up  the  most  shal 
low  part  of  the  current,  for  half  a  mile,  before  making 
for  the  shore. 

Falling  into  the  current,  within  a  mile  of  the  falls,  is 
considered  fatal.  Several  accidents  of  this  kind  have 
happened;  and  no  one,  (save  in  the  instance  men 
tioned  in  a  preceding  page,)  has  ever  reached  the  shore. 
Many  bodies  have  been  found  below  the  falls — those 
that  have  fallen  in  the  centre  of  the  stream,  without 
any  external  marks  of  injury;  and  those  that  have 
fallen  near  the  shore,  much  lacerated  and  disfigured. 
The  latter  has  probably  been  occasioned  by  coming  in 
contact  with  rocks  in  shallow  water,  before  reaching 
the  cataract.  It  is  but  a  few  years  since  an  Indian, 
partially  intoxicated,  in  attempting  to  cross  the  river 
near  Chippewa,  was  forced  near  the  rapids;  when 
finding  all  efforts  to  regain  the  shore  unavailing,  he  lay 
down  in  his  canoe,  and  was  soon  plunged  into  the  tre 
mendous  vortex  below.  He  was  never  seen  after 
wards. 

There  are  two  large  boarding  establishments  on  the 
American  side,  in  what  is  called  the  village  of  Man 
chester.  The  Eagle  Tavern  kept  by  Gen.  Whitney,  is 
the  oldest,  and  is  entitled  to  a  full  share  of  patronage. 
The  other  has  been  recently  erected,  and  is  a  handsome 


WELLAND  CANAL.  275 

building,  with  pleasant  and  airy  apartments.  The  vil 
lage  was  burnt  by  the  British  in  1813  ;  but  it  has  been 
rebuilt,  and  though  small,  is  larger  than  it  was  previ 
ous  to  that  event. 

In  giving  a  general  description  of  the  Falls,  we  have, 
in  crossing  to  the  American  side,  diverged  from  our  pro 
posed  route.  While  on  the  Canada  shore,  it  is  reccom- 
mended  to  tourists  to  visit  the  Deep  Cut  on  the  Wei- 
land  canal,  eight  miles  west  of  the  Falls ;  return  j  pro 
ceed  down  the  Niagara  river  through  Queenston  to 
Fort  George  or  Newark  ;  cross  over  to  Fort  Niagara  or 
Youngstown,  and  proceed  up  the  river,  through  Lewis- 
ton,  to  Manchester.  For  a  short  excursion,  there  are 
many  objects  of  attraction  on  this  route,  which  are  no 
ticed  hereafter. 

The  WELLAND  CANAL  unites  the  waters  of  Lakes 
Erie  and  Ontario,  and  is  constructed  for  sloops  of  125 
tons  burthen.  The  canal  commences  at  Port  Mait- 
land,  at  the  mouth  of  Grand  river  on  Lake  Erie,  40 
miles  west  of  Buffalo,  and  follows  the  channel  of  that 
stream  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  thence  up  Broad 
creek  nearly  a  mile,  where  the  artificial  channel  com 
mences  by  a  cut  of  10  miles  through  a  marsh.  It 
then  proceeds  down  Mill  creek  2  1-2  miles  until  it 
intersects  the  Welland  river,  into  which  it  descends  by 
a  lock  of  eight  feet  lift  ;  thence  a  towing  path  is  con 
structed  along  the  banks  10  miles — the  marsh  excava 
tion  from  10  to  16  feet.  From  Welland  river  the  canal 
runs  in  a  northerly  direction  winding  up  a  ravine  66 
chains,  having  8  or  10  feet  cutting ;  where  commences 
Y2 


WELLAND  CANAL. 

the  deep  cutting  or  dividing  ridge,  an  almost  abrupt 
height  of  27  feet  above  the  canal  bottom.  It  thence 
runs  gradually  to  56  feet  6  inches  in  a  distance  of  100 
chains  ;  thence  descends  to  30  feet  in  28  chains,  which 
as  abruptly  breaks  off  in  another  ravine ;  whole  dis 
tance  through  the  deep  cut  1  mile  54  chains  •  average 
depth  44  feet.  To  the  depth  of  from  12  to  18  feet  from 
the  surface,  it  is  a  compound  of  clay,  mixed  with  sand, 
and  below  this  a  tenaceous  blue  clay.  From  the  termina 
tion  of  the  deep  cut  to  that  part  where  the  mountain  de 
scends,  is  a  distance  of  4  miles  and  23  chains,  to  lock 
No.  1  as  it  is  called,  although  it  is  properly  lock  No.  2. 
From  lock  No.  1  the  canal  continues  in  a  ravine  53 
chains,  gradually  descending  by  4  locks  of  22  feet 
width ;  and  thence  for  1  mile  and  55  chains  it  winds 
around  the  brow  of  a  hill.  There  are  17  locks  in  this 
distance,  and  60,000  yards  of  rock  excavation.  From 
this  place  the  canal  enters  another  ravine  to  St.  Catha 
rine's,  a  distance  of  2  1-2  miles,  in  which  there  are  12 
locks.  This  may  be  termed  the  mountain  descent,  as 
in  a  distance  of  4  miles  and  72  1-2  chains  from  lock  No. 
1,  there  are  32  locks,  with  a  declination  of  322  feet, 
22  feet  wide  and  100  feet  in  the  pool.  From  this  to 
lake  Ontario,  a  distance  of  5  miles,  the  canal  is  mostly 
in  the  bed  of  the  Twelve  Mile  creek.  There  are  three 
locks  in  this  section,  including  the  one  at  the  harbor, 
each  32  feet  wide  and  125  feet  long  ;  and  five  positions 
are  taken  for  dams,  one  of  which  is  23  feet  high. 

The  whole  length  of  this  canal  is  43  1-2  miles,  a  lit 
tle  more  than  19  of  which  are  slack  water}  the  total 
amount  of  lockage  331  feet. 


BATTLE  OF  ^UEENSTOW.  277 

The  Deep  Cut  is  considered  the  most  gigantic  artifi 
cial  work  in  America,  if  we  except  the  Desague  near 
Mexico ;  and,  with  the  precipice  of  locks  which  de 
scend  the  mountain  ridge,  forms  altogether  one  of  the 
most  interesting  improvements  of  the  age. 

The  Canadians  anticipate  important  results  to  their 
trade  through  the  medium  of  this  canal ;  and  numerous 
villages  are  already  springing  up  on  its  borders.  Some 
parts  of  New- York  will  also  share  largely  in  its  benefits, 
particularly  the  towns  bordering  on  Lake  Ontario. 

From  the.  Falls  on  the  Canada  side  to  QUEENSTON 
the  distance  is  7  miles,  over  a  good  road  which  passes 
the  former  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Richmond,  since 
owned  by  Sir  Perregrine  Maitland.  Queenston  lies  on 
the  bank  of  the  Niagara,  and  has  little  in  its  appear 
ance  indicating  a  prosperous  or  thriving  village. 

The  battle  of  Queenston  which  was  fought  at  this  place, 
occurred  on  the  13th  of  Oct.  1812.  Gen.  Van  Rens- 
selaer,  who  had  command  of  the  American  troops  at 
Lewiston,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  determined 
on  crossing  over  and  taking  possession  of  Queenston 
heights.  The  crossing  was  effected  before  day  light ; 
and  the  ascent,  which  was  up  a  precipitous  ravine,  ri 
sing  nearly  300  feet  above  the  river,  was  accomplished 
amid  the  fire  of  the  enemy  from  his  breast  works  on  the 
heights.  As  the  Americans  approached,  the  British 
retreated  to  the  village  below  ;  where  their  comman 
dant,  Gen.  BROCK,  in  forming  his  lines  to  reascend  the 
heights,  was  mortally  wounded  by  a  random  shot. 
His  aid,  Col.  M'Donald,  then  took  command  and  as 
cended  the  heights,  where  he  was  also  wounded  mor 
tally.  The  Americans  continued  in  possesion  but  a 
few  hours,  when  they  recrossed  the  river.  The  pickets 


378  BROCK'S  MONUMENT. 

and  breast  works,  though  in  a  state  of  decay,  are  still 
visible.  ^ 

The  spot  on  which  Brock  fell  is  pointed  out  to  stran 
gers.  It  was  in  a  small  field,  since  called  Brock's  lot ; 
and  is  reserved  for  the  erection  of  a  church  at  a  future 
period. 

BROCK'S  MONUMENT 

Is  on  the  heights,  one  fourth  of  a  mile  southwest  of 
the  village  of  Queenston.  It  is  composed  of  free 
stone ;  and,  excepting  the  base,  is  of  a  spiral  form. 
It  is  a  fine  specimen  of  architecture  ;  and  from  its  ele 
vation,  is  seen  for  a  great  many  miles.  Its  height  is 
126  feet ;  and  the  heights  on  which  it  is  erected,  are 
270  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Niagara  river.  The  as 
cent  to  the  top  of  the  monument,  is  by  means  of  wind 
ing  steps,  170  in  number.  It  is  extremely  fatiguing; 
but  the  prospect  afforded  of  the  surrounding  country 
for  50  miles  in  extent,  will  richly  repay  a  tourist  for  the 
time  and  trouble  in  visiting  its  pinnacle.  The  follow 
ing  inscription  appears  on  the  monument  : 

"  The  Legislature  of  Upper  Canada  has  dedicated 
this  monument  to  the  many  civil  and  military  services 
of  the  late  Sir  ISAAC  BROCK,  Knight,  Commander  of 
the  most  honoroble  Order  of  the  Bath,  Provincial  Lieut. 
Governor  and  Major  General,  commanding  his  Majes 
ty's  forces  therein.  He  fell  in  action  on  the  13th  of 
October,  1812,  honored  and  beloved  by  those  whom  he 
governed,  and  deplored  by  his  Sovereign,  to  whose  ser 
vice  his  life  had  been  devoted.  His  remains  are  depos 
ited  in  this  vault,  as  also  his  aid-de-camp,  Lieut.  Colo 
nel  JOHN  M'DONALD,  who  died  of  his  wounds  the  14th 
of  October,  1812,  received  the  day  before  in  action." 


LEWISTON.  279 

FORT  GEORGE,  or  NEWARK,  is  7  miles  north  of 
Queenston,  and  is  located  at  the  entrance  of  the  Niaga 
ra  river  into  Lake  Ontario.  The  village  was  burnt  du- 
the  last  war ;  which  event  was  followed  by  the  burn 
ing  of  several  frontier  villages  on  the  American  shore, 
as  retaliatory.  Fort  George,  near  the  village,  is  the 
most  prominent,  and  perhaps  the  only  object  of  interest 
presented.  It  is  in  a  state  of  tolerable  preservation, 
and  has  generally,  since  the  war,  been  occupied  as  a 
garrison  by  a  small  number  of  soldiers.  The  river  is 
crossed  in  a  horse  boat,  to 

YOUNGSTOWN,  containing  from  40  to  50  houses,  one 
mile  north  of  which,  and  directly  opposite  Newark,  is 
FORT  NIAGARA.*  It  was  built  by  the  French  in  1725, 
passed  into  British  hands  by  the  conquest  of  Canada, 
and  was  surrendered  to  the  U.  States  in  1796.  It  was 
taken  by  the  British  by  surprise  during  the  last  war, 
and  abandoned  on  the  restoration  of  peace.  The 
works  are  now  in  a  state  of  decay. 

LEWISTON  is  7  miles  south  of  Youngstown,  and  is 
directly  opposite  the  village  of  Queenston.  It  is  locat 
ed  at  the  foot  and  termination  of  the  Mountain  Ridge, 
or  alluvial  way,  (noticed  hereafter,)  and  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Niagara  river.  With  the  other  fron 
tier  villages,  it  was  laid  in  ruins  during  the  late  war, 
and  was  deserted  by  its  inhabitants,  from  Dec.  1813, 
to  April,  1815  ;  but  it  is  now  in  a  flourishing  condition, 
and  its  buildings  exhibit  much  taste  and  neatness.  A 


*  This  is  the  place  where  the  celebrated   William 
Morgan  was  confined  after  his  abduction, 


280  LEWISTON. 

ferry  is  established  between  this  place  and  Queenston. 
While  standing  on  the  lofty  bank,  the  rapid  motion  of 
the  river,  with  its  various  eddies,  are  far  from  inviting, 
and  seem  to  forbid  the  idea  of  a  pleasant  passage  : 
but  these  sensations  are  removed  soon  after  entering 
the  boat.  It  is  carried  down  for  a  considerable  dis 
tance  with  much  rapidity,  but  without  danger. — Every 
appearance  confirms  the  supposition,  that  at  this  place 
the  falls  once  poured  their  immense  volumes  of  water, 
but  by  a  constant  abrasion  of  the  cataract,  have  reced 
ed  to  their  present  position,  7  miles  distant. 

Stages  leave  Lewiston  every  morning  at  4  o'clock 
for  Rochester,  distant  80  miles,  passing  on  the  Ridge 
Road,  or  alluvial  way,*  and  reach  Rochester  at  even- 


*  This  ridge  extends  along  the  south  shore  of  Lake 
Ontario,  from  the  Genesee  river  to  Niagara  river,  a  dis 
tance  of  about  80  miles.  The  road  is  handsomely  arch 
ed  in  the  centre,  and  is  generally  from  4  to  8  rods  wide. 
In  some  places  it  is  elevated  120  or  130  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  lake,  from  which  it  is  distant  from  6  to  10 
miles.  The  first  40  miles  from  Lewiston,  of  this  natur 
al  highway,  is  broken  for  a  considerable  extent,  by  log 
roads  or  causeways,  bordered  by  impervious  forests, 
occasionally  relieved  by  the  temporary  huts  of  the  re 
cent  settlers  ;  but  the  remaining  distance  is  unusually 
level,  and,  with  some  intermissions,  bordered  by  a  line 
of  cultivation.  It  is  generally  believed  that  this  was 
once  the  southern  boundary  of  the  lake,  and  that  the 
ridge  was  occasioned  by  the  action  of  the  water.  The 
gravel  and  smooth  stones  of  which  the  ridge  is  com 
posed,  intermingled  with  a  great  variety  of  shells,  leave 
little  room  to  doubt  the  correctness  of  this  opinion.  It 
ia  a  great  natural  curiosity,  and  should  be  travelled 
over  by  the  tourist  in  going  to  or  returning  from  the 
Falls. 


DEVIL'S  HOLE.  281 

ing.  Fare  $3,25.  Stages,  also  run  to  Lockport  every 
day,  distant  20  miles,  passing  through  the  Tuscarora 
village,  occupied  by  a  tribe  of  Indians  of  that  name.* 

In  pursuing  the  route  from  Lewiston  to  the  Falls  on 
the  American  side,  the  traveller  soon  begins  to  climb 
the  height  or  mountain  describing  the  difference  of  al 
titude  between  Lakes  Ontario  and  Erie.  The  ascent  is 
somewhat  precipitous,  but  is  overcome  without  difficul 
ty.  At  the  distance  of  two  miles,  the  top  is  gained, 
and  affords  an  imposing  prospect  of  the  almost  inter 
minable  expanse  below.  The  course  of  the  mighty 
Niagara  is  easily  traced  to  its  outlet;  where,  from 
their  prominence,  are  distinctly  seen,  Forts  Niagara  and 
George.  The  waters  of  the  distant  lake  and  the  sur 
rounding  plains  are  so  charmingly  picturesque,  that  the 
traveller  withdraws  reluctantly,  even  to  participate  in 
the  enjoyment  of  scenes  more  sublime.  Three  and  a 
half  miles  from  Lewiston  is  what  is  called  the 

DEVIL'S  HOLE,  a  most  terrific  gulph,  formed  by  a 
chasm  in  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Niagara,  150  or  200 
feet  deep.  An  angle  of  this  gulph  is  within  a  few  feet 
of  the  road  ;  affording  to  the  passing  traveller,  without 
alighting,  an  opportunity  of  looking  into  the  yawning 


*  Doct.  Spaffbrd,  in  his  Gazetteer  of  New- York,  re 
marks,  that  this  tribe  came  from  N.  Carolina  about 
1712,  and  joined  the  confederacy  of  the  Five  Nations, 
themselves  making  the  Sixth.  They  still  hold  an  in 
terest  in  a  very  large  and  valuable  tract  of  land  in  N. 
Carolina,  which  will  not  be  extinct  before  A.  D.  1911. 
They  also  own  a  very  considerable  tract  of  land  in  this 
state,  deeded  to  them  by  the  Holland  Company. 


282  LAKE   ONTARIO. 

abyss  beneath.  During  the  French  war,  a  detachment 
of  the  British  army,  while  retreating  from  Schlosser  in 
the  night,  before  a  superior  force  of  French  and  Indians, 
were  destroyed  at  this  place.  Officers,  soldiers,  wo 
men  and  children,  with  their  horses,  waggons,  bag 
gage,  &c.  were  all  precipitated  down  the  gulph.  Those 
who  were  not  drowned  in  the  river  were  dashed  in 
pieces  on  the  naked  rocks  ! 

The  WHIRLPOOL  is  one  mile  farther  south.  It  is 
formed  by  a  short  turn  in  the  river,  and  can  be  viewed 
on  either  side :  though  the  best  view,  connected  with 
the  rapids,  is  on  the  American  shore.  One  mile  far 
ther,  is  a 

SULPHUR  SPRING,  used  principally  for  bathing. 

The  AMERICAN  FALL  at  Manchester,  is  a  mile  and  a 
half  farther,  and  has  been  already  noticed  in  this  work. 

LAKE  ONTARIO. 

This  lake  is  in  length  171  miles,  and  in  circumference 
467.  In  many  places  its  depth  has  not  been  ascertain 
ed.  In  the  middle  a  line  of  350  fathoms  has  been  let 
down  without  rinding  bottom.  Of  the  many  islands 
which  this  lake  contains,  the  principal  is  Grand  Isle, 
opposite  to  Kingston.  At  this  place  the  lake  is  about 
10  miles  in  width,  and  from  thence  it  gradually  con 
tracts  until  it  reaches  Brockville,  a  distance  of  about 
50  miles,  where  its  width  is  not  over  2  miles.  About  40 
miles  of  this  distance  is  filled  with  a  continued  cluster 
of  small  islands,  which  from  their  number  have  been 
distinguished  by  the  name  of  the  Thousand  Islands. 

Though  inferior  in  its  extent  to  the  remaining  4  great 
western  lakes,  Ontario  is  far  from  being  the  least  inter- 


ROUTE  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  MONTREAL.          283 

esting.  The  north*east  shore  of  the  lake  consists  prin 
cipally  oflow  land,  and  is  in  many  places  marshy.  On 
the  north  and  north-west  it  is  more  elevated,  and  grad 
ually  suf^ndes  towards  the  south.  The  margin  of  the 
lake  is  generally  bordered  by  thick  forests,  through 
which  are  occasionally  seen  little  settlements  surround 
ed  with  rich  fields  of  cultivation,  terminated  by  lofty 
ridges  of  land  here  and  there  assuming  the  character 
of  mountains.  Some  of  the  highest  elevations  of  land 
are  the  cliffs  of  Torento,  the  Devil's  Nose,  and  the  Fif 
ty  Mile  Hill.  The  principal  rivers  which  empty  into 
the  lake  on  the  south,  are  the  Genesee  and  Oswego. 
York,  Kingston  and  Sacket's  Harbour,  all  situated  on 
the  borders  of  the  lake,  are  well  known  in  connexion 
with  the  history  of  the  late  war. 

ROUTE  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  MONTREAL. 

By  the  present  arrangement,  the  BRITISH  steam 
boats  leave  Queenston  for  Prescott,  on  Lake  Ontario, 
every  Tuesday,  Thursday  and  Saturday  at  8  A.  M. 
touching  at  York,  Kingston  and  Brock  ville — fare  $10. 
From  Prescott  a  stage  is  taken  for  Cornwall,  50  miles ; 
from  thence  a  steam  boat  to  Coteau  du  Lac,  4  miles  ; 
from  thence  a  coach  to  the  Cascades,  16  miles  ;  from 
thence  a  steam-boat  to  Lachine  24  miles ;  and  from 
thence  a  coach  to  Montreal,  9  miles. 

The  AMERICAN  boat  leaves  Lewiston  every  Monday 
for  Ogdensburgh,  distant  268  miles,  touching  at  Fort 
Niagara,  Genesee  river,  Oswego,  Sacket's  Harbor, 
Cape  Vincent,  French  creek  and  Morristown.  From 
Ogdensburgh,  a  stage  is  generally  taken  for  Montreal ; 
though  passage  boats,  which  descend  as  far  as  Lachine, 
are  sometimes  preferred.  z 


284  CHARLOTTE OSWEGO. 

From  Lewiston  to  Montreal  is  385  miles,  and  the 
intervening  distances  are  estimated  as  follows : 

Miles.  Miles. 


Fort  Niagara, 7 

Genesee  River,. .....  74 

Great  Sodus  Bay, ....  35 

Oswego  River, 28 

Sacket's  Harbor,....  40 

Cape  Vincent, 20 

Morristown, 50 


Ogdensburgh, 12 

Gallop  Islands, 5 

Hamilton, 19 

St.  Regis, 35 

La  Chine, 53 

Montreal, 7 


FORT  NIAGARA,  7  miles  from  Lewiston.  (See  p.  279.) 

CHARLOTTE,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee  river,  74 
miles  from  Lewiston,  is  a  port  of  entry  where  there  is 
a  light-house,  and  the  commencement  of  extensive 
piers  building  by  the  United  States,  for  improving  the 
navigation.  The  river  is  navigable  to  the  Carthage 
falls,*  4  miles ;  from  thence  to  Rochester*  is  2  miles  ; 
to  which  place  passengers  can  always  be  conveyed  by 
stages  in  readiness  on  the  arrival  of  the  boat. 

GREAT  SODUS  BAT,  35  miles.  This  embraces  Easty 
Port  and  Little  Sodus  Bays,  and  has  three  islands  of 
considerable  size.  The  whole  circumference  of  the 
bay,  with  its  coves  and  points,  is  about  15  miles.  Its 
waters  are  deep  and  clear,  and  its  shores  have  several 
elegant  sites  for  buildings. 

OSWEGO,  28  miles.  This  village  is  situate  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Oswego  river ;  and  within  a  few  years 
has  rapidly  increased  in  size  and  population.  The 
falls  in  the  river  at  this  place  afford  extensive  facilities 


*For  a  description  of  these  places,  see  pages  250  to 
255. 


SACKET'S  HARBOR — MORRISTOWN.         285 

for  manufacturing  operations  ;  added  to  which,  what 
is  called  the  Oswego  canal  here  terminates,  uniting 
with  the  Erie  canal  at  Syracuse,  38  miles  distant.  An 
extensive  pier  has  been  recently  erected  here,  affording 
a  safe  and  beautiful  harbor  for  boats  and  sloops. 

Foils  Oswego  and  Ontario  are  at  this  place.  The 
first  was  erected  in  1727,  and  the  latter  in  1755. 
Both  were  besieged  by  Gen.  Montcalm  in  1756,  with 
3000  troops  and  two  vessels.  Fort  Ontario  was  soon 
evacuated  by  the  English,  which  was  followed  by  the 
surrender  of  Fort  Oswego,  with  a  large  quantity  of 
stores,  cannon,  two  sloops  and  nearly  200  boats.  The 
position,  however,  having  been  held  a  short  time  by 
the  French,  was  abandoned. 

During  the  last  war,  the  place  was  taken  by  the 
British,  after  a  loss  of  about  100  men  ;  but  was  evac 
uated  immediately  afterwards. 

SACKET'S  HARBOR,  40  miles.  This  was  an  import 
ant  military  and  naval  station  during  the  last  war. 
The  Barracks  are  situate  about  400  yards  north-easter 
ly  of  the  village  on  the  shore.  They  are  a  solid  range 
of  stone  buildings,  and  add  much  to  the  appearance  of 
the  place.  Two  forts  erected  during  the  war  are  now  in 
ruins.  On  Navy-Point,  which  forms  the  harbor,  there 
is  a  large  ship  of  war  on  the  stocks  j  but  which,  proba 
bly,  will  never  be  finished. 

CAPE  VINCENT,  20  miles.  Kingston  in  Upper  Can 
ada,  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  11  miles  distant, 
with  Grand  Island  intervening. 

MORRSTOWN,  50  miles.  The  river  here  is  but  a  mile 
and  a  quarter  wide ;  on  the  opposite  side  of  which, 
is  the  village  of  Brock ville. 


2»0  OGDENSBURGH. 

OGDENSBURGH,  which  terminates  the  passage  of  the 
steam-boat,  is  12  miles  farther,  and  is  situated  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Oswegatche  river,  at  its  confluence 
with  the  St.  Lawrence.  This  is  a  thriving  little  village, 
containing  about  200  houses,  and  a  population  of  about 
1000  inhabitants.  A  military  fortification,  consisting 
of  two  stone  buildings  and  a  number  of  wooden  bar 
racks  was  formerly  erected  here  by  the  British  gov 
ernment,  but  was  ceded  to  the  United  States  in  1796. 

A  regular  stage  leaves  Ogdensburgh  three  times  a 
week  for  Plattsburgh  ;  from  whence  a  steam-boat  can 
be  taken  on  Lake  Champlain  for  St.  John's  or  White 
hall. 

Stages  also  arrive  and  depart  every  week,  to  and  from 
Montreal ;  and  by  crossing  the  river,  a  stage  can  be 
taken  at  Prescott  for  that  place  daily.  Passage  boats, 
also,  leave  Ogdensburgh  about  every  day,  and  descend 
the  river  as  far  as  La  Chine,  7  miles  above  Montreal, 
in  3  days.  The  boats  are  usually  furnished  with  every 
necessary  implement  for  their  good  management,  and 
with  skilful  pilots.  The  latter  are  more  particularly  re 
quisite,  as  the  current  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  generally 
very  rapid,  and  obstructed  by  numerous  shoals  and  is 
lands,  which  by  an  inexperienced  navigator  could  not 
without  difficulty  be  avoided.  The  principal  rapids  are 
three  in  number — the  Longue  Sault,  the  Rapids  of  the 
Cedars*  and  the  Cascades  of  St.  Louis.  The  first  of 


*It  was  at  this  place  that  Gen.  Amherst's  brigade  of 
300  men,  coming  to  attack  Canada,  were  lost.  The 
French  at  Montreal  received  the  first  intelligence  of 
the  invasion,  by  the  dead  bodies  floating  past  the  town. 


GALLOP  ISLANDS.  287 

these  are  9  miles  in  length,  and  are  usually  passed  in  20 
minutes,  which  is  at  the  rate  of  27  miles  an  hour.  The 
rapids  of  the  Cedars  terminate  about  3  miles  from  the 
Cascades,  which,  after  a  broken  course  of  about  2 
miles,  pour  their  foaming  waters  into  Lake  St.  Louis. 
Lake  St.  Francis,  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  25  miles  long, 
and  its. greatest  breadth  15.  The  borders  of  the  lake 
are  so  low  that  they  can  scarcely  be  distinguished  in 
passing  along  its  centre.  At  the  northern  extremity  of 
Lake  St.  Francis,  on  its  south  side,  is  situated  the  vil 
lage  of  St.  Regis,  through  which  passes  the  boundary 
line  between  the  Canadas  and  the  United  States. 

The  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  exhibit  a  country  re 
markably  fertile,  and  in  many  places  under  good  culti 
vation. 

The  first  settlements  in  this  region  commenced  in 
1783,  and  though  scarcely  50  years  have  elapsed,  it  now 
exhibits  many  of  the  embellishments  incident  to  a  nu 
merous  population  and  successful  improvement.  The 
perpetual  varying  scenery  along  its  banks,  occasionally 
diversified  with  smiling  fields  and  flourishing  villages, 
together  with  the  islands  and  rapids  of  the  St.  Law 
rence,  present  a  succession  of  novelties  with  which  the 
traveller  cannot  fail  to  be  gratified. 

GALLOP  ISLANDS,  5  miles  from  Ogdensburgh.  The 
river  is  here  divided  into  two  currents,  the  commence 
ment  of  the  great  rapids  below.  From  these  rapids, 


The  pilot  who  conducted  their  first  batteaux  commit 
ted  an  error  by  running  into  the  wrong  channel,  and 
the  other  batteau  following  close,  all  were  involved  in 
the  same  destruction. 

z2 


288  MONTREAL. 

the  river  descends  231  feet  in  280  miles.  On  Stoney 
Island,  (one  of  the  Gallop  cluster,)  the  French  had  a 
strong  fortress,  which  was  taken  and  demolished  by 
Gen.  Amherst,  in  1760. 

ST.  REGIS,  54  miles,  is  a  village  occupied  by  a  tribe  of 
Indians  of  that  name,  who  have  a  reservation  of  land 
here  of  considerable  extent.  One  of  their  chiefs,  aged 
about  90,  remarked  to  a  gentleman  of  our  accquaint- 
ance  a  short  time  since,  that  he  visited  the  High  Rock 
Spring  at  Saratoga  between  60  and  70  years  ago,  when 
the  water  flowed  over  the  top  of  the  aperture.* 

LACHINE,  53  miles.  From  thence  to  Montreal,  which 
is  7  miles  farther,  the  river  road  is  generally  preferred  ; 
from  which  a  charming  view  of  the  rapids  and  of  sever 
al  islands  is  enjoyed.  It  also  crosses  the  Lachine  ca 
nal. 

MONTREAL 

Is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  island  of  the 
same  name,  131  miles  from  Ogdensburgh,  and  170 
from  Quebec.  The  length  of  the  island  is  30  miles,  its 
mean  breadth  7,  and  its  circumference  about  70.  The 
city  extends  along  the  St.  Lawrence,  about  2  miles  in 
length,  and  half  a  mile  in  width.  The  buildings  are 
mostly  constructed  of  stone,  and  arranged  on  regularly 
disposed  but  narrow  streets.  A  stone  wall  formerly 
encircled  the  city,  which,  by  the  sanction  of  the  gov- 


*No  one  living  near  the  Spring  remembers  to  have 
seen  the  water  rise  higher  than  within  8  or  10  inches  of 
the  top  of  the  rock.  At  present  it  is  considerably  lower. 


MONTREAL.  289 

eminent,  was  some  years  ago  totally  demolished. 
Montreal  is  divided  into  the  upper  and  lower  towns. 
The  latter  of  these  contains  the  Hotel  Dieu,  founded 
in  1644,  and  under  a  superior  and  thirty  nuns,  whose 
occupation  is  to  administer  relief  to  the  sick,  who  are 
received  into  that  hospital.  The  French  government 
formerly  contributed  to  the  support  of  this  institution  ; 
but  since  the  revolution  which  occasioned  the  loss  of 
its  principal  funds,  then  vested  in  Paris,  its  resources 
have  been  confined  to  the  avails  of  some  property  in 
land.  The  upper  town  contains  the  Cathedral,  the 
English  Church,  the  Seminary,  the  Convent  of  Recol- 
lets,  and  that  of  the  Sisters  of  Notre  Dame.  The 
general  hospital,  or  Convent  of  the  Grey  Sisters,  is  sit 
uated  on  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  a  little  distance 
from  the  town,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  small  riv 
ulet.  This  institution  was  established  in  1753,  and  is 
under  the  management  of  a  superior  and  19  nuns. 

Some  of  the  public  buildings  are  beautiful.  Among 
these,  the  new  Catholic  Church,  in  grandeur,  capacious 
ness,  style  and  decoration,  is  probably  not  exceeded  by 
any  edifice  in  America.  It  is  255  feet  long,  and  34  feet 
wide,  and  is  sufficiently  capacious  to  hold  10,000  per 
sons. 

Nelson's  Monument,  near  the  Market  Place,  is  an  ob 
ject  also  meriting  an  accurate  survey. 

The  Museum  belonging  to  the  Society  of  Natural  His 
tory  contains  a  numerous  assemblage  of  indigenous  and 
exotic  specimens,  an  examination  of  which  will  prove 
highly  interesting  to  visitors  of  taste  and  science. 


290  MONTREAL. 

A  visit  to  the  Nunneries  can  generally  be  effected 
without  difficulty  j  though  a  trifling  purchase  of  some 
of  the  manufactures  of  the  nuns  is  generally  expected. 

The  College  is  a  large  stone  edifice,  3  stories  high, 
and  has  a  spacious  yard  on  the  south,  adjoining  to 
which  is  a  beautiful  garden.  It  generally  contains 
about  300  students,  and  the  terms  of  tuition  are  80  dol 
lars  per  annum.  Connected  with  the  college  there  is 
also  a  preparatory  school,  under  excellent  regulations. 

The  Parade  is  a  beautiful  public  ground  on  which  the 
troops  are  usually  drilled. 

The  prevailing  religion  here,  as  well  as  at  Quebec,  is 
the  Roman  Catholic.  The  clergy  derive  a  revenue  from 
grants  of  land  made  to  them  under  the  ancient  regime, 
and  from  contributions  ordained  by  the  church.  Be 
sides  these,  a  principal  source  of  revenue  is  from  the 
fines  for  alienation,  which  amount  to  about  8  per  cent, 
paid  by  the  purchaser  of  real  estate,  every  time  the 
same  is  sold,  and  which  extends  to  sales  of  all  real  es 
tates  in  the  seignory  or  island  of  Montreal. 

The  city,  including  its  subburbs,  contains  rising  of 
30,000  inhabitants. 

The  Mountain  of  Montreal,  from  which  the  city  takes 
its  name,  rises  about  2  1-2  miles  distant.  It  is  elevat 
ed  700  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  and  extends 
frora  north  to  south  2  miles.  This  spot  has  already 
been  selected  for  the  residence  of  some  private  gentle 
men,  whose  elegant  white  mansions  appear  beautiful 
in  contrast  with  the  surrounding  foliage.  The  island 
of  St.  Helena,  immediately  opposite  the  city,  is  a  de 
lightful  little  spot,  from  whence  is  had  a  fine  view  of 
Montreal,  with  its  lofty  mountain  in  the  back  ground, 


FROM  MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC.       291 

the  settlement  of  Longueil,  St.  Lambert  and  La  Prairie 
de  la  Madalene,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  and  the 
waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  dashing  over  the  rocks  of 
La  Chine,  and  sweeping  their  course  around  a  variety 
of  islands. 

The  principal  public  houses  in  the  city  are,  Masonic 
Hall,  in  the  north  part ;  Goodenough's,  St.  Paul  street ; 
and  Mansion-House,  do. 

FROM  MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC— 170  MILES. 

The  St.  Lawrence  from  Montreal  to  Quebec  is  navi 
gated  by  a  number  of  excellent  steam-boats,  and  the 
passage  between  the  two  cities  is  delightful.  A  large 
majority  of  the  inhabitants  of  Lower  Canada  are  crowd 
ed  together  near  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and 
few  interruptions  of  forrest  land  intervene  in  the  whole 
distance  between  the  two  principal  cities.  The  dwell 
ings  and  cultivated  grounds  are  so  frequent  and  con 
tinuous,  that  each  side  of  the  river,  in  fact,  becomes  al 
most  an  unbroken  street ;  with  groupes  of  houses  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  several  churches,  which  are  erected 
generally  in  sight  of  the  passing  steam-boat,  except  on 
Lake  St.  Peter.  The  churches  are  from  six  to  nine 
miles  distant  from  each  other,  and  upwards  of  twenty  in 
number,  forming,  many  of  them,  prominent  objects  to 
give  embellishment  and  charm  to  the  novel  and  otherwise 
very  attractive  scenery.  All  travelleres  sleep  one  night 
at  least  on  board  the  steam-boat  while  journeying  be 
tween  the  two  cities ;  and  it  is  recommended  that  they 
should  arrange  the  hour  of  departure  from  Quebec, 
(which  is  always  at  low  water)  so  that  they  may  view 
by  day-light  that  part  of  the  river  which  had  been  be- 


292  WILLIAM    HENRY. 

fore  passed  in  the  night.  A  journey  to  Quebec  and 
back  again,  which  ten  or  twelve  years  since  was  the 
labor  of  some  weeks,  may  now  be  accomplished,  by 
means  of  steam-boats,  in  less  than  three  days.  The 
distance  between  the  two  cities  is  170  miles. 

From  Montreal,  the  boat  first  passes  near  the  Fort 
on  St.  Helen's  Island  and  soon  enters  the  rapids  of  St. 
Mary ;  in  returning  up  which,  steam-boats  are  often 
drawn  by  cattle.  Proceeding  down  the  river,  the  vil 
lages  of  Longueil,  Longue  Pointe,  Vercheres,  Varennes, 
Point  aux  Trembles,  Contrecoeur,  Repentigny,  St.  Sul- 
pice,  La  Morage,  Berthier  and  Machiche  are  succes 
sively  passed,  before  reaching  the  town  of 

WILLIAM  HENRY,  which  is  40  miles  from  Montreal. 
It  stands  on  the  site  of  an  old  fort,  built  in  1665,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  river  Sorel,  at  its  confluence  with 
the  St.  Lawrence.  The  present  town  was  commenc 
ed  in  1785.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  with  streets,  cross 
ing  each  other  at  right  angles,  leaving  a  space  in  the 
centre  about  500  feet  square.  The  number  of  dwell 
ings  does  not  exceeed  200,  and  its  population  2000. 
Near  the  town  is  a  seat  which  was  formerly  the  resi 
dence  of  the  Governor  General  of  Canada,  during  the 
summer  months.  Opposite  the  town,  the  river  Sorel 
is  250  yards  broad,  and  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  150 
tons,  for  twelve  or  fourteen  miles.  On  this  river, 
which  unites  the  waters  of  Lake  Champlain  with  the 
St.  Lawrence,  are  two  considerable  forts,  the  one  at 
St.  John's  and  the  other  at  Chambly.  Sorel  was  occu 
pied  in  May,  1776,  by  a  part  of  the  American  army, 
under  General  Thomas,  on  their  retreat  from  Quebec. 


THREE   RIVERS.  293 

Lake  St.  Peter,  some  miles  below  the  town  of  Sorel, 
is  formed  by  an  expansion  of  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  to 
15  or  20  miles  in  width,  and  21  in  length.  The  wa 
ters  of  the  lake  have  but  little  current,  and  are  from  8 
to  1 1  feet  deep.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  lake  a  varie 
ty  of  small  islands  are  interspersed,  which  are  the  on 
ly  ones  that  occur  in  the  St.  Lawrence  till  you  reach  the 
island  of  Orleans,  a  distance  of  117  miles.  On  the 
north  side  of  this  lake  is  the  town  of 

THREE  RIVERS,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Maurice, 
which  is  divided  by  two  small  islands  into  three  branch 
es.  This  town  was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Colonial 
Government,  and  is  now  considered  the  third  in  im 
portance  in  the  Province.  It  contains  about  400  houses, 
including  a  Roman  Catholic  and  an  Episcopal  church, 
and  a  Convent  of  Ursulines — also  the  barracks  former 
ly  occupied  by  the  governor,  during  the  French  regime. 
The  number  of  inhabitants  is  estimated  at  3000.  Some 
miles  up  the  St.  Maurice  are  the  celebrated  falls  of 
Shawinnegame,  a  beautiful  cataract  of  about  100  feet 
descent. 

Seven  miles  below  Three  Rivers,  the  Richelieu  rapids 
commence.  The  river  is  compressed  within  less  than 
half  a  mile  in  width,  and  the  water  moves  with  great 
velocity  for  three  or  four  miles ;  but  being  deep  and 
the  current  unbroken,  except  at  the  shores,  the  descent 
is  made  by  steam-boats  without  danger,  except  in  the 
the  night,  when  a  descent  is  never  attempted. 

The  scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  occasionally  re 
lieved  by  the  prospect  of  the  distant  mountains,  the 
highest  of  which  does  not  exceed  1000  feet,  but  rising 
in  the  back  ground  of  the  cultivated  vales  along  the 


294  QUEBEC. 

borders  of  the  river,  give  an  additional  degree  of  1  ?auty 
and  novelty  to  many  of  its  landscapes.  The  alternate 
variety  of  the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  now  repos 
ing  in  stillness  on  the  bosom  of  an  expanded  lake,  and 
now  rushing  with  the  rapidity  of  a  cataract,  added  to 
the  pleasing  effect  of  the  landscape  scenery,  afford  an 
agreeable  repast  to  the  tourist,  until  he  reaches  the 
classic  scenes  of  Quebec.  Soon  after  leaving  Cape 
Rouge  and  the  little  village  of  St.  Nicholas,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  river,  the  towers  and  citadel  of 
this  famous  city  open  to  view,  situated  on  a  rock  of 
345  feet  in  height,  called  Cape  Diamond,  from  the 
gem-like  quality  of  the  chrystals  which  are  found  in 
termingled  with  the  granite  beneath  its  surface.  In 
approaching  the  city,  you  pass  Sillery  River  and  Cove, 
and  Wolfe's  Cove,  where  he  landed  his  army  to  gain 
the  heights  of  Abraham,  about  1  1-2  miles  from  Que 
bec.  Point  Levi  appears  on  the  right,  a  rocky  preci 
pice,  covered  with  white  dwellings,  and  commanding 
the  citadel  of  Quebec  from  the  opposite  shore. 

QUEBEC* 

Is  situated  upon  a  high  peninsular  point  of  land, 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Rivers  St.  Lawrence  and  St. 
Charles,  the  junction  of  which  forms  a  capacious  and 
beautiful  bay  and  harbour. 

From  the  New  Exchange  at  the  extremity  of  the 
point  on  the  north-east,  the  limits  of  the  city  jurisdic- 


*  For  a  description  of  this  place,  the  editor  is  princi 
pally  indebted  to  a  valuable  work,  entitled  "  The  Pic 
ture  of  Quebec,"  published  in  that  city  in  1829. 


QUEBEC.  295 

lion  extend  in  a  direct  line  about  north-west  to  a  bend 
in  the  St.  Charles  River,  near  the  General  Hospital. 
On  the  St.  Lawrence  River  the  south-west  point  of  the 
Banlieu  is  about  equi-distant  from  the  Exchange,  the 
whole  plat  approximating  to  a  triangle,  the  longest 
side  of  which  passes  a  short  distance  to  the  west  of  the 
Martello  Towers,  measuring  one  mile  and  five  furlongs 
or  2860  yards  from  the  St.  Charles  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 

A  straight  line  drawn  from  one  river  to  the  other,  at 
the  Barrier  on  the  south  and  west,  is  rather  more  than 
a  mile  in  length,  and  the  whole  wall  is  two  miles  and 
three  quarters  in  circuit ;  but  including  the  Citadel,  the 
Esplanade,  the  different  large  gardens,  and  other  va 
cant  spaces,  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  interior 
area  within  the  fortification  remains  unoccupied  for 
buildings. 

The  city  and  environs  are  thus  subdivided  :  That 
part  which  is  within  the  walls  is  called  the  Upper 
Town,  and  can  be  approached  solely  by  five  gates.  On 
the  eastern  side  of  the  Cape  towards  the  St.  Lawrence, 
there  is  only  one  avenue  to  enter  it,  by  a  circuitous 
steep  hill,  through  Prescott  Gate  ;  which  is  the  chief 
thoroughfare  for  all  the  commercial  business  of  the 
port,  especially  during  the  navigable  season,  and  then 
Mountain  street,  as  this  route  is  named,  presents  the 
appearance  of  a  crowded  and  active  population.  On 
the  north  of  the  city,  and  where  the  promontory  has 
considerably  declined  in  height,  there  are  two  entran 
ces — Hope  Gate,  not  far  from  the  eastern  extremity  of 
the  rampart,  and  Palace  Gate  adjoining  the  Armoury 
and  the  Artillery  Barracks.  These  gates  are  on  that 
side  of  the  city  which  is  washed  by  the  St..  Charles. 


296  QUEBEC. 

From  the  land  there  are  two  avenues  to  the  interior  of 
the  fortifications  :  that  to  the  east  is  known  as  the  St. 
Louis  Gate,  which  conducts  by  a  beautiful  road  to  the 
Plains  of  Abraham  ;  the  other  is  at  the  end  of  St.  John 
street,  and  thence  denominated  St.  John's  Gate.  This 
is  the  route  through  which  the  chief  part  of  the  country 
trade  passes. 

The  long  street  from  the  termination  of  the  Banlieu 
on  the  south-west,  upon  the  St.  Lawrence,  skirting  the 
Cape  round  to  the  Wood  Yard  belonging  to  the  Gov 
ernment,  including  Mountain  street  to  the  Prescott 
Gate,  and  all  the  other  shorter  streets  between  the  hill 
and  the  river,  are  generally  denominated  the  Lower 
Town.  The  portion  between  the  road  outside  of  the 
Gates  of  St.  Louis  and  that  of  St.  John  street,  to  the 
line  of  the  Banlieu,  is  called  the  suburbs  of  St.  Louis. 
From  St.  John  street  northerly  to  the  Cote  St.  Gene- 
vieve,  and  returning  to  the  end  of  the  Banlieu,  all  the 
buildings  are  included  in  the  St.  John  suburbs ;  and 
the  large  district  extending  from  the  Wood  Yard  along 
by  the  foot  of  the  hill  to  the  western  extremity  of  the 
Banlien,  and  bounded  on  the  north-west  by  the  St. 
Charles  River,  bears  the  appellation  of  the  suburbs  of 
St.  Roch. 

As  travellers  are  generally  restricted  to  time,  they 
have  often  failed  to  gratify  their  curiosity  for  want  of  a 
directory  or  guide,  by  which  they  might  with  the  great 
est  facility  view  the  most  important  objects,  and  also 
from  not  having  previously  obtained  a  letter  of  intro 
duction  to  some  respectable  citizen  who  would  ac 
company  them  in  their  explorations.  To  remove  these 
obstacles,  the  following  methodical  plan  of  an  excur- 


QUEBEC.  297 

seon  through  the  city,  and  the  accompanying  descrip 
tions  are  given.  They  will  be  found  to  be  accurate, 
and  will  save  the  tourist  from  innumerable  perplexities, 
to  which  he  would  otherwise  be  subjected. 

Taking  the  Upper  Town  Market-House  as  the  place 
of  departure,  the  observer  has  on  the  west  the  ancient 
Monastery  of  the  Jesuits,  now  used  as  the  Barracks 
for  the  troops  of  the  garrison.  It  is  a  capacious  quad 
rangular  edifice  of  75  yards  by  67,  encircled  by  a  wall 
which  measures  on  the  north  the  whole  length  of  Fab- 
rique  street,  and  more  than  200  yards  on  St.  Anne  gt- 
The  area  enclosed,  and  which  now  is  appropriated  for 
the  parades  and  exercise  of  the  troops,  was  formerly 
an  elegant  garden.  Fronting  on  the  east  side  of  Mark 
et-Place  is  the  principal 

Roman  Catholic  Church,  which  is  open  nearly  the 
whole  hours  of  day-light.  It  is  a  massive  unornament- 
ed  and  spacious  stone  building.  From  the  vestibule, 
the  body  of  the  interior  is  subdivided  into  equal  pro 
portions.  At  the  termination  of  the  nave  is  the  grand 
altar  in  the  middle  of  the  ellipse  constituting  the  sanc 
tum,  the  walls  of  which  are  ornamented  with  represen 
tations  and  figures,  commingled  with  various  other 
graphical  emblems.  Among  the  pictures  are  the  con 
ception — the  Apostle  Paul  in  his  extatic  vision — the 
Saviour  ministered  unto  by  angels — the  flight  of  Jo 
seph  and  Mary — the  Redeemer  on  the  cross — the  na 
tivity  of  Christ — the  Saviour  under  the  contumelious 
outrages  of  the  soldiers — the  day  of  Pentecost — and  the 
Holy  Family.  During  the  siege  of  Quebec,  in  1759,  this 
church  was  set  on  fire  by  shells  discharged  from  a  bat 
tery  on  Point  Levi,  and  all  the  paintings  and  ornaments 


298  QUEBEC. 

consumed  except  the  first  above  mentioned,  which  was 
afterwards  found  among  the  ruins.  The  avenue  north 
of  the  church  conducts  the  tourist  to 

The  Seminary,  a  capacious  superstructure  of  stone, 
in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram.  It  is  encircled  by  a 
large  garden,  wallecf  in,  measuring  in  the  whole  about 
seven  acres.  This  institution  was  established  in  1663, 
and  was  originally  designed  for  the  education  of  eccle 
siastics  ;  but  this  exclusive  system  was  long  since  a- 
bandoned,  and  it  is  now  open  for  the  reception  of  all 
who  comply  with  its  regulations.  Attached  to  the 
Seminary  is  a  museum  of  natural  curiosities ;  and  on 
the  left  of  the  grand  enterance  from  Market-Place  is 
the  vestibule  of  the  chapel,  in  which  are  a  great  varie 
ty  of  sacred  paintings.  From  this  the  tourist  can  pro 
ceed  to  the  church  ;  and  from  thence  to  the 

Place  d'Armes,  where,  on  the  east  of  the  Pentagon  is 
the  Castle  of  St.  Lewis,  the  residence  of  the  Governor, 
and  which,  from  its  peculiar  situation,  constitutes  one  of 
the  principal  objects  of  notice  in  all  views  of  the  city, 
from  Beaufort  easterly  to  the  Chaudiere.  At  its  base, 
the  rock  is  nearly  200  feet  in  perpendicular  height, 
and  the  building  on  the  cast  is  sustained  by  strong 
stone  buttresses,  on  which  is  laid  a  wide  balcony  ex 
tending  along  the  whole  length,  and  whence  the  beau 
ties  of  the  northern  and  eastern  landscape  are  beheld. 
The  building  is  three  stories  high,  and  about  160  feet 
long  ;  and  attached  to  it  are  several  buildings  contain 
ing  the  public  offices.  On  the  west  corner  of  the 
Place  d'Armes  stood  the  Episcopal  church,  which  has 
been  lately  burnt.  On  the  south  side,  and  nearly  ad 
joining,  is  the 


QUEBEC.  299 

Court  House,  a  plain  neat  building  of  stone  about  140 
feet  long,  and  as  many  broad.  It  stands  where  once 
stood  a  church  belonging  to  the  order  of  the  Recollets, 
which  was  burnt  in  1796. 

On  the  corner  of  Fort  street,  south  of  the  castle  of 
St.  Lewis,  is  a  large  building  used  for  public  offices,  the 
front  room  of  which,  on  the  first  story,  contains  the 
Museum  of  the  "Society  for  promoting  Literature,  Sci 
ence,  Arts  and  Historical  research  in  Canada."  A  visit 
to  it  will  prove  extremely  interesting.  Crossing  the 
Place  d'Armes  to  Des  Carrieres  street,  the  visitor  will 
next  inspect  the 

Monument,  erected  in  memory  of  Wolfe  and  Mont- 
calm.  This  consists  of  a  base  and  a  pillar,  surmount 
ed  by  a  vignette  of  graphic  delineation.  The  base  is  a- 
bout  6  by  5  feet,  and  the  whole  height  of  the  monument 
is  sixty-five  feet.  It  contains  two  Latin  inscriptions. 
After  viewing  from  the  promenade  at  the  exterior  of 
the  Governor's  quarters  the  beauteous  landscape  di 
verging  to  the  north-east,  the  visitor  will  return  to  St. 
Lewis  street,  where,  after  passing  the  office  of  the 
Commissariat,  he  will  turn  by  Parloir  street  to  the 

Ursuline  Nunnery  and  Church.  This  Nunnery  and 
the  land  adjoining  it  occupy  a  space  of  about  seven  a- 
cres  which  is  surrounded  by  a  high  barrier  of  stone. 
The  institution  was  founded  in  1639,  and  the  edifice,] 
which  is  of  stone,  is  two  stories  high,  114  feet  long,| 
and  about  40  broad.  At  the  cast  projection  ia  the 
chapel,  about  100  feet  long  and  50  in  breadth,  the 
interior  of  which  is  highly  decorated.  The  convent  is 
neat,  and  includes  a  superior,  42  assistants  and  7  nov 
ices,  the  chief  employment  of  whom  is  the  tuition  of  a 

AA2 


300  QUEBEC. 

large  number  of  girls  in  common  knowledge  and  other 
qualifications.  They  are  more  rigid  and  retired  than 
the  inmates  of  any  other  conventual  institution  in  Can 
ada.  Persons  of  distinction  only  are  permitted  to  ex 
amine  the  domestic  departments  ;  but  the  Chaplain, 
whose  apartments  are  on  the  right  of  the  entrance,  per 
mits  strangers  to  examine  the  church  on  application 
to  him.  Among  the  paintings  there  exhibited,  are  the 
portraits  of  some  of  the  Popes — the  birth  of  Immanuel 
— the  Saviour  exhibiting  his  heart  to  the  Religieuses — 
the  Saviour  taken  down  from  the  cross — a  cargo  of 
Christians  captured  by  the  Algerines — Louis  xm  of 
France — and  several  devices  taken  from  the  scriptures. 
The  altars  are  highly  ornamented  and  imposing. 

Leaving  the  nunnery,  the  visitor  will  next  proceed  by 
Anne  street,  with  the  south  wing  of  the  barracks  on 
his  right  to  the  Presbyterian  church.  Passing  its  front 
he  will  leave  the  jail  on  the  right,  where  he  pursues 
his  course  to  the 

Esplanade.  If  he  has  no  citizen  as  a  companion,  and 
no  other  mode  of  visiting  the  fortification,  he  should 
turn  up  St.  Ursule  to  St.  Louis  street,  and  at  the  mili 
tary  offices  request  from  the  adjutant  general  a  card  of 
admission  to  walk  round  the  interior  of  the 

Citadel.  This  stupendous  fortress  circumscribes  the 
whole  area  on  the  highest  part  of  Cape  Diamond,  and 
is  intended  not  only  to  accommodate  the  garrison  as  a 
residence,  parade,  &c.  but  also  to  include  all  the  mate 
riel  of  war.  It  perfectly  commands  the  city  and  river 
St.  Lawrence  ;  and  when  completed  will  be  not  only 
the  most  powerful  specimen  of  military  architecture  on 
the  western  continent,  but  also  a  rival  of  many  of  the 


QUEBEC. 


301 


renowned  works  in  the  Netherlands.  All  attempts  to 
describe  the  Citadel  in  its  present  unfinished  state 
tvould  be  nugatory. 

Having  entered  the  grand  western  gate,  where  the 
visitor  leaves  his  ticket  with  the  soldier  on  guard,  and 
examined  the  edifice,  he  will  first  proceed  round  the 
course  of  the  Citadel  to  the  flag  staff  and  telegraph  ; 
thence  southerly  by  the  parapet  bordering  on  the  riv 
er  to  the  machinery  at  the  head  of  the  rail-way,  or  in 
clined  plane,  which  is  500  feet  long,  extending  from 
the  wharf  to  the  Cape,  where  its  perpendicular  eleva 
tion  is  345  feet  above  the  stream.  This  rail- way  is 
used  by  the  government  alone,  to  convey  stones  and 
other  articles  of  great  weight  and  bulk,  for  the  erection 
of  the  new  fortress. 

Having  surveyed  from  the  highest  point  the  majes 
tic  scene,  in  every  diversified  aspect  of  hill  and  dale, 
land  and  water,  the  visitor  will  follow  the  course  of 
the  wall  on  his  left  hand,  until  he  returns  to  the  same 
gate,  and  pursue  his  walk  by  it,  over  St.  Louis  gate 
along  the  Esplanade,  until  he  arrives  opposite  the 
church  of  the  Congreganistes,  immediately  below  which 
is  the  national  school  house. 

Proceeding  along  St.  John  street,  he  will  turn  north 
of  St.  Stanislaus  street,  on  the  east  side  of  which  stands 
Trinity  chapel,  whence,  crossing  Carleton  street,  he 
arrives  at  the  artillery  barracks  and  the  armoury — the 
latter  of  which  may  be  inspected,  if  a  resident  of  the 
city  be  in  company. 

Opposite  the  armoury  is  the  anatomical  room  of  the 
medical  society.  Thence  walking  up  Palace  street,  on 
the  right  hand  is  St.  Helen  street,  where  is  Mr.  Chas- 


302  QUEBEC. 

seur's  natural  museum.  Returning  into  Palace  street, 
the  visitor  crosses  obliquely  above  to  Collins'  Lane,  in 
which  stands  on  the  left,  the 

Chapel  of  the  Hotel  Dieu.  These  premises  include  a 
large  proportion  of  the  northern  part  of  the  interior  of 
the  city — commencing  from  the  gate  of  the  burial 
ground  on  Couillard  street,  and  extending  to  Palace 
street,  with  a  wall  on  the  north,  parallel  to  the  fortifi 
cations  ;  the  whole  space  occupying  about  twelve 
acres.  This  institution  was  commenced  in  1637,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Duchess  of  Aiguillon,  and  was  con 
secrated  to  the  reception  and  care  of  the  sick,  who  are 
indigent  and  distressed.  It  is  a  capacious  edifice,  the 
longest  portion  of  which  extends  nearly  one  hundred 
and  thirty  yards  by  seventeen  in  depth,  and  three  sto 
ries  high.  On  the  north-west  side  from  the  centre,  a 
range  is  erected  two  stories  high,  fifty  yards  in  length, 
and  nearly  as  many  feet  broad,  plain  and  unadorned. 
This  wing  is  appropriated  for  the  patients  j  the  upper 
story  of  which  is  occupied  by  the  females.  All  proper 
attendance  both  from  the  nuns  and  physicians,  with 
every  necessary  comfort,  is  gratuitously  administered. 

In  the  convent  the  sisterhood  reside,  who  now  in 
clude  the  superieure,  thirty-three  religeuses  professes, 
two  novices  and  one  postulante.  The  regularit}7, 
neatness  and  purity  with  which  the  establishment  is 
conducted,  and  the  solace  of  the  wretched  who  find 
refuge  in  this  hospitable  domain,  are  highly  exemplary. 

The  church  of  the  Hotel  Dieu,  externally,  is  perfect 
ly  plain,  and  the  interior  is  little  adorned.  The  paint 
ings  may  be  examined  upon  application  to  the  chaplain. 


QUEBEC.  303 

Having  completed  an  examination  of  the  Hotel 
Dieu,  with  the  surrounding  garden,  the  visitor  may 
next  follow  Couillard,  St.  Joachin  and  St.  George's 
streets  to  the  Grand  Battery  and  the  ancient  palace  of 
the  Catholic  bishop,  now  used  by  the  provincial  parlia 
ment  ;  or  he  can  return  to  Palace  street,  and  continue 
his  progress  to  the  gate,  where,  by  passing  the  guard 
house  and  pursuing  his  walk  easterly,  he  may  accu 
rately  understand  the  nature  of  the  defence  which  the 
city  can  make  against  external  assault. 

The  first  house  at  which  he  arrives  is  distinguished 
as  the  residence  of  the  renowned  Montcalm.  There 
he  may  turn  to  the  right  which  will  lead  him  to  Couil 
lard  street,  or  he  can  continue  his  walk  passing  Hope 
Gate,  until  he  arrives  at  the  Look-out  from  the  north 
east  platform  of  the  battery. 

In  the  lower  town,  the  only  objects  which  merit  no 
tice,  besides  the  inclined  plane  or  rail-way  to  the  Cita 
del,  are  the  Exchange  reading  room,  and  the  Quebec 
library,  which  are  always  open  for  the  admission  of 
strangers,  if  regularly  introduced,  and  are  worthy  of 
inspection. 

About  one  hundred  yards  from  the  lower  end  of  the 
rail -way,  General  MONTGOMERY  and  his  aids  with 
other  men  were  killed  on  the  morning  of  December  31, 
1775,  when  proceeding  to  the  assault  of  Quebec.  The 
place  may  be  easily  recognized,  notwithstanding  the 
alterations  which  have  occurred.  At  that  period,  a 
narrow  path  only  was  made  between  the  foot  of  the 
hill  and  the  river,  so  that  vessels  were  fastened  to  the 
rock  by  large  iron  bolts,  one  of  which  still  remains, 
near  the  very  spot  where  the  American  General  and 


304  QUEBEC — PLAINS   OF   ABRAHAM. 

his  advanced  party  were  discomfited.  The  wharves, 
houses,  &c.  all  have  been  long  since  constructed.  At 
the  top  of  the  small  ascent  on  the  street  immediately 
below,  the  small  battery  had  been  erected,  near  the 
plat  where  the  southerly  forge  is  now  stationed.  As 
Montgomery  led  on  the  attack,  the  British  retreated 
before  him.  In  passing  round  Cape  Diamond,  the  ice 
and  projecting  rocks  rendered  it  necessary  for  the 
Americans  to  press  forward  in  a  narrow  file,  until  they 
arrived  at  the  block  house  and  picket.  The  General 
was  himself  in  front,  and  assisted  with  his  own  hands 
to  cut  down  and  pull  up  the  picket.  The  roughness  of 
the  way  had  so  lengthened  his  line  of  march,  that  he 
was  obliged  to  wait  for  a  force  to  come  up  before  he 
could  proceed.  Having  re-assembled  about  200  men, 
he  advanced  boldly  and  rapidly  at  their  head  to  force 
the  barrier.  One  or  two  of  the  enemy  had  by  this  time 
ventured  to  return  to  the  battery,  and  seeing  a  match 
standing  by  one  of  the  guns,  touched  it  off,  when  the 
American  force  was  within  40  paces  of  it.  This  single 
and  accidental  fire  struck  down  General  Montgomery 
and  his  aids,  Captain  M'Pherson  and  Captain  Cheesman. 

The  remains  of  Montgomery  were  interred  by  a  sol 
dier  of  the  name  of  Thompson  'within  a  wall  that  sur 
rounded  a  powder  magazine  near  the  ramparts  bound 
ing  on  St.  Lewis'  gate  ;  and  in  1818  were  removed  to 
New- York,  where  they  were  deposited  beneath  a  mon 
ument  in  front  of  St.  Paul's  church. 

The  PLAINS  OF  ABRAHAM  lie  south  and  west  of  Que 
bec.  The  visitor,  on  leaving  St.  Louis  gate,  should  turn 
up  the  stairs  to  the  Glacis,  continue  his  course  under 
the  citadel,  and  pursue  a  path  to  the  right.  At  the 


PLAINS    OF   ABRAHAM,  305 

termination  of  the  enclosure,  the  bank  is  ascended  to 
the  Plains  of  Abraham,  near  the  spot  where  Wolfe  died. 
The  large  house  at  a  distance  in  the  front  is  erected  on 
the  site  of  a  French  redoubt,  which  defended  the  as 
cent  from  Wolfe's  Cove,  and  was  the  primary  object  of 
assault  and  capture,  after  the  top  of  the  hill  had  been 
gained  by  the  British  troops.  The  precipice  at  the 
Cove,  from  150  to  200  feet  in  height,  and  full  of  projec 
tions  of  rocks  and  trees,  seemed  to  be  rendered  almost 
inaccessible.  General  Wolfe,  however,  with  unparal 
leled  fortitude,  led  the  way  in  the  night  (Sept.  12, 1759) 
through  a  narrow  path  winding  obliquely  up  the  hill, 
which,  with  the  assistance  of  boughs  and  stumps,  ena 
bled  him  and  his  troops  to  gain  the  summit.  Here, 
by  day-light  the  next  morning,  they  were  formed  in 
line  of  battle,  in  readiness  to  meet  the  enemy. 

General  Montcalm,  on  receiving  information  that 
the  British  had  possession  of  the  heights,  broke  up  his 
camp  at  Beaufort,  crossed  the  St.  Charles  river,  and 
at  about  10  o'clock  in  the  morning  commenced  the  at 
tack.  After  a  desperate  struggle  of  about  two  hours, 
in  which  both  commanders  had  been  mortally  wound 
ed,  the  French  gave  way,  and  left  the  field  in  the  pos 
session  of  the  victors. 

Wolfe  fell  at  the  critical  moment  that  decided  the 
victory.  He  was  wounded  in  the  early  part  of  the 
engagement  by  a  bullet  in  his  wrist — soon  after  by 
a  ball  which  passed  through  his  groin — and  it  was 
not  until  a  third  had  pierced  his  breast,  that  he  suffer 
ed  himself  to  be  carried  from  the  field.  "  I  die  hap 
py,"  was  his  exclamation,  when  in  the  arms  of  death 
he  heard  the  joyful  shouts  of  victory. 


306  FALLS  OF   MONTMORENCI. 

The  Martello  Tmuers,  consisting  of  four  circular  forts, 
are  situated  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  Plains  of 
Abraham,  about  half  a  mile  in  advance  of  the  exterior 
grand  wall  of  the  fortifications.  They  are  numbered 
from  the  river  St.  Lawrence  to  the  General  Hospital, 
and  guard  the  approaches  to  the  city  on  the  south  and 
west.  They  are  nearly  40  feet  in  height,  with  a  base 
diameter  almost  equal ;  and  the  exterior  wall  is  of  am 
ple  strength  to  resist  a  cannonade. 

The  FALLS  OF  MONTMORENCI,  are  situated  about  8 
miles  north-east  of  Quebec,  on  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  near  its  junction  with  the  St.  Lawrence.  These 
falls  pour  over  a  perpendicular  precipice  240  feet  in 
height,  and  may  almost  compare  in  beauty  and  gran 
deur  with  the  cataract  of  Niagara. 

The  effect  from  the  summit  of  the  cliff  is  awfully 
grand  and  sublime.  The  prodigious  depth  of  the  de 
scent  of  the  waters  of  this  surprising  fall  ;  the  bright 
ness  and  volubility  of  their  course  ;  the  swiftness  of 
their  movement  through  the  air ;  and  the  loud  and  hol 
low  noise  emitted  from  the  basin,  swelling  with  inces 
sant  agitation  from  the  weight  of  the  dashing  waters, 
forcibly  combine  to  attract  the  attention,  and  to  im 
press  the  mind  of  the  spectator  with  sentiments  of  gran 
deur  and  elevation.  The  breadth  of  the  fall  is  100  feet ; 
and  the  basin,  which  is  bounded  by  steep  cliffs,  forms 
an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees.  When  viewed  from  the 
beach,  the  cataract  is  seen,  with  resplendent  beauty,  to 
flow  down  the  gloomy  precipice,  the  summit  of  which 
is  crowded  with  woods.  The  diffusion  of  the  stream, 
to  the  breadth  of  1500  feet,  and  the  various  small  cas 
cades  produced  by  the  inequalities  of  its  rocky  bed,  on 


FALL8    OF   MONTMORENCI.  SG7 

its  way  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  display  a  very  singular 
and  pleasing  combination. 

Remains  of  entrenchments  and  fortifications  erected 
during  the  French  war  are  still  to  bo  seen  near  the 
falls.  A  battery  occupied  by  Gen.  Wolfe,  in  June, 
1759,  on  the  precipice  north-east  of  the  falls,  is  yet  vis 
ible.  The  French  occupied  the  opposite  bank ;  and 
Wolfe  attempted  to  storm  their  works  by  fording  the 
river  below  the  falls  and  ascending  the  heights.  With 
out  forming  in  a  regular  manner,  and  without  waiting 
for  additional  reinforcements  which  were  on  their  way 
from  Point  Levi,  Wolfe's  men  rashly  ascended  the  hill, 
eager  for  the  onset,  and  were  cut  down  by  the  French 
artillery  and  musquetry,  and  obliged  to  retreat.  The 
English  loss  was  about  500  ;  while  that  of  the  French 
was  trifling.  A  storm  coming  on,  further  attempts  to 
dislodge  the  French  were  abandoned.  The  British 
afterwards  ascended  the  river,  arid  the  action  on  the 
Plains  of  Abraham,  which  has  already  been  noticed, 
took  place  in  the  month  of  September  following. 

There  are  three  points  which  afford  the  best  views  of 
the  Falls.  1.  From  the  upper  window  of  the  mill, 
whence  the  projecting  leap  is  safely  seen.  2.  Having 
crossed  the  bridge,  the  visitor  proceeds  along  the  brow  of 
the  hill,  until  he  arrives  nearly  in  front  of  the  whole 
cataract,  from  this  summit,  the  view,  with  the  con 
comitant  circumstances,  inspire  commingled  emotions 
of  awe,  terror  and  [astonishment.  From  the  same 
spot,  there  is  a  lucid  and  beauteous  propect  of  Quebec, 
with  its  encircling  scenery  ;  and  with  an  ordinary  mag 
nifying  glass,  the  observer  can  discern  all  the  promi 
nent  objects— the  steeples,  towers,  fortifications,  prin- 


SOS  FALLS   OF    MONTMORENCI. 

cipal  edifices,  the  shipping,  the  course  of  the  St.  Law 
rence,  until  it  is  lost  among  the  hills — Point  Levi  and 
its  vicinity — the  north  side  of  the  island  of  Orleans — 
the  point  of  Ange  Gardien — and  the  shores  of  the  river 
as  far  as  Cape  Tourment.  3.  Hence  the  visitor  de 
scends  the  hill,  and  pursuing  its  course  to  the  right,  he 
may  ordinarily  advance  to  the  rock  which  interrupts 
the  turbulence  of  the  stream  when  discharged  into  the 
chasm.  In  the  view  from  below,  the  most  vivid  im 
pressions  of  this  gorgeous  cascade  are  produced  ;  and 
travellers  who  do  not  thus  survey  the  Falls,  can  form 
only  a  faint  and  incorrect  idea  of  its  apparently  chang 
ing  effect. 

At  a  considerable  distance  above  the  Falls,  the  chan 
nel  of  the  river  is  contracted  between  high  vertical 
rocks,  and  the  water  rushes  with  porpotionate  velocity. 
In  one  part  at  about  half  a  mile  from  the  bridge,  cas 
cades  of  three  or  four  yards  in  depth  are  adjacent  to 
two  fine  geological  curiosities,  familiarly  denominated 
the  Natural  Steps,  which  appear  to  have  been  formed 
by  the  attrition  of  the  stream,  occasioned  by  the  melt 
ing  of  the  snows  and  the  augmented  rapidity  of  the 
flood.  Many  of  these  steps  are  so  regular,  that  they 
almost  develope  the  process  of  human  art.  The 
perpendicular  attitude  of  the  rocks  on  the  east  side — 
the  tree-crowned  summit — the  uniformity  of  appear 
ance,  resembling  an  ancient  castle  wall  in  ruins — the 
precipices  on  the  western  bank — and  the  foaming  noi 
sy  current  portray  a  romantic  wildness,  which  is  very 
attractive.  Observers  are  amply  remunerated  for  their 
walk,  as  conjoined  with  this  interesting  object,  they 
witness  the  continuous  descent  and  the  accelerating 
force  and  celerity  with  which  the  river  is  propelled  to 


LORETTE — CHAUDIERE  FALLS.       309 

the  point,  whence  it  is  precipitated  into  the  St.  Law 
rence. 

LORETTE,  an  Indian  village,  about  8  miles  from  the 
city,  can  be  taken  in  the  route  to  or  from  the  Falls  of 
Montmorenci.  It  is  built  upon  an  elevated  situation, 
whence  there  is  an  extensively  varied  and  agreeable 
landscape,  in  many  points  similar  to  that  from  Cape 
Diamond,  but  also  including  some  attractive  novelties 
of  outline.  It  exhibits  a  bold  and  beautiful  view  of 
Quebec  and  its  suburbs,  and  in  its  extent,  it  is  bounded 
solely  by  the  distant  southern  mountains.  The  Indi 
an  inhabitants  of  the  village  retain  many  of  the  promi 
nent  characteristics  of  the  aboriginal  roamers  of  the 
forest,  combined  with  vicious  habits  contracted  by 
their  proximity  to  a  large  sea-port,  and  their  inter 
course  with  its  migratory  population.  At  this  village 
is  a  very  charming  view  of  the  river  St.  Charles  tumb 
ling  and  foaming  over  the  rocks  and  ledges  to  a  great 
depth.  The  rugged  and  perpendicularly  elevated  woody 
cliffs  in  connection  with  the  impetuous  rush  of  the 
waters,  although  circumscribed  in  extent,  and  there 
fore  affording  no  expanded  prospect  in  immediate  front, 
yet  as  seen  from  the  Saw-Mill,  and  from  the  bank  and 
the  bridge  at  the  head  of  the  dell,  in  its  different  posi 
tions  and  aspects,  constitute  an  object,  which,  when 
contrasted  with  the  more  majestic  cataracts  of  Mont 
morenci  and  the  Chaudiere,  or  recollected  in  combina 
tion  with  them,  furnishes  in  memorial  an  addition  to 
the  varieties  which  those  stupendous  natural  curiosi 
ties  embody. 

The  CHAUDIERE  FALLS  can  be  approached  by  land  or 
water.  The  former  is  generally  preferred,  the  distance 


310  CHAUDIERE    FALLS. 

to  the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  being  nine  miles  from 
Quebec.  From  thence  visitors  can  cross  at  the  ferry 
and  take  an  indirect  path  to  the  west  bank  of  the  river, 
or  diverge  from  the  St.  Lawrence  some  distance  north 
of  the  Chaudiere,  and  arrive  within  a  short  walk  of  the 
falls  on  the  eastern  bank.  The  river  at  the  cascade  is 
much  compressed,  being  only  about  400  feet  across  ; 
and  the  depth  into  the  Pof,  as  it  is  usually  termed,  is 
about  135  feet.  Many  rocks  divide  the  stream,  precise 
ly  at  the  fall,  into  three  chief  currents,  of  which  the 
westerly  is  the  largest — these  partially  re-unite  before 
their  broken  and  agitated  waves  are  received  into  the 
basin  ;  where  each  dashing  against  the  other  maintains 
a  turbulent  whirlpool.  The  form  of  the  rock  forces  a 
part  of  the  waters  into  an  oblique  direction,  advancing 
them  beyond  the  line  of  the  precipice,  while  the  cavi 
ties  in  the  rocks  increase  the  foaming  fury  of  the  revolv 
ing  waters  in  their  descent,  displaying  globular  figures 
of  brilliant  whiteness,  which  are  richly  contrasted  with 
the  encircling  dark  and  gloomy  cliffs,  while  the  ascend 
ing  spray  developes  all  the  variety  of  the  coloured  clou 
dy  arch,  and  enlivens  the  beauty  of  the  landscape. 
The  wild  diversity  of  rocks,  the  foliage  of  the  overhang 
ing  woods,  the  rapid  motion,  the  effulgent  brightness 
and  the  deeply  solemn  sound  of  the  cataracts,  all  com 
bining  to  present  a  rich  assemblage  of  objects  highly 
attractive,  especially  when  the  visitor,  emerging  from 
the  wood,  is  instantaneously  surprised  by  the  delight 
ful  scene.  Below,  the  view  is  greatly  changed,  and 
the  falls  produce  an  additional  strong  and  vivid  impres 
sion.  If  strangers  only  view  the  falls  from  one  side  of 


FROM  MONTREAL  TO  WHITEHALL.  311 

the  river,  the  prospect  from  the  eastern  shore  is  recom 
mended  as  preferable. 

The  Montmorenci  and  Chaudiere  Falls,  the  village 
of  Loretto  and  Lake  St.  Charles,  together  with  the 
scenery  of  Orleans,  a  beautiful  island  6  miles  down  the 
St.  Lawrence,  Beaufort  and  Point  Levi,  will  always  af 
ford  interesting  excursions  to  the  tourist  at  Quebec. 

FROM  QUEBEC  TO  MONTREAL. 

In  returning  to  Montreal,  the  traveller  (as  before  re 
marked)  should,  if  practicable,  take  a  boat  at  such  an 
hour  as  to  give  him  a  chance  of  viewing  by  day-light 
on  the  river  the  scenery  which,  in  descending,  was  pass 
ed  in  the  night. 

The  approach  to  Montreal  in  ascending  the  river  is 
extremely  beautiful.  The  mount  behind  the  city  cloth 
ed  in  a  rich  and  unbroken  foliage,  the  numerous  adja 
cent  country  seats,  the  spires  and  edifices  of  the  city 
and  the  beautiful  woody  island  in  front,  all  conspire  in 
presenting  a  rich  and  truly  diversified  landscape,  and 
one  that  will  not  be  easily  effaced  from  the  memory. 
[For  a  description  of  Montreal,  see  p.  288.] 

FROM  MONTREAL*  TO  WHITEHALL, 

Is  181  miles,  and  the  intervening  distances  are  as 
follows  : 


*  At  Montreal  a  stage  can  be  taken  twice  a  week  for 
Danville,  Vt.  distant  100  miles;  from  thence  to  the 
Notch  in  the  White  Mountains,  28  miles  ;  from  thence 
to  Concord,  N.  H.  75  miles  ;  and  from  thence  to  Bos 
ton,  68  miles.  The  whole  route  is  perfbimed  in  four 
days.  [For  a  description  of  the  White  Mountains,  see 
page  334.]  BB2 


512  CHAMBLY ST.  JOHNS. 


Miles. 


Longueil, 

Chambly, 13 

St.  Johns, 12 

Isle  Aux  Noix, .......  14 

Rouse's  Point, 10 

Chazy, 12 

Plattsburgh, 15 


Mies. 

Burlington, 11 

Split  Rock, 12 

Essex, 2 

Basin  Harbor, 12 

Crown  Point, ..12 

Ticonderoga, 15 

Whitehall, 24 


Port  Kent, 15 

From  Montreal  the  St.  Lawrence  is  crossed  in  a 
horse  boat  to  Longueil,*  a  distance  of  two  miles.  Af 
ter  leaving  Longueil,  the  country  becomes  remarkably 
level,  until  you  reach 

CHAMBLY,  13  miles  distant.  This  is  a  considerable 
town,  on  the  river  Sorel,  containing  extensive  barracks 
and  some  troops.  In  the  vicinity  is  High  Mountain, 
which  confines  between  its  conical  summits  a  lake  of 
pure  water.  The  fort  is  built  of  stone,  in  a  quadran 
gular  form,  and  resembles  in  its  appearance  an  ancient 
castle.  From  this  place  the  road  follows  the  river,  un 
til  you  arrive  at 

ST.  JOHNS,  a  distance  of  12  miles.  This  place  was 
an  important  post  during  the  French  and  Revolutionary 
wars.  In  the  latter  it  was  taken,  after  a  gallant  de 
fence,  by  General  Montgomery,  as  was  also  Chambly. 
It  contains,  at  present,  about  100  houses  and  800  in 
habitants.  Though  a  place  of  considerable  business, 
it  possesses  nothing  in  its  appearance  or  accommoda- 


*The  route  may  be  varied  so  as  to  pass  through  La 
Prairie,  a  village  of  about  200  houses,  and  the  grand 
thoroughfare  for  trade  between  Montreal  and  St.  Johns, 
though  the  route  through  Longueil  is  considered  pre 
ferable. 


LAKE    CHAMPLA1K — ISLE   AUX    N01X.  313 

lions  inviting  to  a  stranger.  Heretofore  steam-boats 
have  left  St.  Johns  for  Whitehall  only  twice  a  week  \ 
but  as  there  are  now  three  on  the  Lake,  it  is  probable 
that  a  passage  may  hereafter  be  taken  as  often  as  eve 
ry  other  day.  The  boats  touch  at  all  the  intermediate 
places  ;  and  the  fare  through  is  $6.  Proportionate  de 
ductions  are  made  for  the  intermediate  distances. 

LAKE  CHAMPLAIN, 

Forms  part  of  the  boundary  line  between  the  states 
of  New- York  and  Vermont.  Its  length  is  1 40  miles,  and 
its  greatest  breadth  14.  A  great  proportion  of  the 
lands  on  the  margin  of  the  lake  are  still  unredeemed 
from  a  state  of  nature,  and  in  some  places,  particularly 
at  the  north  end,  are  low  and  marshy.  After  entering 
the  territories  of  the  United  States,  the  country  is  more 
populous,  and  under  a  better  state  of  improvement. 
The  villages  seen  from  the  lake  all  exhibit  a  cheerful 
and  thriving  appearance.  The  lake  properly  termi 
nates  at  Mount  Independence  ;  from  whence  to  White 
hall,  a  distance  of  30  miles,  it  assumes  the  appearance 
of  a  river,  in  which  little  more  than  room  is  left,  at  any 
point,  to  turn  the  boat.  The  history  of  Champlain  in 
volves  many  interesting  events  associated  with  the 
French  and  Revolutionary  wars.  During  those  periods 
several  fortifications  were  constructed,  which  have 
since  undergone  some  repairs,  but  are  now  in  a  state  of 
decay.  The  ruins  of  the  ancient  fortresses  at  Ticonde- 
roga  and  Crown  Point  are  still  visible. 

ISLE  AUX  Noix,  14  miles  from  St  Johns.  This  is  a 
strong  military  and  naval  post  possessed  by  the  En 
glish.  The  works  are  generally  in  good  preservation  ; 


314  PLATTSBURGH. 

and  are  occupied  by  a  small  military  corps.  In  the  ex 
pedition  against  Canada  in  1775,  the  troops  under  Gen 
erals  Schuyler  and  Montgomery  went  down  the  lake 
in  rafts  and  landed  at  this  island ,  from  whence  they 
proceeded  to  St.  Johns.  The  other  detachment,  under 
Gen.  Arnold,  marched  by  land  through  the  present 
state  of  Maine,  (then  a  wilderness)  to  Quebec. 

ROUSE'S  POINT,  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain, 
and  10  miles  from  the  Isle  aux  Noix,  contains  strong 
stone  fortifications,  erected  by  the  United  States,  but 
which,  by  the  decision  of  the  commissioners  appointed 
to  settle  the  boundary  line  between  the  American  and 
British  governments,  fell  within  the  territories  of  the 
latter. 

The  VILLAGE  OF  PLATTSBURGH,  27  miles  farther,  is 
handsomely  located  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac  river, 
on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain.  It  contains 
about  300  dwellings,  besides  the  court-house  and  prison 
for  the  county.  The  number  of  inhabitants  is  about 
1500.  This  place  is  rendered  celebrated  by  the  brilliant 
victory  of  M'Donough  and  Macomb,  over  the  British 
land  and  naval  forces  under  Sir  George  Prevost  and 
Commodore  Downie.  The  naval  engagement  took 
place  in  front  of  the  village,  which  overlooks  the  ex 
tensive  Bay  of  Plattsburgh  for  several  miles.  Here  the 
American  Commodore  waited  at  anchor  the  arrival  of 
the  British  fleet,  which  appeared  passing  Cumberland 
Head,  about  8  in  the  morning  of  the  llth  of  September, 
1814.  The  first  gun  from  the  fleet  was  the  signal  for 
commencing  the  attack  on  land.  Sir  George  Prevost, 
with  about  14,000  men,  furiously  assaulted  the  defences 


PLATTSBURGH.  315 

of  the  town,  whilst  the  battle  raged  with  increasing  ar 
dor  between  the  fleets,  then  contending  in  full  view  of 
the  respective  armies.  General  Macomb,  with  his  gal 
lant  little  army,  consisting  of  about  3000  men,  mostly 
undisciplined,  foiled  the  repeated  assaults  of  the  enemy, 
until  the  capture  of  the  British  fleet,  after  an  action  of 
two  hours,  obliged  him  to  retire,  with  the  loss  of  2500 
men,  together  with  considerable  baggage  and  ammuni 
tion.  The  American  force  on  the  lake  consisted  of  86 
guns,  and  820  men ;  and  was  opposed  to  a  force  of  95 
guns,  and  1050  men.  Thus  ended  the  affair  at  Platts- 
burgh,  'no  less  honorable  to  American  valor  than  dero 
gatory  to  the  British  arms.  Commodore  Downie  was 
killed  in  the  engagement.  He  was  represented  as  a 
brave  and  skilful  officer  ;  but  was  opposed  to  the  meth 
od  of  attack  on  the  American  flotilla.  Both  fleets  are 
now  dismantled,  and  moored  at  Whitehall. 

A  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  Commodore 
Downie,  in  the  church-yard  at  Pittsburgh,  contains  the 
following  inscription : 

"  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  GEORGE  DOWNIE,  Esq. 
A  Post-Captain  in  the  Royal  British  Navy,  who  glori 
ously  fell  on  board  his  B.  M.  S.  the  Confiance,  while 
leading  the  vessels  under  his  command  to  the  attack 
of  the  American  flotilla  at  anchor  in  Cumberland  Bay, 
off  Plattsburgh,  on  the  llth  September,  1814.  To  mark 
the  spot  where  the  remains  of  a  gallant  officer  and  sin 
cere  friend  were  honorably  interred,  this  stone  has  been 
erected  by  his  affectionate  sister-in-law  Mary  Downie." 

The  remains  of  a  number  of  officers  of  both  armies, 
who  fell  in  the  engagement,  repose  near  the  Commo* 
dore,  with  no  monument  to  inform  the  stranger,  and 


316  PLATTSEURGH — PORT   KENT. 

with  no  record  but  tradition  to  denote  the  spot  of  their 
interment.  East  of  Downie  are  five  graves,  occurring 
in  the  following  order:  Commencing  south — Capt. 
Copeland,  an  American  officer — Lieut.  Stansbury,  of 
the  American  navy — Lieut.  Hunk,  of  the  American  ar 
my — Lieut.  Gamble,  of  the  American  navy — and  a  Brit 
ish  Sergeant.  On  the  north  side  of  Downie  are  the 
remains  of  the  British  Lt.  Col.  Wellington — on  the  south, 
two  British  Lieutenants — on  the  west  Capt.  Purchase 
and  four  other  officers,  three  of  whom  were  British. 

The  traveller  will  find  many  objects  of  interest  at 
Plattsburgh,  which  will  warrant  his  continuance  there 
for  one  or  two  days.  A  short  distance  from  the  village 
are  the  cantonement  and  breast  works  occupied  by 
Gen.  Macomb  and  his  troops  during  the  last  war.  A 
mile  north  is  shown  the  house  possessed  by  Gen  Pre- 
vost  as  his  head-quarters  during  the  siege  in  1814 ; 
between  which  and  the  village,  the  marks  of  cannon- 
shot  on  trees  and  other  objects,  are  still  visible.  Far 
ther  onward,  about  5  miles,  on  a  hill  overlooking  the 
village  of  Beekmantown,  is  shown  the  spot  where  a 
sanguinary  engagement  took  place,  between  the  A- 
merican  and  British  troops,  which  resulted  in  the  death 
of  the  British  Col.  Wellington,  and  several  men  of  both 
armies.  Col.  W.  was  killed  in  the  centre  of  the  road, 
about  equa-distant  from  the  summit  and  foot  of  the  hill. 

JWDonougtis  Farm,  granted  by  the  legislature  of  Ver 
mont,  lies  on  Cumberland  Head,  nearly  east  of  Platts- 
burgh ;  a  ride  to  which,  around  the  bay,  in  the  warm 
season,  is  refreshing  and  delightful. 

PORT  KENT,  15  miles  from  Plattsburgh,  is  a  spot 
selected  on  the  lake  shore  for  a  new  town  or  village, 


ADGATE'S  FALLS — HIGH  BRIDGE.          317 

17  miles  southerly  of  Plattburgh  by  land,  and  15  miles 
by  water.  There  are  a  few  buildings,  and  a  wharf  erect 
ed,  at  which  passengers  are  landed  from  the  steam 
boat.  From  this  place  may  be  seen,  on  the  north,  the 
Isle  La  Mott,  26  miles  distant,  Grand  Island,  the  Two 
Sisters,  Point  La  Roche,  Cumberland  Head,  and  Bel- 
core  and  Macomb's  Islands  ;  on  the  east,  Stave,  Pro 
vidence  and  Hog  Islands,  Colchester  Point,  and  the 
Green  Mountains  of  Vermont  ;  on  the  south  the  vil 
lage  of  Burlington,  about  11  miles  distant,  with  the 
high  peak  called  the  Camel's  Rump  ;  the  whole  form- 
a  most  delightful  and  pleasant  landscape  not  excelled 
at  any  other  point  of  the  lake  passage.  Three  miles 
west  from  Port  Kent,  are  the  celebrated 

ADGATE'S  FALLS.  They  are  situated  on  the  river 
A'Sable,  and  take  their  name  from  a  person  residing 
there,  who  is  the  proprietor  of  some  valuable  mills 
in  the  vicinity.  The  water  pours  over  a  precipice  about 
80  feet  in  height,  into  a  narrow  channel  of  the  river, 
the  banks  of  which  consist  of  rock,  rising  perpendicu 
larly  to  the  height  of  from  60  to  100  feet.  At  what  is 
called  the 

HIGH  BRIDGE,  about  half  a  mile  below  the  falls,  the 
channel  is  narrowed  to  27  feet.  The  height  of  the  rocks 
here,  which  are  perpendicular,  is  93  feet,  and  the  water 
ter  35  feet  deep.  Over  this  chasm  a  bridge  was  once 
erected,  by  throwing  timbers  across  ;  but  it  is  now 
principally  in  decay.  The  sensations  produced  on  look 
ing  into  this  gulf  are  terrific,  and  the  stoutest  heart  in 
voluntarily  shrinks  from  the  contemplation.  There  is 
an  indifferent  road  from  the  falls  to  the  High  Bridge, 
but  with  this  exception  the  spot  is  yet  a  wilderness. 


318  SPLIT   ROCK — CROWN   POINT. 

BURLINGTON,  ia  situated  on  the  cast  side  of  Lake 
Champlain,  about  24  miles  south-east  of  Plattsburgh. 
This  is  one  of  those  beautiful  villages  which  so  often 
attract  the  notice  of  a  stranger  in  the  New-England 
states.  The  ground  rises  with  a  moderate  ascent  from 
the  lake,  and  presents  a  slope  covered  with  handsome 
houses  and  trees.  On  the  highest  part  of  the  eminence, 
which  is  330  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lake,  stands  the 
University  of  Vermont.  This  summit  commands  a  noble 
view  of  the  lake,  and  the  adjacent  country,  for  many 
miles.  There  are  here  250  houses  and  stores,  besides 
a  bank,  court-house,  jail,  and  two  churches.*  About 
12  miles  from  Burlington,  in  the  town  of  Willsborough, 
(N.  Y.)  is  what  is  called  the 

SPLIT  ROCK.  This  curiosity  is  a  part  of  a  rocky 
promontory  projecting  into  the  lake,  on  the  west  side, 
about  1 50  feet,  and  elevated  above  the  level  of  the  wa 
ter  about  12  feet.  The  part  broken  off  contains  about 
half  an  acre,  covered  with  trees,  and  is  separated  from 
the  main  rock  about  20  feet.  The  opposite  sides  ex 
actly  fit  each  other — the  prominences  in  the  one  cor 
responding  with  the  cavities  in  the  other.  Through 
this  fissure  a  line  has  been  let  down  to  the  depth  of  500 
feet,  without  finding  bottom. 

CROWN  POINT,  is  situated  36  miles  from  Burlington, 
on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain.  It  is  formed  by 
an  extensive  deep  bay  on  the  west,  skirted  by  a  steep 


^Travellers  designing  to  visit  Boston,  frequently  take 
a  stage  at  this  place,  on  a  route  which  is  noticed  at 
page  330. 


TICONDEROGA — SOUTH    AND   EAST   BATS.      819 

mountain,  and  on  the  north  and  east  by  the  body  of 
the  lake.  The  elevated  plain  was  first  occupied  by 
the  French,  in  1731,  as  a  military  position,  and  aban 
doned  by  them  in  1759,  when  General  Amherst  took 
possession  of  it,  and  built  Fort  Frederick.  The  ruins 
of  this  fort  may  still  be  traced,  being  situated  directly 
opposite  to  Chimney  Point  on  the  south  side  of  the 
bay.  After  the  peace  of  1763,  it  was  occupied  by  a 
subaltern  and  a  mere  safe-guard,  until  it  was  burnt  by 
accident  sometime  previous  to  the  American  Revolu 
tion.  In  1775  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Americans, 
and  was  afterwards  evacuated  by  them,  on  the  advance 
of  Burgoyne,  in  1776.  A  few  years  since  a  number  of 
British  guineas  were  found  here,  from  the  accidental 
crumbling  of  the  earth  from  the  banks,  where  they  had 
been  deposited. 

TICONDEROGA,  which  has  already  been  noticed,  (see 
p.  196,)  is  situated  15  miles  south  of  Crown-Point,  and 
24  miles  north  of  Whitehall. 

One  mile  from  Ticonderoga,  is  MOUNT  INDEPEN 
DENCE,  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake  ;  near  the  foot  of 
which,  the  remains  of  a  small  battery  are  still  to  be 
seen.  What  was  called  the  Horse-Shoe  battery  was 
on  an  elevation  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  the  rear. 

Nine  miles  farther,  the  lake  is  contracted  into  four 
narrow  channels,  bounded  on  the  west  and  east  by  lof 
ty  mountains. 

SOUTH  and  EAST  BAYS  are  soon  reached,  each  of 
about  five  miles  in  extent.  The  former  was  taken  by 
Gen.  Dieskau  and  his  army,  in  their  route  towards 
Fort  Edward  in  1755.  From  the  latter  bay  to  White- 


320  WHITEHALL — NORTHERN   CANAL. 

hall,  the  passage  is  extremely  narrow  and  of  a  ser 
pentine  course,  and  cannot  be  pursued  in  safety  dur 
ing  a  dark  night. 

WHITEHALL,  terminates  the  steam-boat  navigation 
of  Lake  Champlain.  It  is  an  incorporated  village  sit 
uated  on  the  west  bank  of  Wood  Creek  at  its  enterance 
into  the  lake,  73  miles  north  of  Albany,  and  contains 
about  150  dwellings  and  stores  and  1200  inhabitants. 
The  situation  of  this  place  is  low  and  unpleasant ;  and 
it  derives  its  principal  consequence  from  the  naviga 
tion  of  the  lake,  which  is  passable  for  sloops  of  80  tons 
burthen,  and  from  the  northern  canal,  which  here  enters 
the  lake.  Burgoyne  occupied  this  place  for  a  short  time, 
preparatory  to  his  march  to  Saratoga  ;  and  on  the 
heights,  over  the  harbor,  are  the  remains  of  a  battery 
and  block  house. 

A  regular  line  of  stages  runs  from  Whitehall*  to  Albany 
every  day  in  the  week,  passing  through  Fort  Ann,  San 
dy  Hill,  Fort  Edward,  Saratoga,  Stillwater  and  Water- 
ford.  Regular  packet-boats  also  depart  for  Albany  ev 
ery  Tuesday  and  Saturday  at  8  A.  M.  The  fare  is  4 
cents  per  mile,  including  board.  On  the  arrival  of  the 
packet-boat  at  Fort  Edward,  stages  are  always  in  rea 
diness  to  start  for  Albany,  Saratoga  and  Ballston 
Springs. 

THE  NORTHERN  CANAL, 

Commencing  at  Whitehall,  proceeds  five  and  a  half 
miles  when  it  enters  Wood  Creek,  a  narrow  sluggish 


*A  route  from  this  place  to  Boston  is  noticed  at  page 

328. 


THE    NORTHERN   CANAL.  321 

stream,  averaging  15  feet  in  depth.  This  creek  is  con 
nected  with  the  canal,  and  is  rendered  navigable  for 
boats,  for  about  6  1-2  miles,  to  Fort  Ann  village. — 
From  thence  the  canal  proceeds  through  Fort  Ann, 
Kingsbury,  and  Fort  Edward,  to  Fort  Miller  Falls,  be 
low  which  the  canal  enters  the  river,  which  is  made 
navigable  3  miles  to  Saratoga  falls,  where  the  canal  is 
taken  out  of  the  river  on  the  west  side,  and  proceeds 
through  Saratoga,  Stillwater  and  Halfinoon,  to  Water- 
ford,  where  it  enters  the  Hudson,  and  by  a  branch  ca 
nal  enters  the  Mohawk,  which  it  crosses  by  a  dam,  and 
after  passing  3-4  of  a  mile  joins  the  Erie  canal  in  the 
town  of  Watervleit.  The  whole  length  of  the  Cham- 
plain  canal  is  63  miles.  The  cost  to  the  state,  exclu 
sive  of  the  feeder  from  above  Glen's  Falls,  was  $375,000. 
The  intervening  distances  on  the  canal  between 
Whitehall  and  Albany  are  as  follows  : 


Miles. 

Fort  Ann, 12 

Sandy-Hill, 8 

Fort  Edward, 2 

Fort  Miller  Falls,...  8 

Saratoga  Falls,....  3 

Schuylerville, 2 

Bemus'  Heights, ...  12 


Mies. 

Stillwater  V 3 

Mechanics  Ville, ....  3 

Waterford, 8 

Watervleit, 2 

Gibbon's  Ville, 2 

Albany, 6 


Haifa  mile  north  of  Fort  Anne,  where  an  elbow  is 
made  by  Wood  Creek  at  the  foot  of  a  precipitous  hill, 
a  severe  engagement  took  place  in  1777,  between  a  de 
tachment  of  Burgoyne's  troops  and  a  party  of  Ameri 
cans,  under  the  command  of  Col.  Sterry,  who  were  on 
their  retreat  from  Ticonderoga.  The  Americans  were 
on  the  plain  south  of  the  hill  j  while  the  latter  served 


322  ROUTES  TO  BOSTON. 

as  a  cover  to  the  British.  Their  fire  on  Sterry's  forces 
below  was  destructive,  and  compelled  him  to  abandon 
his  position. 

The  village  of  FORT  ANNE  is  on  the  site  of  the  old 
Fort  erected  during  the  French  war.  It  was  located  at 
the  north  part  of  the  village  on  the  bank  of  the  creek. 

Burgoyne's  road,  commencing  about  2  miles  south  of 
the  village,  and  nearly  pursuing  the  course  of  the  pres 
ent  road,  is  still  visible.  It  was  a  causeway,  formed 
by  logs  laid  transversely,  a  labor  which  became  neces 
sary  in  conveying  his  cannon  and  baggage  waggons  to 
Saratoga. 

From  Fort  Anne  to  Albany,  the  intervening  places, 
Sandy-Hill,  Saratoga,  &c.  have  already  been  noticed. 
(See  Index.) 

ROUTES  TO  BOSTON. 

These  are  so  various,  that  the  traveller  may  always 
be  governed  by  his  own  taste  and  judgment  in  a  selec 
tion.  The  route  from  Albany  has  been  chosen  by  ma 
ny  on  account  of  enjoying  in  the  excursion  a  visit  to  the 
Lebanon  Springs  ;  while  others  have  preferred  a  course 
which  should  embrace  the  rich  mountain  scenery  of 
Vermont  and  New-Hampshire  ;  commencing  their  ex 
cursions  either  at  Burlington,  Whitehall,  or  at  Sarato 
ga  Springs.  These  routes  are  hereafter  delineated  j 
but  without  giving  them  in  strict  geographical  order, 
we  commence  with  that  from  Saratoga  Springs,  as  pass 
ing  over  the  most  interesting  ground  connected  with 
the  historic  events  of  the  revolution. 


SCHUYLER-VILLE — UNION  VILLAGE.  823 

FROM  SARATOGA  SPRINGS  TO  BOSTON. 

161  miles.    Intervening  distances  as  follows : 


Mies, 

Schuyler-Ville, 12 

Union  Village, 5 

Cambridge, 8 

Arlington, 12 

Manchester, 12 

Landsgrove, 15 

Chester, 15 

Bellows  Falls, 14 

Walpole  Village,...  4 

Walpole, 4 

Keene, 14 


Mies. 

Jeffrey, 5 

New  Ipswich, 10 

Townsend, 12 

Pepperel, 6 

Groton, 3 

Littleton, 8 

Acton, 3 

Concord, 7 

Lexington, 7 

Cambridge, 7 

Boston, 3 


Maryborough, 5 

A  stage  leaves  Saratoga  Springs  every  morning 
(Sundays  excepted)  at  5  o'clock,  reaching  Manchester 
the  first  day,  Keene  the  second,  and  Boston  the  third, 
to  dine.  Fare  $7,50. 

ScHUTLER-ViLLE,  12  miles.  (See  p.  185.)  Passing 
across  the  vale  where  the  surrender  of  Burgoyne  took 
place  to  the  river,  (on  the  bank  of  which,  in  a  field  ad 
joining  the  road  on  the  north,  are  seen  the  remains  of 
an  intrenchment,)  the  stage  crosses  in  a  horse-boat. 

UNION  VILLAGE,  5  miles.  The  Battenkill  river  pass 
es  through  the  village,  on  the  banks  of  which  are  sev 
eral  mills  and  factories.  There  are  about  100  houses 
in  the  place  ;  and  the  number  is  constantly  augment 
ing. 

Cambridge  and  Arlington  are  good  agricultural 
townships.  In  the  latter  place,  the  route,  for  a  consid 
erable  distance  is  on  the  bank  of  the  Battenkill,  near 
which  are  several  valuable  and  extensive  quarries  of 
white  marble.  cc3 


324  BELLOWS  FALLS. 

MANCHESTER,  12  miles  from  Arlington,  is  a  neat  vil 
lage,  located  near  the  foot  of  the  Green  Mountains, 
which  are  seen  stretching  to  the  north  and  south  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  extend.  Leaving  the  village,  the  stage 
soon  commences  ascending  the  great  natural  barrier 
which  separates  the  eastern  and  western  sections  of 
Vermont.  No  exertions  have  been  spared  to  improve 
the  road  ;  and  it  may  be  considered  by  far  the  best  of 
any  which  crosses  the  mountain.  The  ascent,  which 
is  not  precipitous,  continues,  with  occasional  descents, 
for  10  or  12  miles  before  the  summit  is  reached.  Dur 
ing  the  first  six  miles,  a  most  extensive  and  variegated 
prospect  at  the  west  is  enjoyed ;  and  after  attaining 
the  greatest  elevation,  this  is  suddenly  exchanged  for  a 
prospect  nearly  co-extensive  at  the  east. 

CHESTER,  30  miles  from  Manchester,  is  a  pleasant 
village,  situated  on  a  handsome  plain,  and  contains 
two  churches,  an  excellent  academy,  and  about  60 
dwellings  and  stores. 

BELLOWS  FALLS,  14  miles,  lies  on  the  western  bank 
of  Connecticut  river.  The  village  is  flourishing,  con 
tains  some  very  pleasant  houses,  a  number  of  manu 
facturing  establishments,  and  a  beautiful  church,  which 
stands  on  an  eminence,  and  is  seen  for  some  miles 
distant. 

A  canal,  having  9  locks,  and  affording  water  for  a 
number  of  mills,  has  been  constructed  around  the  falls. 
It  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length.  The  whole  descent 
of  the  river  for  this  distance  is  50  feet,  and  as 
sumes  the  appearance  of  rapids  rather  than  a  cataract. 
Over  the  greatest  descent,  where  the  water  is  compres- 


WALPOLE.  325 

sed  by  ledges  of  rocks  to  a  very  narrow  space,  a  hand 
some  toll  bridge  is  erected,  50  feet  in  height,  from 
which  the  water  is  seen  rushing  through  the  pass  with 
great  rapidity,  and  dashing  upon  the  rocks  in  the  wild 
est  disorder — presenting  a  scene  truly  sublime  and  in 
teresting. 

A  short  distance  below  the  falls  are  two  rocks  con 
taining  specimens  of  Indian  workmanship.  On  one  of 
the  rocks  are  the  indistinct  traces  of  a  number  of  hu 
man  faces,  represented  by  marks  in  the  stone,  and 
probably  intended  as  a  memorial  of  their  deceased 
friends  or  chieftains.  That  this  place  was  once  the 
haunt  of  our  savage  predecessors,  is  evident  from  the 
arrow  points  and  bits  of  their  earthen  pots  and  frag 
ments  of  other  utensils  which  may  be  found  in  a  short 
walk  over  the  adjacent  fields.* 

On  the  New-Hampshire  side  is  a  chain  of  lofty 
mountains,  which  leave  but  a  narrow  passage  between 
their  base  and  the  river.  Around  one  of  these  impend 
ing  barriers  the  road  winds  its  course  to  the  pleasant 
village  of 

WALPOLE,  which  containes  about  80  houses,  includ 
ing  some  very  handsome  mansions.  This  place  was 
the  scene  of  many  savage  incursions  during  the  French 
war.  It  was  once  in  the  entire  possession  of  the  Indi- 


*  From  Bellows  Falls,  stages  can  be  taken  every  day 
for  Concord,  N.  H.  and  for  Hartford,  Conn.  On  the 
latter  route,  the  course  is  generally  near  the  bank  of 
the  Connecticut  river,  and  through  a  most  delightful 
country,  interspersed  with  several  elegant  villages  and 
country  seats. 


326  KEENE— LEXINGTON. 

ans,  and  retaken  from  them  by  Col.  Bellows,  who  made 
the  first  settlement  in  this  part  of  the  country.  The 
scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  remarkably  striking  and  ro 
mantic.  Ten  miles  farther  is  the  flourishing  village  of 

KEENE.  This  is  one  of  the  handsomest  villages  in 
New-England,  and  is  situated  a  few  miles  east  of  the 
Connecticut  river.  It  contains  about  200  dwellings,  a 
bank,  a  court  house  and  gaol,  3  churches,  and  a  pop 
ulation  of  about  2000.  For  a  distance  of  40  miles  from 
this  place  no  village  of  importance  intervenes,  though 
many  handsome  dwellings  and  rich  farms  are  discov 
ered  on  the  route. 

GROTON,  41  miles  from  Keenc,  is  a  pleasant  village, 
containing  about  100  houses  and  an  academy ;  seven 
miles  from  which  is  the  town  of 

CONCORD,  rendered  memorable  as  the  place  where 
the  first  efficient  opposition  was  made  to  the  British 
troops,  in  1775.  It  is  a  large  town,  and  contains  many 
handsome  dwellings.  Eight  miles  from  which  is  the 
town  of 

LEXINGTON,  containing  a  few  plain  houses  ;  but  cel 
ebrated  in  history  as  the  spot  where  the  first  American 
blood  was  shed  in  the  struggle  for  Independence.  This 
occurred  on  the  19th  of  April,  1775.  A  quantity  of  mil 
itary  stores  had  been  collected  at  Concord,  which  the 
British  General  Gage  proposed  to  destroy.  Though  se 
cret  in  his  operations,  and  though  precaution  had  been 
taken  the  evening  previous  to  scour  the  roads  and  se 
cure  such  citizens  as  the  British  officers  fell  in  with,  yei 
the  plan  was  discovered  by  Doctor  Warren,  of  Boston, 
who  sent  out  messengers  to  alarm  the  inhabitants  and 


LEXINGTON.  327 

prepare  them  for  resistance.  On  the  arrival  the  next 
morning  at  Lexington  of  the  British  troops,  8  or  900 
strong,  it  was  found  that  the  militia  of  the  town,  to  the 
number  of  70,  were  in  arms.  Major  Pitcairn,  who  led 
the  British  van,  ordered  the  "  rebels"  to  disperse.  Some 
scattering  guns  were  fired,  which  were  followed  by  a 
general  discharge,  and  continued  till  the  militia  disap 
peared.  Eight  men  were  killed  and  several  wounded.* 

The  detachment  then  proceeded  to  Concord,  a  part  of 
which  took  possession  of  two  bridges  beyond  the  town, 
while  the  remainder  destroyed  the  military  stores.  A 
number  of  militia,  who  had  collected  in  the  vicinity, 
but  with  orders  not  to  give  the  first  fire,  attempted  to 
pass  one  of  the  bridges  in  the  character  of  travellers. 
They  were  fired  on,  and  two  men  killed.  The  fire  was 
returned  and  a  skirmish  ensued,  which  resulted  in  the 
discomfiture  of  the  regulars,  and  a  precipitate  retreat. 
Skirmishing  continued  during  the  day,  and  though  the 
British  received  reinforcements,  they  were  harrassed  in 
their  retreat  to  Bunker's  Hill,  where  they  remained  se 
cure  under  the  protection  of  their  ships  of  war. 

The  loss  of  the  British,  during  this  day,  in  killed, 
wounded  and  prisoners,  was  273 ;  while  that  of  the 
provincialists  did  not  exceed  90. 

The  blow  thus  struck  was  the  precursor  of  more  im 
portant  events,  and  was  soon  followed  by  the  battle  of 
Breed's  or  (as  it  is  generally  denominated)  Bunker's 
Hill ;  which  is  noticed  in  subsequent  pages. 

*  A  handsome  monument  now  marks  the  spot  where 
this  action  was  fought,  beneath  which  are  interred  the 
remains  of  the  Americans  who  were  slain. 


328  FROM  WHITEHALL  TO  BOSTON. 

CAMBRIDGE,  is  situated  7  miles  from  Lexington.  It 
is  a  large  and  handsome  town,  but  derives  its  impor 
tance  from  Harvard  University,  which  is  located  here, 
and  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  celebrated  literary  in 
stitutions  in  the  United  States.  It  takes  its  name  from 
the  Rev.  John  Harvard,  who  died  in  1638,  leaving  to 
the  institution  a  legacy  of  7791.  17s.  2d.  sterling.  The 
edifices  belonging  to  the  University  are  Harvard,  Mas 
sachusetts,  Hollis,  Stoughton,  Holworthy  and  Univer 
sity  Halls,  Holden  Chapel,  a  new  stone  building  re 
cently  erecled,  and  3  College  houses,  besides  that  for 
the  President.  These  buildings  are  all  situated  in  a 
spacious  square,  and  are  handsomely  shaded  with  a 
variety  of  trees.  There  are  annually  educated  here 
about  300  students.  The  amount  of  property  belong 
ing  to  the  institution,  it  is  said,  falls  little  short  of  $600,- 
000.  It  contains  an  extensive  philosophical  aparatus, 
and  a  library  of  about  25,000  volumes.  Cambridge 
contains  3  handsome  villages,  a  court  house,  jail,  state 
arsenal,  8  houses  of  public  worship,  and  about  5000  in 
habitants.  ^ 

Two  miles  from  Cambridge  is  the  city  of  Boston. 
The  two  places  are  connected  by  a  bridge  3846  feet 
long  and  40  wide,  with  a  causeway  of  3344  feet.  The 
cost  of  the  whole  was  $76,700. 

[For  a  description  of  Boston  see.  subsequent  pages.] 

FROM  WHITEHALL  TO  BOSTON— 178  miles. 

A  stage  leaves  Whitehall  three  times  a  week,  passing 
through  the  villages  of  Castleton  and  Rutland,  con 
necting  at  Chester  with  the  route  from  Saratoga  Springy 
and  reaches  Boston  the  third  day. 


CASTLfcTON.  329 

FAIRHAVEN,  9  miles  from  Whitehall,  contains  seve 
ral  mills  and  manufactories  of  iron,  and  about  50  houses. 

CASTLETON,  5  miles  farther,  is  a  handsome  village  of 
SO  or  90  houses,  and  contains  the  Rutland  county  acad 
emy  and  a  medical  college  ;  which  are  liberally  patron 
ized.  The  Vermont  Classical  Seminary,  recently  erected 
at  this  place,  under  the  superintendence  of  Messrs. 
Beck  and  Foot,  will  doubtless  ere  long  rank  among  the 
first  literary  institutions  in  the  United  States.  The 
building  erected  for  the  purpose,  is  situated  on  an  em 
inence  south  of  the  village,  and  commands  an  exten 
sive  view  of  a  rich  and  beautiful  country.  It  is  1 60  feet 
in  length,  and  40  in  breadth,  with  projections  in  the 
centre  and  ends  of  46  and  55  feet,  and  is  3  stories  high, 
exclusive  of  a  basement.  To  the  building  is  attached 
a  play-ground  of  about  six  acres,  a  part  of  which  is  to 
be  devoted  to  a  garden.  The  whole  course  of  instruc 
tion  is  on  a  scale  corresponding  with  that  of  the  most 
favored  seminaries  of  learning  in  the  country. 

About  half  a  mile  north  of  the  village,  at  the  junction 
of  the  Hubbardton  with  the  main  road,  are  slight  re 
mains  of  a  fort  and  breast  work,  which  were  occupied 
during  the  revolutionary  war ;  two  miles  north  of  which 
the  Hubbardton  road  passes  over  the  ground  where  a 
severe  action  was  fought  between  a,  detachment  of 
Burgoyne's  army  and  a  body  of  American  troops.  The 
latter  composed  the  rear  guard  of  the  Americans 
which  evacuated  Ticonderoga  in  July,  1777,  and  were 
commanded  by  Col.  Warner.  They  were  about  1000 
strong ;  and  were  overtaken  by  a  force  of  nearly  the 
same  number  under  Gen.  Frazer.  A  long,  severe,  and 
ob  stinate  conflict  ensued ;  when  the  arrival  of  General 


330      FROM  BURLINGTON  TO  BOSTON. 

Reidsell,  with  his  division  of  Germans,  compelled  the 
Americans  to  give  way  in  all  directions.  The  British 
loss  was  stated  by  Gen.  Burgoyne  at  35  killed  and  144 
wounded ;  and  the  American  loss  was  estimated  by 
Gen.  St.  Clair  at  50  killed  and  wounded.  It  is  generally 
supposed  that  the  loss  of  both  armies  was  much  greater. 

The  Americans  retreated  to  the  south,  and  took  part 
in  the  Bennington  battle  on  the  16th  of  August,  and  in 
the  capture  of  Burgoyne  at  Saratoga  in  October  fol 
lowing. 

RUTLAND,  10  miles  from  Castleton,  is  the  capital  of 
Rutland  county.  It  is  situated  3  miles  west  of  the 
Green  Mountains,  in  view  of  Killington  Peak,  and  for 
beauty  of  local  situation  is  not  surpassed  by  any  village 
in  the  northern  states.  It  contains  upwards  of  100 
houses,  a  bank,  a  court  house,  and  a  gaol. 

Ten  miles  from  Rutland,  in  the  town  of  Shrewsbury, 
the  road  reaches  the  foot  of  the  Green  Mountains, 
which  are  crossed  in  travelling  12  miles  farther.  No 
part  of  the  passage  is  precipitous ;  though  the  road  is 
less  pleasant  than  that  leading  from  Manchester.  (See 
p.  323.) 

CHESTER  is  40  miles  from  Rutland;  from  whence 
the  route  to  Boston  is  the  same  as  that  noticed  at  page 
324.) 

FROM  BURLINGTON  TO  BOSTON, 
(through  Winds&r,  Vt.) 

From  Burlington,  Vt.  where  the  Champlain  steam 
boats  touch  in  the  passage  up  and  down  the  lake,  sta 
ges  depart  for  Boston  three  times  a  week,  passing 
through  Montpclier  and  Windsor,  Vt.  Clarernont  and 


MONTPELIER. 


331 


Amherst,  N.  H.,  Billerica  and  Medford,  Mass.,  and 
reach  Boston  on  the  third  clay.  Distance  206  miles- 
Fare  $8.  The  intervening  distances  are  as  follows  : 


Miles. 

Williston, 8 

Richmond, 9 

Bolton, 2 

Waterbury, 8 

Moretown, 4 

Montpelier, 7 

Williamstown, 10 

Brookfield, 8 

Randolph, 12 

Royalton, 3 

Barnard, 6 

Woodstock, 8 

Windsor, 14 


Miles. 

Lcmpster, 12 

Washington, 7 

Hillsborough, 9 

Francistown, 9 

Mount  Vernon, 9 

Amherst, 6 

Merrimack, 3 

Dunstable, 7 

Tyngsborough, 6 

Chelmsford, 7 

Billerica, 4 

Woburn, 9 

Boston, 10 


Claremont, 

BURLINGTON.     (Seepage  318.) 

MONTPELIER,  is  situated  on  the  Onion  River,  a  little 
north  of  the  centre  of  the  state,  38  miles  from  Burling 
ton.  It  is  at  present  the  seat  of  government,  and  has 
a  state-house,  court-house,  gaol,  and  a  house  of  public 
worship,  besides  a  number  of  manufacturing  establish 
ments.  It  contains  about  2000  inhabitants. 

With  the  exception  of  a  narrow  vale,  through  which 
the  river  passes,  the  village  is  surrounded  by  lofty  hills 
and  mountains,  which  give  it  the  appearance  of  seclu 
sion  from  the  rest  of  the  world.  The  road  for  several 
miles  previous  to  reaching  the  village,  and  after  leaving 
it,  is  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  the  mountain  scene 
ry  is  unusually  romantic. 

In  passing  from  Montpelier  to  Randolph,  the  route  is 
on  what  is  termed  the  gulph  road.  This  gulph  is  six 


332  WOODSTOCK — WINDSOR. 

miles  in  extent,  between  lofty  mountains,  with  barely 
a  sufficient  space  for  a  road  and  the  White  river,  a  beau 
tifully  transparent  stream,  exhibiting,  in  most  instan 
ces,  a  bottom  of  white  gravel. 

RANDOLPH,  30  miles  from  Montpelier,  is  on  a  lofty 
ridge  of  land,  affording  some  of  the  finest  farms  in  the 
state.  The  village  is  small,  but  much  admired  for  its 
location  and  neatness. 

ROYALTON,  3  miles.    A  pleasant  village. 

WOODSTOCK,  14  miles,  the  capital  of  Windsor  coun 
ty,  is  a  place  of  considerable  business.  The  principal 
village,  called  Woodstock  Green,  is  on  the  bank  of  the 
Quoechy  river,  and  contains  a  court  house,  jail,  church 
and  a  marble  factory — also  an  extensive  manufactory 
of  scythes. 

WINDSOR,  14  miles,  is  a  beautiful  town  on  the  banks 
of  the  Connecticut.  The  houses  exhibit  a  very  neat 
and  handsome  appearance,  and  stand  in  a  fertile  and 
richly  cultivated  tract  of  country.  It  contains  a  flour 
ishing  Female  Seminary,  with  a  number  of  churches, 
and  the  Vermont  Penitentiary.  The  bridge  built  across 
the  Connecticut  at  this  place  is  one  of  the  handsomest 
on  the  river.  Jlscutney,  a  mountain  in  the  southwest 
part  of  the  town,  is  1732  feet  in  height,  and  is  well  wor 
thy  the  attention  of  those  who  take  delight  in  the  rich 
and  diversified  prospects  afforded  from  mountain  sum 
mits. 

At  Windsor,  the  route  crosses  the  Connecticut  river 
into  New-Hampshire,  and  proceeds  through  a  fertile 
country,  occasionally  interspersed  with  a  pleasant  vil 
lage,  to  Boston. 


HOUTE  TO  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


333 


FROM  BURLINGTON  TO  BOSTON, 

(By  way  of  the  White  Mountains  and  Concord,  JVeto- 

Hampshire — 265  miles.*) 

The  intermediate  distances  on  this  route  are  as  fol 
lows  : 


From  Burlington  to   Miles. 
Montpelier,  ....  38 
Littleton,  N.  H.  .  .  .  40 

Winnepiseogec 

Miles. 
4 

E   A   Crawford's      18 

17  202 

Notch  of  the  White 

4 

Mountains   »  .  •  .     5 

12 

Notch  House,  ...»     2 

6 

Crawford's  Farm,      6 
Bartlett  7 

Londonderry,  .... 
N.  H.  State  line,.. 

5 
12 

Ccnway    ........  10  126 

\ndover  Bridge,  .  . 

3 

Six  Mile  Pond,.  ...  11 

4 

Centre  Harbor,...  24 

Woburn,  ........ 

8 

5 

Union  Bridge,  ....     7 

4  265 

*  Strangers  designing  to  proceed  directly  to  Boston 
from  Burlington,  via  Concord,  N.  H.  without  visiting 
the  White  Mountains,  continue  on  the  route  from  Mont 
pelier  to  Randolph,  as  noticed  at  p.  331,  and  from  thence 
to  Hanover,  25  miles,  and  to  Concord  55  miles  farther. 
(The  route  from  the  latter  place  to  Boston  is  noticed  at 
p.  343.)  HANOVER  is  located  on  a  handsome  plain,  half 
a  mile  from  the  Connecticut  river,  and  contains  the 
buildings  of  Dartmouth  college  and  about  SO  dwelling 
houses.  The  college  derives  its  name  from  William, 
Earl  of  Darmouth,  one  of  its  principal  benefactors.  It 
was  founded  in  1769,  by  the  late  Doct.  Eleazer  Whee- 
lock,  and  is  in  a  flourishing  condition.  A  medical  in 
stitution  is  connected  with  the  college,  and  is  accom 
modated  with  a  brick  edifice,  containing,  besides  rooms 
for  students,  a  laboratory,  anatomical  museum,  miner- 
alogical  cabinet,  library  and  lecture  rooms.  The  num 
ber  of  students  educated  at  this  college  annually  is  be 
tween  2  and  300. 


334  ROUTE  TO  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 

A  stage  can  be  taken  at  Burlington  3  times  a  week 
for  Montpelier,  Vt.  distant  38  miles,  where  it  is  re 
commended  to  travellers  to  proceed  to  Littleton,  N.  H. 
40  miles  east  of  Montpelier,  from  whence  a  stage 
passes  twice  a  week  through  the  Notch  of  the  White 
Mountains  to  Conway  ;  and  from  thence  to  Portland, 
(Maine,)  three  times  a  week.  From  Littleton  to  Ethan 
A.  Crawford's,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  18  miles, 
about  half  the  distance  is  through  a  cultivated  country ; 
but  the  remaining  part  is  through  an  extensive,  and, 
but  for  the  road,  an  impenetrable  forest. 

The  first  view  of  the  White  Mountains,  as  distin 
guished  from  the  multitude  of  peaks  and  summits 
which  meet  the  eye  in  every  direction,  is  obtained  a 
short  distance  from  Littleton  ;  but  Mount  Washington 
is  not  seen  till  arriving  near  to  Crawford's.  The  first 
view  of  these  mountains  is  magnificent,  and  as  they 
are  approached  they  become  more  and  more  so  until 
the  bare,  bleak  summit  of  Mount  Washington  rising 
far  above  the  immense  piles  which  surround  it,  strikes 
the  traveller  with  awe  and  astonishment.  But  the  emo 
tions  which  one  receives  from  the  grand  and  majestic 
scenery  which  surrounds  him  here,  are  utterly  beyond 
the  power  of  description.  There  is  no  single  object 
upon  which  the  eye  rests  and  which  the  mind  may 
grasp,  but  the  vast  and  multiplied  features  of  the  land 
scape  actually  bewilder  while  they  delight. 

These  mountains  are  the  loftiest  in  the  U.  States  east 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  and  their  heights  above  the 
Connecticut  river  have  been  estimated  as  follows  : 
Washington,  5350  ft.;  Jefferson,  5261  ;  Adams,  5383  ; 
Madison,  5039  ;  Monroe,  4932  ;  Quincy,  4470.  From 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS.  3J*O 

the  summit  of  Mount  Washington,  the  Atlantic  ocean 
is  seen  at  Portland,  65  miles  S.  E. ;  the  Katahdin 
Mountains  to  the  N.  E.  near  the  sources  of  the  Penob- 
scot  river ;  the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont  on  the 
west ;  Mount  Monadnock,  120  miles  to  the  S.  W. ;  and 
numerous  lakes,  rivers,  &c.  within  a  less  circumference. 
The  Notch  or  Gap  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  mountains, 
and  is  a  deep  and  narrow  defile,  in  one  place  only  22 
feet  wide.  A  road  passes  through  which  is  crossed  by 
the  river  Saco ;  into  which  several  tributary  streams 
enter  from  the  mountain  heights,  forming  many  beau- 
ful  cascades.  Lafayette  Mountain  is  situated  in  the 
northeast  part  of  the  township  of  Franconia,  nearly 
equidistant  from  Mount  Washington  in  the  northeast, 
and  Moose-Hillock  in  the  southwest,  being  about  20 
miles  from  each  j  and  it  is  obviously  more  elevated 
than  any  other  summit  in  sight,  except  the  White 
Mountains. 

At  the  Franconia  Notch,  near  the  road  leading  from 
Franconia  to  Plymouth,  and  about  three  miles  south  of 
Mount  Lafayette,  a  foot  path  has  been  cleared  out  from 
the  road  to  the  top  of  the  mountain.  The  point  where 
the  path  commences  is  six  miles  from  the  Franconia 
iron  works,  and  the  length  of  it  from  the  road  to  the 
summit  is  three  miles;  and  throughout  this  distance 
it  is  almost  uniformly  steep.  The  ascent  for  the  dis 
tance  of  about  two  miles  is  through  a  thick  forest  of 
hemlock,  spruce,  &c.  Higher  up,  the  mountain  is  en 
compassed  with  a  zone,  about  half  a  mile  in  width,  cov 
ered  with  stunted  trees,  chiefly  hemlock  and  spruce. 
Above  the  upper  edge  of  this  zone,  which  is  about  half 
a  mile  from  the  top,  trees  and  shrubs  disappear.  The 

DD2 


336  WHITE   MOUNTAINS. 

summit  is  composed  chiefly  of  bare  rocks,  partly  in 
large  masses,  and  partly  broken  into  small  pieces. 

The  view  from  the  top  is  exceedingly  picturesque 
and  magnificent.  Although  it  is  not  so  extensive  as 
that  from  the  summit  of  Mount  Washington,,  yet  ow 
ing  to  the  more  advantageous  situation  of  Lafayette, 
being  more  central  as  it  respects  this  mountainous  re 
gion,  it  is  not  inferior  to  it  in  either  beauty  or  grandeur. 
The  view  to  the  north-east,  east,  south  and  southwest, 
is  one  grand  panorama  of  mountain  scenery,  present 
ing  more  than  fifty  summits,  which  when  viewed  from 
this  elevation,  do  not  appear  to  differ  greatly  in  height. 
Some  of  these  mountains  are  covered  with  verdure  to 
the  top,  while  the  summits  of  others  are  composed  of 
naked  rocks ;  and  down  the  sides  of  many  of  them 
may  be  seen  slides  or  avalanches  of  earth,  rocks  and 
trees  more  or  less  extensive,  which  serve  to  diversify 
the  scene.  The  only  appearance  of  cultivation  in  this 
whole  compass  is  confined  to  a  few  farms  seen  in  a  di 
rection  west  of  south,  on  the  road  to  Plymouth,  extend 
ing  along  the  Pemigewasset  branch  of  the  Merrimack. 
To  the  west  is  seen  the  territory  watered  by  the  Con 
necticut  and  the  Ammonoosuck. 

At  a  place  in  the  road  through  the  Franconia  Notch 
where  the  path  up  the  mountain  commences,  is  exhi 
bited  to  the  view  of  the  traveller,  on  the  mountain 
opposite  to  Lafayette,  the  Profile  or  the  Old  Man  of  the 
Mountain,  a  singular  lusus  naturce,  and  a  remarkable 
curiosity.  It  is  situated  on  the  brow  of  the  peak  or 
precipice,  which  rises  almost  perpendicularly  from  the 
surface  of  a  small  lake,  directly  in  front,  to  the  height 
(as  estimated)  of  from  600  to  1000  feet.  The  front  of 


WKtlfE  MOUNTAINS.  $$1 

this  precipice  is  formed  of  solid  rock,  but  as  viewed 
from  the  point  where  the  profile  is  seen,  the  whole  of  it 
appears  to  be  covered  with  trees  and  vegetation,  ex 
cept  about  space  enough  for  a  side  view  of  the  Old 
Man's  bust.  All  the  principal  features  of  the  human 
face,  as  seen  in  a  profile,  are  formed  with  surprising 
exactness.  The  little  lake  at  the  bottom  of  the  preci 
pice  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  is  one  of  the 
sources  of  the  Pemigewasset  river.  Half  a  mile  to  the 
north  of  this,  there  is  another  lake,  surrounded  with 
romantic  scenery,  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  and  more 
than  half  a  mile  in  breadth.  This  is  one  of  the  sources 
of  the  southern  branch  of  the  Ammonoosuck,  which 
flows  into  the  Connecticut.  These  lakes  are  both  sit 
uated  in  the  Notch,  very  near  the  road,  and  near  to 
the  point  where  the  steep  ascent  of  Mount  Lafayette 
commences.  The  northern  lake  is  900  feet  above  the 
site  of  the  Franconia  iron- works,  and  the  highest  point 
in  the  road  through  the  Notch  is  102S  feet  above  the 
same  level.  Other  curiosities  in  this  vicinity  are,  the 
Basin  and  the  Pulpit. 

The  portion  of  the  Gap,  including  the  Notch  in  the 
White  Mountains,  which  is  the  most  sublime  and  inter 
esting  is  about  5  or  6  miles  in  length.  It  is  composed 
of  a  double  barrier  of  mountains,  rising  very  abruptly 
from  both  sides  of  the  wild  roaring  river  Saco,  which 
frequently  washes  the  feet  of  both  barriers.  Sometimes 
there  is  not  room  for  a  single  carriage  to  pass  between 
the  stream  and  the  mountains,  and  the  road  is  cut  into 
the  mountain  itself.  This  double  barrier  rises  on  each 
side  to  the  height  of  nearly  half  a  mile  in  perpendicular 
altitude,  and  is  capped  here  and  there  by  proud  castel- 


338  WHITE  MOUNTAINS, 

lated  turrets,  standing  high  above  the  continued  ridges. 
These  are  not  straight,  but  are  formed  into  numerous 
zig-zag  turns,  which  frequently  cut  off  the  view  and 
seem  to  imprison  the  traveller  in  the  vast,  gloomy  gulf. 
The  sides  of  the  mountains  are  deeply  furrowed  and 
scarred  by  the  tremendous  effects  of  the  memorable 
deluge  and  avalanches  of  1826.  No  tradition  existed 
of  any  slide  in  former  times,  and  such  as  are  now  ob 
served  to  have  formerly  happened,  had  been  complete 
ly  veiled  by  forest  growth  and  shrubs.  At  length,  on 
the  28th  of  June,  two  months  before  the  fatal  avalanche, 
there  was  one  not  far  from  the  Willey  house,  which 
so  far  alarmed  the  family,  that  they  erected  an  encamp 
ment  a  little  distance  from  their  dwelling,  intending  it 
as  a  place  of  refuge.  On  the  fatal  night,  it  was  impen 
etrably  dark  and  frightfully  tempestuous ;  the  lonely 
family  had  retired  to  rest,  in  their  humble  dwelling,  six 
miles  from  the  nearest  human  creature.  The  avalan 
ches  descended  in  every  part  of  the  gulf,  for  a  distance 
of  two  miles ;  and  a  very  heavy  one  began  on  the 
mountain  top,  immediately  above  the  house,  and  de 
scended  in  a  direct  line  towards  it ;  the  sweeping  tor 
rent,  a  river  from  the  clouds,  and  a  river  full  of  trees, 
earth,  stones,  and  rocks,  rushed  to  the  house  and  mar 
vellously  divided  within  six  feet  of  it,  and  just  behind 
it,  and  passed  on  either  side,  sweeping  away  the  stable 
and  horses,  and  completely  encircling  the  dwelling,  but 
leaving  it  untouched.  At  this  time,  probably  towards 
midnight,  (as  the  state  of  the  beds  and  apparel,  &c. 
shewed  that  they  had  retired  to  rest,)  the  family  issued 
from  their  house,  and  were  swept  away  by  the  tor 
rent. 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS.  359 

Search  was,  for  two  or  three  days,  made  in  vain  for 
the  bodies,  when  they  were  at  length  found.  They 
were  evidently  floated  along  by  the  torrent  and  cover 
ed  by  the  drift  wood.  A  pole,  with  a  board  nailed 
across  it,  like  a  guide  post,  now  indicates  the  spot 
where  the  bodies  were  found.  Had  the  family  remained 
in  the  house  they  would  have  been  entirely  safe.  Even 
the  little  green  in  front  and  east  of  the  house  was  un 
disturbed,  and  a  flock  of  sheep,  (a  part  of  the  posses- 
ion  of  the  family)  remained  on  this  small  spot  of  ground, 
and  were  found  there  the  next  morning  in  safety — al 
though  the  torrent  dividing  just  above  the  house,  and 
forming  a  curve  on  both  sides,  had  swept  completely 
around  them,  and  again  united  below,  and  covered  the 
meadows  and  orchard  with  ruins,  which  remain  there 
to  this  day.  Nine  persons  were  destroyed  by  this  ca 
tastrophe,  and  the  story  of  their  virtues  and  their  fate 
is  often  told  to  the  traveller  by  the  scattered  popula 
tion  of  these  mountain  valleys,  in  a  style  of  simple 
pathos  and  minuteness  of  detail,  which  has  all  the  in 
terest  of  truth  and  incident  of  romance  in  its  recital. 
The  scene  of  this  disaster  was  about  7  miles  from 
Ethan  A.  Crawford's,  and  2  miles  from  the  commence- 
of  the  Notch,  where  Thomas  Crawford,  a  brother  of 
Ethan,  now  resides. 

The  number  of  visitors  to  the  White  Mountains  has 
been  considerably  increased,  on  account  of  the  inter 
est  excited  by  these  avalanches.  The  most  sublime 
views  of  them,  (several  of  which  are  nearly  equal  to 
the  memorable  one  which  swept  away  the  unfortunate 
Willey  family,)  may  be  seen  all  along  for  several  miles, 
in  passing  through  the  Notch.  They  are  also  observer 


340  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 

from  various  points  in  the  country  around,  extending 
down  the  sides  of  many  of  the  elevated  mountains  ; 
and  the  astonishing  effects  of  this  extraordinary  inun 
dation  are  also  witnessed  in  the  great  enlargement  of 
the  channels  of  the  streams  which  rise  in  these  cluster 
of  mountains.  This  is  the  fact  especially  with  regard 
to  the  channel  of  the  principal  branch  of  the  Ammo- 
noosuck,  which  rises  near  the  summit  of  Mount  Wash 
ington. 

The  camp  which  was  built  by  Mr.  Crawford  for  the 
accommodation  of  visitors  over  night,  two  miles  and 
a  quarter  from  the  summit  of  Mount  Washington,  was 
situated  near  this  branch,  and  was  carried  away  by 
the  swelling  of  the  stream.  A  small  camp  has  been 
erected  in  its  place,  but  it  is  of  little  use,  and  affords  no 
accommodations  for  lodging  visitors  over  night. 

The  distance  from  Crawford's  house  to  the  summit 
of  Mount  Washington,  is  nine  miles.  Through  a  pail 
of  this  distance  a  carriage  road  is  now  made,  leaving 
only  4  or  5  miles  to  be  ascended  on  foot.  The  time 
usually  occupied  in  asccending  the  mountain,  reckon 
ing  from  the  time  of  leaving  Crawford's  house  to  the 
time  of  returning  to  it  again,  is  from  ten  to  fourteen 
hours  ;  and  the  shortest  time  in  which  the  enterprise 
has  been  performed  is  about  eight  hours. 

Continuing  the  route  through  the  Notch,  the  first 
house  reached,  is  the  Elder  Crawford's,  six  miles  from 
the  "  Notch  house,"  as  that  once  occupied  by  the  un 
fortunate  Willey  is  called.  From  thence  to  Bartlett  is 
7  miles.  From  this  place  to  Conway,  which  is  ten 
miles,  there  are  more  appearaces  of  cultivation,  parti 
cularly  in  the  little  valley  through  which  the  road  pass- 


FROM  CONWAY  TO  CONCORD.        341 

es.  The  country  around,  however,  is  still  wild  and 
unimproved,  displaying  a  succession  of  bold  and  lofty 
mountain  scenery.  The  prospect  at  the  village  of 
Conway  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  high 
mountains,  and  the  several  summits  of  the  White  Moun 
tains,  rising  at  30  miles  distant,  are  more  easily  distin 
guished  than  at  any  point  near  them. 

FRYEBURGH,  in  Maine,  is  10  miles  from  Conway, 
and  is  generally  taken  in  the  route  to  the  White 
Mountains  from  the  east.  It  is  a  considerable  village, 
built  upon  a  wide  plain  upon  two  broad  streets,  and 
has  a  respectable  academy.  It  is  chiefly  interesting 
as  being  associated  with  the  early  history  of  our  country. 
About  a  mile  from  the  village  is  Lovell's  pond,  the  scene 
of  the  bloody  fight  in  1725  between  a  gallant  band  of 
Americans  under  Capt.  Lovell,  and  the  remnant  of  the 
Pequawcket  tribe  under  the  renowned  Chief  Paugus. 
From  Fryeburgh  to  Portland,  distant  52  miles,  the 
road  is  over  a  dull  and  uninteresting  country  ;  but  trav 
ellers  designing  to  visit  that  place  in  connection  with 
the  White  Mountains,  will  find  it  the  most  direct  route. 
[For  a  description  of  Portland,  see  the  route  from  Boston 
to  that  place  in  subsequent  pages.] 

FROM  CONWAY  TO  CONCORD,  N.  H.— 76  miles. 
Returning  to  Conway,  and  proceeding  on  the  route 
to  Concord,  Six  Mile  Pond  is  passed  in  going  11  miles, 
and  Centre  Harbor  is  reached  in  going  24  miles  farther. 
The  road,  for  20  or  30  miles,  is  through  a  valley  bor 
dered  with  lofty  mountains,  exhibiting  only  an  occa 
sional  settlement. 


342        CENTRE  HARBOR — CONCORD. 

CENTRE  HARBOR  is  on  Lake  Winnipiseogee,  the 
largest  lake  in  the  state.  It  is  23  miles  long  and  from 
6  to  14  broad,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  beautiful  and 
sublime  scenery.  From  the  top  of  RED  MOUNTAIN,  in 
Centre  Harbor,  1500  feet  high,  and  which  is  accessible 
for  about  two  thirds  of  the  way  in  a  carriage,  there  is 
an  extensive  prospect.  At  the  distance  of  70  miles  to 
the  southwest,  may  be  seen  Mount  Monadnock ;  at 
the  west,  the  Kyarsage  and  Simson  mountains ;  at  the 
northwest  the  Moose-Hillock  ;  at  the  north,  the  Sand 
wich  mountains,  with  the  Squam  lake  intervening ;  at 
the  southeast,  the  Winnipiseogee  lake,  with  its  numer 
ous  islands,  bays,  and  the  mountains  which  rise  from 
its  borders,  including  Ossippee  on  the  northeast,  Gun- 
stock  on  the  south,  and  a  semi-circular  mountain  at  the 
termination  of  the  lake  at  the  southeast ;  the  whole 
forming  a  vast  billowy  ocean  of  lofty  mountains,  with 
their  grand  intersecting  curves,  exhibiting  a  complete 
panorama  of  the  sublimest  mountain  scenery. 

SQUAM  LAKE,  which  lies  west  of  the  mountain,  is  10 
miles  long  and  5  wide,  and  like  the  Winnipiseogee,  is 
sprinkled  with  numerous  small  and  beautiful  islands. 
The  finest  of  trout  are  caught  in  these  lakes,  and  their 
shores  abound  with  an  abundance  of  game,  affording 
to  the  angler  and  fowler  ample  means  of  employment 
as  well  as  amusement. 

The  route  from  Centre  Harbor  to  Concord,  41  miles, 
passes  through  an  interesting  country,  affording  a  view 
of  several  flourishing  manufacturing  villages. 

CONCORD  is  the  capital  of  New-Hampshire.  The  vil 
lage  is  principally  composed  of  two  streets  on  the  west 


BOUTE  FROM/X>NCORD  TO^BOSTON.  343 

bank  of  the  Merrimack  river,  and  contains  a  state 
house,  state  prison,  town  house,  bank,  several  church 
es,  4  or  5  printing  offices,  and  rising  of  200  dwelling- 
houses.  The  state  house,  located  near  the  centre  of 
the  village,  is  an  elegant  building  of  hewn  granite,  100 
feet  long,  with  a  large  hall  on  the  first  floor,  and  the 
senate  and  representatives'  chambers  on  the  second. 
The  building  is  surrounded  by  a  spacious  yard,  which 
is  enclosed  with  a  handsome  wall.  The  state  prison, 
a  strong  building,  is  a  short  distance  from  the  state 
house. 

The  Merrimack  river  is  navigable  for  largo  boats 
from  Concord  to  Chelmsford ;  from  whence  to  Boston 
the  communication  is  continued  in  the  Middlesex  canal, 
28  miles  long. 

FROM  CONCORD  TO  BOSTON. 

Stages  leave  Concord  every  day  at  7  A.  M.  passing 
through  Pembroke,  Hookset,  Chester,  Londonderry, 
New-Salem,  Methuen,  Andover,  Reading,  Stoneham, 
Medford  and  Charlestown,  to  Boston.  Distance  68 
miles.  Fare  $3. 

PEMBROKE,  4  miles  from  Concord,  is  located  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Merrimack  river.  It  is  a  thriving  village, 
and  besides  several  handsome  dwellings,  contains  2 
churches,  an  academy,  4  paper  mills  and  a  cotton  fac 
tory. 

HOOKSETT,  3  miles  farther.  The  Merrimack  here 
descends  16  feet  in  the  course  of  30  rods. 

CHESTER,  15  miles,  is  a  pleasant  village,  containing 
a  flourishing  Academy. 


344  ANDOVEK — LOWELL- 

LONDONDERRY,  5  miles  from  Chester,  is  principally 
settled  with  emigrants  from  Ireland.  It  contains  two 
small  villages,  two  churches  and  an  academy. 

METHUEN,  13  miles  farther,  is  situated  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Merrimack.  Near  the  village  on  the  Spick- 
et  creek,  is  a  handsome  fall  of  30  feet.  A  bridge  here 
crosses  the  river  to 

ANDOVER,  which  contains  an  extensive  theological 
seminary  and  a  flourishing  academy.  The  former 
was  founded  in  1808  and  has  already  received  more 
than  $350,000  in  contributions,  principally  from  six 
families.  The  buildings  are  on  a  lofty  eminence,  and 
assume  a  very  rich  and  handsome  appearance. 

LOWELL,  12  miles  from  Boston,  is  one  of  the  largest 
manufacturing  towns  in  the  U.  States.  It  is  located  on 
the  Merrimack  river  and  the  Middlesex  canal  leading 
to  Boston.  The  falls  of  the  river  at  this  place  are  30 
feet,  and  afford  the  most  ample  means  for  extensive  op 
erations  by  water  power.  The  village  and  the  first  facto 
ry  were  commenced  in  1813,  and  the  place  now  as 
sumes  the  character  of  a  large  bustling  town,  laid  into 
streets  with  much  taste  and  elegance,  and  the  whole 
appearance  of  the  place  rendered  peculiarly  interesting 
from  the  magnificent  and  numerous  factories  and  pub 
lic  buildings  with  which  it  is  adorned. 

MEDFORD,  4  miles  from  Boston,  is  on  the  Mystic  riv 
er  j  3  miles  from  which  is  the  handsome  village  of 
CHARLESTOWN.     ( See  p.  364. ) 

BOSTON  is  1  mile  farther,  the  Charlestown  bridge  in 
tervening.  (Seep.  356.) 


ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY  TO  BOSTON.      345 

FROM  ALBANY  TO  BOSTON. 

From  Albany,  stages  leave  daily  for  Boston,  which 
is  distant  164  miles,  and  the  route  is  performed  in  two 
days.  Fare  $8,75.  One  line  passes  through  Benning- 
ton  and  Brattleborough,  Vt.,  but  the  most  usual  route 
is  through  New-Lebanon,  Pittsfield,  Northampton, 
Brookfield,  Worcester  and  Watertown. 

The  several  stages  and  distances  on  the  last  men 
tioned  route  are  as  follows : 


Miles. 

Schodack, 5 

Nassau, 12 

New-Lebanon, 


Pittsfield, 9 

Dalston, 6 

Peru, 7 

Worthington, 8 

Chesterfield, 9 

Northampton, 13 


Miles. 

Belchertown, 10 

Ware, 9 

Brookfield, 8 

Spencer, 7 

Leicester, 5 

Worcester, 6 

Framingham, 20 

Weston, 5 

Watertown, 5 

Boston, 10 


Hadley, 

ALBANY,  (Seep.  135.) 

NEW-LEBANON  is  a  pleasant  village  in  the  town  of 
Canaan,  N.  Y.  bordering  on  Pittsfield,  Mass,  and  is  25 
miles  from  Albany.  It  contains  a  mineral  spring  of 
considerable  importance,  which  is  much  frequented  in 
the  summer  months  by  invalids.  It  is  principally  used 
for  the  purposes  of  bathing  ;  but  is  much  inferior  to  the 
Saratoga  waters  either  as  a  medicine  or  beverage. 
The  fountain  issues  from  the  side  of  a  high  hill,  in  great 
abundance,  discharging  at  the  rate  of  18  barrels  per 
minute  ;  and  is  used  as  a  feeder  for  several  mills.  The 
water  is  remarkably  pure  and  soft,  and  is  perfectly 


346  NEW-LEBANON — P1TTSFJELD. 

tasteless  and  inodorous.  Gas,  in  considerable  quanti 
ties,  escapes  from  the  pebbles  and  sand,  and  keeps  the 
water  in  constant  motion.  It  contains  small  quanti 
ties  of  Muriate  of  Lime,  Muriate  of  Soda,  Sulphate  of 
Lime,  and  Carbonate  of  Lime ;  and  its  temperature  is 
73  degrees  of  Farenheit. 

Convenient  bathing  houses  are  kept  in  readiness  at 
all  times,  for  the  accommodation  of  strangers;  and 
there  are  a  number  of  boarding  establishments  which, 
at  different  rates,  afford  proportionate  fare. 

Near  the  spring  is  what  is  called  the  Shakers' Village, 
containing  a  number  of  neat,  plain  buildings,  generally 
painted  yellow.  The  property  of  this  society  is  held  in 
common ;  and  they  are  said  to  possess  nearly  3000 
acres  of  fertile  land.  Besides  agricultural  pursuits, 
they  carry  on  several  branches  of  manufactures,  which 
are  distinguished  by  excellence  of  workmanship.  The 
singular  regulations  and  ceremonies  of  these  people, 
constitute  an  object  of  attention  to  tourists.  Nine 
miles  from  New-Lebanon  is  the  village  of 

PITTSFIELD,  rendered  elegant  from  its  local  situation, 
and  from  the  neatness  of  its  buildings.  The  village 
contains  about  160  houses,  a  bank,  an  academy,  2  print 
ing  offices  and  several  stores.  Here  are  annually  held 
the  Cattle  Show  and  Fair  of  the  celebrated  Berkshire 
Agricultural  Society,  which  has  been  incorporated  by 
act  of  the  legislature  ;  and  which  has  done  more  to 
wards  improving  the  condition  of  agriculture  than  any 
other  institution  of  the  kind  in  the  Union.  The  show 
and  fair,  which  occupy  two  days,  never  fail  to  impart 


NORTHAMPTON.  347 

an  unusual  degree  of  interest,  and  are  always  attend 
ed  by  immense  crowds  of  citizens.* 

NORTHAMPTON  is  43  miles  from  Pittsfield,  and  is  one 
of  the  finest  towns  in  New-England.  It  is  situated  a 
mile  and  a  half  west  of  Connecticut  river,  and  was  set- 


*  About  24  miles  north  of  Pittsfield,  in  the  town  of 
Adams,  there  is  a  Natural  Bridge,  but  little  inferior  to 
the  celebrated  natural  bridge  in  Virginia.  The  excava 
tion  or  gutter  is  in  solid  lime  rock,  40  rods  in  length, 
varying  from  50  to  60  feet  in  height,  through  which 
runs  Hudson's  Brook  or  the  north  branch  of  the  Hoo- 
sic,  occupying  from  13  to  14  feet,  which  is  the  uninter 
rupted  width  of  the  cup.  Over  this  the  bridge  is 
thrown,  being  62  feet  from  the  bed  of  the  brook,  15 
feet  long  10  wide,  arched  beneath,  and  what  renders  it 
a  matter  of  greater  curiosity,  the  arch  is  perfectly 
smooth,  and  beautifully  white.  On  the  west  side  of 
the  arch  is  a  circular  cut  room,  large  enough  to  contain 
ten  persons.  The  whole  place  bears  the  marks  of  be 
ing  wrought  by  the  irritation  of  the  waters  in  a  most 
workmanlike  manner.  For  ages  this  cause  must  have 
operated  in  producing  the  result.  In  the  neighbor 
hood  of  the  bridge  the  rocks  are  somewhat  open  ;  up 
on  examining  which,  they  are  found  leading  to  large 
caverns,  worked  out  by  the  constant  friction  of  water. 
The  roar  of  water  and  the  sublimity  of  the  scenery, 
produce  an  indescribable  sensation  upon  the  visitor 
which  induces  him  to  retreat,  being  warned  that  he 
stands  on  slippery  places.  There  are  many  traditions 
respecting  the  precipice — one  is,  that  a  war  party  of 
Indians,  on  an  expedition  to  Brookfield,  in  one  of  the 
early  Indian  wars,  was  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks 
below.  Some  fifteen  or  twenty  years  ago,  a  Mr. 
Briggs,  then  a  student  in  William's  College,  visited  the 
place  unaccompanied.  Curiosity  tempted  him  to  ex 
plore  more  fully  the  precipice,  and,  by  the  assistance 

EE2 


348  MOUNT  HOLYOKE. 

tlod  as  early  as  the  year  1654.  It  contains  a  bank, 
2  printing  offices,  court  house,  gaol,  and  300  dwellings, 
some  of  which  are  very  elegant.  The  Congregational 
church,  which  is  built  of  wood,  is  considered  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  structures  in  the  state.  There  are  sev 
eral  manufactories  here  ;  and  the  place  exhibits  an 
unusual  degree  of  enterprize  and  wealth.  The  Far- 
mington  canal  commences  at  this  place,  and  extends  to 
New-Haven,  Conn.  60  miles. 

MOUNT  HOLYOKE,  in  the  vicinity  of  Northampton,  is 
much  frequented  by  tourists.  It  is  situated  on  the  east 
side  of  the  river  opposite  to  Northampton.  The  height 
of  this  mountain  above  the  level  of  the  river  is  1070 
feet.  In  consequence  of  the  resort  to  this  place,  which 
has  been  not  less  than  from  two  to  five  thousand  an- 


of  poles,  he  descended  to  the  base  of  it.  Here  his  eyes 
feasted  upon  the  wonders  of  nature.  His  curiosity  be 
ing  gratified,  he  began  to  think  of  returning.  After  re 
peated  trials  he  gave  it  up,  and  inscribed  on  the  rock 
his  farewell  to  his  friends  and  the  world.  His  voice 
could  not  reach  the  habitation  of  man,  and  the  rocks 
were,  to  all  appearance,  to  be  his  grave.  He,  however, 
began  to  repeat  the  notching  in  the  side,  which  was 
marble,  and  after  a  painful  labor  of  several  hours,  he 
effected  his  escape.  But  the  exertion  proved  too  much  ; 
it  undermined  his  health,  and  in  a  few  months  he  was 
conveyed  to  his  grave.  This  place  was  discovered  by 
a  Mr.  Hudson,  while  travelling  the  wilderness,  a  few 
years  before  the  French  war.  He  came  to  it  in  the 
night,  where  he  remained,  and  heard  the  roaring  of  the 
mighty  torrent  beneath  him.  The  next  morning  he 
perceived  that  had  he  advanced  a  few  steps  more  he 
would  have  been  plunged  into  eternity.  From  this 
circumstance,  the  brook  and  the  falls  bear  his  name. 


LEAD  MIKE.  349 

nually,  two  buildings  have  been  erected  on  its  summit 
for  the  purpose  of  accommodating  visitors  with  re 
freshments.  The  beautiful  and  extensive  prospect  af 
forded  from  the  top  of  the  mountain,  will  amply  com 
pensate  the  labor  and  difficulty  of  the  ascent.  The 
view  embraces  eminences  160  miles  apart,  with  sever 
al  beautiful  villages  and  a  rich  and  fertile  country  in 
tervening,  and  is  said  to  be  unrivalled  in  the  eastern 
states. 

THE  LEAD  MINE  at  Southampton,  8  miles  south 
west  of  Northampton,  is  an  object  of  much  interest, 
and  should  be  visited,  if  practicable,  in  an  excursion  to 
the  eastern  states.  The  vein  is  6  or  8  feet  in  diameter, 
and  declines  10  or  15  degrees  from  a  perpendicular.  It 
has  been  explored  to  the  depth  of  40  or  50  feet  and  30 
or  40  rods  in  length ;  and  the  ore  is  found  in  masses 
from  a  quarter  of  an  inch  to  a  foot  in  diameter.  The 
Journal  of  Science  remarks,  that  "  at  the  depth  above 
mentioned,  the  water  became  so  abundant  that  it  was 
thought  advisable  to  abandon  a  perpendicular  explora 
tion,  and  to  descend  to  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  the  east, 
nearly  80  rods  from  the  vein,  and  attempt  a  horizontal 
drift,  or  adit ;  and  ever  since  its  commencement,  eight 
or  ten  years  ago,  the  working  of  the  vein  has  ceased. 
This  drift  is  now  carried  into  the  hill,  on  an  exact  level, 
nearly  60  rods,  and  the  workmen  told  me,  that  not  less 
than  $20,000  had  been  expended  upon  it.  The  rocks 
that  have  been  penetrated,  reckoning  from  the  mouth 
of  the  drift  inwards,  are  geest,  the  red  and  gray  slates 
of  the  coal  formation,  with  thin  beds  of  coal  and  mica 
slate,  and  granite  alternating.  Probably  the  funda 
mental  dcposite  of  granite  is  now  uncovered  ;  and  the 


350  LEAD  MINE. 

principal  vein  of  galena  cannot  be  far  distant.  Several 
small  branch  veins  of  crystalized  quartz  and  galena 
have  been  crossed,  and  several  specimens  of  these,  col 
lected  by  Dr.  Hunt,  were  very  rich  and  beautiful ;  the 
crystals  of  pure  galena  sometimes  exhibit,  on  their  fa 
ces,  insulated  crystals  of  honey  colored  carbonate  of 
lime.  The  principal  vein  will  be  found  not  less,  I 
should  judge,  than  150  feet  below  the  surface ;  and 
when  that  time  comes,  it  is  confidently  expected,  not 
only  that  the  proprietors  will  be  rewarded  for  the  great 
expense  they  have  incurred,  but  also,  that  many  a  rich 
specimen  will  be  found  to  ornament  the  mineral  cabi- 
ets  of  our  country,  and  to  vie  in  beauty  with  the  lead 
ores  of  Europe. 

The  mouth  of  the  drift  is  4  or  5  feet  wide,  and  about 
3  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  The  water  is 
deep  enough  the  whole  length  of  it,  to  admit  the  pas 
sage  of  a  loaded  boat.  The  person  wishing  to  explore 
this  internal  canal,  must  fire  a  gun  at  the  entrance,  or 
beat  heavily  with  a  sledge  on  the  timbers  that  support 
the  soil ;  in  10  or  15  minutes,  he  will  perceive  a  gentle 
undulation  of  the  water,  and  soon  after,  a  boat  advan 
cing  with  lighted  lamps  and  a  rower ;  having  seated 
himself  on  the  bottom  of  this  boat,  and  provided  him 
self  with  an  additional  garment,  he  is  prepared  for  his 
subterranean  expedition.  As  he  enters  the  passage, 
he  will  for  a  moment  experience,  or  imagine  he  experi 
ences,  a  little  difficulty  of  breathing.  But  he  will  soon 
become  reconciled  to  his  condition  ;  and  after  passing 
about  100  feet  in  the  excavation,  for  which  distance  the 
soil  is  supported  by  timbers,  he  will  find  occasionally 
more  room,  so  that  he  can  stand  erect.  If  he  looks 


HADLEY.  351 

back,  after  having  advanced  several  hundred  feet,  the 
light  at  the  entrance  will  appear  diminished  to  the  size 
of  a  candle ;  and  before  he  reaches  the  extremity,  it 
becomes  invisible.  About  half  way  from  the  entrance 
to  the  end  of  the  drift,  he  will  pass  a  shaft,  down  which 
a  small  brook  is  turned,  for  the  purpose  of  aiding  the 
ventilator.  When  he  reaches  the  end  of  the  drift,  he 
finds  himself  to  have  penetrated  nearly  60  rods,  chiefly 
into  solid  rock. 

The  miners  do  not  quit  the  drift  when  they  blast,  but 
retire  behind  a  breast  work  thrown  up  for  the  purpose. 
One  man  has  been  an  inmate  of  that  dark  recess  eight 
or  ten  years  without  suffering  in  his  health. 

Every  mineralogist  passing  that  way,  will  of  course 
visit  this  drift.  Intelligent  gentlemen  without  profes 
sional  views,  and  even  ladies,  not  unfrequently  enter 
this  cavity." 

HADLEY,  2  miles  from  Northampton,  is  one  of  the 
oldest  towns  in  the  state.  It  was  the  head  quarters  of 
the  army  employed  for  the  defence  of  the  towns  on 
the  Connecticut  river,  in  the  war  with  Phillip  in  1675- 
6  ;  and  was,  for  a  long  time,  the  place  of  residence  of 
the  two  regicides  or  judges,  Whalley  and  GofTe,  in  the 
time  of  Charles  the  second.  On  the  town  being  at 
tacked  by  the  Indians  during  this  war,  a  stranger,  ven 
erable  in  appearance,  and  differing  in  his  apparel  from 
the  rest  of  the  inhabitants,  suddenly  presented  himself 
at  the  head  of  the  colonial  troops,  and  encourraged 
them  by  his  advice  and  example  to  perseverance  in  de 
fending  the  place.  To  his  experience  in  military  tac 
tics  and  courage,  in  a  great  measure,  was  a  defeat  of 
the  Indians  attributable.  When  they  retreated,  the 


352  HADLEY. 

stranger  disappeared  ;  and  in  those  times  of  supersti 
tion,  it  was  verily  believed  by  many  that  he  was  the 
gwrdian  angel  of  the  place.  But  he  was  no  other  than 
Col.  Goffe,  who  seeing  the  village  in  danger,  left  his 
concealment  to  unite  with  its  inhabitants  in  a  vigorous 
defence. 

In  connection  with  the  history  of  this  place,  the  fol 
lowing  biographical  sketch  of  Goffe,  Whalley  and  Dix- 
well  may  not  prove  uninteresting : 

On  the  restoration  of  the  English  monarch,  Charles 
2d,  in  1660,  several  of  the  judges  who  sat  on  the  trial 
of  Charles  1st,  were  seized,  condemned  and  executed. 
Others,  foreseeing  the  result,  escaped.  Whalley  and 
Goffe,  two  of  the  number,  came  to  Boston  •  where,  for 
a  time,  they  received  the  hospitality  due  to  their  rank. 
But  on  learning  that  several  of  the  regicides  had  been 
executed,  and  that  Whalley  and  Goffe  had  not  been  in 
cluded  in  the  act  of  pardon,  the  people  who  had  har 
bored  them  began  to  be  alarmed  ;  and  the  two  judges 
abruptly  departed  for  Connecticut.  Subsequently,  the 
King's  proclamation  was  received,  requiring  their  ap 
prehension.  They,  however,  eluded  the  vigilance  of 
their  pursurers,  by  secreting  themselves  in  a  cavo  and 
other  secret  places  at  New-Haven,  where  they  contin 
ued,  between  three  and  four  years,  until  their  retreat 
was  discovered  by  the  Indians.  Finding  that  they 
could  no  longer  remain  at  New-Haven  in  safety,  and 
that  a  vigilant  search  for  them  was  still  continued, 
they  resolved  to  remove  into  a  more  secluded  part  of 
the  country.  A  friend  had  succeeded  in  inducing  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Russell,  of  Hadley,  to  receive  them ;  and  af 
ter  a  toilsome  journey  by  night,  they  reached  his  houso 


WARE  FACTORY  VILLAGE.         353 

in  October,  1664.  In  a  chamber  of  this  house,  (which 
was  situate  on  the  east  side,  and  near  the  centre  of  the 
present  main  street,)  having  a  secret  passage  to  the 
cellar,  they  remained  undiscovered  for  fifteen  or  sixteen 
years.  During  this  period,  Goflfe  held  a  correspon 
dence  with  his  wife  in  England,  under  an  assumed 
name  ;  and  in  a  letter  of  April,  1679,  it  is  stated  that 
Whalley  had  died  some  time  previous,  at  Mr.  Russell's. 
His  bones  were  discovered  not  many  years  since  in  a 
sort  of  tomb  adjoining  the  cellar  wall  of  Mr.  Russell's 
house. 

Not  long  after  Goffe  and  Whalley  arrived  at  Hadley, 
they  were  joined  by  Col.  John  Dixwell,  another  of  the 
judges.  After  remaining  some  time,  he  went  to  New- 
Haven,  assumed  the  name  of  Davids,  was  married,  had 
several  children,  and  his  real  name  was  not  known  un- 
till  his  death  in  1689.  He  was  buried  in  the  church 
yard  at  that  place  ;  where  a  coarse  stone  still  marks  the 
spot  of  his  interment,  with  this  inscription :  "  J.  D. 
Esq.  deceased,  March  18,  in  the  82d  year  of  his  age — 
1688-9." 

After  the  death  of  Whalley,  Goffe  travelled  to  the 
south,  and  no  certain  information  relative  to  his  fate 
has  ever  been  obtained. 

From  Hadley  to  BELCHERTOWN,  a  pleasant  village, 
is  10  miles,  and  from  thence  to 

WARE  FACTORY  VILLAGE,  is  9  miles  farther.  This 
place,  located  on  the  Ware  river,  has  attained  to  an  as 
tonishing  growth  within  a  short  time.  There  are  few 
places  in  the  country  exhibiting  so  barren  and  rugged  a 
soil  as  the  site  and  lands  adjacent  to  this  flourishing 
little  city  in  miniature.  As  you  approach  from  the  west 


354  BROOKFIELD — LEICESTER* 

or  east,  it  bursts  upon  the  view  with  its  long  range  of 
manufactories,  its  neat  white  houses,  and  glittering 
spires,  producing  the  same  sensation  in  the  bosom,  as 
the  prospect  of  a  beautiful  garden  in  the  midst  of  a  de 
sert.  It  contains  several  public  buildings,  which  would 
be  an  ornament  to  our  most  flourishing  inland  towns  of 
more  ancient  date. 

BROOKFIELD,  8  miles  from  Ware,  is  a  handsome  town, 
though  very  little  improved  by  any  recent  additions  of 
buildings.  This  place  was  burnt  by  the  Indians  in 
1675.  On  the  first  alarm,  the  inhabitants,  in  all  about 
70,  repaired  to  a  house  slightly  fortified  externally  with 
logs,  and  internally  lined  with  feather  beds,  to  check 
the  force  of  musketry.  This  spot  was  soon  surround 
ed  by  the  enemy,  and  a  constant  fire  poured  upon  it  in 
all  directions.  But  the  well  directed  shots  of  the  be 
sieged  kept  the  Indians  at  a  considerable  distance. 
Various  devices  were  used  by  the  latter  for  burning  the 
building ;  but  their  plans  were  thwarted  by  the  whites, 
aided  by  a  plentiful  shower  of  rain.  The  attack  con 
tinued  for  three  days  ;  when  the  appearance  of  a  bo 
dy  of  troops  from  Lancaster  induced  the  Indians  to 
seek  their  own  safety  in  a  precipitate  retreat.  All 
the  buildings  in  the  village  except  the  one  fortified, 
were  destroyed.  Only  one  of  the  inhabitants,  howev 
er,  was  killed  ;  while  the  loss  of  the  Indians  was  80. 

LEICESTER,  12  miles.  The  village  contains  an  aca 
demy,  3  churches  and  about  80  dwellings.  The  prin 
cipal  employment  of  the  inhabitants  is  the  manufac 
ture  of  [woollen  cards  j  of  which  a  very  large  amount 
is  annually  made. 


WORCESTER — BLACKSTONE   CANAL.  355 

WORCESTER,  (6  miles,)  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most 
respectable  towns  in  the  state.  It  contains  from  three 
to  four  hundred  houses,  generally  well  built.  Here  are 
also  a  bank,  four  printing  offices,  a  court-house  and  a 
jaiK  A.  newspaper  which  was  commenced  by  Isaiah 
Thomas  some  time  previous  to  the  revolutionary  war, 
is  still  published  here,  and  is  the  oldest  paper  in  the 
Union.  Mr.  Thomas,  who  has  written  an  elaborate 
history  of  the  art  of  printing,  resides  in  the  village,  and 
has  been  created  an  honorary  member  of  many  litera 
ry  institutions  in  the  United  States.  He  has  erected 
in  the  village,  at  very  considerable  expense,  a  hand 
some  building,  for  the  reception  of  the  library  and  cab 
inet  of  the  American  Antiquarian  Society,  of  which  he 
is  president.  The  library  consists  of  about  6000  vol 
umes,  many  of  them  of  great  antiquity,  and  the  cabinet 
is  also  very  valuable. 

The  BLACKSTONE  CANAL  commences  at  this  place, 
and  extends  to  Providence,  R.  I.  Length  45  miles — 
expense  rising  of  $500,000. 

From  Worcester  to  Boston  the  distance  is  40  miles, 
over  a  beautiful  road,  which  passes  through  a  rich 
country,  variegated  with  villages,  which  increase  in  size 
and  importance  as  the  tourist  advances  towards  the 
metropolis  of  the  state. 


356  BOSTON. 

BOSTON* 

Is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  bottom  of  Massachu 
setts  Bay,  on  a  peninsula  of  an  uneven  surface,  two 
miles  long,  and  in  the  widest  part  about  one  mile 
broad.  The  town  owes  its  origin  to  a  spirit  of  civil  and 
religious  liberty,  which  was  excited  to  action  by  the 
persecutions  that  prevailed  in  England,  during  the 
reigns  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  and  Kings  James  and  Charles 
the  First.  Most  of  those  who  can  properly  be  consid 
ered  SLS  first  settlers  arrived  prior  to  the  year  1643.  The 
place  was  first  called  Trimouniain,  in  consequence  of 
three  hills  which  were  on  the  peninsula.  It  was  after 
wards  called  Boston,  in  honor  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Cotton, 
a  minister  of  the  first  church  in  the  town,  and  whose 
native  place  was  Boston  in  England. 

The  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  United  States. 
It  has  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  the  largest  vessels 
at  all  times  of  tide,  and  is  accessible  at  all  seasons  of 
the  year.  It  is  safe  from  every  wind,  and  so  capa 
cious  that  it  will  allow  500  vessels  to  ride  at  anchor, 
while  the  entrance  is  so  narrow  as  scarcely  to  admit 
two  ships  abreast.  It  contains  about  75  square  miles, 
within  which  are  upwards  of  100  islands  or  rocks  ;  and 
receives  within  its  bosom  the  waters  of  the  Mystic, 
Charles,  Neponset  and  Manatticut  rivers,  besides  sever 
al  streams  of  less  magnitude. 


*  Bo  wen's  Picture  of  Boston,  published  by  A.  Bowen, 
No.  2,  Congress  street,  will  prove  a  valuable  guide  to 
strangers  visiting  that  city  and  its  environs. 


BOSTON.  357 

Boston  is  very  extensively  engaged  in  commerce,  and 
there  are  probably  few  cities  in  the  world  where  there 
is  so  much  wealth  in  proportion  to  the  population.  The 
trade,  too,  received  from  an  extensive  inland  country  is 
very  great,  the  facilities  for  approaching  the  city  being 
rendered  easy  by  means  of  excellent  roads. 

The  appearance  of  Boston  is  much  admired  by  stran 
gers,  particularly  when  approaching  from  the  sea.  Its 
streets  do  not  exhibit  so  great  a  regularity  as  some  oth 
er  cities  ;  but  its  beautiful  location  and  elegant  public 
and  private  buildings,  together  with  its  richly  orna 
mented  grounds  for  promenading,  render  it  altogether 
a  peculiarly  delightful  and  attractive  place. 

The  city  is  divided  into  four  local  districts,  called, 
North  Boston,  West  Boston,  South  End  and  South 
Boston.  From  Copp's  Hill,  in  North  Boston,  which  is 
partly  occupied  for  a  church  yard,  the  British  cannona 
ded  the  town  of  Charlestown  in  1775,  during  the  battle 
of  Bunker  Hill,  when  the  village  was  mostly  destroyed 
by  conflagration. 

In  the  south  western  part  of  the  city,  and  in  front  of 
the  state  house,  is  the  celebrated  COMMON,  presenting 
an  area  of  more  than  75  acres,  containing  the  Mall,  a 
very  beautiful  public  walk,  adorned  with  rows  of  trees. 
This  is  a  delightful  promenade  during  the  summer 
months,  and  is  a  place  of  general  resort.  In  the  cen 
tre  of  the  Common  is  an  eminence  still  exhibiting 
marks  of  the  fortification  erected  by  the  British  here 
during  the  revolution  ;  north  of  which  is  the  Crescent 
Pond,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  with  trees. 
Near  the  Mall,  in  Mason  street,  is  the  Medical  college, 
an  edifice  belonging  to  the  Harvard  University,  sur 
mounted  by  a  dome  with  a  sky-light  and  balustrade, 


358  BOSTON. 

The  Boston  Jlthenewn  is  located  near  the  head  of 
Pearl  street,  and  is  a  very  spacious  building  containing 
appropriate  rooms.  The  number  of  volumes  attached 
to  the  institution  is  about  25,000.  It  also  contains 
nearly  14,000  medals  and  coins,  some  of  which  are  very 
rare  and  interesting.  The  rooms  are  open  from  8  A.  M. 
to  9  P.  M.  and  can  be  visited  by  strangers  introduced 
by  subscribers. 

The  Gallery  of  Fine  Arts  is  a  handsome  structure  in  the 
rear  of  the  Atheneum,  and'is  appropriated  for  scientific 
lectures,  the  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  the  Mas 
sachusetts  Medical  Library,  a  philosophical  apparatus 
of  the  Mechanic  Institution,  and  for  paintings  ;  the  lat 
ter  of  which  are  exhibited  in  the  upper  story,  and  are 
generally  very  elegant. 

Among  the  other  literary  institutions  in  the  city  are 
the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society,  who  have  an  ex 
tensive  library  in  a  spacious  apartment  over  the  arch 
in  Franklin  street :  the  Boston  Library  Society,  who  have 
a  collection  of  6000  volumes  ;  and  the  Columbian  Li- 
brary,  which  contains  about  4,500  volumes.  There  are 
also  numerous  other  libraries  of  less  note.  Among  the 
benevolent  institutions,  are  the  House  of  Industry  at 
South  Boston,  of  rough  dimension  stone,  220  feet  long, 
and  43  wide;  the  Massachusetts  General  Hospital, 
founded  in  1818,  which  has  been  richly  endowed  by  the 
state  and  individuals  ;  and  a  Hospital  for  the  Insane, 
the  buildings  of  which  are  at  Charlestown. 

The  first  houses  built  in  the  city  were  plain  and  the 
streets  narrow  and  crooked ;  but  a  few  years  have 
wrought  a  striking  and  almost  incredible  change  ;  new 
streets  have  been  laid  out,  old  ones  straightened  and 


BOSTON.  359 

improved,  and  neat  brick  and  granite  dwellings  have 
been  substituted  for  the  ill-shapen  and  decaying  houses 
of  wood.  The  private  buildings,  and  many  of  the 
stores  recently  erected,  are  more  splendid  than  in  any 
other  city  in  the  United  States.  In  1817,  there  was 
erected  on  each  side  of  Market  street,  a  block  of  brick 
stores  more  than  400  feet  in  length,  and  4  stories  high  ; 
and  on  Central  Wharf  another  immense  pile  of  build 
ings  was  completed  the  same  year,  1240  feet  long,  con 
taining  54  stores  4  stories  high,  having  a  spacious  hall 
in  the  centre,  over  which  is  erected  an  elegant  obser 
vatory.  Other  costly  works  have  been  constructed 
which  do  honor  to  the  town ;  but  the  project  which 
exceeded  them  all  in  boldness  of  design,  in  promise  of 
public  benefit,  and  in  energy  of  execution,  is  that 
which  within  three  or  four  years  has  been  accomplish 
ed  in  the  vicinity  of  Fanueil  Hall  Market.  The  exten 
sive  rows  of  granite  stores,  four  stories  high,  construct 
ed  after  the  best  model,  bound  this  newly  perfected  en 
terprise.  Between  these  two  ranges  of  stores,  stands 
the  new  Market  House,  at  the  distance  of  102  feet 
from  those  on  the  south  side,  and  sixty-five  feet  from 
the  north.  The  centre  part  of  the  building  is  74 
by  55  feet,  having  a  hall  in  the  second  story.  The 
wings  are  each  231  feet  long  by  50  wide,  and  two  sto 
ries  high.  They  have  each  a  portico  of  four  columns, 
23  feet  high  ;  the  shafts  of  granite,  in  a  single  piece. 
The  construction  of  the  whole  is  of  hammered  granite 
of  a  uniform  color. 

Among  the  public  buildings  are  the  State  House, 
which  is  built  on  elevated  ground,  commanding  a  fine 
view  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  containing  an  el- 


360  BOSTON. 

egant  statue  of  Washington,  which  cost  $15,000  j  the 
new  county  Court-House,  built  of  stone  at  an  expense 
of  $92,000  ;  the  municipal  Court-House  ;  a  new  stone 
Jail ;  Fanueii  Hall,  where  all  public  meetings  of  the 
citizens  are  held  ;  two  Theatres,  one  of  which  (the  Tre- 
mont)  was  erected  in  1827,  at  a  cost  of  about  $120,000, 
being  135  feet  in  length  and  about  SO  in  breadth,  the 
front  of  Hallo  well  and  Quincy  granite,  in  imitation  of  the 
Ionic  order,  with  four  pilastres  supporting  an  entabla 
ture  and  pediment,  and  elevated  on  a  basement  of  17 
feet ;  the  Custom-House,  Merchant's  Hall,  Boylston 
Market  and  Boylston  Hall ;  U.  S.  Branch  Bank  ;  Con 
cert,  Julian,  Corinthian,  Pantheon,  Washington  and 
Chauncy  Halls. 

Bridges. — There  are  six  bridges  connecting  Boston 
with  the  adjacent  towns.  Charles  River  bridge,  which 
connects  it  with  Charleston  on  the  north,  1503  feet 
long ;  West  Boston  bridge,  connecting  it  with  Cam 
bridge  Port  on  the  west,  7810  feet  long;  Cragie's  or 
Canal  bridge,  between  these  two,  connects  it  with 
Lechmere  Point,  2796  feet  long  ;  and  two  bridges  unit 
ing  it  to  South  Boston.  The  other  avenue  is  a  mill 
dam,  nearly  two  miles  long  and  fifty  feet  wide,  across 
the  bay  on  the  southwest  side  of  the  city ;  which  not 
only  furnishes  a  bridge,  but  puts  in  operation  extensive 
tide-mills  and  other  water  works. 

Churches. — There  are  nearly  50  churches  in  Boston, 
many  of  which  have  been  built  at  great  expense,  and 
are  very  elegant.  On  one  of  the  quoins  at  the  south 
west  corner  of  the  Brattle  street,  church,  of  which  Gov. 
Hancock  was  a  benefactor,  his  name  had  been  inscrib 
ed  j  but  it  was  effaced  by  the  British  soldiery  during 


BOSTON*  361 

the  revolution,  and  the  stone  has  been  permitted  to  re 
main  as  they  left  it.  A  shot  from  the  Americans  on 
the  night  previous  to  the  evacuation  of  Boston  by  the 
British  still  remains  in  the  tower  where  it  originally 
struck.  In  St.  Paul's  church,  in  Common  street,  there 
is  an  elegant  monument  to  the  memory  of  Gen.  War 
ren,  who  was  slain  on  Bunker  Hill,  and  whose  remains 
are  entombed  in  the  cemetery  beneath  this  church. 

Burial  Grounds. — In  the  Chapel  burial  ground,  north 
of  the  stone  chapel,  there  are  several  ancient  monu 
ments  ;  and  among  others  that  of  Gov.  Winthrop,  who 
died  in  1649.  In  the  Copy's  Hill  ground  similar  memen 
toes  of  antiquity  are  found.  In  the  Granary  ground,  the 
cenotaph  erected  to  the  memory  of  Doct.  Franklin 
stands  over  the  tomb,  in  which  repose  the  remains  of 
both  his  parents.  The  tombs  of  Governors  Bellingham, 
Sumner  and  Sullivan  are  also  in  this  ground. 

The  New-England  Museum,  in  Court  street,  is  prob 
ably  the  best  in  the  U.  States,  and  should  be  visited  by 
every  stranger  before  leaving  the  city. 

Hotels. — Tremont  House  is  the  most  superb  hotel  in 
Boston,  and  not  inferior  to  any  in  the  Union.  It  is 
three  stories  high  in  front  and  four  on  the  wings,  ex 
clusive  of  the  basement.  The  front  and  two  circular 
ends  facing  Beacon  street,  and  the  open  ground  south 
of  the  building,  are  of  Quincy  granite,  and  surmounted 
by  an  entablature,  supported  by  antes  at  each  extrem 
ity.  The  portico,  which  is  of  the  same  material,  is  37 
feet  long  by  7  feet  in  width,  and  25  feet  high.  Four 
fluted  columns  support  the  roof  of  the  portico,  the  pro 
portions  of  which  are  copied  from  those  of  the  Doric 
portico  at  Athens,  with  the  exception  that  the  portico 


362  BOSTON. 

of  the  Tremont  House  is  di-triglyph,  the  inter  columni- 
ations  being  nearly  equal.  The  whole  number  of  rooms 
is  one  hundred  and  eighty  ;  and  the  principal  entrance 
is  nearly  opposite  the  Tremont  theatre.  From  the  look 
out  above  the  roof  of  this  structure,  an  extensive  and 
beautiful  landscape,  comprising  a  view  of  the  harbor 
and  the  amphitheatre  of  hills  to  the  west,  and  of  the 
towns  of  Charlestown  and  Chelsea  to  the  north,  pre 
sents  itself. 

The  other  principal  public  houses  are  the  Exchange 
Coffee  House,  an  excellent  establishment,  Marlboro* 
Hotel,  Earl's  Coffee  House,  Commercial  Coffee  House, 
City  Tavern,  Merchant's  Hotel,  Indian  Queen  Tavern 
and  La  Fayette  Hotel. 

The  Hancock  House,  the  former  residence  of  Gov. 
Hancock,  is  still  in  good  preservation  in  Beacon  street, 
near  the  state  house.  There  are  also  several  ancient 
buildings  in  the  vicinity  of  Ann  street  and  Market 
square  ;  in  one  of  which,  opposite  the  Golden  Key,  a 
relative  of  Doct.  Franklin  formerly  resided,  to  whom 
he  was  in  the  habit  of  paying  frequent  visits. 

The  population  of  Boston  in  1742  was  16,528  ;  it  is 
now  not  much  short  of  80,000. 

The  number  of  stage  coaches  which  regularly  leave 
Boston,  is  much  larger  than  that  of  any  other  place  in 
the  Union.  There  are  between  eighty  and  ninety  dis 
tinct  lines  of  stages  ;  which,  according  to  their  estab 
lished  arrangements,  not  including  'extras,  make  about 
125  departures  and  as  many  arrivals  daily,  or  more 
than  1500  departures  and  arrivals  each  week.  For  the 
benefit  of  public  houses  and  travellers,  a  Stage  Regis 
ter  is  published,  once  in  two  months,  by  Messrs.  Badg- 


Q,UINCY.  363 

er  and  Porter,  81  Court  street,  containing  an  account 
of  the  principal  lines  of  stages,  steam  boats  and  canal 
packets  in  New  England  and  New  York. 

The  country  around  Boston  is  the  admiration  of  ev 
ery  traveller  of  taste.  The  view  from  the  dome  of  the 
state  house  surpasses  any  thing  of  the  kind  in  this 
country,  and  is  not  excelled  by  that  from  the  castle  hill 
of  Edinburgh,  or  that  of  the  Bay  of  Naples  from  the 
castle  of  St.  Elmo.  Here  may  be  seen  at  one  view, 
the  shipping,  the  harbor,  variegated  with  islands  and 
alive  with  business ;  Charles  river  and  its  beautiful 
country,  ornamented  with  elegant  private  mansions ; 
and  more  than  twenty  flourishing  towns.  The  hills 
are  finely  cultivated,  and  rounded  by  the  hand  of  na 
ture  with  singular  felicity. 

QUINCY  is  10  miles  from  Boston,  in  a  southerly  direc 
tion.  About  half  a  mile  northwest  of  the  village  is  the 
mansion  of  the  late  John  Adams,  the  second  president 
of  the  U.  States.  His  remains  and  those  of  his  wife 
repose  beneath  the  new  church  at  Quincy,  within 
which  a  handsome  monument  to  their  memory  has  been 
erected  by  the  late  President,  John  Quincy  Adams, 
with  a  suitable  inscription. 

The  southwest  part  of  the  town  is  mostly  composed 
of  inexhaustible  beds  of  granite,  for  the  transportation 
of  which  a  RAIL- WAY  has  been  constructed  from  the 
beds  to  tide  water,  3  miles  long.  For  a  great  part  of 
the  distance  it  is  on  an  inclination  of  one  and  a  half 
inch  to  the  rod,  and  the  ordinary  load  drawn  by  a 
horse  is  between  8  and  9  tons.  It  will  be  found  an  ob 
ject  worthy  the  attention  of  strangers. 


364  DORCHESTER CHAltLESTOWN. 

DORCHESTER,  is  an  ancient  town,  about  4  1-2  miles 
south  of  Boston,  having  been  settled  in  1630.  The 
roads  are  numerous  and  crooked,  but  mostly  level  and 
kept  in  good  repair.  Many  fine  country  seats  and  sub 
stantial  farm  houses  are  thickly  arranged  on  their  sides. 
They  have  a  town  house,  three  congregational  churches, 
and  one  for  methodists.  The  population  is  about  4000. 
The  peninsula,  called  Dorchester  Neck,  borders  on  Bos 
ton  harbor,  and  a  part  of  it  is  incorporated  with  the 
town  of  Boston.  Sarin  Hill,  in  this  town,  is  a  place  of 
considerable  resort,  and  the  peninsula  of  Squantum  is 
famous  for  its  yearly  feast  of  shells. 

BRIGHTON,  5  miles  west  of  Boston,  was  formerly  a 
part  of  Cambridge,  and  lies  between  that  place  and 
Brookline.  Here  is  held  the  famous  Cattle  Fair,  which 
was  commenced  during  the  revolutionary  war,  and  has 
been  increasing  in  importance  ever  since.  Most  of  the 
cattle  for  the  supply  of  the  Boston  market  are  brought 
in  droves  to  this  place  ;  often  from  2  to  8000  a  week ; 
every  Monday  is  the  fair  day,  when  the  dealers  resort 
thither  to  make  their  purchases. 

WATERTOWN  is  on  Charles  river,  7  miles  northwest 
from  Boston,  and  is  the  seat  of  several  extensive  man 
ufacturing  establishments.  The  United  States  have  an 
Arsenal  established  in  this  town.  Fresh  Ponds,  one  of 
the  most  enchanting  retreats  in  the  vicinity  of  the  me 
tropolis,  lies  partly  in  this  town  and  partly  in  Cam 
bridge. 

CAMBRIDGE,  2  miles  west  of  Boston.     (Sec  p.  328.) 
CHARLESTOWN,  is  a  place  of  singular  shape,  extend 
ing  in  a  northwesterly  direction  from  Boston  harbor^ 


URSULINE  CONVENT.  365 

about  9  miles  in  length,  and  not  averaging  a  breadth  of 
one  mile,  and  in  some  parts  it  is  not  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
wide.  The  compact  part  of  the  town  is  situated  on  a 
peninsula  next  to  Boston  and  is  laid  out  in  regular 
streets.  Charlestown  contains  a  population  of  near 
7000.  It  has  five  houses  of  public  worship,  a  spacious 
alms  house,  and  a  handsome  market  house.  Besides 
Charles  River  and  Prison  Point  bridges  which  connect 
this  town  with  Boston,  there  is  Chelsea  bridge  on  the 
Salem  turnpike,  and  Maiden  bridge,  both  over  the  Mys- 
tick  river.  Breed's  Hill  and  Bunker's  Hill  both  lie 
within  this  peninsula ;  the  former  is  62  feet  in  height, 
the  latter  110  feet.  The  U.  S.  Navy  Yard,  in  this  town, 
consists  of  about  60  acres  of  land,  on  which  are  built  a 
large  brick  ware  house,  several  arsenals,  magazines  for 
various  kinds  of  stores,  and  a  large  brick  mansion 
house  for  the  superintending  officer.  The  State  Prison 
is  at  the  west  end  of  the  town,  and  is  built  of  granite, 
200  feet  by  44,  of  5  stories.  Extensive  additions  to  the 
buildings  were  made  in  1827.  The  Massachusetts  In 
sane  Hospital  is  delightfully  situated  upon  Pleasant 
Hill,  on  the  west  side  of  the  town. 

The  URSULINE  CONVENT,  is  on  Mount  Benedict, 
about  2  1-2  miles  from  Boston,  commanding  one  of  the 
most  rich  and  variegated  prospects  in  the  United  States. 
The  plan  of  education  pursued  here  is  very  extensive, 
embracing  all  those  attainments  which  are  considered 
necessary,  useful  or  ornamental  in  society.  Adjoining 
the  establishment,  is  a  garden  beautifully  laid  out,  to 
which  the  young  ladies  always  have  access.  Besides 
this,  they  are  allowed,  on  days  of  recreation,  to  extend 
their  walks  over  the  whole  farm,  attended  however  by 
one  or  more  of  their  instructors. 


366  BREED'S  HILL. 

BREED'S  HILL  is  situated  one  fourth  of  a  mile  north* 
east  of  Charlestown,  and  affords  a  pleasant  prospect  of 
Boston,  (3  miles  distant,)  the  harbor,  Cambridge  and 
its  colleges,  and  of  an  extensive  tract  of  highly  culti 
vated  country. 

In  the  month  of  May,  after  the  battle  of  Lexington,  it 
was  conjectured  from  the  movements  of  the  British 
army  that  Gen.  Gage  intended  to  penetrate  into  the 
country.  It  was  accordingly  decided  by  the  provincial 
congress  to  attempt  a  defence  of  Dorchester  Neck,  and 
to  occupy  Bunker's  Hill,  just  within  the  peninsula  on 
which  Charlestown  stands.  A  detachment  of  1000 
men,  under  Col.  Prescot,  proceeded  to  execute  these 
orders,  but  by  some  mistake,  Breed's  Hill,  situated  on 
the  farther  part  of  the  peninsula,  was  selected  for  the 
proposed  entrenchments. 

The  party  under  Col.  Prescot  proceeded  in  their 
work  with  so  much  diligence  and  secrecy,  that  by  the 
dawn  of  day,  they  had  thrown  up  a  square  redoubt  of 
about  40  yards  on  each  side.  Day-light  discovered 
this  new  work  to  the  British,  and  a  heavy  cannonade 
was  commenced  upon  it  from  the  shipping  in  the  river. 
The  fire  was  borne  with  firmness  by  the  Americans, 
and  did  not  prevent  them  from  soon  constructing  a 
breast  work,  which  extended  from  the  redoubt  to  the 
bottom  of  the  hill. 

"  As  this  eminence  overlooked  Boston,  Gen.  Gage 
thought  it  necessary  to  drive  the  provincials  from  it. 
To  effect  this  object,  he  detached  Major  General  Howe, 
and  Brigadier  General  Pigot,  at  the  head  often  compa 
nies  of  grenadiers,  and  the  same  number  of  light  in 
fantry,  with  a  proper  proportion  of  field  artillery. 


HILL.  3-67 

These  troops  landed  at  Moreton's  Point,  where  they 
immediately  formed ;  but  perceiving  the  Americans  to 
wait  for  them  with  firmness,  they  remained  on  their 
ground  until  the  success  of  the  enterprize  should  be 
rendered  secure  by  the  arrival  of  a  reinforcement 
from  Boston,  for  which  General  Howe  had  applied. 
During  this  interval  the  Americans  also  were  rein 
forced  by  a  body  of  their  countrymen  led  by  Generals 
Warren  and  Pomeroy  j  and  they  availed  themselves  of 
this  delay,  to  increase  their  security  by  pulling  up  some 
adjoining  post  and  rail  fences,  and  arranging  them  in 
two  parallel  lines  at  a  small  distance  from  each  other ; 
the  space  between  which  they  filled  up  with  hay,  so  as 
to  form  a  complete  cover  from  the  musketry  of  the  en 
emy. 

"  On  being  joined  by  their  second  detachment,  the 
British  troops,  who  were  formed  in  two  lines,  advanced 
slowly  under  cover  of  a  very  heavy  discharge  of  cannon 
and  howitzers,  frequently  halting  in  order  to  allow 
their  artillery  time  to  demolish  the  works.  While  they 
were  advancing,  orders  were  given  to  set  fire  to 
Charlestown,  a  handsome  village  containing  about  500 
houses  which  flanked  their  line  of  march.  The  build 
ings  were  chiefly  of  wood,  and  the  flames  were  quick 
ly  communicated  so  extensively,  that  almost  the  whole 
town  was  in  one  great  blaze. 

"  It  is  not  easy  to  conceive  a  more  grand  and  a  more 
awful  spectacle  than  was  now  exhibited ;  nor  a  mo 
ment  of  more  anxious  expectation  than  that  which  was 
now  presented.  The  scene  of  action  was  in  full  view 
of  the  heights  of  Boston  and  of  its  neighborhood,  which 
were  covered  with  spectators  taking  deep  and  opposite 


368  BREED'S  HILL. 

interests  in  the  events  passing  before  them.  The  sol 
diers  of  the  two  hostile  armies  not  on  duty,  the  citizens 
of  Boston,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  adjacent  country, 
all  feeling  emotions  which  set  description  at  defiance, 
were  witnesses  of  the  majestic  and  tremendous  scene. 

"  The  provincials  permitted  the  enemy  to  approach 
unmolested  within  less  than  one  hundred  yards  of  their 
works,  when  they  poured  in  upon  them  so  deadly  a  fire 
of  small  arms  that  the  British  line  was  totally  broken, 
and  fell  back  with  precipitation  towards  the  landing 
place.  By  the  very  great  exertions  of  their  officers 
they  were  rallied,  and  brought  up  to  the  charge,  but 
were  again  driven  back  in  confusion  by  the  heavy  and 
incessant  fire  from  the  works.  General  Howe  is  said 
to  have  been  left  at  one  time  almost  alone,  and  it  is 
certain  that  very  few  officers  about  his  person  escaped 
unhurt. 

"  The  impression  to  be  made  by  victory  or  defeat, 
in  this  early  stage  of  the  war,  was  deemed  of  the  ut 
most  consequence ;  and  therefore  very  extraordinary 
exertions  were  made  once  more  to  rally  the  English. 
With  great  difficulty,  they  were  a  third  time  led  up  to 
the  works.  The  redoubt  was  now  attacked  on  three 
sides  at  once,  while  some  pieces  of  artillery,  which  had 
been  brought  to  bear  on  the  breast  work,  raked  it  from 
end  to  end.  The  cross  fire  too,  from  the  ships  and 
floating  batteries,  not  only  annoyed  the  works  on 
Breed's  hill,  but  deterred  any  considerable  reinforce 
ments  from  passing  into  the  peninsula,  and  coming  to 
their  assistance.  The  ammunition  of  the  Americans 
was  now  so  nearly  exhausted,  that  they  were  no  longer 
able  to  keep  up  the  same  incessant  stream  of  fire, 


BUNKEUHILL  HILL  MONUMENT.  369 

which  had  twice  repulsed  the  enemy ;  and  on  this  third 
attempt,  the  redoubt,  the  walls  of  which  the  English 
mounted  with  ease,  was  carried  at  the  point  of  the 
bayonet.  Yet  the  Americans,  many  of  whom  were 
without  bayonets,  are  said  to  have  maintained  the 
contest  with  clubbed  muskets,  until  the  redoubt  was 
half  filled  with  the  king's  troops. 

"The  redoubt  being  lost,  the  breast  work  which  had 
been  defended  with  equal  courage  and  obstinacy,  was 
necessarily  abandoned ;  and  the  very  hazardous  opera 
tion  undertaken,  of  retreating,  in  the  face  of  a  victori 
ous  enemy,  over  Charlestown  neck  ;  where  they  were 
exposed  to  the  same  cross  fire  from  the  Glasgow  man 
of  war  and  two  floating  batteries,  which  had  deterred 
the  reinforcements  ordered  to  their  aid  from  coming  to 
their  assistance,  and  had  probably  prevented  their  re 
ceiving  proper  supplies  of  ammunition." 

The  number  of  British  troops  engaged  in  this  action 
was  about  3000,  and  their  loss  in  killed  and  wounded 
was  1050.  The  American  force  has  been  variously 
stated,  from  1500  to  4000  ;  and  their  loss,  in  killed, 
wounded  and  missing,  amounted  to  450.  General 
Warren  was  among  the  number  of  the  slain,  and  a 
handsome  monument  now  marks  the  spot  where  he 
fell.  The  spot  of  ground  on  which  this  monument 
stands,  was  recently  purchased  by  Dr.  J.  C.  Warren,  of 
Boston,  a  nephew  of  the  lamented  General,  for  the 
purpose,  it  is  said,  of  preserving  uninjured  the  few  re 
maining  traces  of  the  memorable  battle  of  '75. 

The  corner  stone  of  the  BUNKER  HILL  MONUMENT 
now  erecting  on  Breed's  Hill,  was  laid  on  the  15th  of 
June,  1825  :  on  which  occasion  the  Marquis  La  Fay- 


370  K A  KANT. 

ette  was  present.  The  depth,  however,  proving  insuf 
ficient,  the  foundation  was  subsequently  re-laid  ;  and 
though  the  work  has  progressed  slowly,  owing  to  a 
want  of  funds,  it  is  believed  the  whole  will  be  com 
pleted  within  one  or  two  years.  The  Quincy  granite 
is  used  for  its  structure.  Its  base  is  50  feet  in  diame 
ter,  and  its  height  is  to  be  220  feet. 

FORT  INDEPENDENCE,  is  situated  on  an  island  at  the 
outlet  of  Boston  harbor,  3  miles  distant ;  opposite  to 
which  is  Governor's  Island,  containing  a  fort  erected 
during  the  late  war.  These  two  forts  command  the 
entrance  into  the  harbor  of  Boston.  Seven  or  eight 
miles  below  the  light  house,  at  the  north-east  extrem 
ity  of  the  channel,  where  vessels  enter  the  Atlantic. 

NAHANT, 

Is  a  peninsula  running  three  or  four  miles  into  the 
sea,  and  is  situated  fifteen  miles  north-easterly  from 
Boston.  It  is  approached  from  the  town  of  Lynn  over 
a  beautiful  beach  of  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length.  At 
the  extremity  of  this  beach,  commences  the  peninsula, 
which  is  about  two  miles  in  length,  and  in  some  parts 
half  a  mile  broad,  although  its  shores  are  extremely  ir 
regular,  and  indented  with  small  bays  worn  into  the 
rocks  by  the  unceasing  action  of  the  waves. 

The  surface  is  uneven,  rising  in  some  places  to  the 
elevation  of  sixty  or  seventy  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  The  shore  is  very  bold,  and  presents  on  all 
sides,  a  grand  embankment  of  broken  massy  rocks. 
At  several  points  these  rocks  are  worn  into  fantastic 
shapes,  and  at  the  time  of  high  tide,  or  a  swell  of  the 
sea,  the  roar  and  foam  of  the  waters  among  them,  prer 


NAHANT.  871 

senta  a  most  interesting  spectacle,  which  is  contempla 
ted  by  the  quiet  observer,  seated  on  the  summit  a- 
bove,  with  awe  and  admiration.  The  whole  expanse 
of  the  ocean  spreads  out  towards  the  east,  and  after  a 
storm,  the  rolling  waves  come  pouring  in  their  im 
mense  burden  upon  these  rocks,  with  such  a  power, 
sublimity  and  uproar  of  contending  elements,  as  can 
hardly  be  conceived  by  any  one  who  has  not  witnessed 
the  scene.  And  again  when  the  sea  is  tranquil,  it  may 
be  seen  covered  with  shipping  of  all  sizes,  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  extend,  moving  in  different  directions  up  and 
down  the  coast,  and  exhibiting  an  animating  picture  of 
the  industry  and  activity  of  commerce.  In  short,  for 
picturesque  beauty  and  sublimity  of  scenery,  as  well  as 
for  the  many  advantages  arising  from  its  peculiar  local 
situation,  this  place  is  not  surpassed  by  any  on  the 
coast. 

Besides  a  view  of  the  ocean,  Nahant  presents  a 
great  variety  of  other  interesting  prospects.  On  one 
side  is  seen  the  village  of  Lynn,  Swanscut,  Phillips' 
Beach,  Marblehead,  Egg  Rock,  Baker's  Island,  and 
the  north  shore  as  far  as  the  highland  of  Cape  Ann  ; 
on  the  other,  Charlestown,  Boston,  the  islands  in  Bos 
ton  harbor,  part  of  Dorchester,  Braintree,  Nantucket 
and  Scituate,  with  the  light-houses  of  Boston,  Scituate 
and  Baker's  Island,  forming  together  a  panorama  hard 
ly  to  be  equalled  in  beauty  or  variety. 

The  peninsula  extends  farther  into  the  sea  than  any 
other  head  land  in  the  bay.  It  is  distant  from  the 
nearest  island  in  Boston  harbor,  to  the  south,  seven 
miles — from  the  nearest  point  of  the  south  shore,  about 
twelve  miles — from  the  north  shore  between  two  and 

GG2 


three  miles.  It  is  on  this  side  connected  with  the 
main  land  by  a  beach  a  few  rods  wide.  Thus  insulat 
ed  and  surrounded  by  water,  Nahant  enjoys  a  climate 
and  temperature  very  cool,  and,  comparatively,  very 
equable — a  circumstance  of  much  importance  to  the 
invalid,  and  which  will  determine  the  choice  of  a  great 
portion  of  those  who  annually  leave  the  city  for  the 
purpose  of  health  or  amusement. 

Accommodations  for  visitors  have  lately  been  multi 
plied  and  greatly  improved.  A  spacious  and  elegant 
stone  edifice  has  been  erected  as  a  Hotel,  near  the  ex 
tremity  of  the  peninsula,  in  a  very  commanding  and 
pleasant  situation.  This  building  contains  70  cham 
bers,  constructed  on  a  plan  of  peculiar  convenience, 
both  for  families  and  single  persons.  The  dining  hall 
is  sufficiently  spacious  to  accommodate  150  persons  at 
table,  jesides  which  there  are  drawing  rooms  and  pri 
vate  parlors.  Large  and  commodious  stables  are  ap 
pended  to  the  Hotel ;  and  a  bathing  house  for  warm 
and  cold  baths,  and  floating  baths  for  those  who  may 
prefer  the  bracing  action  of  sea  water,  make  a  part  of 
the  establishment.  The  Hotel  is  surrounded  by  piaz 
zas,  which  afford  a  most  delightful  prospect  in  every 
direction,  and  receive  the  cool  and  refreshing  breezes 
every  part  of  the  day.  In  a  small  village,  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  Hotel,  are  several  private  boarding  hous 
es,  where  every  accommodation  can  be  had  for  invalids 
and  for  those  who  seek  retirement.  Numerous  cot 
tages,  too,  have  been  erected  by  several  individuals 
for  the  purpose  of  affording  more  extensive  and  ele 
gant  accommodations  to  those  who  may  pass  the  sum 
mer  in  this  delightful  place  of  residence. 


FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON.  373 

Nahant  has  many  amusements.  Angling  with  the 
rod  may  be  enjoyed  as  a  pleasant  recreation,  standing 
on  the  rocks  ;  and  those  who  would  try  their  skill  in 
decoying  larger  prey,  may  go  out  in  boats,  which  are 
always  in  readiness,  and  furnished  with  suitable  appara 
tus.  Game,  too,  is  abundant  in  the  vicinity.  But  there 
are  few  amusements  or  pleasures  superior  to  that  of 
riding,  at  suitable  hours  of  the  day,  on  the  beach. 

A  beautiful  building,  in  imitation  of  a  Grecian  temple, 
has  been  erected  on  an  eminence,  near  the  Hotel,  in 
which  are  two  elegant  billiard  rooms.  There  are  also 
convenient  covered  bowling  alleys,  and  such  other 
means  of  amusement  as  are  usually  connected  with  the 
most  extensive  and  elegant  establishments  at  watering 
places. 

On  the  whole,  the  proximity  of  Nahant  to  Boston- 
its  facility  of  access — the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  its 
scenery — and  above  all,  the  singular  local  advantages 
it  affords  for  invigorating  the  constitution,  the  salubrity 
and  bracing  tone  of  its  atmosphere,  and  the  excellent 
accommodations  it  offers  to  visitors — will  undoubtedly 
make  it  a  place  of  general  resort  during  the  summer 
months,  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States. 

FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON, 

Erected  during  the  revolution. 

The  fortifications  which  were  thrown  up  around  Bos 
ton,  which  held  a  British  army  besieged  during  eleven 
months  of  the  revolution,  and  which  finally  compelled 
them  to  carry  their  arms  and  warfare  into  other  lands, 
will  always  be  regarded  as  objects  of  interest  by  every 
stranger  visiting  that  section  of  country.  Many  of 


374  FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON. 

these  works  are  still  in  fine  preservation,  while  others 
have  become  defaced  by  the  hand  of  time,  or  have  been 
removed  to  give  place  to  modern  improvements.  The 
following  description  of  those  remaining  is  extracted 
from  Silliman's  Journal,  and  will  prove  a  guide  to  stran 
gers  in  determining  their  localities : 

JUt  Breed's  Hill,  that  blood-stained  field,  the  redoubt 
thrown  up  by  the  Americans  is  nearly  effaced  ;  scarce 
ly  the  slightest  trace  of  it  remains ;  but  the  entrench 
ment,  which  extended  from  the  redoubt  to  the  marsh,  ia 
still  marked  by  a  slight  elevation  of  the  ground.  The 
redoubt  thrown  up  by  the  British  on  the  summit  of  the 
hill,  may  be  easily  distinguished. 

Bunker  Hitt.  The  remains  of  the  British  fort  are 
visible,  the  works  must  have  been  very  strong,  and  oc 
cupied  a  large  extent  of  ground — they  are  on  the  sum 
mit  and  slope  of  the  hill  looking  towards  the  peninsula. 

Ploughed  Hill.  The  works  upon  this  hill  were  com 
menced  by  the  Americans  on  the  night  of  August  26th, 
1775,  and  received  more  fire  from  the  British  than  any 
of  the  other  forts  ;  in  a  few  days  more  than  three  hun 
dred  shells  were  fired  at  these  fortifications.  A  small 
part  of  the  rampart  remains,  but  the  whole  hill  is  sur 
rounded  by  the  mounds  and  fosse  of  the  ancient  fort, 
which  has  been  nearly  obliterated. 

Cobble  or  Barrett's  HUl  was  fortified,  and  occupied  as 
a  strong  post,  in  the  war  of  the  revolution,  by  General 
Putnam,  and,  in  consequence  of  its  strength,  was  call 
ed  Putnam's  impregnable  fortress.  It  was  commenced 
on  the  night  of  November  22d  ;  and  the  activity  of  its 
fire  is  well  known  to  those  who  have  studied  the  de^ 
tails  of  the  siege  of  Boston.  This  fort  has  been  de 
stroyed  ;  but  the  position  is  easily  identified. 


FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON.  375 

Leckmere  Point  Redoubt,  one  hundred  yards  from 
West  Boston  bridge,  displays  more  science  in  its  con 
struction,  and  has  a  wider  and  deeper  fosse  than  most 
of  the  other  fortifications.  It  was  commenced  on  Dec. 
llth,  1775,  and  it  was  several  days  before  it  was  com 
pleted,  during  which  time  it  was  much  exposed  to  the 
fire  of  the  Engligh  in  Boston.  Two  or  three  soldiers  of 
the  revolutionary  army  were  killed  at  this  redoubt,  and 
the  Prunus  virginiana,  with  its  red  berries,  marks  the 
spot  where  they  were  probably  interred.  Upon  one 
angle  of  the  fort  where  the  cannon  were  pointed  with 
most  destructive  effect,  a  church  is  now  erected. 

A  causeway  made  across  the  marsh,  the  covered 
way  which  crosses  the  brow  of  the  hill,  and  the  lines 
which  flanked  Willis'  Creek,  are  still  perfect,  and  may 
be  traced  with  great  facility. 

Winter  Hill  Fort  appears  to  have  been  the  most  ex 
tensive,  and  the  entrenchments  more  numerous,  than 
any  of  the  other  positions  of  the  American  army.  The 
fort  on  the  hill  is  almost  entirely  destroyed;  only  a 
small  part  of  the  rampart  still  remains  perfect. 

A  redoubt  situated  upon  Ten  Hill  Farm,  which  com 
manded  the  navigation  of  the  Mystic  river,  is  complete, 
as  are  also  some  slight  entrenchments  near. 

A  redoubt,  situated  between  Winter  and  Prospect 
Hill,  has  been  completely  carried  away,  and  a  quarry 
has  been  opened  on  the  spot.  In  the  general  orders, 
issued  at  Cambridge,  guards  were  directed  to  be  sta 
tioned  at  White  House  Redoubt,  and  this  it  is  believed 
was  the  post  intended.  General  Lee  is  said  to  have 
had  his  head  quarters  in  a  farm  house  immediately  in 
the  rear  of  this  redoubt. 


376  FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON. 

Prospect  Hill  has  two  eminences,  both  of  which  were 
strongly  fortified,  and  connected  by  a  rampart  and 
fosse ;  about  two  hundred  yards  are  quite  entire ;  they 
are  ornamented  with  the  aster,  solidago,  rosa,  &c. ;  and 
those  who  feel  any  curiosity  about  these  lines,  will  be 
much  gratified  by  the  view  here  afforded.  The  forts 
on  these  hills  were  destroyed  only  a  few  years  ago,  but 
their  size  can  be  distinctly  seen.  On  the  southern  em 
inence  a  part  of  the  fort  is  still  entire,  and  the  south 
west  face  of  the  hill  is  divided  into  several  platforms. 
There  are  also  evident  marks  of  the  dwellings  of  the 
soldiers.  The  extensive  view  from  this  hill,  the  walk 
on  the  ancient  ramparts,  and  the  sight  of  the  various 
stations  occupied  by  the  American  army  will  render 
this  spot,  at  a  future  period,  a  favorite  resort. 

The  Cambridge  Lines,  situated  upon  Butler's,  Hill  ap 
pear  to  have  consisted  of  six  regular  forts,  connected 
by  a  strong  entrenchment.  The  most  northerly  of 
these  forts  is  perfect.  With  the  exception  of  one  of  its 
angles  destroyed  by  the  road,  it  appears  as  if  just  quit 
ted  by  the  army  of  America ;  its  bastions  are  entire,  the 
outline  is  perfect,  and  it  seems  a  chef  d'ceuvre  of  the 
military  art. 

A  square  fort  may  be  seen  near  the  southern  extrem 
ity  of  these  lines,  in  fine  preservation  ;  it  is  in  a  field 
within  two  hundred  yards  of  the  road  to  Cambridge. 
The  eastern  rampart  is  lower  than  the  others,  and  the 
gateway  with  its  bank  of  earth  still  remains. 

The  second  Line  of  Defence  may  be  traced  on  the  col 
lege  green  at  Cambridge,  but  its  proximity  to  the  pub 
lic  halls  may  have  produced  some  inconvenience,  and 
it  has  been  carefully  destroyed. 


FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON.  377 

Jl  semicircular  battery,  with  three  embrasures,  on  the 
northern  shore  of  Charles  river,  near  its  entrance  into 
the  bay,  is  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation.  It  is  rath 
er  above  the  level  of  the  marsh,  and  those  who  would 
wish  to  see  it,  should  pass  on  the  road  to  Cambridge 
until  they  arrive  at  a  cross  road  which  leads  to  the 
bank  of  the  river;  by  following  the  course  of  the 
stream,  they  may  arrive  at  this  battery  without  cross 
ing  the  marsh,  which  is  its  northern  boundary  and  dif 
ficult  to  pass. 

Brookline  Fort,  or,  as  it  is  called  in  the  annals  of  the 
revolution,  the  fort  on  Sewall's  Point,  was  very  exten 
sive,  and  would  be  still  perfect,  were  it  not  for  the  road 
which  divides  it  into  two  nearly  equal  parts.  With  this 
exception,  the  ramparts  and  an  irregular  bastion,  which 
commanded  the  entrance  of  Charles  river,  are  entire. 
•  The  fort  was  nearly  quadrangular,  and  the  fortifications 
stronger  than  many  of  the  other  positions  of  the  Ame 
rican  army. 

*3  Battery,  on  the  southern  shore  of  Muddy  river, 
with  three  embrasures,  is  only  slightly  injured. 

Forts  at  Roxbury.  The  lower  fort  at  Roxbury  ap 
pears  to  have  been  the  earliest  erected,  and  by  its  ele 
vation  commanded  the  avenue  to  Boston  over  the  pe 
ninsula,  and  prevented  the  advance  of  the  English 
troops  in  that  direction.  It  is  of  the  most  irregular 
form,  the  interior  occupies  about  two  acres  of  ground, 
and  as  the  hill  is  bare  of  soil,  the  places  may  still  be 
seen  whence  the  earth  was  taken  to  form  the  ramparts. 
This  fortification  has  not  been  at  all  injured,  and  the 
embrasures  may  still  be  noticed  where  the  cannon 
were  placed  which  fired  upon  the  advanced  lines  of  the 
enemy. 


378  FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON. 

On  a  higher  eminence  of  the  same  hill  is  situated  a 
quadrangular  fort,  built  on  the  summit  of  the  rock,  and 
being  perhaps  their  first  attempt  at  regular  fortifica 
tion,  it  was  considered  by  the  militia  of  unparalleled 
strength,  and  excited  great  confidence  in  that  wing  of 
the  army  stationed  at  Roxbury. 

The  Roxbury  lines,  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in 
advance  of  the  forts,  and  two  hundred  yards  north  of 
the  town,  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
peninsula,  and  may  be  distinguished  by  any  person  go 
ing  by  the  nearest  road  to  Dorchester,  over  Lamb's  dam. 

At  this  period  it  may  be  proper  to  mention  the  British 
fortifications.  The  lines  situated  upon  the  Neck  may 
be  seen  to  great  advantage  on  the  western  side  of  the 
isthmus,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  south  of  the  green 
stores.  There  appear  to  have  been  two  lines  of  en 
trenchments  carried  quite  across  the  peninsula,  and 
the  fosse,  which  was  filled  at  high  water,  converted 
Boston  into  an  island.  The  mounds,  ramparts  and 
wide  ditches  which  remain,  attest  the  strength  of  the 
original  works.  The  small  battery  on  the  common, 
erected  by  the  British,  may  perhaps  remain  for  a  long 
period  of  years,  as  a  memorial  of  ancient  times. 

The  Dorchester  Lines.  Of  these,  some  very  slight 
traces  may  be  distinguished.  •* 

Forts  on  Dorchester  Heights.  We  now  hasten  to  the 
last  forts,  the  erection  of  which  terminated  the  contest 
in  this  portion  of  the  eastern  states  of  America.  It  is 
to  be  regretted  that  the  entrenchments  thrown  up  by 
the  army  of  the  revolution,  on  the  heights  of  Dorches 
ter,  are  almost  entirely  obliterated  by  the  erection  of 
two  new  forts  in  the  late  war.  But  some  traces  of  the 


FROM  BOSTON  TO  PORTLAND.  379 

ancient  works  may  be  seen  on  both  hills  ;  the  old  forts 
were  constructed  with  more  skill,  and  display  more 
science  than  the  recent  works,  the  ramparts  of  which 
are  even  now  falling  down  ;  and  we  would  gladly  see 
them  destroyed  if  from  their  ruins  the  ancient  works 
could  re-appear. 

A  noble  octagonal  fort  and  two  batteries,  which 
may  be  seen  in  perfect  preservation  upon  the  prom 
ontory,  were  erected  after  the  departure  of  the  Eng 
lish  from  Boston.  The  fort  is  situated  at  the  point ;  one 
battery  is  in  the  rear  of  the  House  of  Industry,  whose 
inmates  will  probably  soon  destroy  it,  and  the  other 
upon  a  rising  ground  immediately  below  the  heights  of 
Dorchester. 

At  Nook  Hill,  near  South  Boston  bridge,  may  be  seen 
the  last  breast-work  which  was  thrown  up  by  the  for 
ces  of  America  during  this  arduous  contest.  Its  ap 
pearance  on  the  morning  of  March  17,  1776,  induced 
the  departure  of  the  British  troops  from  Boston  in  a  few 
hours,  and  thus  placed  the  seal  to  the  independence  of 
the  New-England  states.  But  those  who  would  wish  to 
see  this  entrenchment  must  visit  it  soon.  The  enemy 
have  attacked  it  on  three  sides,  and  are  proceeding  by 
sap  and  by  mine ;  part  of  the  fosse  is  already  destroyed, 
and  the  rampart  nods  to  its  fall. 

FROM  BOSTON  TO  PORTLAND,  (MAINE.) 
A  stage  leaves  Boston  daily  at  8  A.  M.  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted,)  reaching  Newburyport  at  1  P.  M.  and  Ports 
mouth,  N.  H.  at  5.     Leaves  Portsmouth  the  next  morn 
ing  at  8,  and  reaches  Portland  at  5  P.  M.    Distance, 


330  LYNN — SALEM. 

120  miles — fare  $6.     The  intervening  distances  are  as 
follows : 

Miles.  Miles. 


Lynn,* 9 

Salem,* 5 

Newburyport, .......  24 

Portsmouth, 24 


York, 9 

Kennebunk, 24 

Saco, 10 

Portland, 15 


LYNN  is  a  large  township,  with  a  population  of  be 
tween  4  and  5000.  It  contains  6  churches,  and  many 
large  manufacturing  establishments  for  ladies'  shoes, 
which  are  sent  to  the  southern  states  and  the  West  In 
dies.  The  Lynn  beach  connects  the  peninsula  of  Na- 
hant  with  the  main  land. 

This  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  New-England,  and 
several  records  of  its  early  history  have  been  recently 
collected  and  published  in  Boston.  The  author  has  giv 
en  a  mass  of  interesting  facts  and  occurrences  of  "olden 
time,"  furnishing  altogether  a  curious  compendium, 
not  only  to  antiquarians  and  the  immediate  descend 
ants  of  the  first  settlers  of  that  place,  but  to  readers  of 
every  class  and  section  of  the  country.  All  the  quaint- 
ness  and  original  simplicity  of  the  original  language 
has  been  preserved,  and  such  remarks  of  the  compiler 
introduced  as  are  necessary  to  explain  the  meaning  or 
increase  the  interest. 

SALEM  4s  considered  the  second  town  in  New-Eng 
land  in  commerce,  wealth  and  population.  It  is  located 
on  a  peninsula  formed  by  two  inlets  of  the  sea,  called 
North  and  South  rivers.  On  the  opposite  side  of  North 


*  These  places  are  not  on  the  direct  route  from  Bos 
ton  to  Newburyport ;  but  it  is,  nevertheless,  recommend 
ed  to  travellers  to  pass  through  them. 


NEWBURYPORT — PORTSMOUTH.  381 

river  is  the  town  of  Beverly,  to  which  a  bridge  leads, 
1500  feet  in  length.  Marblehead  is  on  the  opposite 
side  of  South  river,  which  forms  the  harbor,  defended 
by  two  forts.  Salem  contains  a  court  house,  3  banks, 
an  atheneum,  a  museum,  an  orphan  asylum  and  17 
churches.  The  Square,  near  the  centre  of  the  town,  is 
a  beautiful  tract  of  ground ;  and  is  surrounded  by  nu 
merous  elegant  private  dwellings. 

Salem  was  settled  as  early  as  1626.  Its  Indian  name 
was  Naumkeag.  In  1692,  and  for  some  time  after 
wards,  several  of  its  inhabitants  became  a  prey  to  the 
greatest  credulity  and  bigotry.  Its  prison  was,  crowd 
ed  with  persons  accused  of  witchcraft,  many  of  whom 
paid  their  life  as  a  forfeit  for  their  supposed  crimes. 
The  present  population  of  the  town  is  from  12  to  15,000. 

NEWBURYPORT  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  Merrimack  river,  three  miles  from  its  mouth, 
rising  on  a  gradual  acclivity  from  the  water.  The  streets 
are  wide,  and  intersect  each  other  at  right  angles ;  and 
many  of  the  houses  are  elegant.  The  court-house, 
standing  at  the  head  of  one  of  the  principal  streets  lead 
ing  from  the  river,  adds  much  to  the  beauty  of  the 
place.  The  village  contains  2  banks,  7  churches  and 
7,000  inhabitants,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade  ; 
though  it  suffered  much  during  the  restrictive  system, 
previous  to  the  last  war. 

PORTSMOUTH  is  the  largest  town  and  only  seaport 
in  New-Hampshire.  It  is  located  on  the  sou  Ji  side  of 
the  Piscataqua  river,  2  miles  from  its  mouth.  The 
town  contains  5  banks,  an  atheneum,  an  asylum  for 
females,  an  alms-house,  custom-house  and  7  churches. 
A  bridge,  2371  feet  long,  crosses  the  river  at  this  place 


382  PORTLAND. 

to  Kittery,  Me.  on  the  opposite  side.  On  an  island  be 
tween  the  two  places  is  a  navy  yard.  The  town  is 
handsome  in  its  appearance,  is  a  place  of  considerable 
trade,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  8000. 

In  1695,  this  place  was  assaulted  by  a  party  of  In 
dians,  and  14  of  its  inhabitants  killed,  one  scalped,  who 
recovered,  and  four  taken  prisoners.  After  burning 
several  houses,  the  Indians  retreated  through  what  is 
called  the  great  swamp.  They  were,  however,  overta 
ken  the  next  morning  by  a  company  of  militia,  dispers 
ed,  and  the  prisoners  retaken. 

After  leaving  Portsmouth,  the  villages  of  York,  Wel 
les,  Kennebunk  and  Saco,  are  successively  passed,  be 
fore  reaching  Portland ;  affording  very  little  to  interest, 
if  we  except  an  old  fort  about  3  miles  and  a  half  north 
east  of  Welles,  and  the  falls  at  Saco,  on  the  river  of 
that  name,  which  rises  in  the  White  Mountains  of  New- 
Hampshire.  These  falls  are  about  30  feet,  and  afford 
facilities  for  extensive  manufacturing  operations. 

PORTLAND,  the  capital  of  Maine,  and  a  port  of  entry, 
is  a  beautiful  town,  located  on  a  peninsula  projecting 
into  Casco  bay.  This  peninsula  has  two  prominences ; 
on  one  of  which  stands  several  elegant  dwelling  houses, 
and  on  the  other  an  observatory.  The  harbor  is  safe, 
well  defended,  and  has  a  light-house  at  its  entrance. 
Among  the  public  buildings  in  the  town  are  an  elegant 
court-house,  a  jail,  custom-house,  2  banks,  an  academy, 
atheneum  and  10  churches.  Population,  upwards  of 
9,000.  From  the  observatory,  an  extensive  prospect  is 
had  of  the  ocean  and  of  the  country  at  the  north-west, 
terminated  by  the  White  Mountains.  On  Bang's  and 
House  Islands,  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  are  Forts 


PROM  PORTLAND  TO  QUEBEC*        383 

Preble  and  Scammel.  At  the  east,  32  miles  distant,  is 
seen  the  light-house  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec  riv 
er,  with  a  great  variety  of  islands  intervening.  West 
of  the  observatory  is  Fort  Sumner,  on  a  hill,  with  seve 
ral  intrenchments  made  during  the  revolutionary  war. 

Portland  (then  called  Falmouth)  was  nearly  laid  in 
ruins  in  Oct-  1775.  The  inhabitants  were  required  by 
Capt.  Mowatt,  of  the  British  sloop  of  war  Canceau,  to 
surrender  their  arms  ;  and  on  a  refusal,  he  commenced 
a  bombardment  of  the  town,  which  lasted  9  hours,  re 
sulting  in  a  destruction  of  130  houses,  three  fourths  of 
the  whole  number. 

Stages  leave  Portland  three  times  a  week  for  the 
White  Mountains  in  New-Hampshire,  (seep.  341,)  pass 
ing  through  Westbrook,  Gorham,  Standish,  Baldwin, 
Hiram,  Brownsfield  and  Fryeburgh  to  Conway,  which 
they  reach  at  evening.  Distance  62  miles — fare  $3. 
From  Conway,  a  stage  leaves  on  Monday  and  Thurs 
day  mornings,  passing  through  Bartlett,  Hart's  Loca 
tion,  over  the  Avalanches  at  the  Notch  of  the  White 
Mountains,  through  Nash  and  Swain's  Location,  Brit- 
ton  woods  and  Bethlehem  to  Littleton  on  the  Connec 
ticut  river.  Distance  48  miles — fare  $3.  [Littleton  is 
17  miles  below  Lancaster,  100  miles  north  of  Con 
cord,  N.  H.  and  is  located  at  the  mouth  and  falls  of  the 
Ammonoosuc  river.  See  p.  334.] 

FROM  PORTLAND  TO  QUEBEC— 258  miles. 

A  new  road  is  now  forming  from  Portland  to  Quebec, 
principally  over  the  route  pursued  by  Gen.  Arnold  and 
his  troops  in  1775,  previous  to  the  assault  of  that  place 
by  Gen.  Montgomery.  The  completion  of  this  road 
will  frequently  induce  strangers  to  take  the  state  of 

HH2 


3S4  NORTH  YARMOUTH—  BRUJSWICUT* 

Maine,  as  well  as  Montreal,  in  their  route  to  or  from 
Quebec. 

The  intermediate  distances  on  this  route  are  as  fol 
lows  : 


Miles. 

From  Portland  to  North 
Yarmouth, ........   12 

Freeport, 6 

Brunswick, 9 

Bowdointown, 13 

Hallowell, 15 

Augusta, 3 

Sidney, 12 

Waterville, 5 


Miles, 

Bloomfield, 7 

Norridgework, 5 

Anson, ." 11 

Dead  River, 20 

Forks  of  Kennebeck  15 

River,.... 15 

Moose  River, 24 

Chaudiere  River, ....   37 
Quebec, 60 


Fairneld, 4 

NORTH  YARMOUTH,  12  miles  north  of  Portland,,  is  la- 
cated  on  Casco  bay,  about  35  miles  from  the  ocean, 
and  is  a  village  of  some  magnitude,  containing  4 
churches,  an  academy  and  about  4000  inhabitants. 
The  bay  affords  fine  anchorage  for  vessels,  and  the  sur 
rounding  country  is  picturesque  and  interesting. 

FREEPORT,  6  miles  farther,  is  at  the  head  of  Casco 
bay,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  2500  inhabi 
tants. 

BRUNSWICK,  9  miles.  The  village,  which  is  peculiar 
ly  pleasant,  is  situated  on  the  southwest  bank  of  the 
Androscoggin  river,  at  the  falls,  which  furnish  val 
uable  seats  for  mills  and  manufactories.  Bowdoin  col 
lege,  at  this  place,  is  located  on  an  elevated  and  beauti 
ful  plain,  enjoying  a  rich  and  diversified  view  of  the 
river  and  surrounding  country.  The  college  originally 
received  a  donation  of  $10,000  from  the  late  James  D. 
Bowdoin,  Esq.  and  five  townships  of  land  from  the 
state.  It  also  receives  $3,000  annually  from  the  latter. 


HALLOWULt — WATERVILLE.       £85 

From  130  to  150  students  are  yearly  educated  at  thi» 
institution. 

BOWDOINTOWN,  13  miles. 

HALLO  WELL,  15  miles,  is  a  very  flourishing  village,  on 
the  Kennebeck  river,  at  the  head  of  tide  water.  It  con 
tains  an  academy,  a  bank,  three  churches,  between  2 
and  300  dwelling  houses,  some  of  which  are  very  ele 
gant,  and  about  3000  inhabitants.  Granite  is  here  ob 
tained,  which  is  considered  equal  to  any  ever  discov 
ered  in  the  Union.  Vessels  of  150  tons  burthen  ascend 
the  river  as  far  this  place. 

AUGUSTA,  3  miles,  is  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
state,  and  is  located  on  both  sides  of  the  Kennebeck 
river,  over  which  is  a  substantial  bridge.  A  part  of  the 
village  is  on  a  very  elevated  plain  above  the  river,  and 
a  part  of  it  on  its  banks.  Many  of  the  dwellings  ex 
hibit  much  taste  and  elegance  in  their  structure,  and 
the  whole  appearance  of  the  place  is  peculiarly  inviting 
and  pleasant. 

The  new  State  House,  now  erecting  here,  will  be  an 
ornament  to  the  town  and  highly  creditable  to  the  mu 
nificence  of  the  state. 

SIDNEY,  12  miles  farther,  is  a  pleasant  village  on  the 
Kennebeck  river. 

WATERVILLE,  5  miles,  on  the  same  river,  is  a  place 
of  considerable  magnitude,  containing  a  bank.  At  Te- 
conick  Falls  in  this  town,  at  the  head  of  boat  naviga 
tion,  there  are  several  manufactories,  and  a  flourishing 
village  is  springing  up.  Waterville  college,  under  the 
direction  of  the  Baptist  denomination,  is  located  in  this 
town.  It  was  commenced  in  1818,  and  educates  be- 
ween  50  and  60  students  annually  for  the  ministry. 


386 


FROM  PORTLAND  TO  EASTPORT. 


BLOOMFIELD,  11  miles.  A  pleasant  village,  contain 
ing  a  respectable  academy. 

NORRIDGEWORK,  5  miles,  is  situated  on  both  banks 
of  the  Kennebeck  river.  It  is  the  capital  of  Somerset 
county,  and  contains  a  court  house  and  jail.  The  vil 
lage  is  centrally  located  for  the  trade  of  a  fertile  back 
country,  and  is  a  flourishing  place,  containing  a  pop 
ulation  of  about  2000  inhabitants. 

The  route  to  Quebec  continues  through  a  less  pop 
ulous  country  for  about  50  miles ;  when,  for  the  re 
maining  distance,  it  passes  through  extensive  forests, 
with  an  occasional  settlement  only.  These  forests, 
however,  are  giving  way  to  the  arts  of  husbandry,  and 
in  a  few  years  will  doubtless  be  succeeded  by  a  succes 
sion  of  settlements  and  cultivated  farms. 

FROM  PORTLAND  TO  EASTPORT— 287  miles. 
The  following  are  the  intermediate  distances  : 


Miles. 
North  Yarmouth, ....   12 

Freeport, 6 

Brunswick, 9 

Bath, 7 

Wiscasset,    15 

Newcastle, 11 

Waldoboro', 12 

Warren, 8 

Thomastown, 5 

Camden, 11 

Lincolnville, 7 

Belfast, 11 

Buckstown, 18 

Penobscot, 13 


Miles. 

Castine, 4 

Blue  Hill, 10 

Surry, 8 

Trenton, 12 

Sullivan, 9 

Steuben, 14 

Harrison, 8 

Columbia, 12 

Jonesboro', 9 

Machias, 9 

E.  Falls  of  Machias,..  6 

Denneysville, 23 

Eastport  Ferry, 14 

Eastport, 4 


The  route  is  near  the  coast,  and  embraces  an  extent 
of  highly  interesting  and  romantic  country.      North- 


BATH — THOMASTOWN.  387 

Yarmouth,  Freeport  and  Brunswick  have  already  been 
noticed. 

BATH,  34  miles  northeast  of  Portland,  is  a  port  of  en 
try,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Kennebeck  river,  15  miles 
from  its  mouth.  The  river  is  here  a  mile  wide,  and  the 
town  is  built  on  an  acclivity  for  a  mile  and  a  half  in  ex 
tent,  and  assumes  a  very  handsome  appearance  from 
the  water.  It  is  a  place  of  extensive  business,  and 
contains  two  banks,  an  academy,  three  churches,  and 
a  population  of  nearly  4000  inhabitants. 

Wise  ASSET,  15  miles,  is  a  port  of  entry,  located  on 
the  west  side  of  Sheepscot  river,  with  an  excellant 
harbor.  The  place  contains  a  court  house,  jail,  bank, 
insurance  office,  and  some  other  public  buildings,  and 
a  population  of  about  2500. 

NEWCASTLE,  11  miles,  is  located  on  the  west  side  of 
Sheepscot  river. 

WALDOBORO',  12  miles,  is  a  port  of  entry  and  a  place 
of  considerable  trade,  containing  a  population  of  about 
3000  inhabitants. 

WARREN,  8  miles,  is  located  on  St.  George's  river, 
which  is  navigable  to  this  place  for  sloops. 

THOMASTOWN,  Smiles,  is  a  place  of  extensive  busi 
ness,  situated  on  the  west  side  of  Penobscot  bay  and  on 
St.  George's  river,  12  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  state 
prison  of  Maine  is  at  this  place,  and  is  in  a  lot  of  10 
acres,  enclosed  by  a  solid  wall,  within  which  is  an  ex 
tensive  quarry  of  limestone.  There  are  also  in  the  vi 
cinity  of  the  town  inexhaustible  quarries  of  lime  and 
marble,  of  which  large  quantities  are  annually  exported. 
The  village  contains  a  bank  and  a  population  of  about 


388  CAMDEN — CASTIWE. 

3000  inhabitants.  About  a  mile  from  the  village  is  the 
ancient  residence  of  the  late  Gen.  Knox,  now  in  a  state 
of  decay. 

CAMDEN,  11  miles,  and  LINCOLNVILLE,  7  miles  far 
ther,  are  both  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Penob- 
scot  bay. 

BELFAST,  11  miles  from  Linconville,  is  on  the  same 
side  of  the  bay,  and  is  a  flourishing  village. 

BUCKSTOWN,  18  miles,  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  Penob- 
scot,  the  largest  river  in  the  state.  It  is  navigable  for 
large  vessels  to  Bangor,  50  miles  from  its  entrance  in 
to  the  bay. 

PENOBSCOT,  13  miles,  on  the  east  side  of  the  bay  of 
that  name. 

CAS  TINE,  4  miles,  is  situated  on  a  promontory,  near 
the  head  of  the  east  side  of  Penobscot  bay,  with  a  beau 
tiful  harbor  stretching  out  before  the  town.  Castine 
can  be  easily  defended  from  assault ;  as  the  narrow 
ness  of  the  isthmus  which  connects  it  with  the  main 
land  could  be  insulated  with  comparatively  a  small 
expense ;  added  to  which,  strong  batteries  would  en 
able  it  to  resist  any  force  which  would  probably  be 
brought  against  it  This  would  be  the  more  important 
in  time  of  war,  as  an  enemy  in  possession  of  the  place, 
would  have  command  of  the  intermediate  country  from 
Penobscot  to  St.  Croix.  The  place  was  taken  during 
the  last  war,  and  the  British  entrenchments  on  a  hill 
above  the  town  are  still  visible. 

Blue  Hill,  Surry,  Trenton,  Sullivan  (in  which  there  is 
a  bridge  across  Hog  bay  1400  feet  long)  Steuben,  Har 
rison,  Columbia  and  Jonesborough  are  successively 
passed  in  travelling  from  Castine  to 


MACHIAS—  ROBBINSTOWN.  389 

MACHIAS,  a  port  of  entry  and  capital  of  Washington 
county,  Me.  The  town  contains  two  villages  ;  one  sit 
uated  at  the  falls  of  the  east  branch  of  the  Machias 
river,  and  the  other  at  the  falls  of  the  west  branch  of  the 
same  stream.  Between  the  two  villages  a  bridge  is 
erected  across  Middle  river,  which,  with  the  causeway, 
is  1900  feet  long.  Machias  contains  a  court  house, 
jail,  2  churches,  a  very  flourishing  academy,  and  is 
a  thriving  place. 

EASTPORT,  is  a  port  of  entry  on  Moose  island  in  Pas- 
samaquoddy  bay.  The  island  is  4  miles  long,  with  a 
bold  shore,  the  tide  ordinarily  rising  here  25  feet.  The 
town  is  principally  built  on  the  southern  part  of  the  isl 
and  and  contains  a  bank,  3  churches  and  about  2000 
inhabitants.  There  are  also  fortifications  in  the  vicini 
ty,  which  were  constructed  during  the  last  war.  The 
view  from  the  heights  on  the  island  is  very  extensive 
and  romantic,  taking  in  the  bay  with  its  numerous  isl 
ands  and  the  adjacent  coast.  Between  Eastport  and 
the  town  of  Perry  on  the  main  land,  a  bridge  has  been 
constructed,  rising  of  1200  feet  long.  A  line  of  steam 
boats  is  established  between  this  place  and  Boston, 
touching  at  Portland,  so  that  travellers  can  take  either 
a  water  or  land  route  to  that  city. 

ROBBINSTOWN,  13  miles  north-west  of  Eastport,  lo 
cated  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix  river  at  its  entrance 
into  the  Passamaquoddy  bay,  is  on  the  boundary  line 
between  the  U.  States  and  the  British  Province  of 
New-Brunswick,  and  is  opposite  St.  Andrews. 


390      FROM  BOSTON  TO  PROVIDENCE,  R.  I. 

STAGES  FROM  BOSTON  TO  NEW-YORK, 

via  Hartford  and  JYeiw-Haven,  Conn. 

A  stage  leaves  Boston,  daily,  at  1  P.  M. ;  arrives  in 
Hartford  next  morning  at  6,  in  New-Haven  at  2  P.  M., 
and  in  New- York  at  6,  second  morning — distance  210 
miles,  fare  $11.  This  line  meets  a  steam  boat  every 
day  at  New-Haven,  except  Sunday — fare  through  by 
stage  and  steam  boat,  $10,50.  A  stage  also  leaves 
Boston  on  Sunday  and  Wednesday,  at  3  A.  M.  reaches 
New-London,  Conn,  at  evening,  where  a  steam  boat  is 
taken,  which  reaches  New- York  the  next  morning. 
Another  stage  leaves  Boston  and  New-Haven  daily, 
passing  through  Hartford,  and  reaching  the  two  first 
mentioned  places  at  evening  of  the  second  day — dis 
tance  136  miles,  fare  $7,50. 

Either  of  the  foregoing  routes  can  be  taken  by  trav 
ellers  wishing  to  proceed  directly  to  New- York;  but 
where  leisure  will  permit,  an  excursion  by  the  way  of 
Providence  is  recommended,  on  the  route  hereafter  de 
signated.  It  is  more  circuitous,  but  much  more  inter 
esting;  and  will  amply  compensate  the  tourist  for  the 
additional  time  employed  for  the  purpose. 

FROM  BOSTON  TO  PROVIDENCE,  R.  I. 

40  miles. 

A  stage  leaves  Boston  every  morning  at  3  o'clock, 
and  connects  with  the  steam  boat  line  at  Providence 
daily,  except  Sundays  ;  and  with  the  steam  boat  line 
at  New-London,  Conn,  on  Wednesday  and  Sunday. 
Stages  also  leave  Boston  daily  at  7  and  10  A.  M.,  and 
at  noon  for  Providence.  Fare  $1.  The  intermediate 
distances  follow : 


DEDHAM — PAWTUCKET.  391 


Miles. 

Roxbury, 2 

Dedham, 8 

Walpole, 10 


Miles. 

Wrentham, 7 

Pawtucket, 9 

Providence, , .  4 


In  proceeding  to  Roxbury,  the  stage  passes  over  what 
is  called  the  Neck,  a  narrow  strip  of  land,  contain 
ing  intrenchments  noticed  at  p.  377.  On  Dorchester 
Heights,  (seep.  364  and  p.  378,)  which  are  seen  at  the 
east,  many  of  the  works  erected  for  commanding  Bos 
ton  and  its  harbor,  are  in  tolerable  preservation. 

Passing  the  Blue  Hills,  7  miles  from  Boston,  which 
afford  a  pleasant  retreat  in  the  summer  months,  and  a 
charming  prospect  of  the  surrounding  country,  the  vil* 
lage  of 

DEDHAM  is  reached  in  going  three  miles  farther.  It 
is  a  large  and  beautiful  town,  containing  a  court  house, 
jail,  bank,  6  churches,  and  between  2  and  3000  inhabi 
tants.  Charles  and  Neponset  rivers  run  through  the 
place,  and  afford  numerous  seats  for  mills  and  manu 
facturing  establishments. 

WALPOLE  10,  and  WRENTHAM  17  miles  from  Dedham, 
are  small  villages. 

PAWTUCKET,  9  miles  from  Wrentham,  is  located  at 
the  falls  of  the  Pawtucket  river  ;  and  is  one  of  the  most 
extensive  manufacturing  places  in  the  union.  It  con 
tains  10  or  12  cotton  factories,  several  shops  for  making 
machinery,  and  a  number  of  factories  for  other  purpo 
ses.  Four  miles  farther,  over  a  most  delightful  road, 
is  the  handsome  and  flourishing  town  of 


392 


PROVIDENCE. 


PROVIDENCE. 

The  settlement  of  this  place  was  commenced  as  ear 
ly  as  1636,  by  Roger  Williams.  He  was  a  puritan  min 
ister,  and  had  been  settled  at  Salem;  but  holding 
tenets  contrary  to  the  faith  of  many  of  his  people,  he 
was  banished  the  jurisdiction  of  Massachusetts.  He 
came  to  what  was  called  by  the  Indians  Mooshausick ; 
but  which,  in  gratitude  for  the  providential  safety  he 
had  experienced,  he  called  PROVIDENCE.  It  is  located 
on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  just  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Seekhonk  or  Pawtucket,  35  miles  from  the  ocean, 
and  is  a  port  of  entry.  The  town  is  built  on  both  sides 
of  the  river,  across  which  is  an  elegant  bridge ;  and  is 
one  of  the  most  wealthy  and  enterprizing  places  in  the 
union.  Besides  a  great  variety  of  extensive  manufac 
turing  establishments,  it  contains  a  court  house,  town 
house,  market,  hospital,  7  banks,  a  college,  3  acade 
mies,  and  several  churches ;  and  its  population  is  not 
far  from  17,000. 

BROWN  UNIVERSITY,  at  this  place,  over  which  the 
Rev.  FRANCIS  WAYLAND,  jun.  presides,  was  incorporat 
ed  in  1769.  It  soon  rose  to  a  respectable  rank  among 
the  literary  institutions  of  the  country  j  but  afterwards 
declined.  Under  its  present  able  and  judicious  Presi 
dent,  however,  it  has  attained  a  handsome  elevation, 
and  promises  to  become  one  of  the  best  seats  of  learn 
ing  in  the  union.  The  library  has  lately  been  much  in 
creased  by  donations  from  England ;  and  the  philo 
sophical  apparatus,  which  is  extensive,  is  constantly 
improving.  The  college  edifices,  of  which  there  are 
two,  are  located  on  a  lofty  eminence,  with  streets 


BLACKSTONfi  CANAL.  395 

leading  thereto,  richly  decorated  with  fine  mansions 
and  elegant  gardens.  About  a  mile  still  farther  east  or 
north-east,  stands  a  large  building,  called  the  Quaker 
College.  It  was  built  by  the  Friends,  and  is  occupied 
as  a  boarding  school  of  that  persuasion,  and  is  in  excel 
lent  order.  Near  this,  of  corresponding  dimensions  and 
appearance,  stands  the  new  Alms  House.  A  legacy  of 
60,000  dollars,  has  enabled  the  town  to  erect  this  no 
ble  structure. 

The  town  abounds  with  the  most  delightful  private 
residences.  The  new  town,  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river,  has  more  the  appearance  of.  a  flourishing  com 
mercial  city  than  the  old.  It  also  contains  many  spa 
cious  dwellings  which  impart  to  it  an  air  of  prosperity. 
The  Hill,  or  East  Providence,  as  it  is  called,  is  occupi 
ed  by  gentlemen's  private  mansions,  or  country  seats, 
all  advantageously  located,  with  fine  court  yards  in 
front,  thickly  planted  with  shrubbery,  while  highly 
cultivated  and  beautiful  gardens  adorn  the  rear,  and 
add  immeasurably  to  their  comforts.  The  charming 
residences  of  Messrs.  Brown,  Ives,  and  Governor 
Fenner  are  entitled  to  particular  notice.  It  was  on 
the  present  domains  of  Governor  Fenner,  that  Roger 
Williams  first  planted  himself,  and  it  has  so  happened, 
that  from  that  day  to  this,  that  situation  has  belonged 
to  a  governor  of  Rhode  Island. 

The  BLACKSTONE  CANAL  terminates  at  this  place. 
It  commences  in  the  Blackstone  river  at  Worcester,  45 
miles  distant,  and  pursues  the  valley  of  the  river  to 
Woonsokett  falls  near  the  Massachusetts  line ;  from 
whence  there  is  an  excavation  to  Providence. 

STEAM  BOATS  leave  Providence  six  times  a  week  for 
New-York— fare  $6. 


394  FROM  PROVIDENCE  TO  NEWPORT. 

STAGES,  also,  leave  Providence  three  times  a  week 
for  Norwich  and  Middletown,  and  daily  (except  Sun 
days)  for  Hartford,  Conn,  arriving  at  those  places  at 
evening.  Fare  to  Norwich,  45  miles,  $3 — to  Middle- 
town  $4 — to  Hartford,  74  miles,  $4.  A  stage  also 
leaves  Providence  twice  a  week  for  New-London, 
Conn,  distant  59  miles,  connected  with  a  steam  boat 
line  for  New- York. 

FROM  PROVIDENCE  TO  NEWPORT. 

Stages  leave  Providence  daily,  except  Sundays,  at  9 
A.  M.  reaching  Bristol  at  11,  and  Newport  at  4  P.  M, 
Fare  from  Providence  to  Bristol,  15  miles,  $1 — from 
Providence  to  Newport,  30  miles,  $2,33. 

BRISTOL  is  a  pleasant  town,  with  a  population  of 
about  1500  inhabitants.  The  village  is  located  on  the 
east  shore  of  the  Narraganset  bay,  affording  an  excel 
lent  harbor  for  vessels  of  the  largest  dimensions. 
About  2  miles  from  the  ferry  in  this  town  an  exten 
sive  mine  of  anthracite  coal  was  opened  a  few  years 
since,  from  which  very  considerable  quantities  are  an 
nually  taken. 

NEWPORT  is  a  large  town,  with  an  extensive  harbor 
which  is  defended  by  Forts  Adams  and  Dumplings  at 
its  entrance,  and  by  Fort  Woolcott  on  Goat  Island,  op 
posite  the  town.  There  is  also  a  small  battery  about 
a  mile  above  the  town,  called  Fort  Green.  The  village 
is  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  rises  in  a  gentle  acclivity 
from  the  harbor,  giving  to  it  a  fine  appearance,  when 
approached  from  the  water.  It  contains  a  state-house, 
theatre,  five  banks,  1 1  churches,  several  manufactories^ 
and  a  population  of  about  8,000. 


NEWPORT*.  393 

Newport  was  possessed  by  the  British  for  a  consider 
able  time  during  the  revolutionary  war.  In  1778,  un 
der,  an  expectation  of  aid  from  the  French  fleet,  which 
had  sailed  into  the  harbor,  an  American  force,  of  about 
10,000  strong,  commanded  by  Gen.  Sullivan,  and  aided 
by  Gen,  La  Fayette,  made  preparations  for  attacking 
the  place.  On  the  approach  of  the  Americans,  the 
British  abandoned  their  outposts  and  retreated  to  their 
works  within  the  town.  These  posts  were  immediate 
ly  possessed  by  the  Americans  ;  and  the  most  flatter 
ing  prospects  existed,  that  the  allied  forces  would  be 
enabled  to  capture  the  entire  British  army.  But  the 
French  admiral,  who  had  been  a  military  officer,  and 
who,  by  a  previous  arrangement,  was  to  superintend  a 
part  of  the  land  as  well  as  naval  operations,  took  of 
fence  at  some  of  the  movements  of  Gen.  Sullivan,  and 
refused  a  co-operation.  While  an  attempt  at  reconcil 
iation  was  going  forward,  a  British  fleet  suddenly  ap 
peared  off  Newport,  which  induced  the  French  admiral, 
as  a  precautionary  measure,  to  sail  out  of  the  harbor. 
A  severe  storm  coming  on,  prevented  a  naval  engage 
ment  ;  and  both  fleets,  being  left  in  a  shattered  condi 
tion,  at  the  close  of  the  tempest,  retired — the  British  to 
New- York,  and  the  French  to  Newport.  During  this 
time,  Gen.  Sullivan  had  laid  siege  to  the  town ;  and 
though  interrupted  by  the  storm,  in  which  his  army 
suffered  considerably,  he  had  succeeded  in  annoying  the 
enemy,  and  keeping  him  within  the  lines  of  the  village. 
On  the  return  of  the  French  fleet,  another  effort  was 
made  to  induce  the  admiral  to  co-operate  with  the 
Americans.  But  his  ships  had  received  so  much  injury 
in  the  gale,  that  he  considered  it  necessary  to  repair  to 


396  NEWPORT. 

Boston,  pursuant  to  previous  instructions  from  his  gov 
ernment.  Under  these  circumstances,  Sullivan  de 
termined  on  raising  the  siege.  A  retreat  was  effected 
in  the  night.  But  on  its  being  discovered  the  next 
morning,  the  Americans  were  pursued  by  the  British 
to  Quaker  Hill,  where  a  sharp  contest  eusued,  which 
resulted  in  the  loss  of  between  2  and  300  of  each  army. 
Sullivan  afterwards  retreated  to  Massachusetts,  with 
little  or  no  interruption  ;  and  his  retreat  was  consider 
ed  fortunate,  as  a  B  ritish  re-inforcement,  which  arrived 
at  Newport  the  day  after,  would  have  been  enabled  ef 
fectually  to  cut  him  off  from  the  main  land. 

During  the  possession  of  Newport  by  the  British,  a 
bold  party  of  men  under  Col.  Barton,  landed  from  a 
boat  in  the  night,  proceeded  to  the  enemy's  head  quar 
ters,  captured  Gen  Prescott,  and  conveyed  him  away 
before  they  could  be  prevented  by  the  land  or  naval 
forces  then  in  the  harbor. 

From  its  elegant  and  healthy  situation,  its  proximity 
to  the  ocean,  and  the  salubrity  of  its  climate,  Newport, 
for  several  years,  has  been  a  place  of  considerable  re 
sort  in  the  summer  months.  Were  there  a  direct  com 
munication  from  this  place,  by  stage,  or  steam-boat,  to 
New-London,  Hartford  or  New-Haven,  Conn,  it  would 
add  much  to  the  convenience  of  tourists.  But,  unfor 
tunately,  for  this  purpose,  the  steam-boats  which  leave 
Providence  and  Newport  five  or  six  times  a  week  for 
New- York,  do  not  touch  at  any  of  the  Connecticut 
ports  ;  and,  in  order  to  reach  New-London  by  stage, 
it  is  necessary  to  return  to  Providence.  Those  who 
have  travelled  down  by  land,  generally  return  by  water. 


KING  PHILIP.  397 

Passing  Fort  Green,  a  prospect  is  soon  obtained  of 
.Mount  Hope,  a  few  miles  to  the  northwest.  It  was  the 
former  residence  of 

King  Philip,  of  the  Narraganset  tribe  of  Indians, 
and  was  also  the  place  of  his  death.  The  well 
known  energy  and  enterprise  of  his  character  made 
him  an  object  of  great  jealousy  and  apprehension, 
and  he  was  accused  of  always  cherishing  a  secret 
and  implacable  hostility  towards  the  English.  A  ren- 
egado  Indian  subject  had  heightened  this  jealousy,  by 
revealing  to  the  whites  the  pretended  hostile  projects 
of  Philip.  This  informer  was  shortly  afterwards  found 
murdered  in  a  pond,  having  fallen  a  victim  to  the  ven 
geance  of  his  tribe.  Three  Indians,  one  of  whom  was  a 
friend  and  counsellor  of  Philip,  were  seized  by  the  whites 
tried,  and  on  rather  slight  testimony  executed.  This  out 
raged  the  pride  and  exasperated  the  passions  of  Philip, 
and  a  long  and  bloody  war  was  the  consequence.  The 
whites,  possessing  more  military  skill,  were  generally 
victorious,  and  Philip  was  driven  from  his  paternal  do 
mains  and  compelled  to  take  refuge  in  the  depths  of  for 
ests  or  the  glooms  and  thickets  of  swamps.  At  one  time 
he  was  driven,  with  a  band  of  followers,  into  the  great 
swamp  of  Pocasset  Neck,  where  the  English  forces  did 
not  dare  to  pursue  him,  fearing  to  venture  into  these 
dark  and  frightful  recesses.  They  therefore  invested 
the  entrance  into  the  neck,  and  began  to  build  a  fort, 
with  the  intention  of  starving  out  the  foe  ;  but  Philip 
and  his  companions,  leaving  their  women  and  children 
behind,  wafted  themselves  on  a  raft  over  an  arm  of  the 
sea,  in  the  dead  of  night,  and  escaped  away  to  the 
westward,  kindling  the  flames  of  war  among  the  tribes 


338  KING  PHILIP. 

of  Massachusetts  and  the  Nipmuck  country,  and  threat 
ening  the  colony  of  Connecticut. 

One  of  the  most  faithful  friends  that  Philip  had  in  the 
time  of  his  adversity,  was  Canonchet,  chief  sachem  of 
all  the  Narragansets.  Though  he  had  forborne  to 
take  an  active  part  in  this  hopeless  war,  yet  he  receiv 
ed  Philip  and  his  shattered  forces  with  open  arms,  and 
gave  him  the  most  generous  countenance  and  support. 
This  at  once  drew  on  Canonchet  the  hostility  of  the  Eng 
lish  ;  and  it  was  determined  to  strike  a  single  blow  that 
should  involve  both  the  sachems  in  a  common  ruin.  A 
great  force  was  therefore  gathered  together  from  Mas 
sachusetts,  Plymouth  and  Connecticut,  and  sent  into 
the  Narraganset  country,  in  the  depth  of  winter,  when 
the  swamps,  being  frozen  and  leafless,  no  longer  af 
forded  impenetrable  fortresses  to  the  Indians.  Appre 
hensive  of  attack,  Canonchet  had  sheltered  the  greater 
part  of  his  stores,  together  with  the  old,  the  infirm,  the 
women  and  children  of  his  tribe,  in  a  strong  fortress, 
where  he  and  Philip  had  likewise  drawn  up  the  flower 
of  their  forces.  This  fortress,  deemed  by  the  Indians 
impregnable,  was  situated  upon  a  rising  mound,  or 
kind  of  island,  of  five  or  six  acres,  in  the  middle  of  a 
swamp,  constructed  with  a  judgment  and  skill  vastly 
superior  to  the  usual  fortifications  of  the  Indians  ;  and 
indicative  of  the  martial  genius  of  these  two  chieftains. 

Guided  by  a  renegado  Indian,  the  English  penetrated, 
through  December  snows,  to  this  strong  hold,  and 
came  upon  the  garrison  by  surprise.  The  fight  was 
fierce  and  tumultuous.  The  assailants  were  repulsed 
in  their  first  attack  ;  and  several  of  their  bravest  offi 
cers  were  shot  down  in  the  act  of  storming  the  fortress. 


KING  PHILIP.  399 

sword  in  hand.  The  assault  was  renewed  with  greater 
success ;  a  lodgement  Was  effected  ;  the  Indians  were 
driven  from  one  hold  to  another ;  they  disputed  their 
ground  inch  by  inch,  fighting  with  the  fury  of  despair ; 
most  of  their  veterans  were  cut  to  pieces,  and  after  a 
long  and  bloody  battle,  Philip  and  Canonchet,  with  a 
handful  of  surviving  warriors,  retreated  from  the  fort 
and  plunged  into  the  depths  of  the  surrounding  forest. 
The  victors  set  fire  to  the  wigwams  and  the  fort ; 
the  whole  was  soon  in  a  blaze ;  and  many  of  the  old 
men,  the  women  and  the  children  perished  in  the 
flames.  This  last  inhuman  outrage  overcame  the  sto 
icism  of  the  savage.  The  neighboring  woods  resounded 
with  the  yells  of  rage  and  despair,  uttered  by  the  fugi 
tive  warriors,  as  they  beheld  with  anguish  of  heart,  the 
desolation  of  their  dwellings,  and  heard  the  agonizing 
cries  of  their  wives  and  offspring.  "  The  burning  of  the 
wigwams,"  says  a  contemporary  writer,  "  the  shrieks 
and  cries  of  the  women  and  children,  and  the  yelling  of 
the  warriors,  exhibited  a  most  horrible  and  affecting 
scene,  so  that  it  greatly  moved  some  of  the  soldiers." 

The  defeat  of  the  Narraganset  fortress,  and  the 
death  of  Canonchet,  were  fatal  blows  to  the  fortunes  of 
King  Philip.  He  made  an  ineffectual  attempt  to  raise 
a  head  of  war,  by  stirring  up  the  Mohawks  to  take  up 
arms ;  but  though  possessed  of  the  native  talents  of  a 
statesman,  his  arts  were  counteracted  by  the  superior 
arts  of  his  enlightened  enemies,  and  the  terror  of  their 
warlike  skill  began  to  subdue  the  resolution  of  the 
neighboring  tribes. 

With  a  scanty  band  of  followers,  who  still  remained 
£rue  to  his  desperate  fortunes,  the  unhappy  Philip  wan* 


400          FROM  PROVIDENCE  TO  NEW-LONDON. 

dered  back  to  the  vicinity  of  Mount  Hope,  the  ancient 
dwelling  of  his  fathers.  Here  he  lurked  about  like  a 
spectre,  among  the  desolated  scenes  of  former  pow 
er  and  prosperity,  now  bereft  of  home  and  friends.  Ev 
en  in  this  last  refuge  of  desperation  and  despair,  a 
sullen  grandeur  seems  to  gather  round  his  memory. 
Defeated,  but  not  dismayed — crushed  to  the  earth,  but 
not  humiliated,  he  seemed  to  grow  more  haughty  be 
neath  disaster,  and  to  receive  a  fierce  satisfaction  in 
draining  the  last  dregs  of  bitterness.  The  very  idea  of 
submission  awakened  the  fury  of  Philip,  and  he  even 
smote  to  death  one  of  his  followers  who  proposed  an 
expedient  of  peace.  The  brother  of  the  victim  made 
his  escape,  and,  in  revenge,  betrayed  the  retreat  of  his 
chieftain.  A  body  of  white  men  and  Indians  were  im- 
•  mediately  despatched  to  the  swamp  where  Philip  lay 
crouched,  glaring  with  fury  and  despair.  Before  he 
was  aware  of  their  approach,  they  had  began  to  sur 
round  him.  In  a  little  while  he  saw  five  of  his  trustiest 
followers  laid  dead  at  his  feet  j  a  resistance  was  vain  ; 
he  rushed  forth  from  his  covert,  and  made  a  headlong 
attempt  at  escape,  but  was  shot  through  the  heart  by  a 
renegado  Indian  of  his  own  nation. 

After  leaving  Fort  Green,  the  steam-boat  succes-. 
sively  passes  Prudence,  Patience,  Hope  and  Despair 
islands,  and  Providence  is  reached  in  going  20  miles 
from  the  northern  extremity  of  the  latter. 

FROM  PROVIDENCE  TO  NEW-LONDON. 

56  miles. 

A  stage  leaves  Providence  twice  a  week  in  the  morn 
ing,  passing  through  Centreville,  West  Greenwich, 
Hopkinton,  Stonington  and  Mystic,  and  reaches  New, 
J/ondon  at  evening. 


STONINGTON.  401 

CENTREVILLE,  11  miles  from  Providence,  is  a  man 
ufacturing  village,  containing  two  cotton  factories,  sev 
eral  weaving  shops,  and  a  number  of  small  houses. 

WEST  GREENWICH,  2  miles. 

HOPKINTON,  15  miles. 

STONINGTON,  11  miles.  The  village  is  incorporated ; 
contains  a  U.  S.  arsenal,  several  factories,  a  bank,  an 
academy,  two  churches,  and  a  population  of  more  than 
3000.  It  has  a  good  harbor,  and  is  a  place  of  consid 
erable  trade. 

The  settlement  of  the  place  commenced  as  early  as 
1649.  It  had  previously  been  a  part  of  the  territory  of 
the  Pequots,  a  powerful  and  warlike  tribe  of  Indians. 
The  early  English  settlers,  in  different  parts  of  Connec 
ticut,  had  been  frequently  annoyed  by  this  tribe ;  and, 
in  1637,  it  became  necessary  to  take  efficient  steps  for 
their  expulsion.  An  expedition  was  entrusted  to  Capt. 
Mason  ;  who,  with  about  300  colonists  raised  in  Con 
necticut  and  Massachusetts,  and  200  Mohegan  and 
Narraganset  Indians,  encamped  on  the  night  of  the 
26th  of  May  at  a  place  called  Porter's  rocks,  a  short 
distance  from  the  present  village  of  Stcnington,  and 
about  three  miles  from  one  of  the  principal  forts  of  the 
Pequots,  which  was  situated  on  the  summit  of  a  hill. 
Two  hours  before  day,  the  little  army  was  in  motion  ; 
and  on  approaching  the  fort,  it  was  found  that  the  en 
emy,  about  700  strong,  were  in  a  profound  sleep,  with 
out  their  usual  watch,  having  spent  the  previous  night 
in  revelry  and  drunkenness.  On  a  close  approximation 
of  Mason's  men,  a  dog  within  the  fort  commenced 
barking,  which  awakened  one  of  the  Pequots ;  who 
perceiving  the  approach  of  the  assailants,  aroused  his 


102  NEW-LONDON. 

comrades  from  their  slumbers.  Mason  immediately 
advanced,  and  through  the  apertures  of  the  pallisades 
poured  in  a  fire,  and  then  rushed  in  through  a  part  of 
the  fort  slightly  barricaded.  Notwithstanding  their 
confusion,  the  Pequots  defended  themselves  with  bra 
very;  but  having  but  few  other  weapons  than  bows 
and  arrows,  they  were  unable  to  withstand  the  assail 
ants,  who  cut  them  down  without  mercy  with  their 
swords  and  bayonets.  To  render  the  victory  complete, 
Mason  ordered  their  wigwams  to  be  fired.  The  blaze 
soon  spread  in  all  directions,  compelling  the  besieged 
to  ascend  the  pallisades  ;  from  whence  more  than  one 
hundred  were  shot  down  by  the  assailants  who  had 
then  surrounded  the  fort.  Others  attempting  to  break 
through  the  lines  of  the  troops,  were  either  shot  or  cut 
down  ;  and  several  perished  in  the  flames.  The  scene 
continued  about  an  hour  ;  when  it  was  found  that  sev 
enty  wigwams  had  been  destroyed,  and  that  the  ground 
was  strewed  with  the  bodies  of  between  five  and  six 
hundred  of  the  slain.  Mason's  loss  was  only  two  men 
killed  and  sixteen  wounded. 

In  August,  1814,  a  bombardment  of  Stonington  took 
place  from  a  British  74,  a  frigate,  a  sloop  of  war  and 
an  armed  brig  ;  but  with  the  aid  of  two  18  pounders 
and  a  4  pounder,  the  inhabitants  defended  the  place  ; 
prevented  the  landing  of  troops  from  barges  ;  and  final 
ly  compelled  the  enemy  to  haul  off,  with  his  brig  con 
siderably  shattered. 

NEW-LONDON 

Is  a  city  and  port  of  entry.  It  has  the  best  harbor  in 
Connecticut,  and  is  defended  by  Forts  Trumbull  and 
Griswold.  The  city  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Thames, 


NEW-LONDON*  403 

within  3  miles  of  its  mouth,  and  contains  a  eourt  house, 
2  banks,  5  churches,  and  a  population  of"  between  3 
and  4000.  Many  of  the  houses  on  the  heights,  back  of 
the  town,  and  a  few  in  the  city,  are  handsome ;  but 
the  general  appearance  of  the  place  is  uninteresting. 

New-London,  like  Stonington,  was  once  within  the 
territory  of  the  Pequot  Indians,  and  was  settled  at  the 
same  time.  About  4  miles  east  of  the  city,  on  what  is 
called  Fort  Hill,  this  nation  had  their  strongest  fortress. 
But  slight  remains  of  it,  however,  are  now  to  be  seen. 

In  September,  1781,  after  the  treason  of  Arnold,  an 
expedition  was  entrusted  to  his  care  against  New-Lon 
don.  A  strong  detachment  landed  on  both  sides  of  the 
harbor  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Arnold,  who  com 
manded  in  person  the  troops  which  landed  on  the  west 
side,  immediately  advanced  against  Fort  Trumbull,  an 
adjoining  redoubt,  and  New-London.  These  posts  be 
ing  untenable,  were  abandoned  on  his  approach.  Col. 
Eyere,  who  commanded  the  detachment  which  landed 
on  the  eastern  side,  proceeded  to  storm  Fort  Griswold, 
situate  on  Groton  Hill.  It  was  occupied  by  a  garrison 
of  160  men,  commanded  by  Col.  Ledyard,  a  part  of 
whom  had  just  evacuated  the  works  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river.  Ledyard  defended  the  fort,  until  the 
British  succeeded  in  entering  the  embrasures  with 
charged  bayonets.  Further  resistance  being  useless, 
Ledyard  surrendered  his  sword  to  the  British  colonel ; 
who,  in  defiance  of  every  rule  of  civilized  warfare, 
plunged  it  into  the  bosom  of  the  conquered  officer,  and 
continued  the  carnage  until  the  greater  part  of  the  gar 
rison  was  destroyed.  Eyere,  however,  lost  his  own 
life  in  the  affair,  and  200  of  his  men  were  either  killed 

KK 


404  FROM  NEW-LONDON  TO  NORWICH. 

or  wounded.  New-London  was,  at  the  same  time,  set 
on  fire  by  the  direction  of  Arnold,  and  most  of  its  build 
ings  and  all  the  public  stores  deposited  in  the  place, 
consumed  in  the  conflagration. 

Forts  Griswold  and  Trumbull  are  still  in  tolerable 
preservation ;  and  were  garrisoned  by  the  government 
during  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain. 

A  steam-boat  leaves  New-London  every  Monday 
and  Friday  on  the  arrival  of  the  Boston  stage,  which  is 
generally  at  7  P.  M.  and  reaches  New- York  early  the 
next  morning.  Leaves  New- York  for  New-London 
every  Wednesday  and  Saturday  at  3  P.  M. ;  and  con 
tinues  on  her  trip  from  New-London,  every  Monday 
and  Friday  at  4  P.  M.  up  the  Thames  river  to  Norwich, 
14  miles  distant. 

Stages  also  leave  New-London  on  Tuesday,  Thurs 
day  and  Saturday,  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrive  at  Hartford,  at 
6  P.  M.  passing  through  Waterford,  Montville,  Salem, 
Colchester,  Hebron,  Marlborough,  Glastenbury  and 
East  Hartford.  Distance  47  miles— fare  $3.  This  is 
the  most  direct  route  ;  but  the  traveller  will  find  it  in 
teresting  to  take  a  trip  up  the  Thames  to  Norwich ; 
from  whence  a  conveyance  may  be  had  to  Hartford 
three  times  a  week,  as  noticed  hereafter. 

FROM  NEW-LONDON  TO  NORWICH, 

by  Steam-Boat. 

Previous  to  the  settlement  of  New-London,  in  1648, 
the  Thames  was  called  the  Pcquot  river ;  but  at  that 
period  it  received  its  present  name.  It  rises  in  the 
Mashapaug  pond  in  Union,  3  miles  N.  E.  of  Hartford, 
passes  into  Massachusetts,  re-enters  Connecticut,  and 


NORWICH.  405 

pursues  a  southerly  course  till  it  falls  into  Long  Island 
Sound,  It  is  navigable  for  large  vessels  no  farther  than 
Norwich,  During  the  late  war,  while  New-London 
was  blockaded,  the  U.  S.  ships  Macedonian,  United 
States  and  Hornet,  were  moored  in  a  cove  above  Mas- 
sapeaug  Point ;  and  a  small  battery  erected  for  their 
protection. 

MOHEGAN  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Thames,  4  miles 
south  of  Norwich,  and  is  the  residence  of  about  300 
Mohegan  Indians,  the  only  remnant  of  that  once  pow 
erful  tribe,  who  formerly  owned  this  section  of  country. 
On  Horton's  Hill,  not  far  from  this  place,  the  lines  of  an 
old  Indian  fort  can  still  be  traced. 

TRADING  COVE,  about  1  mile  farther,  is  a  bay  extend 
ing  a  short  distance  into  what  was  once  the  Indian 
country,  and  derived  its  name  from  the  traffic  which 
was  here  carried  on  between  the  colonists  and  the  Mo<» 
hegans.  The  residence  of  Uncas,  their  sachem,  and 
early  friend  of  the  whites,  was  near  this  cove,  now  the 
centre  of  the  Indian  reservation. 

NORWICH 

Is  an  incorporated  city.  It  contains  three  compact 
settlements  ;  of  which  Chelsea  Landing,  situate  at  the 
point  of  land  between  the  Shetucket  and  Yantic  rivers, 
is  the  principal.  Its  location  is  peculiarly  romantic ; 
and  it  is  a  place  of  much  enterprise  and  business. 
What  is  called  the  TOWN  is  2  miles  northwest  of  Chel 
sea,  containing  the  court  house  and  some  other  public 
buildings  ;  and  the  third  settlement  is  Bean  Hill,  in  the 
western  part  of  Norwich.  The  city  contains  a  bank,  4 
or  5  churches,  and  several  manufacturing  establish* 


406  KORWICH. 

ments.  The  Yantic  falls,  1  mile  from  Chelsea,  are 
handsome,  and  afford  facilities  for  mills  and  manufac 
tories.  From  a  rock  70  or  80  feet  in  height,  which 
overhangs  the  stream,  tradition  says  a  number  of  Nar- 
ragansets  once  precipitated  themselves  when  pursued 
by  the  Mohegans. 

Settlements  were  commenced  at  Norwich  as  early  as 
1660.  A  part  of  the  town  was  first  conveyed  *o  Thom 
as  Leffingwell,  a  colonial  militia  officer,  by  the  sachet 
Uncas,  in  consideration  of  services  rendered  him  in  a 
war  with  a  neighboring  tribe.  A  fort  belonging  to  Un 
cas,  on  the  Pequot  river,  was  closely  besieged  by  the 
Narragansets ;  and  the  provisions  being  nearly  expend 
ed,  it  was  reduced  to  the  last  extremity.  In  this  situa 
tion,  Uncas  contrived  to  notify  the  English  at  Saybrook 
fort  of  his  distressed  condition.  Leffingwell,  who  com 
manded  that  fort,  immediately  conveyed  to  the  besieg 
ed  a  supply  of  provisions ;  which  being  soon  known  to 
the  assailants,  they  were  induced  to  raise  the  siege. 
For  this  generous  conduct  of  Leffingwell,  Uncas  con 
veyed  to  him  the  land  about  the  fort,  and  afterwards 
gave  him  a  formal  deed  of  a  township,  embracing  most 
of  the  present  town  of  Norwich. 

On  an  elevated  bank  north  of  what  is  called  the  Cove, 
and  near  the  Yantic  falls,  is  the  burying  ground  of  the 
royal  family  of  the  Mohegans,  commonly  called  "the 
burying  ground  of  the  Uncasses."  Many  of  their 
graves  are  still  designated  by  coarse  stones ;  on  some 
of  which  are  English  inscriptions.  Uncas  was  buried 
here,  and  many  of  his  decendants  ;  but  his  family  is 
now  nearly  extinct.  There  are  one  or  two  living  who 
claim  a  kindred  ;  but  who  have  very  little  of  the 
nanimity  or  valor  for  which  he  was  so  conspicuous* 


FROM  NORWICH  TO  HARTFORD.       407 

The  Plain  near  the  burying  ground,  was  the  summer 
residence  of  the  Mohegans,  and  is  a  most  delightful 
spot. 

FROM  NORWICH  TO  HARTFORD. 

Stages  leave  Norwich  on  Tuesday,  Thursday  and 
Saturday  at  8  A.  M.,  and  arrive  at  Hartford  at  8  P.  M. 
Distance  39  miles — tare  $2,50.  The  intermediate  dis 
tances  and  places  are  as  follows  : 


Miles. 

Bolton, 4 

East  Hartford, 13 

Hartford, 1 


Miles. 

Bozrah, 5 

Lebanon, 4 

Coventry,   12 

EAST  HARTFORD  is  located  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  river,  directly  opposite  Hartford,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  an  elegant  bridge,  which,  in 
cluding  the  cause-way,  is  nearly  a  mile  long.  The  viU 
lage  contains  4  churches,  several  manufacturing  estab 
lishments,  and  between  2  and  3000  inhabitants, 

HARTFORD. 

A  settlement  was  commenced  by  the  English  at  this 
place  in  1634.  The  Dutch,  from  New-Netherlands, 
had  previously  established  a  trading  house  and  port  at 
the  place,  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  on  a  commerce 
with  the  Indians,  and  were  disposed  to  prevent  the 
English  from  participating  in  the  traffic.  But  finding 
that  this  could  not  be  effected,  without  a  bloody  con 
test,  they  abandoned  the  design. 

The  charter  which  was  originally  granted  to  the  col 
onists  of  Connecticut,  having  been  demanded  by  the 
English  monarch  in  1686,  through  the  medium  of  an 
agent,  it  was  reluctantly  surrendered  by  the  colonial 

KK2 


40$  HARTFORD. 

legislature.  This  took  place  in  an  evening  ;  and 
it  remained  on  a  table  in  a  room  where  an  agent  and 
several  British  officers  had  assembled,  the  windows  be 
ing  open,  on  a  preconcerted  signal,  the  candles  were 
extinguished  by  persons  in  the  street,  and  the  charter 
seized  by  a  citizen  in  the  room,  and  conveyed  to  a  tree ; 
in  the  cavity  of  which  it  remained  for  several  years. 
This  tree  is  still  standing  ;  and  is  known  by  the  name 
of  the  Charter  Oak.  It  is  located  in  the  lower  part  of 
the  town  in  the  street  running  east  from  the  south 
church,  and  is  directVy  in  front  of  the  ancient  mansion 
of  the  Wyllis  family.  The  charter  is  still  preserved  in 
the  office  of  the  secretary  of  state. 

Hartford  is  now  the  largest  city  in  the  state.  It  is 
located  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  at 
the  head  of  sloop  navigation,  and  50  miles  from  its 
mouth.  The  city  is  handsomely  laid  out,  and  contains 
a  number  of  elegant  buildings  and  private  residences. 
Among  its  public  buildings,  are  a  state  house,  arsenal, 
3  banks,  a  museum,  an  academy,  a  college,  an  asylum 
for  the  deaf  and  dumb,  an  asylum  for  the  insane,  and  7 
or  8  churches.  Population,  between  8  and  9000.  The 
principal  public  houses  are  Bennet's,  Morgan's  and 
Ripley's. 

Washington  College  is  in  Main-street,  in  the  south 
part  of  the  city.  It  was  opened  in  1324,  and  consists 
of  two  edifices;  one  of  which  is  150  feet  long  and  4 
stories  high,  and  contains  the  rooms  of  the  students.  In 
the  other  is  the  chapel,  recitation  rooms  and  library. 

The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  is  on  Tower  Hill,  one 
mile  west  of  the  city ;  and  was  the  first  institution  o  f 
the  kind  established  in  the  United  States.    It  is  under 


HARTFORD.  409 

the  direction  of  Mr.  Gallaudet,  a  gentleman  eminently 
qualified  for  the  station.  He  is  assisted  by  Mr.  Le 
Clerck,  who  is  deaf  and  dumb,  but  a  man  of  distin 
guished  talents.  The  permanent  fund  of  the  institu 
tion,  including  a  donation  of  land  by  Congress,  amounts 
to  $215,539  ;  of  which  sum  $80,000  are  available.  The 
number  of  pupils  is  generally  about  70 ;  many  of  whom 
are  supported  by  public  and  private  charities. 

A  visit  to  the  institution  is  unusually  interesting. 
The  utmost  order  and  decorum  prevail ;  and  the  stran 
ger  will  be  delighted  with  the  means  here  employed  for 
enlightening  and  cultivating  the  minds  of  an  unfortu 
nate  class  of  the  community  ;  and  with  the  rapid  im 
provement  they  make,  not  only  in  writing,  but  in  a 
study  of  many  of  the  sciences.  Every  thing  is  commu 
nicated  by  means  of  signs.  After  being  taught  the 
mode  of  conveying  the  most  necessary  ideas,  they  pro 
ceed  to  study  the  alphabet  employed  at  the  institution  ; 
then  the  names  of  visible  objects,  and  the  order  of  the 
letters  used  in  designating  them ;  and  finally  a  knowl 
edge  of  absent  objects  and  abstract  ideas,  by  means  of 
ingenious  devices  and  definitions.  Many  soon  attain 
a  knowledge  of  writing  correctly ;  and  some  are  ena 
bled  to  communicate  their  ideas  in  chaste  and  even  ele 
gant  language. 

The  new  Exchange  Buildings,  on  the  corner  of  Main 
and  State  streets,  are  deserving  of  notice,  as  a  speci 
men  of  good  taste,  and  is  ornamental  to  the  city. 

The  JVeto  City  Hall  is  an  elegant  structure,  creditable 
to  the  taste  and  munificence  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  new  Episcopal  Church,  and  the  High  Softool  in 
Washington-street,  occupy  a  prominent  place.  The 


410  HARTFORD. 

latter  is  delightfully  situated  on  a  commanding  emi 
nence,  and  ranks  in  spaciousness  and  beauty  with  the 
most  favored  establishments  of  the  kind  in  other  cities. 
The  Episcopal  Church  is  a  monument  of  liberal  public 
spirit  guided  by  good  taste,  and  is  surpassed  in  design 
and  execution  by  few,  if  any  similar  buildings  in  our 
country. 

The  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  is  a  stone  building,  150 
feet  long  and  50  wide,  4  stories  high,  with  wings  of  3 
stories.  It  is  located  a  little  south  of  the  city. 

Hartford  has  undergone  a  surprising  change  within 
a  few  years.  Its  streets  have  been  greatly  improved ; 
many  of  its  old  buildings  have  given  place  to  new  and 
elegant  dwellings,  and  the  whole  appearance  of  the 
city  exhibits  an  unusual  degree  of  enterprise  and  pros 
perity. 

STEAM  BOATS. 

A  steam  boat  leaves  Hartford  for  New-York  on  Mon 
day,  Wednesday,  Thursday  and  Saturday,  at  11  A.  M. 
reaching  New- York  the  next  morning;  and  leaves 
New- York  on  Monday,  Tuesday,  Thursday  and  Fri 
day  at  4  P.  M.  reaching  Hartford  the  next  day  at  noon. 

STAGES. 

To  New-Haven  and  New-York. — A  stage  leaves  Hart 
ford  every  morning,  (Sundays  excepted)  which  reaches 
New-Haven  at  noon,  and  New- York  the  next  morning. 
Fare  to  New-Haven,  40  miles,  $2  ;  to  New- York,  123 
miles,  $5,50. 

To  Boston. — A  stage  leaves  daily  (Sundays  excepted) 
at  6  A.  M.  and  reaches  Boston  at  12  at  night.  Dis 
tance,  136  miles — fare  $5,50. 


FROM  HARTFORD  TO  NEW-HAVEN.  411 

To  Litchfield,  CL—k  stage  leaves  Hartford  on  Mon 
day,  Wednesday  and  Friday  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrives  at 
Litchfield  at  3  P.  M.— Distance  30  miles,  fare  $2. 

To  Hanover,  JV*.  H.  (up  Connecticut  river.) — A  stage 
leaves  Hartford  daily,  (except  Sundays)  arrives  at 
Brattleborough,  Vt.  the  first  day,  and  Hanover,  N.  H. 
the  second — passing  through  Windsor,  Ct.  Springfield, 
Northampton,  Deerfield,  and  Greenfield,  Mass.  Brat 
tleborough  and  Westminster,  Vt.  Walpole  and  Charles- 
town,  N.  H.,  Windsor  and  Hartford,  Vt.  to  Hanover. 
[This  line  intersects  the  daily  stage  for  Boston  at 
Northampton,  and  the  daily  stage  for  Saratoga  Springs 
at  Charlestown.]  Distance  from  Hartford  to  Hanover, 
152  miles— fare  $7,25. 

To  New-London. — A  stage  leaves  Hartford  on  Sun 
day,  Wednesday  and  Friday  at  8  A.  M.  and  reaches 
New-London  at  5  P.  M. — Distance  47  miles — fare  $3. 

To  Mbany. — A  stage  leaves  Hartford  and  Albany  ev 
ery  morning  (Sunday  excepted)  at  2,  and  arrives  at 
each  place  at  7  P.  M. — Distance  96  miles — fare  $5. 

FROM   HARTFORD  TO  NEW-HAVEN.— 40  miles. 
The  intermediate  places  and  distances  are  as  follows : 


Miles. 

Wethersfield, 4 

Rocky  Hill, 3 


Miles. 

Durham, 7 

Northford, 8 

New-Haven, *   10 


Middletown,  , 

WETHERSFIELD  is  located  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  river,  4  miles  below  Hartford.  The  soil, 
which  is  of  the  finest  order,  is  principally  devoted  to  the 
culture  of  onions  ;  of  which  large  quantities  are  export 
ed  annually.  The  labor  is  principally  performed  by 
women  and  children.  The  new  penitentiary  of  tha 
erected  at  this  place. 


412  MIDDLETOWN. 

ROCKY  HILL,  3  miles  ;  a  parish  in  the  town  of  Weth- 
ersfield,  containing  a  lofty  eminence,  from  which  a  rich 
and  variegated  prospect  of  the  surrounding  country  is 
enjoyed.  Six  miles  farther  is  a  village,  called  Middle- 
town  Upper  Houses ;  from  which  to  the  city  of  Middle- 
town  is  2  miles. 

MIDDLETOWN, 

A  port  of  entry,  is  handsomely  located  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  31  miles  from  its  mouth. 
Among  its  public  buildings  are  a  court  house,  jail, 
alms-house,  bank,  10  churches,  and  a  military  academy. 
There  are  also  several  extensive  manufactories  of  rifles, 
swords,  buttons,  ivory  combs,  woollen  and  cotton 
goods,  &c.  The  population  of  the  city  is  about  3500. 
Francis',  Swathel's,  and  Boardman's  are  among  the 
best  public  houses. 

Capt.  Patridge's  Military  Jlcademy  is  pleasantly  situat 
ed  a  short  distance  from  the  city.  The  two  principal 
buildings  are  each  150  feet  long,  50  broad  and  4  stories 
high.  There  is  also  a  chapel,  with  recitation  rooms 
above,  and  a  dining  hall.  The  latter  is  120  feet  long, 
and  faces  the  parade.  The  whole  assumes  a  very  hand 
some  and  imposing  appearance  ;  and  from  the  top  of 
the  chapel  may  be  had  an  extensive  view  of  the  sur 
rounding  country.  The  course  of  instruction  is  similar 
to  that  pursued  at  the  military  academy  at  West  Point. 
The  scholars  wear  the  uniform  of  cadets  ;  and,  besides 
other  sciences,  are  taught  the  use  of  arms,  and  are  sub 
ject  to  a  strict  military  discipline. 

On  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Connecticut,  opposite  to 
JVIiddletown,  are  several  quarries  of  free  stone,  used  for 


MIDDLETOWN.  413 

building.  Immediately  below  the  city,  the  river  turns 
abruptly  to  the  west ;  and  passes  between  two  lofty 
hills,  forming  what  are  called  the  Narrows.  Within 
these  Narrows,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river,  is  a  lead 
mine,  which  was  used  during  the  revolutionary  war. 
It  can  be  approached  only  in  boats  or  by  means  of  a 
foot  path.* 

In  proceeding  on  the  stage  route  to  New-Haven,  the 
only  object  witnessed  worthy  of  remark,  is  a  natural 
ice  house  in  the  parish  of  Northford,  18  miles  from  Mid- 
dletown,  and  7  from  New-Haven.  It  is  on  the  declivi 
ty  of  a  trap  ridge  near  the  road ;  and  contains  ice 
throughout  the  year. 

A  natural  ice  house,  of  still  greater  extent,  is  in  the 
town  of  Meriden,  on  another  route  from  Hartford  to 
New-Haven,  and  nearly  equa-distant  from  those  pla 
ces.  The  Journal  of  Science  remarks,  that  it  is  in  a 
country  composing  "  a  part  of  the  secondary  trap  re 
gion  of  Connecticut,  and  is  marked  by  numerous  distinct 
ridges  of  green  stone,  which  present  lofty  mural  preci 
pices,  and  from  their  number,  contiguity  and  parallel- 


*  Continuing  a  course  down  the  river,  the  steam  boat 
successively  passes  Middle  Haddam,  Haddam,  East 
Haddam,  Essex  or  Pettipaug,  and  Saybrook,  where  the 
river  enters  Long  Island  Sound.  The  shores  are  gen 
erally  bold  and  rocky,  and  present  but  few  objects  of 
interest.  Saybrook  was  the  first  town  settled  on  the 
river ;  at  which  time  (1635)  a  small  fort  was  erected  at 
the  place.  The  town  was  originally  granted  to  Lord 
Say  and  Seal,  Lord  Brook  and  others  ;  and  derived  its 
name  from  these  proprietors.  Yale  College  was  locat 
ed  here  for  a  time,  and  afterwards  removed  to  New- 
Haven. 


414  MIDDLETOWN. 

ism,  they  often  form  narrow  precipitous  defiles,  filled 
more  or  less  with  fragments  of  rocks  of  various  sizes, 
from  that  of  a  hand  stone  to  that  of  a  cottage.  These 
fragments  are  the  detritus  or  debris  of  these  moun 
tains,  and  every  one  in  the  least  acquainted  with  such 
countries,  knows  how  much  they  always  abound  with 
similar  ruins. 

In  such  a  defile  the  natural  ice  house  in  question  is 
situated.  On  the  south-western  side,  there  is  a  trap 
ridge  of  naked  perpendicular  rock,  which,  with  the  slo 
ping  ruins  at  the  base,  appears  to  be  400  feet  high ; 
the  parallel  ridge  which  forms  the  other  side  of  the  de 
file  is  probably  not  over  40  feet  high,  but  it  rises  ab 
ruptly  on  the  eastern  side,  and  is  covered  by  other 
wood,  which  occupies  the  narrow  valley  also.  This 
valley  is,  moreover,  choked  in  an  astonishing  degree 
with  the  ruins  of  the  contiguous  mountain  ridge,  and 
exhibits  many  fragments  of  rock  which  would  fill  a 
large  room.  As  the  defile  is  very  narrow,  these  frag 
ments  have,  in  their  fall,  been  arrested  here,  by  the 
low  parallel  ridge,  and  are  piled  on  one  another  in  vast 
confusion,  forming  a  series  of  cavities  which  are  situa 
ted  among  and  under  these  rocks.  Many  of  them 
have  reposed  there  for  ages,  as  appears  from  the  fact 
that  small  trees,  (the  largest  that  the  scanty  soil,  accu 
mulated  by  revolving  centuries  can  support)  are  now 
growing  on  some  of  these  fragments  of  rock.  Leaves 
also  and  other  vegetable  ruins  have  accumulated 
among  the  rocks  and  trees,  and  choked  the  mouths  of 
many  of  the  cavities  among  the  ruins.  This  defile,  thus 
narrow  and  thus  occupied  by  forest,  and  by  rocky  ruins, 
runs  nearly  N.  and  S.  and  is  completely  impervious  to 


NEW-HAVEN.  415 

the  sun's  rays,  except  when  he  is  near  the  meridian. 
Then,  indeed,  for  an  hour,  he  looks  into  this  secluded 
valley,  but  the  trees  and  the  rocks  and  the  thick  beds 
of  leaves  scarcely  permit  his  beams  to  make  the  slight 
est  impression. 

It  is  in  the  cavities  beneath  the  masses  of  rocks  al 
ready  described,  that  the  ice  is  formed.  The  ground 
descends  a  little  to  the  south,  and  a  small  brook  ap 
pears  to  have  formed  a  channel  among  the  rocks.  The 
ice  is  thick  and  well  consolidated,  and  its  gradual  melt 
ing,  in  the  warm  season,  causes  a  stream  of  ice  cold 
water  to  issue  from  this  defilg.  This  fact  has  been 
known  to  the  people  of  the  vicinity  for  several  genera 
tions,  and  the  youth  have,  since  the  middle  of  the  last 
century,  been  accustomed  to  resort  to  this  place,  in 
parties,  for  recreation,  and  to  drink  the  waters  of  the 
cold-flowing  brook." 

NEW-HAVEN, 

Is  usually  pronounced  by  travellers,  to  be  one  of  the 
handsomest  towns  in  the  Union.  It  is  located  ardund 
a  harbor  which  sets  up  about  4  miles  from  Long  Island 
Sound  ;  and  is  the  semi-capital  of  the  state.  The  city 
is  built  on  a  large  plain,  encircled  on  all  sides,  except 
those  occupied  by  the  water,  by  hills  and  lofty  moun 
tains.  It  is  divided  into  two  parts,  called  the  old  and 
new  townships  ;  in  each  of  which  is  an  open  square. 
The  houses  are  generally  neat,  and  some  are  very  ele 
gant.  To  each  dwelling,  there  is  generally  attached  a 
garden,  and  frequently  a  beautiful  yard  in  front.  Ad 
ded  to  which,  several  of  the  streets  are  adorned  with 
lofty  trees,  giving  to  the  whole  a  rural  and  most  de- 


416  NEW-HAVEN. 

lightful  appearance.  Among  the  public  buildings  are 
a  state  house,  the  college  edifices,  5  churches,  a  court 
house,  jail,  2  banks,  a  custom  house  and  3  or  4  acade 
mies.  The  population  is  between  11  and  12,000. 

The  Public  Square  or  Green,  near  the  centre  of  the 
city,  is  an  elegant  spot,  containing  several  acres,  and  is 
surrounded  by  stately  elms.  In  the  centre  are  three 
churches  and  the  state  house  ;  on  the  west  side,  the  col 
lege  buildings ;  and  on  the  east  side,  fronting  the  state 
house,  the  Tontine  Coffee  House.  The  space  immedi 
ately  in  the  rear  of  the  churches,  called  the  Upper 
Green,  was  formerly  uged  as  a  burying  ground  ;  but  in 
1821  the  monuments  were  removed  to  the  new  bury 
ing  ground,  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the  city.  The 
ancient  monument  ofDixwell,  (seep.  352,)  is  still  to  be 
seen,  and  it  is  believed  by  many  that  the  other  regi- 
ci'les,  Goffe  and  Whalley,  were  also  interred  here ;  but 
N'rlfe  opinion  is  unsupported  by  evidence.  Goffe  died 
at  Hadley,  and  was  probably  buried  there;  and  of 
Whalley  no  certain  information  was  ever  obtained  af 
ter  he  left  Hadley. 

Yale  College  was  founded  in  1701,  and  was  named  af 
ter  its  early  benefactor,  Elihu  Yale,  governor  of  the 
East  India  Company.  It  was  originally  located  at  Kil- 
linffworth  ;  afterwards  removed  to  Saybrook,  (see  p. 
413)  ;  and  from  thence,  in  171 7,  to  New-Haven.  The 
faculty  is  composed  of  a  president,  10  professors,  a  li 
brarian  and  8  tutors.  The  library  consists  of  about 
10,000  volumes;  and  the  literary  societies  among  the 
students  have  libraries  amounting,  collectively,  to  5000 
more.  The  cabinet  of  minerals  is  very  extensive,  and 
by  far  the  most  valuable  of  any  in  the  Union.  The  col 
lege  buildings  consist  of  four  spacious  edifices,  each 


NEW-HAVEN.  417 

4  stories  high,  104  feet  long  and  40  wide,  and  each  con 
taining  32  rooms  for  students  ;  two  chapels,  one  con 
taining  a  philosophical  chamber  ;  a  Lyceum,  containing 
the  library  and  recitation  rooms — all  of  brick ;  and  a 
handsome  dining  hall  in  the  rear  of  the  other  buildings, 
built  of  stone.  Seven  of  these  buildings  stand  in  a  line 
fronting  the  green,  the  Lyceum  occupying  a  central 
position ;  and  the  whole,  with  the  charming  scenery 
around,  form  a  most  enchanting  and  elegant  landscape. 
The  medical  institution  fronting  College  street,  is  con 
nected  with  the  college,  and  has  a  valuable  anatom 
ical  museum.  The  number  of  students  at  Yale  is  gen 
erally  from  450  to  500.  The  alumni  of  the  institution 
amounted,  in  1826,  to  upwards  of  4000 ;  of  whom  more 
than  2200  were  then  living. 

The  JVcw  Burying  Ground,  containing  several  acres, 
is  divided  into  parallelograms,  which  are  subdivided  for 
families.  The  ground  is  planted  with  trees,  mo^  *  r 
willows ;  and  the  white  monuments,  several  of  whien 
are  obelisks,  seen  through  the  foliage,  with  the  taste 
and  uniformity  every  where  discovered,  give  to  the 
whole  a  most  impressive  and  solemn  appearance. 

The  Tontine  Coffee  House.,  kept  by  Mr.  Andrews,  is 
one  of  the  best  establishments  of  the  kind  in  the  U.  S. 
It  is  located  directly  in  front  of  the  state  house  and 
college  edifices,  the  public  square  intervening,  com 
manding  from  its  upper  or  fourth  story,  a  beautiful  and 
extensive  view  of  the  city  and  the  surrounding  country. 
The  Tontine,  which  is  built  of  brick,  is  80  feet  long, 
with  a  wing  extending  back  100  feet.  It  contains  a 
spacious  dining  hall,  cotillion  room,  8  private  and  pub 
lic  parlours,  and  a  sufficient  number  of  lodging  cham 
bers  to  accommodate  from  80  to  100  guests.  It  is  kept 


418  FARMINGTON  CANAL. 

in  the  best  style,  and  is  entitled  to  the  most  liberal  pat 
ronage. 

West  Rock  is  2  miles  north-west  of  New-Haven.  It 
is  the  southern  extremity  of  the  east  ridge  of  the  Green 
Mountains,  and  is  a  perpendicular  bluff  fronting  the 
south,  400  feet  in  height.  The  village  of  Hotchkisstown 
is  at  its  foot.  The  cave  in  which  the  regicide  judges, 
Whalley  and  Goffe,  secreted  themselves  for  three  or 
four  years,  (seep.  352,)  is  on  the  summit  of  the  rock, 
about  a  mile  north  of  the  bluff.  The  cave  is  formed  by 
the  crevices  between  several  large  rocks,  apparently 
thrown  together  by  some  convulsion,  and  is  entirely 
above  ground.  Near  the  top  of  one  of  the  rocks  is  this 
inscription:  "Opposition  to  tyrants  is  obedience  to 
God."  During  the  continuance  of  the  regicides  at  this 
place,  they  were  furnished  daily  with  food  by  a  family 
who  resided  near  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 

East  Rock  is  2  miles  north  cast  of  New-Haven,  and  is 
the  southern  termination  of  the  Mount  Tom  range  of 
mountains.  It  is  370  feet  high ;  and  from  its  top  a  fine 
view  is  had  of  New-Haven,  its  harbor,  the  Sound  and 
Long  Island.  It  was  for  some  years  the  residence  of  a 
hermit,  who  was  found  dead  in  his  habitation  a  few 
years  since. 

The  Farmington  Canal,  which  was  originally  commen 
ced  at  the  north  line  of  the  state,  terminates  at  New- 
Haven — distance  58  miles,  lockage  218  feet.  This  ca 
nal  has  since  been  extended  to  Northampton,  Mass. 
between  20  and  30  miles  farther}  and  a  branch  has 
been  constructed  from  Farmington  up  the  Farmington 
river,  to  New-Hartford,  15  miles. 

The  towns  bordering  on  the  Sound,  near  New-Ha 
ven,  are  visited  in  the  summer  months  by  numerous 


FROM  NEW-HAVEN  TO  NEW  YORK.  419 

invalids  for  the  benefit  of  the  sea  breeze  and  a  salubri 
ous  climate.  Among  these  towns,  GUILFORD,  15  miles 
east  of  New-Haven",  is  generally  preferred.  It  has  two 
harbors,  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  and  is  con 
stantly  supplied  with  the  best  of  oysters,  lobsters  and 
fish,  taken  in  and  near  the  harbors. 

Steam  Boats  ply  between  New- Haven  and  New- York 
daily,  leaving  the  former  place  at  8  P.  M.  and  the  latter 
at  7  A.  M.  'The  passage  is  generally  performed  in  8  or 
9  hours.  Fare  $2. 

Stages  leave  New-Haven  daily,  for  Hartford,  Boston, 
Albany,  and  New- York.  Distance  to  Hartford  40  miles, 
fare,  $2 ;  to  Boston,  136  miles,  fare  $7,50  ;  to  Albany, 
1 10  miles,  fare  $7  ;  to  New- York,  86  miles,  fare  $4.* 


*  This  route  is  usually  performed  in  12  or  14  hours, 

and  the  intervening  places  and  distances  are  as  follows  : 

Miles.  Miles. 


Stratford, 13 

Bridgeport, 3 

Fairfield, 5 

Norwalk, 10 


Stamford, 11 

Greenwich, 6 

Harlaem, 30 

New- York, 8 


BRIDGEPORT  is  handsomely  situated  on  both  banks 
of  the  Pughquonnuck  river.  The  village  contains  a 
bank  and  two  churches. 

FAIRFIELD  is  a  port  of  entry  on  Long1  Island  Sound, 
containing  a  court  house,  academy,  several  churches, 
and  a  population  of  about  2000.  It  was  on  a  low  level 
piece  of  ground,  which  is  seen  on  the  left  side  of  the 
road  about  a  mile  and  a  half  after  leaving  the  village, 
that  the  remnant  of  the  Pequot  tribe  of  Indians,  after 
the  destruction  of  their  fort  by  Capt.  Mason  at  Mystic, 
(seep.  401,)  were  either  killed  or  captured.  The  bat 
tle  was  severe  and  bloody,  and  some  reliques  of  arms 
used  in  the  contest  are  at  this  day  occasionally  found 
by  the  inhabitants.  LL£ 


420  FROM  NEW-HAVEN  TO  MTCHF1ELD. 

FROM  NEW-HAVEN  TO  LITCHFIELD. 

A  stage  leaves  New-Haven  daily  fjpr  Litchfield,  pass 
ing  through  Waterbury  and  Wrftertown — distance  38 
miles. 

Passing  West  Rock,  (see  p.  418,)  and  proceeding 
from  thence  for  a  considerable  distance  in  a  northerly 
direction,  through  a  beautiful  valley,  having  on  its  right 
a  lofty  rocky  barrier,  with  rude  perpendicular  precipi 
ces,  Beacon  Mountain  is  reached  in  travelling  14  miles 
from  New-Haven.  This  mountain  is  a  ridge  of  almost 
naked  rock  stretching  to  the  south-west.  "  The  road, 
which  is  formed  in  the  natural  gap  of  the  mountain* 
here  winds  through  a  bold  gulf  or  defile,  so  narrow, 
that  at  one  place  only  a  single  carriage  can  pass  at 
once.  On  both  sides,  the  clifts  are  lofty,  particularly 
on  the  left ;  and  on  the  right,  a  little  distance  from  the 
road,  they  overhang  in  a  frightful  manner."  Beyond 
this  gap,  the  road  turns  more  to  the  left,  running  along 
a  rivulet ;  and  after  three  or  four  miles,  on  rising  an 
eminence,  the  Naugatuck,  a  branch  of  the  Housatonic 


NORWALK  is  on  the  Sound,  and  is  a  pleasant  village, 
containing  an  academy  and  3  churches. 

WEST  CHESTER  COUNTY,  which  is  entered  in  a  few 
miles  after  leaving  Greenwich,  and  which  was  "  neu 
tral  ground"  during  the  revolutionary  war,  was  selected 
by  Mr.  Cooper,  the  novelist,  as  the  principal  scene  of 
his  "Spy." 

At  HORSENECK,  33  miles  from  N.  York,  the  traveller 
is  shown  the  steep  down  which  Gen.  Putnam  descend 
ed  on  horse-back  during  the  revolution. 

At  HARLAEM,  8  miles  from  New- York,  the  road  pass 
es  near  the  East  river,  affording  the  traveller  a  view  of 
HURL  GATE.  (Seep.  106.) 


LITCHFIELD.  421 

river,  is  discovered.     It  runs  through  a  deep  and  nar 
row  gulf,  which  is  seen  from  the  road. 

WATERTOWN,  26  miles  from  New-Haven,  is  on  a 
commanding  hill,  and  is  a  beautiful  little  village,  con 
taining  two  churches. 

LITCHFIELD  is  on  a  handsome  eminence,  and  is  con 
sidered  one  of  the  most  pleasant  villages  in  the  state. 
The  principal  street  extends  more  than  a  mile  in 
length,  and  contains  a  collection  of  neat  houses,  adorn 
ed  with  gardens  and  court  yards.  Among  the  public 
buildings  are  a  court  house,  jail,  bank,  and  2  churches. 
There  is  also  at  this  place  a  young  ladies'  school,  which 
has  obtained  much  celebrity  ;  and  a  distinguished  law 
school,  established  in  1784  by  the  late  Tapping  Reeve, 
and  now  under  the  charge  of  the  Hon.  James  Gould. 
The  number  of  students  educated  at  this  institution 
since  its  establishment  is  between  6  and  700. 

Mount  Tom,  near  the  south-west  corner  of  this  town, 
is  700  feet  above  the  river  at  its  base,  and  affords  from 
its  top  an  extensive  prospect. 

The  Great  Pond,  in  Litchfield,  comprises  an  area  of 
about  900  acres,  is  the  largest  in  the  state,  and  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  affording  at  its  outlet  a  num 
ber  of  valuable  mill  seats. 

A  Chalybeate  Spring  has  been  discovered  within  a 
few  years,  on  the  east  side  of  Mount  Prospect,  four 
miles  west  of  the  village  of  Litchfield.  It  issues  from 
an  extensive  bed  of  sulphuret  of  iron,  and  is  copious 
and  perennial,  exhibiting  in  its  course  much  oxide  of 
iron,  ochre,  and  a  white  deposit. 

Mount  Prospect,  is  a  rocky,  wood  clad,  elevated  ridge, 
of  two  miles  extent.  From  its  summit  an  interesting 


422  FROM  LITCHFIELD  TO  HARTFORD. 

and  diversified  view  is  presented  of  villages  and  lakes, 
and  of  a  well  cultivated,   healthy  country. 

From  Litchfield,  a  stage  may  be  taken  daily,  passing 
through  East  Goshen,  Norfolk,  Canaan,  Sheffield, 
Great  Barrington,  West  Stockbridge,  Chatham,  Nas 
sau,  Schodack  and  Greenbush  to  Albany,  and  reaching 
the  latter  place  in  about  24  hours.  Distance  72  miles 
— fare  $4.  This  is  the  most  direct  route,  also,  from 
Litchfield  to  Saratoga  Springs  ;  but,  to  make  the  tour 
of  New-England  more  complete,  it  is  recommended  to 
proceed  from  Litchfield  to  Hartford,  and  from  thence 
up  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Connecticut  river,  which  is 
variegated  with  villages  and  country  seats,  and  pre 
sents  some  of  the  finest,  scenery  on  the  continent. 

FROM  LITCHFIELD  TO  HARTFORD. 

A  stage  may  be  taken  at  Litchfield  on  Tuesday, 
Thursday  and  Saturday  at  8  A.  M.  passing  'through 
Harwinton,  Burlington  and  Farmington,  and  reaching 
Hartford  at  3  P.  M.  Distance  30  miles— fare  $2. 

HARWINTON  is  a  small  village,  7  miles  from  Litch 
field,  on  the  Naugatuck  river. 

BURLINGTON,  7  miles. 

FARMINGTON,  6  miles.  This  is  a  pleasant  village,  lo 
cated  on  the  Farmington  river,  which,  after  leaving  the 
village,  takes  a  northerly  course  for  15  miles,  where  it 
is  joined  by  the  Salmon  river.  It  then  turns  ^o  the 
south-east,  passing  between  lofty  mountains  and  de 
scends  a  cataract  of  1 50  feet ;  after  which  it  is  called 
the  Windsor  river,  and  joins  the  Connecticut  4  miles 
above  Hartford.  Farmington  contains  3  churches  and 
a  population  of  between  2  and  3000.  [For  a  notice  of 


ROUTE  UP  THE  CONNECTICUT  RIVER.  423 

the  Farmington  canal,  which  passes  through  this  place, 
see  page  418.] 
HARTFORD,  10  miles.     (See  p.  407.) 

ROUTE  UP  THE  VALLEY  OF  CONNECTICUT 
RIVER. 

Stages  run  daily  between  Hartford,  Conn,  and  Han 
over,  N.  H.  up  the  Connecticut  river,  as  noticed  at 
page  411.  Passing  through  East  Hartford,  (see  p. 
407,)  the  first  village  reached  is 

WINDSOR,  7  miles  from  Hartford,  located  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  river.  Settlements  were  commenced  at 
this  place,  as  well  as  at  Hartford,  in  1633. 

ENFIELD,  9  miles.  A  canal  has  been  recently  con 
structed  around  the  falls  at  this  place,  of  sufficient  di 
mensions  to  receive  steam-boats  ;  and  they  now  pass 
as  far  up  as  Springfield  without  difficulty,  and,  except 
in  very  low  water,  for  a  considerable  distance  above 
Windsor,  Vt.  This  canal  commences  at  the  head  of 
the  Falls,  by  a  wing  dam  700  feet  long,  which  reaches 
to  the  middle  of  the  river.  From  the  lower  end  of  the 
wing  dam  a  pier  extends  down  200  feet  parallel  to  and 
100  feet  from  the  west  bank,  and  is  raised  above  the 
river  so  as  to  form  a  basin  and  safe  entrance  to  the 
Grand  Lock.  At  right  angles  to  this  pier,  a  breast  wall 
of  solid  masonry,  strengthened  by  butresses,  extends 
70  feet  towards  the  bank,  and  is  there  united  to  the 
grand  lock.  This  and  the  breast  wall  are  16  feet 
higher  than  the  surface  of  the  water  in  the  canal,  pre 
senting  a  firm  defence  against  the  highest  floods.  The 
breat  wall  covers  twelve  sluices,  with  sliding  gates,  for 
the  free  admission  of  water  for  hydraulic  purposes. 
The  river  banks  are  generally  high  and  rocky,  for  about 


424  SUFF1ELD. 

three  miles  below  the  grand  lock,  and  the  canal  is 
formed  by  an  embankment  of  earth  raised  in  the  bed  of 
the  river,  and  protected  on  the  outside  by  a  stone  wall. 
Two  miles  below  the  guard  lock,  Mill  brook  crosses 
the  line  of  the  canal,  and  is  passed  by  an  aqueduct  of 
90  feet  long  and  60  feet  wide,  having  six  piers  and 
abutments  of  substantial  masonry.  The  height  of  the 
artificial  embankment  increases  gradually,  as  it  passes 
down  the  river,  until  it  rises  to  a  perpendicular  eleva 
tion  of  25  feet,  when  the  high  river  bank  retires  to  the 
west,  and  the  canal  is  carried  about  two  miles  over  land 
to  its  termination  below  the  falls.  Here  are  three  locks 
of  masonry  of  ten  feet  lift  each.  The  locks  are  sepa 
rated  by  pools  50  feet  wide,  in  which  ascending  and 
descending  boats  may  pass  each  other,  and  avoid  the 
detention  which  is  unavoidable  where  several  locks  are 
combined  in  a  connected  line.  The  dimensions  of  the 
locks  are  90  feet  by  20  in  the  clear,  and  they  are  cal 
culated  to  have  four  feet  depth  of  water.  The  depth 
of  the  canal  varies  from  four  to  twenty  feet.  The  aver 
age  width,  at  the  surface  of  the  water,  is  about  seventy 
feet,  and  the  total  length  five  and  a  half  miles. 

SUFFIELD,  1  mile  from  Enfield,  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  river,  is  a  beautiful  town.  The  village,  which  is  on 
an  eminence  about  a  mile  west  of  the  river  road,  is 
composed  principally  of  one  street,  half  'a  mile  in  ex 
tent.  The  houses,  with  their  handsome  gardens  and 
yards,  present  a  picturesque  and  elegant  appearance. 
A  sulphur  spring,  a  mile  or  two  southwest  of  the  vil 
lage,  is  a  place  of  some  resort  by  invalids. 

WEST  SPRINGFIELD,  9  miles,  is  located  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  and  contains  several 


SPRINGFIELH.  425 

handsome  private  dwellings.     A  bridge  here  crosses 
the  river,  connecting  the  place  with 

SPRINGFIELD,  on  the  opposite  side  ;  which  is  a  large 
and  handsome  village.  The  houses  are  principally  lo 
cated  at  the  foot  of  a  hill ;  on  the  west  side  of  which 
are  several  elegant  residences,  and  on  the  summit  a 
U.  S.  arsenal.  The  village  contains  a  court  house,  jail, 
two  churches,  and  several  manufactories. 

The  buildings  composing  the  arsenal  on  the  heights, 
occupy  a  large  scAare,  and  are  surrounded  by  a  high 
wall.  They  are  mostly  built  of  brick  and  present  a 
magnificent  appearance.  About  13,000  muskets  are 
manufactured  here  annually.  The  water  works  em 
ployed  for  the  purpose  are  on  Mill  river,  a  mile  south 
of  the  arsenal. 

Springfield  became  the  theatre  of  savage  barbarity 
during  Philip's  war  in  1675.  The  towns  still  further  up 
the  river  had,  for  some  time  previous,  suffered  severely 
from  repeated  Indian  incursions.  But  the  Springfield 
tribe  had  thus  far  remained  quiet ;  and  it  was  not  till 
the  month  of  October  of  this  year,  that  Philip  could 
succeed  by  his  artifices, 'to  enlist  them  in  his  favor.  On 
the  night  of  the  4th,  it  was  ascertained  by  means  of  a 
friendly  Indian,  that  300  of  the  tribe  had  suddenly  and 
secretly  assembled  at  a  fort  on  Long  Hill,  about  a  mile  ' 
below  the  village.  This  intelligence  produced  much 
consternation  among  the  inhabitants ;  and  they  im 
mediately  repaired  to  their  fortified  houses.  No  dis 
turbance,  however,  occuring  in  the  night,  hopes  were 
entertained'that  hostilities  were  not  intended  on  the 
part  of  the  Indians.  Lieut.  Cooper,  the  commandant 
of  the  place,  and  another,  accordingly  resolved  on  re 
pairing  to  the  fort,  for  the  purpose  of  dissipating  tha 


426  SOUTH  HADLEY  FALLS. 

fears  that  still  existed  among  the  inhabitants.  Having 
reached  the  small  stream  at  the  lower  part  of  the  vil 
lage,  Cooper  and  his  companion  were  shot  by  Indians 
who  were  concealed  in  the  woods.  This  seemed  to  be 
a  signal  for  attack;  as  the  whole  body  immediately 
rushed  into  the  town  with  a  horrid  yell,  and  set  fire  to 
the  unfortified  dwellings,  and  barns.  The  whole  were 
soon  enveloped  in  flames  and  consumed.  During  this 
period,  a  fire  was  kept  up  from  the  fortified  houses  up 
on  the  Indians,  and  several  killed ;  %ut  it  was  not  till 
they  had  destroyed  32  dwellings  and  nearly  as  many 
barns,  and  plundered  every  thing  within  their  reach, 
that  they  withdrew.  A  brick  house  standing  at  the 
time  of  this  catastrophe,  is  still  in  tolerable  preservation. 

During  the  rebellion  of  Shays,  in  1786,  the  armoury 
at  this  place  was  attacked  by  him.  But  he  was  repuls 
ed,  with  the  loss  of  a  few  men  ;  and  his  followers  sub 
sequently  dispersed. 

Pursuing  the  course  of  the  river  on  the  west  side, 
over  a  beautiful  country, 

SOUTH  HADLEY  FALLS  are  reached  in  going  12  miles 
from  Springfield.  The  river  here  descends  in  the  dis 
tance  of  two  and  a  half  miles,  52  feet ;  and  on  the  east 
side,  commencing  at  South  Hadley  village,  a  canal  has 
been  constructed,  corresponding  in  extent  with  these 
falls,  through  which  lumber  and  the  largest  boats  pass. 

Previous  to  reaching  Northampton,  the  river,  (in 
which  there  is  an  abrupt  turn,)  passes  between  Mount 
Tom  on  the  south,  and  Mount  Holyoke  (see  p.  348)  on 
the  north.  North  of  the  latter  mountain,  a  most  charm 
ing  and  extensive  plain  is  presented,  embracing  many 
elegant  villages  and  country  seats. 


MUDDY  BROOK.  427 

NORTHAMPTON,  5  miles  from  South  Hadley.  (See  p. 
347.) 

HADLEY,  2  miles  east  of  Northampton.     (Seep.  351.) 

HATFIELD,  5  miles  north  of  Northampton,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river,  is  a  neat  and  venerable  town, 
having  been  settled  as  early  as  165S.  In  October,  1675, 
after  the  burning  of  Springfield,  (see  p.  425,)  the  Indi 
ans  under  Philip,  flushed  with  their  repeated  successes, 
made  an  attack  on  Hatfield  ;  which  was  then  defended 
by  two  companies,  aided  by  a  third,  which  came  to 
their  relief  during  the  conflict.  The  Indians  were  about 
700  strong,  and  made  a  furious  assault  upon  the  town 
in  various  directions,  pillaging  arid  burning  several  of 
the  houses.  But  they  were  defeated,  and  compelled  to 
seek  safety  in  a  precipitate  flight. 

On  the  30th  of  May  of  the  following  year,  another 
attack  was  made  upon  Hatfield  by  600  Indians.  Twelve 
unfortified  buildings  were  immediately  burnt ;  but  the 
others,  which  were  pallisaded,  were  defended  by  a  few 
inhabitants.  Part  of  the  Indians  then  repaired  to  the 
fields,  and  attacked  the  men  at  their  labor ;  but  25 
young  men  crossed  the  river  from  Hadley,  and  rushing 
upon  the  Indians,  killed  several,  and  finally,  with  the 
aid  of  the  inhabitants,  dispersed  them. 

MUDDY  BROOK,  9  miles  from  Hatfield,  is  a  small  vil 
lage,  deriving  its  name  from  a  stream  which  passes 
through  the  place,  bordered  by  a  narrow  morass.  The 
place  in  1675,  and  for  some  time  subsequent,  was  call 
ed  Bloody  Brook,  in  consequence  of  a  battle  which  was 
fought  with  the  Indians  on  the  18th  of  September  of 
that  year.  Capt.  Lothrop,  who  had  been  despatched 


9  MIDDY    BROOK, 

with  80  men  and  several  teams,  to  secure  a  quantity  of 
wheat  in  Deerrield,  two  or  three  miles  further  north, 
was  surprised  on  his  return  through  this  place,  by  a 
party  of  700  Indians,  who  had  secretly  watched  his 
movements)  and  who  lay  in  ambush  awaiting  his  ar 
rival.  He  had  no  sooner  crossed  the  small  stream 
above  mentioned,  than  they  rushed  upon  him,  pouring 
in  such  a  deadly  fire  as  to  produce  complete  discomfit 
ure.  Lothrop  and  his  men  fled  ;  but  being  pursued 
and  overtaken  at  all  points,  they  resolved  to  sell  their 
lives  in  a  vigorous  struggle.  They  accordingly  posted 
themselves  behind  the  neighboring  trees  ;  when  the 
conflict  became  a  trial  of  skill  in  sharp  shooting.  At 
length  the  struggle  terminated  in  the  annihilation  of 
nearly  the  whole  of  the  English.  Lothrop  was  killed  in 
the  early  part  of  the  action  ;  and  his  loss,  including 
teamsters,  amounted  to  ninety.  The  troops  at  Deer- 
field,  under  Captain  Mosely,  hearing  the  musketry, 
hastened  to  the  scene  of  combat,  and  arrived  soon  af 
ter  its  close.  They  found  the  Indians  stripping  the 
slain.  Mosely  improving  the  favorable  opportunity, 
rushed  upon  them,  cutting  them  down  in  all  directions, 
and  driving  the  remainder  into  the  adjacent  swamps. 
The  next  morning,  it  was  found  that  a  few  Indians  had 
returned  to  the  field  of  battle  for  tlie  purpose  of  plun 
der  ;  but  they  were  soon  dispersed. 

Though  the  loss  of  the  enemy  on  the  previous  day 
was  estimated  at  about  100,  the  engagement  was,  nev 
ertheless,  more  disastrous  in  its  consequences  to  the 
English.  The  destruction  of  90  valuable  men,  the 
flower  of  a  thinly  scattered  population,  was  calculated 
to  produce  ranch  despondency,  and  occasion  the  most 


DEERFIELD.  429 

serious  apprehensions  for  the  safety  of  the  remaining 
colonists. 

The  place  where  this  battle  was  fought,  is  near  the 
centre  of  the  village,  about  30  rods  south  of  the  church. 
The  bridge  over  the  stream  is  located  at  the  place 
where  Lothrop  crossed.  Some  remains  of  a  coarse 
monument  once  erected  here  are  still  visible. 

DEERFIELD,  3  miles  from  Muddy  Brook,  and  17 
miles  north  of  Northampton,  is  a  handsome  village  on 
the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river.  It  is  in  the 
midst  of  a  very  fertile  and  beautiful  country,  presenting 
a  succession  of  rich  and  highly  cultivated  farms.  The 
town  was  among  the  early  settlements  on  the  river ; 
and,  more  than  any  other  place,  was  the  theatre  of  In 
dian  warfare.  In  September,  1675,  an  attack  was  made 
on  the  place,  one  man  killed  and  several  houses  redu 
ced  to  ashes.  For  about  20  years  subsequent  to  this, 
owing  to  repeated  incursions  of  the  savages,  the  inhab 
itants  were  often  compelled  to  abandon  their  dwellings 
and  seek  a  temporary  asylum  in  the  neighboring  towns. 
During  the  French  wars  under  William  and  Anne,  how 
ever,  they  maintained  their  ground  until  1704  ;  made 
many  improvements  and  enclosed  the  centre  of  the  vil 
lage  by  an  extensive  but  imperfect  pallisaded  work. 
This  fortification  was  attacked  by  about  350  French 
and  Indians  in  the  month  of  February  of  that  year. 
They  had  secretly  taken  a  position  two  miles  north  of 
the  village  on  the  evening  of  the  9th ;  from  whence 
they  cautiously  proceeded  to  the  fort  the  next  morning 
before  day.  There  being  no  sentinels  posted,  the  for 
tification  was  easily  entered,  and  the  work  of  destruc 
tion  commenced  ere  the  inhabitants  had  aroused  from 
their  slumbers.  A  feeble  resistance,  only,  could  b« 


430  GREENFIELD. 

made.  All  the  houses,  except  on  3,  within  the  palli- 
sades,  were  burnt;  between  40  and  50  of  the  inhabi 
tants  were  killed,  and  112,  including  women  and  chil 
dren  made  prisoners.  In  the  drear  of  winter,  with  a 
scanty  supply  of  provisions,  and  with  little  clothing, 
the  unfortunate  captives  were  compelled  to  take  up 
their  line  of  march  for  Canada.  Mr.  Williams,  the  cler 
gyman  of  the  place,  and  his  family,  were  of  the  number. 
His  wife*  was  murdered  in  two  or  three  days  after 
commencing  the  exclusion  ;  and  sixteen  others  either 
died  or  were  massacred  before  reaching  the  Province. 
Most  of  those  who  survived,  after  remaining  in  captivi 
ty  for  some  time,  were  redeemed.  A  daughter  of  Mr. 
Williams,  however,  who  had  married  an  Indian  chief, 
refused  to  return.  She  assumed  the  habiliment  of  a 
savage,  and  died  in  Canada  some  years  afterwards. 
Several  of  her  descendants  aro  still  living  there. 

The  house  which  survived  the  conflagration  at  Deer- 
field  is  still  standing,  and  is  owned  by  Col.  Elihu  Hoyt. 
It  is  in  a  tolerable  state  of  preservation,  and  exhibits  to 
this  day  the  perforation  made  in  the  door  by  toma 
hawks,  as  well  as  the  marks  of  balls  in  the  interior. 
One  of  these  marks  is  shown,  as  having  been  made  by 
a  ball  which  killed  a  female  in  the  house  ;  and  in  one 
of  the  timbers  a  bullet  is  seen,  which  has  never  been 
extracted. 

GREENFIELD,  4  miles  from  Deer-field,  is  a  large  and 
pleasant  village,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river ;  from 
which  it  is  distant  2  miles.  It  contains  a  court  house, 

*  She  was  afterwards,  with  her  husband,  interred  in 
the  church-yard  at  Deerfield  j  and  marble  slabs  placed 
over  their  graves. 


TURNER'S  FALLS.  431 

jail,  bank  and  3  churches.  It  is  a  central  position  for 
the  trade  of  the  surrounding  country  ;  und  is  a  place  of 
wealth  and  enterprise.  A  young  Ladies'  Seminary  at 
this  place  is  beautifully  located  and  under  excellent 
regulations. 

TURNER'S  FALLS,  on  the  Connecticut  river,  are  3 
miles  from  Greenfield,  in  a  north-easterly  direction. 
The  road  taken  in  visiting  them  is  east  of  the  ordinary 
stage  route ;  and  it  is  customary,  therefore,  after  an  ex 
cursion  to  the'falls,  to  return  to  Greenfield.  The  route 
is  principally  over  the  ground  taken  by  Capt.  Turner, 
in  his  attack  on  the  Indians  in  1676.  The  fall  is  be 
tween  forty  and  fifty  feet ;  but  by  the  erection  of  a  dam 
for  the  accommodation  of  a  canal,  the  cataract  has 
lost  much  of  its  original  wildness. 

The  Indians,  amounting  to  several  hundreds,  having 
taken  a  position  on  elevated  ground,  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  river  at  the  head  of  the  fall,  it  was  deemed  im 
portant  to  dislodge  them.  This  service  was  undertak 
en  by  Capt.  Turner,  at  the  head  of  about  160  mounted 
troops.  He  left  Hatfield  on  the  17th  of  May,  1676, 
and  reached  within  half  a  mile  of  the  Indian  encamp 
ment  before  day  the  next  morning,  without  discovery. 
Here  his  men  left  their  horses,  and  by  a  rapid  march, 
reached  the  camp  before  the  Indians  awoke  from  their 
slumbers.  A  deadly  and  destructive  fire  was  immedi 
ately  commenced.  Believing  it  to  proceed  from  their 
ancient  and  powerful  enemy  the  Mohawks,  many  of 
the  Indians  fled  to  the  river,  and  leaped  into  their  ca 
noes  ;  but  in  attempting  to  cross,  they  were  mostly 
shot  or  precipitated  over  the  cataract.  Others  fled  to 
the  rocks  of  the  river  bank,  where  they  were  cut  down, 
without  resistance ;  and  few  escaped  the  victorious 


432  BRATTLEBORO' — WESTMINSTER. 

arm  of  the  assailants.  One  hundred  were  left  dead  on 
the  field ;  one  hundred  and  forty  were  seen  to  descend 
the  cataract ;  and  their  whole  loss  was  afterwards  as 
certained  to  have  been  300.  Turner  lost  but  one  man. 

In  his  retreat,  he  was  less  fortunate.  He  was  at 
tacked  by  other  parties  of  Indians  on  the  route — his 
men  divided — himself  killed  ;  and  the  loss  of  his  party, 
before  they  reached  Hatfield,  amounted  to  between  30 
and  40.  Capt.  T.  is  supposed  to  have  fallen  in  what 
is  called  Greenfield  Meadow,  at  the  mouth  of  a  small 
stream  on  which  a  mill  now  stands  ;  as  his  body  was 
afterwards  found  at  that  place  by  a  scouting  party  of 
the  English. 

BERNARDS-TOWN,  5  miles  north  of  Greenfield. 

VERNON,  6  miles :  the  first  town  reached  in  entering 
the  state  of  Vermont.  Fort  Dummer,  built  to  protect 
the  inhabitants  against  the  Indians,  was  located  at  this 
place. 

GUILFORD,  5  miles.  Here  are  two  slate  quarries  and 
several  mills  and  manufactories. 

BRATTLEBOROUGH,  6  miles,  a  flourishing  village,  is 
located  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river ; 
over  which  there  is  a  permanent  bridge.  White  stone 
creek  also  passes  through  the  place,  affording  a  num 
ber  of  good  mill  sites.  The  village  contains  a  bank, 
the  most  extensive  printing  establishment  in  the  state, 
and  several  manufactories.  Stages  pass  daily  between 
this  place  and  Boston,  Hartford,  Albany  and  Hanover. 

DUMMERSTON,  5  miles. 

PUTNEY,  5  miles. 

WESTMINSTER,  5  miles.  The  first  newspaper  printed  in 
Vermont  was  issued  from  a  press  at  this  place ;  though 


CHARLESTOWN.  483 

it  was  discontinued  several  years  since  tor  want  of  pat* 
ronage.  The  village  is  located  on  a  beautiful  plain  on 
the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut ;  but  it  has  not  im 
proved  much  within  the  last  twenty  years. 

WALPOLE,  N.  H.  to  which  a  bridge  leads,  is  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  is  noticed  at  page  325. 

BELLOWS  FALLS,  on  the  Vermont  side,  4  miles  from 
Walpole.  (Seep.  324.)  Proceeding  up  the  river  over 
a  beautiful  plain, 

CHARLESTOWN,  N.  H.  is  reached  in  travelling  8  miles 
from  Bellows  Falls.  It  is  handsomely  located  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river,  and  is  a  neat  village,  containing  a 
court  house,  jail  and  bank. 

A  fort  was  built  for  the  defence  of  this  place  in  1743, 
on  rising  ground  south  of  the  church,  over  which  the 
present  street  passes.  In  March,  1747,  while  the  fort 
was  occupied  by  Capt.  Stevens  and  thirty  men,  a  furi 
ous  assault  was  made  upon  it  by  a  large  body  of  French 
and  Indians,  under  the  command  of  M.  Debeline.  The 
fort  being  composed  of  materials  which  were  combusti 
ble,  the  enemy  attempted  its  destruction,  by  setting  a 
log  house  and  the  fences  to  the  windward  on  fire.  To 
guard  against  a  conflagration,  the  besieged  through 
great  exertions,  succeeded  in  making  several  subterra 
nean  passages  under  the  parapet,  with  an  opening  at 
the  top  of  each.  From  these  passages,  which  were 
deep  enough  to  protect  the  men  from  the  enemy's  shot, 
water,  taken  from  a  well  within  the  fort,  was  thrown 
upon  the  parapet,  and  the  plan  of  the  enemy  frustrated. 
A  sort  of  mantelet,  loaded  with  dry  faggots,  set  on  fire, 
was  then  forced  towards  the  fort,  accompanied  with 
flaming  arrows  ;  but  all  to  no  purpose.  Stevens  main 
tained  his  position,  continued  a  fire  upon  the  enemy 


434  HANOVER. 

whenever  he  presented  himself,  and  refused  ail  proposi 
tions  of  a  surrender.  After  an  assault  of  three  days, 
and  suffering  severely  in  the  loss  of  his  men,  Debeline 
withdrew  f$om  the  siege.  None  of  Stevens'  men  were 
killed,  and  but  two  wounded. 

For  this  brave  defence,  Sir  Charles  Knowles,  com 
mandant  of  a  naval  force  then  in  Boston  harbor,  sent 
Capt.  Stevens  an  elegant  sword.  The  town  was  sub 
sequently  named  in  honor  of  Sir  Charles. 

From  Charlestown,  a  stage  may  be  taken  daily  for 
Saratoga  Springs,  passing  through  Chester,  Manches 
ter,  &c. ;  or  for  Boston,  passing  through  Walpole, 
Keene,  &c.  ( See  p.  323  to  32S.) 

SPRINGFIELD,  Vt.  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  5 
miles  from  Charlestown. 

WEATHERSFIELD,  6  miles  ;  a  fine  agricultural  town 
ship.  Jarvis'  farm,  at  what  is  termed  Weathersfield 
*  Bow  (a  turn  in  the  river)  is  considered  one  of  the  best 
in  Vermont. 

WINDSOR,  7  miles.     (Seep.  332.) 

HARTLAND,  7  miles. 

HARTFORD,  7  miles.  There  are  two  handsome  vil 
lages  in  this  town  ;  one  near  the  junction  of  the  White 
river,  and  the  other  near  the  junction  of  the  Queechy 
river  with  the  Connecticut,  In  both  there  are  several 
mills  and  manufactories.  From  Hartford,  the  river  is 
crossed  to 

HANOVER,  (noticed  at  p.  333,)  from  which  a  stage 
may  be  taken  three  times  a  week  for  Burlington,  Vt.  or 
Boston. 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWE 

LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


25W58  PS  SEP 


.P 12  199 

i  /\R  I)  M  i 


RECD  LP 


NUV  ^6  1958 


SEP  8   1962 


U.C.  BERKELEY  LIBRARIES 


7333 


F3 


THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


